285s rubbing BMC or alignment fix?

YellowSnow said:
I got that, but why would I risk running caster to the limit just to clear the body mount, when i can just chop it?
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Even if you cut the body mount you should still run your caster at between 3.5 and 4.0 degrees. That will return your lifted geometry to close to stock and provide the most stable ride at speed. The poor performance issues you referred to will go away with the caster in that range.

Edit: And also that's really the express purpose of your aftermarket UCA'a. They have additional caster built in specifically for the type of situation your talking about. The first step is get the caster in that range, then if you still have rubbing chop the body mount.
 
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YellowSnow said:
I got that, but why would I risk running caster to the limit just to clear the body mount, when i can just chop it?
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There is absolutely no risk. This is the sweet spot, this is where your caster belongs. This is where everyone runs their caster when running the correct arms with a correct alignment.
 
YellowSnow said:
So how much more caster can I get out of the JBAs?
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I believe the JBA arms are engineered with 2 or 2.5 degrees in them already. Basically that means if your cam bolts are set to stock setting and you add the JBA arms, you will increase caster by 2 or 2.5 degrees. Adjusting your cam bolts at time of alignment will allow over 5 degrees of caster. Any alignment shop that knows how to align lifted IFS trucks will get you in spec. Usually the spec is not identical side to side, you will likely have more caster on one side than the other but not my much, maybe 1/2 degree. I can't remember which side a little extra caster is added to but I believe it's the passenger side. This is said to help with the pulling issue on crowned roads.
 
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Just chopped my rig with a Milwaukee 4 1/2" angle grinder.

Took 15" per side hungover as sh*&. I didnt take off quite as much as most do. I'm running a King coilover setup with 275 BFG KO2 and 1.25" spacers. The spacers are what gave me the rub. I've the SPC UCA. Fairly happy with them....Have some 285s waiting to go on, but this isnt my daily and took me a while to find some time to do the chop. Might have been easier with a sawzall and then sand the steel with the grinder.

Ive Sliders on and was a little tight at times. Had to make a few cuts and took off in 3-4 pieces. I'll post up a pic once I weld and paint it up. Was a piece of cake though.
 
Wheel spacers are the biggest cause of bm rub. I ran 17x9 and 275's no problem but the spacers put me into the BM.
 
YellowSnow said:
You don’t need spacers when running 285s, they fill out the fenders perfectly.....besides, spacers are garbage.
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Im sure you are right.....I'll find out soon as Im about to order up some 285s, though I do like the look of the spacers........still trying to figure out which tires. Prob will stick with the BFG KO2, but I do like the Nitto Ridge Grapplers.....
 
stephan07 said:
Im sure you are right.....I'll find out soon as Im about to order up some 285s, though I do like the look of the spacers........still trying to figure out which tires. Prob will stick with the BFG KO2, but I do like the Nitto Ridge Grapplers.....
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Get the Falken Wildpeaks...the Grapplers are probably the worst AT in wet and snow you can buy, and only the newer variation of the KO2 is snow rated.
 
Really??? The Ridge Grappler? I know the Tera Grappler is garbage.

I’ve had both the Falken Wildpeak AT3W and now the KO2. Although I have zero complaints about the KO2 currently, I’m just not impressed. I miss my Falkens everyday. I’d go that route. I do like having the C load though.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Decipher said:
Really??? The Ridge Grappler? I know the Tera Grappler is garbage.
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I run the 285/70-17 Ridge Grapplers (2018/Method Roost) on my V8 T4R.
I have had no issues in the rain, and it's been raining most of the spring, summer, and fall. Though they have under 4K miles on the set. :shrug:
 
how much room do we need minimumly need between the tire edge and the BM with some room for just a little normal flexing, 1 finger, 2? more? I have 1 on 1 side and 1.5ish on the other. Mostly road driven, some dirt trails and NO Crawling for me.
 
hwnrunner said:
how much room do we need minimumly need between the tire edge and the BM with some room for just a little normal flexing, 1 finger, 2? more? I have 1 on 1 side and 1.5ish on the other. Mostly road driven, some dirt trails and NO Crawling for me.
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Just cut it back far enough the body mount is just behind the actual fender well. Meaning if you held a ruler on the fender well pointing straight down the mount would be tucked behind it. I've read some cut a slit in the pinch weld and hammer it flat as well. At that point it's no longer you're limiting factor. You aren't reducing any structural integrity, and saving yourself from doing it twice. That's how I did mine and no rubbing with 285s and a +1 offset, it's not even close to the tire at full lock.
 
I had to trim the front fascia slightly with 275 K02s and 1" Bora spacers using a dremel. Recently switched to 285 K02s. Only rubbing now is at full lock when braking on the front mudflaps, but barely noticeable. Considering just removing the front mud flaps since I have stock control arms until I can get a realignment done.
 
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