KidVermicious
New member
I'm no help with the vacuum lines, but you did test timing, right? If I had spark and fuel that'd be the next place I'd go. This trouble doesn't have to be related to the mudding, you know.
3.0 fails to start after mud bath
- Thread starter Footofgod
- Start date
This problem may or may not be related to mud, but it's going to take the blame for it 
We pulled and tested the distributor, set the crank to 0* TDC and verified the #1 piston is at tdc. Then we reinstalled the distributor as per the FSM and reconnected all the spark plug wires in their appropriate spot. Still no start. I couldn't actually check the timing because we couldn't get the motor to start, but even if the dist was off by a few degrees the motor should still start.
I'm digging through the FSM now and one of the things that it suggests is the idle speed control valve. It has a priority of 2 for a likeliness of it not starting. But I cannot find anything else in the FSM that even covers the IACV. Any help here?
We pulled and tested the distributor, set the crank to 0* TDC and verified the #1 piston is at tdc. Then we reinstalled the distributor as per the FSM and reconnected all the spark plug wires in their appropriate spot. Still no start. I couldn't actually check the timing because we couldn't get the motor to start, but even if the dist was off by a few degrees the motor should still start.
I'm digging through the FSM now and one of the things that it suggests is the idle speed control valve. It has a priority of 2 for a likeliness of it not starting. But I cannot find anything else in the FSM that even covers the IACV. Any help here?
BucknutBob
New member
Are you getting fuel and signal to the cold-start injector? It's separate from the others, and can mess up all by itself. Just a thought.
helo-mech
Member
Not questioning just trying to understand. I see you have fuel at the rails but you also said the plugs were not wet after an attempt to start. Did this get resolved? Are the plugs now wet?
Also the stupid Fuel VSV sends a signal to the ECM during ignition. See if plugging those lines does anything.
Also the stupid Fuel VSV sends a signal to the ECM during ignition. See if plugging those lines does anything.
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We put a noid light on the plus for the cold start injector and the light was solid for about 2-3 seconds then it turned off. I'm not sure if that is what it's supposed to do because the csi doesn't work like the other injectors. I do want to check more into the csi though. We need to test the cold start injector timer and the injector itself along with the associated wiring.
The first night we were trying to figure this out I didn't think we had fuel coming into the cylinders. After looking more in depth, I do believe we're getting fuel. We cracked a fuel line at the rail and tried to start it. We definitely have fuel pressure! A noid light test shows that the injectors are getting the proper signal for pulsation. After a few attempts of trying to start, the spark plugs smelled like gas so I'm assuming that we're getting fuel.
So as far as I know, we're getting fuel and spark. We're getting air. We pulled the #1 spark plug and put the crank at 5* BTDC and verified that the #1 piston is at TDC. We pulled the distributor and verified the ignition timing.
I am still interested in testing the idle speed control valve but cannot find any test for it. I did find stuff about the idle air control valve, is that the same thing?
helo-mech
Member
That VSV should be on the inner fender/wheel area. There are 3 right there together and I think it is the middle one. I haven't gone outside to look as it has been freaking raining for the last 6 days but I can if you need me to. Just let me know. MFI System--Fuel Pressure Control System EG2-249
I too looked for a test on the idle speed control valve but was unable to find it in the FSM. From what I could gather online, there really isn't a "test." It either works or not. There was a recommendation of taking it off the throttle body and cleaning the ports. I should be bolted on the bottom of the throttle body right at the intake with some vacuum lines attached.
So you're suggesting to plug the vacuum lines going to the VSV to rule out the fuel pressure vsv?
I too found the same thing on the idle air valve. I think when we attack this motor again we'll clean it up and make sure everything looks good on the valve.
I'm pretty much thinking at this point that we need to test every little sensor in the engine bay and make sure they're within spec and test the wiring as per the FSM to make sure the sensor is getting and sending the right signals.
I too found the same thing on the idle air valve. I think when we attack this motor again we'll clean it up and make sure everything looks good on the valve.
I'm pretty much thinking at this point that we need to test every little sensor in the engine bay and make sure they're within spec and test the wiring as per the FSM to make sure the sensor is getting and sending the right signals.
helo-mech
Member
If I understand that fuel VSV thing right the only purpose is to drop fuel pressure to the rail during low use conditions and to prevent "Hot Starts" Maybe the VSV is not allowing the proper pressure to the rail for starting?
If you plugged it at the VSV then it would not be able to adjust the pressure and the pressure at the rail would be at its max allowed. At least that is what is playing out in me head.
I will test out the vsv and see what happens.
4Running Daily
New member
Make sure the oil is clean, no water or anything, just in case.
What exactly happens when you turn the key?
What exactly happens when you turn the key?
I pulled the dip stick and the oil that was on it was clean and looked good. I figured if there was anything major in the oil then it would be on the dip stick.
When we turn the key and try to start it, the motor just turns. We have all the things that should make a cylinder go boom, but we have no boom.
We did a compression test on the #1 cylinder and it was at 120psi and it held that pressure. So the motor is a little worn and maybe a little tired but at 120 psi, it should still run fine. Up until now, the motor ran great! It idled perfect, had plenty of pep when you pushed on the gas pedal, and it even out runs my 4runner with a beefed up 22re. I have no doubt in my mind that the motor is healthy and in good working order.
After the mud run we hosed off everything in our 4runners. We removed all the interior and hosed out the inside, under carriage and the engine bay. Maybe the water got into a sensor somewhere and shorted something out? But if a sensor was bad, we should get a check engine light or some stored code I would think.
4Running Daily
New member
I think it's computer related. The immobilizer or something. It sounds like you have everything perfect and in running condition. Fuel rail has pressure, it's just the ecu or something is cutting it so there is no fuel being delivered.
Try unplugging the negative battery terminal for a couple minutes.
Try unplugging the negative battery terminal for a couple minutes.
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I'm not 100% sure what it is so I cannot disagree with you. But the noid light test says that the ecu is firing the injectors.
4Running Daily
New member
Dang. That's confusing.
Still I suggest you just unplug the battery for a little while. worth a shot?
combatmedic
Banned
Have you tried spraying some cold start in the intake ?
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The battery was unplugged a few times during the testing and swapping parts. We also unplugged the ecu for about 10 minutes to reset it.
We did spray some starting fluid directly into the throttle body and got nothing, not even a little hiccup of the motor trying to start.
Keep em' coming guys. We can use all the help we can get.
4runnerBrett
New member
If you know anyone with another ecu i would plug it in just to double check ecu.
ToyoTech
New member
ok might a long shot but you guys hosed of the interior, even tho you have the 3 things need to fire. its possible that the ecu has gotten wet and is messed up? the only other thing i can think of would be timing. pull at least the upper covers off and see it is all still lined up with the crank
