3" Body Lift, what y'all think?

[Joshua.O.Brown7]

I've finally decided to go with a 3" body lift. I'll describe the breakdown down below. However let me know what y'all think and if I missed anything or any suggestions, even if it's to go with a different brand. I'm always up to suggestions.

Kit: D

4Crawler Ultimate Lift Blocks + standard hardware

• Two 2" OD Loft Blocks
• Eight 2.5" OD Lift Blocks

Price: $111.00​

CLR: Red
Price:

• $10.00 Primed Black
• $20.00 Red (or and other color)

HD/HDNuts
Price: $25.00

• $15.00 Heavy Duty Hardware Bolts
• $10.00 Heavy Duty Hardware Nutz

FB: 3"
Front Bumper Brackets
Price: $15.00​

RAD 3" Deluxe
Radiator Drop Brackets + Hardware
Price: $20.00​

SE 3"
Steering Extension for Rack and Pinion
Price: $40.00​

Diff. Drop Deluxe kit
Price: $29.00​

P1: Red;
Polyurethane Bushings
8 of the 2 piece, and 2 of 1 piece bushings
Price: $160.00 in black, will need to get a price on red, probably about $40 additional.
​

CDOC
Color Install Instructions
Price: $4.00​

What will the total cost be?

In black or prepped, $414.00 + postage
with red painted blocks $424.00 + postage
and assuming red bushings are $40 additional, $464.00 + postage
​

I will be ordering in phased

Phase 1

• Kit: D 3" CLR: Red
• HD/HDNuts Hardware

Price: $156.00 + postage

Phase 2

• FB 3"
• RAD Drop 3"
• SE 3"
• Diff. Drop
• CDOC

Price: $108.00 + postage

Phase 3

• Polyurethane Bushings: Red

Price: $200.00 + Postage​

 

[Konkordmusk]

Is this for looks only? 3" is a lot. For the 500 you're spending on a body lift you could almost completely purchase a proper lift kit and gain functionality instead of losing functionality with the body lift.

 

[SnowLizard]

I got a 2inch lift @ ~600... and I could have gone 3 inch for the same price...

don't do body lift, you'll hate it.


not the advice I can give you... don't go more than 2 inches, even that is pushing the limits.

 

[PWD4R]

Are you wanting 35s or 37s without cutting? I would rather cut than stress darn near every drive component in your vehicle. What's the main goal?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Joshua.O.Brown7]

Are you wanting 35s or 37s without cutting? I would rather cut than stress darn near every drive component in your vehicle. What's the main goal?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'll be doing a long travel suspension 3" lift the 3in body will help with clearance of 35s I'm putting it on.

Here's how the look will be, only difference is I'll have a slightly wider track width.

 

[JayRolla]

If your on stock suspension dont go with body lift. 2" is all you need on top of a 3" suspension lift and that's pushing it. No need to raise center of gravity that much.

 

[PWD4R]

I hope it works out well for you


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Joshua.O.Brown7]

Are you wanting 35s or 37s without cutting? I would rather cut than stress darn near every drive component in your vehicle. What's the main goal?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If I need to I'll raise my drive train as well, 4crawler makes a kit for that as well.

 

[PWD4R]

Idk about these vehicles in particular but I know with a lot of vehicles once you hit the 3" BL your drive shaft is tweaked and adds a lot of stress. Again, no experience on a 4Runner though so let someone else tell you.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Joshua.O.Brown7]

I got a 2inch lift @ ~600... and I could have gone 3 inch for the same price...

don't do body lift, you'll hate it.


not the advice I can give you... don't go more than 2 inches, even that is pushing the limits.

What's the reason you don't like it?

 

[Joshua.O.Brown7]

Is this for looks only? 3" is a lot. For the 500 you're spending on a body lift you could almost completely purchase a proper lift kit and gain functionality instead of losing functionality with the body lift.

Total lift wise I'll have a L/T system using Camburg and 2.5" with R/R the body lift will give both travel clearance and looks. I'll be pushing my track width put as well 2" wheel spacers

 

[Joshua.O.Brown7]

Idk about these vehicles in particular but I know with a lot of vehicles once you hit the 3" BL your drive shaft is tweaked and adds a lot of stress. Again, no experience on a 4Runner though so let someone else tell you.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Shouldn't dropping the diff help?

 

[PWD4R]

Logic tells me no? Because you're already raising the body which adds separation from the diff and if you drop the diff then it creates more separation. And that's just front diff. The rear is still there and when you lift the body you lift your drive train whereas the diffs stay in place. Again, I'd i am wrong I will admit fault but that's my logic.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[AZBub]

Sounds like your building a bro truck.

EDIT: 3" body lift and 2" wheel spacers.

FWIW Just putting on some Camburg uppers and a coilover doesn't make it long travel.

 

[Konkordmusk]

Logic tells me no? Because you're already raising the body which adds separation from the diff and if you drop the diff then it creates more separation. And that's just front diff. The rear is still there and when you lift the body you lift your drive train whereas the diffs stay in place. Again, I'd i am wrong I will admit fault but that's my logic.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nothing drive train related is bolted to the body. It is all bolted to the frame, where in between the frame and the body is where the lift pucks get placed.

To the op: I've fit 35"s with a 1" body lift. Pretty easy to cut and hammer whatever else was in the way. One of your other threads has you mentioning you want to go rock crawling with your setup. Seriously setting yourself up for failure in that case with a 3" bro-lift.

 

[PWD4R]

Nothing drive train related is bolted to the body. It is all bolted to the frame, where in between the frame and the body is where the lift pucks get placed.



To the op: I've fit 35"s with a 1" body lift. Pretty easy to cut and hammer whatever else was in the way. One of your other threads has you mentioning you want to go rock crawling with your setup. Seriously setting yourself up for failure in that case with a 3" bro-lift.

Ok thanks. I didn't mean it's a direct bolt but maybe I am unclear in what I am saying or thinking. Appreciate it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[rideexileex]

Buy some glass fenders and tub the firewalls properly, then call it a day. Long travel means you should be low...

35's - you'll need gears to go with that too

 

[Joshua.O.Brown7]

Sounds like your building a bro truck.

EDIT: 3" body lift and 2" wheel spacers.

FWIW Just putting on some Camburg uppers and a coilover doesn't make it long travel.

A what truck? Also I know I'll need more than just that I'll be running a coilovers with a reservoir a piggyback extended CV axel bump stop still researching for the rear suspension but 2.5 with reservoir coils L/t control arms may be nixing the one forgot the name bar. Still researching it completely

 

[Joshua.O.Brown7]

Ok thanks. I didn't mean it's a direct bolt but maybe I am unclear in what I am saying or thinking. Appreciate it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I lean more to the desert and dune racing hence the l/t I'm aiming for but I wanted to ensure to be able to mild rock crawling as well

 

[Joshua.O.Brown7]

Buy some glass fenders and tub the firewalls properly, then call it a day. Long travel means you should be low...

35's - you'll need gears to go with that too

Can you go into depth for the 35s gears?