305/70 People
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Jeremy556
New member
Depends on a lot of factors - actual measurements of the tire you are running, wheel size and offset, alignment specs.
In addition to what you mentioned, I also had folded the pinch weld, hammered out some high spots in the wheel well, and had an aftermarket front bumper. My 305/70/17 MTRs and my 35x12.5 MTRs both still would rub the frame rail on the driver's side and the TC UCA on the passenger side, turned full lock left at full stuff. I think I also had to modify the washer bottle for the 305s and had to remove it completely for 35s (replaced with a small aftermarket one inside the engine bay).
All of that is on 17x8, 0 offset, 4.5" backspacing with 4.7 degrees of caster
Hopefully you have re-geared already, if not you'll want to do that, too.
In addition to what you mentioned, I also had folded the pinch weld, hammered out some high spots in the wheel well, and had an aftermarket front bumper. My 305/70/17 MTRs and my 35x12.5 MTRs both still would rub the frame rail on the driver's side and the TC UCA on the passenger side, turned full lock left at full stuff. I think I also had to modify the washer bottle for the 305s and had to remove it completely for 35s (replaced with a small aftermarket one inside the engine bay).
All of that is on 17x8, 0 offset, 4.5" backspacing with 4.7 degrees of caster
Hopefully you have re-geared already, if not you'll want to do that, too.
Thanks for the info - kind of what im looking for. Im running 295 on 9x -38mm now with no rub unless flexed pretty good... The pinch welds really is the only thing im not "wanting" to do and trying to get out of... Not much crazy offroading - maybe it wont need it.
Got any pics of what your wheel well looks like? With salt and gravel i see id like the keep the plastic liner (or as much as I can)
90% of people id guess are on the typical 305/70R17... yes your correct but im more looking at what the wheel well will look like "after surgery needed" to accommodate. Maybe learn from what others have done and improve my own
Jeremy556
New member
There is no plastic in my front wheel wells, other than the bit on the edge of the fender flare. Don't have any existing pics, but, if you know what mud looks like - that's all you can see in my wheel wells right now.
dride
New member
I’m on 305/70r17 at3’s. Scs f5 4.5” bs -12 os. Heavy BMC, pinch weld, lots of fender liner mod, quite a bit of the bumper(not full “viper”), 4.7 castor. If say that’s minimum. I Recently put on 1.25” spacers and cut the door side of my fender and flare. That allowed me to modify my liners in a way to semi salvage them for now. I really want to keep my fender liners. I have done some mild FS off-roading and noticed a bearable rub on my inner fender wells. No pics, sorry.
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ill dm you - maybe we can text each other and get a pic.
Curious about "cut the door side of my fender and flare" - is that cause when fully compressed your hitting...?
I know you asked about 305's but here's everyuthing I did for 315's
I follow you and already went through your posts searching back when you had 315s. Also looked at your stories on the MODS tab.
bigdaddy2021
New member
And so here’s my question.
I just did some fairly mild to wild offroading in Moab, that most trail guides called a 5-6/10. This was with fresh, stock-sized 32” bfg’s. I had zero issues other than falling off a descent that i probably shouldn't have been on. LoL
At what point does power loss and parts breakage become a factor?
I enjoy knowing that my 2.5” lift and 32’s took me through a ton of rough terrain and that the 4wd system was working within specs allowing me to use use the power/throttle pretty freely (while consciously avoiding hopping/spinning)
What has been y’allz experience with breakage/power loss thresholds with tough trail use? Do you see breakage more often on 33’s, 34’s, 35’s? What usually pop’s? CV’s? How abour rear solid axle shafts? Maybe ring and pinions?
I just did some fairly mild to wild offroading in Moab, that most trail guides called a 5-6/10. This was with fresh, stock-sized 32” bfg’s. I had zero issues other than falling off a descent that i probably shouldn't have been on. LoL
At what point does power loss and parts breakage become a factor?
I enjoy knowing that my 2.5” lift and 32’s took me through a ton of rough terrain and that the 4wd system was working within specs allowing me to use use the power/throttle pretty freely (while consciously avoiding hopping/spinning)
What has been y’allz experience with breakage/power loss thresholds with tough trail use? Do you see breakage more often on 33’s, 34’s, 35’s? What usually pop’s? CV’s? How abour rear solid axle shafts? Maybe ring and pinions?
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Xtremluck
New member
Going bigger than stock size is always going to increase stress on components downstream. Most folks don’t think of this and some get away with it because they aren’t hammering their trucks hard. However, if you are really planning on driving your setup off-road beyond groomed FS dirt roads it’s something to consider.
The weakest point is definitely the steering system (Tie rods & steering rack) after that it’s the CVs. Most find 33s as the best blend of increased capability with a workable trade off in reliability.
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2021nightshade4x4
New member
Mine’s 100% mall princess. I’m limiting myself to 275/55R20 until I can upgrade other parts.
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mrblah
Senior Member
ah, the THICC tire gang!!!!!
:thumb3:
Wish i can join ya'll, but i gotta stick to the skinny 34's (285/75/17) since my steering rack is on its last legs (and that is just offroading on 33's).
If you gonna move up to thiCC 34/35's, just be mindful when you go offroad of your CV or tie rod. One wrong angle or bounce, and "c'est la vie".
If you never plan on going offroad, i'd just jump to 315's, and call it a day, same amount of work with a sawzall, BFH, upgraded aftermarket suspension components, drivetrain upgrades (optional), and fuel costs... lol.
dood we need a 34/35 tire picture thread again.......need inspiration.
:thumb3:
Wish i can join ya'll, but i gotta stick to the skinny 34's (285/75/17) since my steering rack is on its last legs (and that is just offroading on 33's).
If you gonna move up to thiCC 34/35's, just be mindful when you go offroad of your CV or tie rod. One wrong angle or bounce, and "c'est la vie".
If you never plan on going offroad, i'd just jump to 315's, and call it a day, same amount of work with a sawzall, BFH, upgraded aftermarket suspension components, drivetrain upgrades (optional), and fuel costs... lol.
dood we need a 34/35 tire picture thread again.......need inspiration.
Xtremluck
New member
Yup I destroyed my rack at around 125,000 miles and I only have been running 33s this whole time. If you are using your truck offroad carrying a spare inner and outer tie rod + tools to pull a CV is bare minimum IMHO. I would say that would hold true for any IFS based vehicle
