Anyone running 35's without cutting entire fender flare/fender metal?

Even if slow crawling offroad and not taking jumps etc?
.

Yes, if you have your suspension setup dialed correctly you want to use most of your travel. I see all these folks on here putting 700lb springs on their coilovers and I dont think they realize the negative impact it has on ride quality and articulation.
 
To be clear on this - I have not done it myself. My 285/75/17s - 34's - fit fine with good alignment and BMC with stock bump stops and full flex in all situations without rub. I think the modified LCA is the best solution for this and I'm a bit surprised no one is selling this as a pre-packaged solution.


Is the extra tire size worth the effort? That's really a question only you can answer. For me it wasn't, but I also wasn't using my 4Runner as a primary trail rig.

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I really believe that 285/75/17 is the perfect tire size for the 5th gen. A good balance of extra clearance and lower impact on part reliability. Once these 35s wear out I will most likely downgrading to that size.
 
Yes, if you have your suspension setup dialed correctly you want to use most of your travel. I see all these folks on here putting 700lb springs on their coilovers and I dont think they realize the negative impact it has on ride quality and articulation.

I actually have the 6112s with heavy load 700lb springs since I have a lot of weight. They still seem to articulate and handle well though since I think it is pretty well dialed in for the current weight.
 
Here are the issues I see for myself going to 35's. I don't mind doing fiberglass wide fenders, but then id be tempted to do the long travel. the washer fluid bottle probably needs to be relocated as well but I am not sure if I have enough room for the relocation in any spot as I have a compressor on the passenger side and my dual battery too. inside the radiator support area I have cabling for the dual batteries, my winch and supercharger radiator. Going fiberglass fenders also does away with the fender liner which I don't like as mine will definitely fill with mud and salt/snow mix. I also would not want to be forced to need a snorkel for this reason.

I don't believe fiberglass fenders are necessary at all for 35" tires, it's actually not a big tire. Again, it all depends on what you're using the vehicle for. Mine is a daily driver and a trail rig, but it's not for show. Cutting fenders and trimming fender liners would be more than enough for me to run 35's, as long as the BMC was done, proper offset wheels were used, etc.

I understand if guys have newer, low mileage rigs and they want to keep them looking minty fresh, but i'm way passed that stage in life. It's a tool and i'll modify it to do a job. At this point, the pinstripes, dents and missing pieces are just trail badges. While 33's aren't big and I won't be a rock crawler anytime soon, they are a good enough tool to go most places I want, 35's will just make me less picky on what line I take, and leave my skid plates with less damage at the end of the day.

Washer fluid bottle relocation is easy as long as you don't need the same capacity bottle. It can me mounted literally anywhere and you can buy any bottle you want, or retrofit a milk jug if you're desperate (kidding). Just buy some rubber tubing bulk, some wire to extend the harness, find a spot to mount a new (smaller) bottle and put the pump in it.
 
I don't believe fiberglass fenders are necessary at all for 35" tires, it's actually not a big tire. Again, it all depends on what you're using the vehicle for. Mine is a daily driver and a trail rig, but it's not for show. Cutting fenders and trimming fender liners would be more than enough for me to run 35's, as long as the BMC was done, proper offset wheels were used, etc.

I understand if guys have newer, low mileage rigs and they want to keep them looking minty fresh, but i'm way passed that stage in life. It's a tool and i'll modify it to do a job. At this point, the pinstripes, dents and missing pieces are just trail badges. While 33's aren't big and I won't be a rock crawler anytime soon, they are a good enough tool to go most places I want, 35's will just make me less picky on what line I take, and leave my skid plates with less damage at the end of the day.

Washer fluid bottle relocation is easy as long as you don't need the same capacity bottle. It can me mounted literally anywhere and you can buy any bottle you want, or retrofit a milk jug if you're desperate (kidding). Just buy some rubber tubing bulk, some wire to extend the harness, find a spot to mount a new (smaller) bottle and put the pump in it.

I don't think theyre necessary but id rather pay that cost(small in comparison to OEM fenders) to not butcher my oem fenders. Or stay with 33/34 so none of that is necessary. As you said 35's would be a nice to have but not totally necessary. It would make picking lines easier.
 
I actually have the 6112s with heavy load 700lb springs since I have a lot of weight. They still seem to articulate and handle well though since I think it is pretty well dialed in for the current weight.

What is "heavy load"? I have dual batteries, dual compressor, a bunch of offroad lights, solar controller, winch, full winch bumper. So probably one of the heaviest configs you can have and I'm running 650lb springs with zero preload at 2.5" in of lift. Hell I think I could probably get away with a 600 lb spring with some preload

I think the only time you would have to move up to a 700lb spring is if you have a similar setup and you're running an ultra heavy front bumper like an ARB. If you are looking to fine tune suspension I would give Ben @ Filthymotorsports or Accutune a call. They both are the most knowledgeable in this space and will probably recommend the same thing.
 
I understand if guys have newer, low mileage rigs and they want to keep them looking minty fresh, but i'm way passed that stage in life. It's a tool and i'll modify it to do a job.

Love this quote, I think we need to send it to all of the folks who are playing offroad cosplay out there :)
 
What is "heavy load"? I have dual batteries, dual compressor, a bunch of offroad lights, solar controller, winch, full winch bumper. So probably one of the heaviest configs you can have and I'm running 650lb springs with zero preload at 2.5" in of lift. Hell I think I could probably get away with a 600 lb spring with some preload

I think the only time you would have to move up to a 700lb spring is if you have a similar setup and you're running an ultra heavy front bumper like an ARB. If you are looking to fine tune suspension I would give Ben @ Filthymotorsports or Accutune a call. They both are the most knowledgeable in this space and will probably recommend the same thing.


"heavy load" springs are the 6112's that come with 700lb springs instead of the 650lb and are meant for 200lbs extra weight static according to bilsteins description.

all the same things you have + supercharger(90 lbs), and sometimes RTT when on longer trips. It was enough to bring my old 2883 springs(2 in lift down to no lift height. I am right at 3" lift height right now front and rear.
 
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"heavy load" springs are the 6112's that come with 700lb springs instead of the 650lb and are meant for 200lbs extra weight static according to bilsteins description.

all the same things you have + supercharger(90 lbs), and sometimes RTT when on longer trips. It was enough to bring my old 2883 springs(2 in lift down to no lift height. I am right at 3" lift height right now front and rear.

If you are happy with your setup and it works for you, then there is no need to change it.

Although the internet experts want you to believe that their way is the only way to go about things, there is more than one way to skin a cat.
 
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If you are happy with your setup and it works for you, then there is no need to change it.

Although the internet experts want you to believe that their way is the only way to go about things, there is more than one way to skin a cat.

Yea no plans to change it as I still get good articulation and it maintains the lift I wanted. It's a pretty balanced setup right now so at this point the last piece for me is just new tires whether upsizing from 285/70 or not. But there is always a point that it is diminishing returns. I think as you have mentioned before 285/75(34s) is a good compromise and a pretty ideal size for this platform
 
If you are happy with your setup and it works for you, then there is no need to change it.

Although the internet experts want you to believe that their way is the only way to go about things, there is more than one way to skin a cat.

Isn't that kind of the point of this forum? To get opinions from folks who've had experience in these things we're asking about? I know that is the value I've gotten from this place all these years. I never said I was an expert in suspension hence my recommendation to talk to Filthy Motorports or Accutune.

As an aside I'm a heavier setup than the OP and used to run 700lb springs and 3in of lift myself. After talking to Ben @ Filthy Motorsports I begrudgingly agreed to try new coilovers with a 650lb spring and reduced lift height to 2.5". Night and day difference in ride quality and articulation.
 
Isn't that kind of the point of this forum? To get opinions from folks who've had experience in these things we're asking about? I know that is the value I've gotten from this place all these years. I never said I was an expert in suspension hence my recommendation to talk to Filthy Motorports or Accutune.

As an aside I'm a heavier setup than the OP and used to run 700lb springs and 3in of lift myself. After talking to Ben @ Filthy Motorsports I begrudgingly agreed to try new coilovers with a 650lb spring and reduced lift height to 2.5". Night and day difference in ride quality and articulation.


A great way to accomplish this is to go with a LT kit from Wicked Creations, Marlin Crawler, or Total Chaos. These kits move the front wheels forward, away from the rocker/fender area. May need to clearance the front bumper more, but solves the fender issue.
 
Isn't that kind of the point of this forum? To get opinions from folks who've had experience in these things we're asking about? I know that is the value I've gotten from this place all these years. I never said I was an expert in suspension hence my recommendation to talk to Filthy Motorports or Accutune.

As an aside I'm a heavier setup than the OP and used to run 700lb springs and 3in of lift myself. After talking to Ben @ Filthy Motorsports I begrudgingly agreed to try new coilovers with a 650lb spring and reduced lift height to 2.5". Night and day difference in ride quality and articulation.

I for sure appreciate everyone's opinions here on the forum and it is very helpful. As far as suspension setup I am enjoying it as it is so the only reason I would change it is to go with +2" or more long travel setup. I just upgraded to this setup from 5100's/ome springs last year so it is relatively new and fits my current needs. The metaltech rear long travel is great and I have taken it beyond its articulation limits already, but I don't see any equivalent for the front except maybe a +4.5" front LT kit.

The reason I would consider fiberglass fenders to make room to do LT in the future. I also hate to cut up OEM parts and would rather just buy replacement parts when modding and save the OEM parts on the side if needed later. The rig definitely gets used as it is my camping/fishing/hunting vehicle, but I try to keep it in good condition and maintained as I would like to keep it for 20 yrs. It is not daily driven except on snowy days in winter(like now lol).

I think our weights are probably pretty similar. I have a Warn front with winch, full armor, sliders, supercharger, ARB dual compressor, dual batteries, fridge, SSO rack, RTT, rigd hitch carrier with 2 jerry cans and a fridge.

I have been spending more time modding my other car so the 4runner has taken a back burner since I barely drive it.
 
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A great way to accomplish this is to go with a LT kit from Wicked Creations, Marlin Crawler, or Total Chaos. These kits move the front wheels forward, away from the rocker/fender area. May need to clearance the front bumper more, but solves the fender issue.

That would probably be my next mod if I decide to go down that rabbit hole eventually.
 
A great way to accomplish this is to go with a LT kit from Wicked Creations, Marlin Crawler, or Total Chaos. These kits move the front wheels forward, away from the rocker/fender area. May need to clearance the front bumper more, but solves the fender issue.

For sure, you can also throw in the new 74Weld portals into that mix. So many options out there for our platform these days which is great. One thing to consider though is the maintenance upkeep and reliability impact a lot of these aftermarket parts introduce with heavy offroad use. I seem to be changing out a bushing or a spherical bearing on something almost every few months.
 
I for sure appreciate everyone's opinions here on the forum and it is very helpful. As far as suspension setup I am enjoying it as it is so the only reason I would change it is to go with +2" or more long travel setup. I just upgraded to this setup from 5100's/ome springs last year so it is relatively new and fits my current needs. The metaltech rear long travel is great and I have taken it beyond its articulation limits already, but I don't see any equivalent for the front except maybe a +4.5" front LT kit.

The reason I would consider fiberglass fenders to make room to do LT in the future. I also hate to cut up OEM parts and would rather just buy replacement parts when modding and save the OEM parts on the side if needed later. The rig definitely gets used as it is my camping/fishing/hunting vehicle, but I try to keep it in good condition and maintained as I would like to keep it for 20 yrs. It is not daily driven except on snowy days in winter(like now lol).

I think our weights are probably pretty similar. I have a Warn front with winch, full armor, sliders, supercharger, ARB dual compressor, dual batteries, fridge, SSO rack, RTT, rigd hitch carrier with 2 jerry cans and a fridge.

I have been spending more time modding my other car so the 4runner has taken a back burner since I barely drive it.

You forgot about my 300 lb rear bumper, propane tank and mount, 100 lbs of tools and spare parts :)

For the use case you describe I would probably stick as close as you can to OEM style parts. It's always a balance of capability, decreased reliability, increased maintenance etc. It's up to you to figure out what the optimal balance is for your specific use case.
 
You forgot about my 300 lb rear bumper, propane tank and mount, 100 lbs of tools and spare parts :)

For the use case you describe I would probably stick as close as you can to OEM style parts. It's always a balance of capability, decreased reliability, increased maintenance etc. It's up to you to figure out what the optimal balance is for your specific use case.

I also carry about 50lbs of tools and a propane tank but no spare parts. but close enough! lol

Most of my sketchy offroad situations are when hunting, mostly trying to get to places that other people wouldn't go which is why I want to increase capability. will probably go up to 34's for now(if they release the AT4w's in 285/75 soon) and consider further supporting mods like full LT front, regear and wide fenders before moving up to 35's if ever.

Yea it's all a balance, but it helps going forward with mods knowing I never plan to get rid of the 4runner. I am especially rethinking reliability and reinforcement of all things like spindle gussets etc after i got stranded in the middle of nowhere on my last trip(though that was due to a failed throttle body).
 
As for the 74Weld portals or others for that matter, it's a path I considered before my SAS. There are pros and cons to everything and I'm happy I have the 14 bolt axle up front. For sure it's not for everyone but the cost of the 74Weld is high and you could easily get a d60 up front with lockers, gearing and links for less.

I'm also very heavy but I'm dumping my drawers and organizing tools and liquids differently. All in my pig is in the 6700# range and I use the snot out of it on the trails.

It's all about what you want to do with your rig. Most of you have vehicles road legal, mine is not. It could be, I just need dot tires [emoji1787]

Sent from my Pixel 8 Pro using Tapatalk
 
As for the 74Weld portals or others for that matter, it's a path I considered before my SAS. There are pros and cons to everything and I'm happy I have the 14 bolt axle up front. For sure it's not for everyone but the cost of the 74Weld is high and you could easily get a d60 up front with lockers, gearing and links for less.

I'm also very heavy but I'm dumping my drawers and organizing tools and liquids differently. All in my pig is in the 6700# range and I use the snot out of it on the trails.

It's all about what you want to do with your rig. Most of you have vehicles road legal, mine is not. It could be, I just need dot tires [emoji1787]

Sent from my Pixel 8 Pro using Tapatalk

You can drive it on the road with those tires! I'm originally from Hawaii and all the old school toyota truck guys used to drive 85 toyota pickups on 38" swampers daily lol.
 
For sure, you can also throw in the new 74Weld portals into that mix. So many options out there for our platform these days which is great. One thing to consider though is the maintenance upkeep and reliability impact a lot of these aftermarket parts introduce with heavy offroad use. I seem to be changing out a bushing or a spherical bearing on something almost every few months.

Yea that sucks. I try to avoid unprotected spherical bearings if possible because here the road salt would kill them quick. That is what made me go with the 6112's up front instead of matching Icon's. If icon made coilovers in aluminum to match the 2.5" VS(aluminum) series resi rears i have i would have got them. I wanted the new Fox Performance Elite series because they are aluminum but they weren't out at the time I was shopping. Thought at this point I would probably need to order custom rears for the long travel.
 

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