35k miles, wheeling, and towing. What to check before 1000+ mile camping trip

[brockeverly]

I have previously only had the regular maintenance done at the dealer (oil change and anything that comes along with it, doubtful anything) and replaced my battery, air and cabin filters. I have pulled my camper once a month for 200-300 miles or so since I bought the truck. I want to make sure that everything is up to par before we head out on this trip as it will be a huge ordeal if anything goes wrong. What should I check, replace, etc before we leave.

I notice in the maintenance schedule for severe use the following items:
- tighten nuts and bolts on chassis and body (where are these all located)
- replace rear and front diff fluid (plan on 75w-90 Mobil 1)
- replace transfer case fluid (plan on 75w-90 Mobil 1)
- lubricate propeller shaft (can I use the regular grease that I use on my trailer bearings)
- retorque propeller shaft bolt (where, and what is the tq spec)

Anything else you guys recommend I do? I have Tuesday/Wednesday off and I want to take care of this during that time. Thanks guys!

 

[brockeverly]

Now, it is currently 106 degrees outside. Working outside is a bish to say the least. I can have the diffs and transfer case done for $60 a piece ($180 total) before negotiating the dealer down. They also said that they would lubricate and retorque the propeller shaft. Should I request the dealer do all the things listed for the $180? I know that is a lot for the diffs, especially without using synthetic, but how much longer could I expect to get out of the synthetic fluids versus the dino the dealer will put in? The rear diff would take me all of five minutes I am sure, I am not sure about the front and the transfer case, but under an hour. Parts would be around $100 for seven quarts of gear oil, a hand pump to help with the front diff, and a 10mm for the front diff. It is only an $80 difference to sweat my junk off for an hour or so.

 

[brockeverly]

Oh, and FWIW, I am not new to turning wrenches. I just checked my rear diff and it is quite black but is not low or anything. It is a decent temp now that it is night, but I do not have the crush washers to replace them, so I cannot do it tonight. I might just knock it out on Tuesday. I would bet I can get the oil a bit cheaper at Walmart, I was guessing high at $10 a quart which is what I used to pay for Royal Purple for the diffs in my STi.

 

[stanleybb50]

Just turn the crush washer around this time. You'll be good.

 

[Mijfwb23]

If you aren't new to wrenching then I suggest you do it yourself. Save the money and that way you have all the tools for the next time you do it.
I am sure you have seen my write-ups but here they are again just for reference. Both are really easy.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/117482-front-rear-diff-fluid-change.html#post1091785
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/117523-prop-shaft-greasing.html#post1092158

Edit: All the crush washers cost less then $5 and they had them instock at the dealer.

 

[Intruder]

Now, it is currently 106 degrees outside.

Check your coolant levels?

 

[brockeverly]

Check your coolant levels?

Coolant levels in the truck are fine, as for mine I think a 6 pack of Shocktop is in order LOL

 

[Michigander]

I have previously only had the regular maintenance done at the dealer (oil change and anything that comes along with it, doubtful anything) and replaced my battery, air and cabin filters. I have pulled my camper once a month for 200-300 miles or so since I bought the truck. I want to make sure that everything is up to par before we head out on this trip as it will be a huge ordeal if anything goes wrong. What should I check, replace, etc before we leave.

I notice in the maintenance schedule for severe use the following items:
- tighten nuts and bolts on chassis and body (where are these all located)
- replace rear and front diff fluid (plan on 75w-90 Mobil 1)
- replace transfer case fluid (plan on 75w-90 Mobil 1)
- lubricate propeller shaft (can I use the regular grease that I use on my trailer bearings)
- retorque propeller shaft bolt (where, and what is the tq spec)

Anything else you guys recommend I do? I have Tuesday/Wednesday off and I want to take care of this during that time. Thanks guys!

I would do the fluid change myself if I were you, you will know its done right and that you are good for your trip. Remember to crack the fill plug loose before you drain the diff, if it is frozen you won't be able to refill.

You may want to check out amsoil severe gear lube. If I remember right, metal tech recommends that lube. I have a case sitting in my garage. It came highly recommended from a road racing buddy too. I know oil / lube is a highly contentious topic, so just a suggestion. Everyone has their favorite.

The bolts for the drive shafts are at the diffs and the transfer case. The bolt actually threads through the flanges, then there is a nut as well, so it is double nutted so to speak. Don't have the torque handy.

Regarding the driveshaft grease, make sure whatever grease you use is compatible with the original grease. Some greases don't place nice together and you can nuke your bearings quickly. The grease is the same type that you would use for wheel bearings.

I would recommend you make sure your main ground bolts and battery connections are clean and tight. Vibration from off road washboard / fast paced dirt roads can loosen bolts up. Maybe also give your suspension bolts a once over as well. Shock bolts, control arm bolts, swaybars, etc. Were you the guy that lost a shock bolt? I like to take a paint pen and mark the bolt / nut and frame adjacent so I can quickly tell if something is loosening up by visual inspection.

Enjoy your trip. Take lots of pictures!

 

[1engineer]

I have previously only had the regular maintenance done at the dealer (oil change and anything that comes along with it, doubtful anything) and replaced my battery, air and cabin filters. I have pulled my camper once a month for 200-300 miles or so since I bought the truck. I want to make sure that everything is up to par before we head out on this trip as it will be a huge ordeal if anything goes wrong. What should I check, replace, etc before we leave.

I notice in the maintenance schedule for severe use the following items:
- tighten nuts and bolts on chassis and body (where are these all located)
- replace rear and front diff fluid (plan on 75w-90 Mobil 1)
- replace transfer case fluid (plan on 75w-90 Mobil 1)
- lubricate propeller shaft (can I use the regular grease that I use on my trailer bearings)
- retorque propeller shaft bolt (where, and what is the tq spec)

Anything else you guys recommend I do? I have Tuesday/Wednesday off and I want to take care of this during that time. Thanks guys!

It's only another 1K miles lol just check what you normally do. Oh, and download some new songs for a new playlist!

I did read somewhere from someone way smarter than me that gave (what I thought) was good advice: Never Do Maintenance Right Before A Long Trip. Reasoning? Because you could screw something up (leave a bolt out, have a leak, etc) so check/change/repair at least a week BEFORE the big trip so any problems could be caught just driving around town.

 

[Mijfwb23]

I am getting ready to do a long trip also in 2 weeks, Seattle to San Antonio which is about 2200 miles one way. I did my diffs because they were never done and I have been in the water quite a few times. I will do an oil change when I get back since my last one was done about 2000 miles ago and I am going with Toyota's 10k oil change plan. I will also rotate my tires when I get back since they only have about 1000 miles on them.
I agree with 1engineer, don't do too much since you don't want to break anything or cause any issues before a big trip.
I would just do a good visual inspection under/in/around the car. Also I would blow out or replace the cabin airfilter since most people forget about that and driving in dusty climates really mucks it up.
Mainly just have fun.

 

[brockeverly]

I head up the 28th so I will have time to find any mess ups lol. Thanks guys!

 

[tlflow]

towing

I keep mine in 4th when towing, the tranny stays cooler too.
I really like my scangauge(hint)

 

[Michigander]

I keep mine in 4th when towing, the tranny stays cooler too.
I really like my scangauge(hint)

4th gear locks the torque converter above 45 or 55 mph if I recall correctly.

A locked torque converter means no hydraulic slip in the converter and less heat generation.

 

[brockeverly]

I keep mine in 4th when towing, the tranny stays cooler too.
I really like my scangauge(hint)

I have one

 

[brockeverly]

So tonight it cooled down a bit so I decided to do the diffs and transfer case. The dealer was wanting $180 for it, I did it for about $50. 7 qts of Supertech Synthetic Blend 75w-90 in all three (only thing I could find that was not labeled for LSD). The zerk fittings were at the perfect angle so I went ahead and greased them with the same grease I used to do my trailer bearings. I did find a great part of being lifted on 285s, no jack or jack stands needed. Just crawled right under there and did the work.

One thing I did notice, on a quick stop there is no longer that feeling as if someone just rear ended me. My garage floor is now covered completely in dirt that fell off the skids and everywhere else underneath, but that just says job well done