35's can't be impossible...

Havik

Havik

New member
I really want to get some bigger tires under the runner, 35's would be great, 37's would be a dream. It can't be impossible, right? I'm not talking about a custom SAS or some other 5 figure mod. With the 33's on the stock wheels, I don't rub at all. When I added 1.25" spacers I started to rub on the front bumper at full lock. I figure with a plate bumper, that problem would be solved. I also know a lot of people who chop the body mount and heat and reshape the fender liners. Plus, changing UCA's helps as well. If we did all of these things, would we be able to fit 35's on a 3" lifted 4R?

If all these things wouldn't do it, what else would be needed? What other options do we have for getting 35" tires to fit? Doesn't anyone make a suspension kit (long travel perhaps) that would accommodate 35's?

Let's get our thinking caps on and solve this problem. I am willing to try a lot of things as long as they don't end up costing me 10K plus on top of what I have already spent.
 
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35s are possible with a high enough lift, wheeling with them is a whole other story. At full stuff the fronts won't be the issue, your wheels will impact the back of the wheel wells and your fenders. You can probably mitigate this by limiting your uptravel with longer bumpstops.

[MENTION=77370]Gabex35[/MENTION] is running 315/70/17 KO2, not too much of a difference from a true 35 (which usually don't run full 35" anyhow). The KO2 are about 34.5x12.25" IIRC.
 
its been done... [MENTION=124732]LawnDart[/MENTION] rolls 35s and their are some that go even bigger. Get ready to cut up your truck and incorporate suspension components beyond springs and shocks. It will get pricey, probably require a regear, burn a new hole in the zone and look cool as hell.
 
weeeee said:
35s are possible with a high enough lift, wheeling with them is a whole other story. At full stuff the fronts won't be the issue, your wheels will impact the back of the wheel wells and your fenders. You can probably mitigate this by limiting your uptravel with longer bumpstops.

[MENTION=77370]Gabex35[/MENTION] is running 315/70/17 KO2, not too much of a difference from a true 35 (which usually don't run full 35" anyhow). The KO2 are about 34.5x12.25" IIRC.
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What's a "high enough lift?"
 
Havik said:
I really want to get some bigger tires under the runner, 35's would be great, 37's would be a dream. It can't be impossible, right? I'm not talking about a custom SAS or some other 5 figure mod. With the 33's on the stock tires, I don't rub at all. When I added 1.25" spacers I started to rub on the front bumper at full lock. I figure with a plate bumper, that problem would be solved. I also know a lot of people who chop the body mount and heat and reshape the fender liners. Plus, changing UCA's helps as well. If we did all of these things, would we be able to fit 35's on a 3" lifted 4R?

If all these things wouldn't do it, what else would be needed? What other options do we have for getting 35" tires to fit? Doesn't anyone make a suspension kit (long travel perhaps) that would accommodate 35's?

Let's get our thinking caps on and solve this problem. I am willing to try a lot of things as long as they don't end up costing me 10K plus on top of what I have already spent.
Click to expand...
Several threads on this topic. Here's one http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/203522-why-everyone-so-scared-35s-tires.html and there are more.

Bottom line: Making them work going to the mall is one thing, making it work going off road is a different story. Look up [MENTION=104049]marshal[/MENTION]'s build thread. He did it. I really like the custom flared and rolled fenders he had to design and build to keep the upper wheel opening from cutting his tires on full stuff.

Or you can go with a 6" bracket lift and they will fit fine. Unfortunately now your CG is way high and a tippy vehicle is not a good off road vehicle.

So there are ways to do it. If you never go off road, lift it 3", keep the stock wheel width and offset, buy yourself a BFH and soon you will be rolling down the street on 35's.

Your cost restrictions you listed above could be a problem though. See, it's going to cost you $5K or so just to regear to a usable ratio for that size tire on a 4Runner unless you don't like any acceleration and keep the stock gearing.

So yes, it can be done. Go for it!
 
Havik said:
No, I've spent thousands of dollars on my truck to respond to dumbass shit like this.
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All's I'm saying, I have wore down 33's and rub with my 1.5" body lift on occasion. Didn't see any wheeling pics in your thread so it's not my fault for asking the question.

You wouldn't be the first to spend thousands of dollars on their truck and not use it.
 
CF_Machete said:
its been done... [MENTION=124732]LawnDart[/MENTION] rolls 35s and their are some that go even bigger. Get ready to cut up your truck and incorporate suspension components beyond springs and shocks. It will get pricey, probably require a regear, burn a new hole in the zone and look cool as hell.
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He also has a small fortune in suspension, I believe OP wanted to do it without spending a lot
 
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1engineer said:
Several threads on this topic. Here's one http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/203522-why-everyone-so-scared-35s-tires.html and there are more.

Bottom line: Making them work going to the mall is one thing, making it work going off road is a different story. Look up [MENTION=104049]marshal[/MENTION]'s build thread. He did it. I really like the custom flared and rolled fenders he had to design and build to keep the upper wheel opening from cutting his tires on full stuff.

Or you can go with a 6" bracket lift and they will fit fine. Unfortunately now your CG is way high and a tippy vehicle is not a good off road vehicle.

So there are ways to do it. If you never go off road, lift it 3", keep the stock wheel width and offset, buy yourself a BFH and soon you will be rolling down the street on 35's.

Your cost restrictions you listed above could be a problem though. See, it's going to cost you $5K or so just to regear to a usable ratio for that size tire on a 4Runner unless you don't like any acceleration and keep the stock gearing.

So yes, it can be done. Go for it!
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Why are you spending 5k to regear? Even in SoCal, where everything costs more for some apparent reason, I have gotten a quote to regear both axles for $3000.

This is for hitting the trails, not the mall. That's why I am asking. I want to hear from someone who is running 35's who can tell me exactly what it takes and what I need to know after it's done. I want to know what the pitfalls might be once I have the correct setup.
 
Whoever said it was impossible is lying, but if anyone ever told you it'd be straightforward, uncomplicated, or anything approaching easy would be pulling your leg.
 
Havik said:
Why are you spending 5k to regear? Even in SoCal, where everything costs more for some apparent reason, I have gotten a quote to regear both axles for $3000.

This is for hitting the trails, not the mall. That's why I am asking. I want to hear from someone who is running 35's who can tell me exactly what it takes and what I need to know after it's done. I want to know what the pitfalls might be once I have the correct setup.
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The 34" thread should be a good starting point. They wheel their rigs pretty regularly, should give you a good idea of what's required

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/192062-help-me-decide-34-tires.html
 
JSparky said:
Whoever said it was impossible is lying, but if anyone ever told you it'd be straightforward, uncomplicated, or anything approaching easy would be pulling your leg.
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No one said it was impossible, I was just trying to think of a title. I really want to know what it takes. If it is going to cost 10k+ then it won't be worth it for me. If it takes just a few more mods, then I'm in.
 
Havik said:
No, I've spent thousands of dollars on my truck to respond to dumbass shit like this.
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Sorry dude, couldn't resist. This community doesn't break balls... we shatter them.
 

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Havik said:
Why are you spending 5k to regear? Even in SoCal, where everything costs more for some apparent reason, I have gotten a quote to regear both axles for $3000.

This is for hitting the trails, not the mall. That's why I am asking. I want to hear from someone who is running 35's who can tell me exactly what it takes and what I need to know after it's done. I want to know what the pitfalls might be once I have the correct setup.
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Many already have posted the names of people who have done it. Just go read their build threads.
 
Havik said:
Thanks for chiming in, I was hoping you would see this thread. Besides the amount of money, what else is needed? What does it actually take?
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Don't be a smart ass or this forum will drag you out to the curb, ridicule you, and flick you in the dick till you cry and pee in the corner.

That said, I'm running a +2 long travel kit, and long travel rear, with a major body mount chop. Keep in mind that alters my suspension geometry far more than a mid-travel, which gives me a leg up on clearance vs mid-travel.

My setup is in the 5 figures, and well documented on my build thread, so it goes without saying that there's some reading up that'd benefit you.

Here's the thing, if you want to fit 35s on fine, but be prepared to do a LOT of cutting/welding, and re-gearing.
 
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