35's can't be impossible...

[Havik]

Don't be a smart ass or this forum will drag you out to the curb, ridicule you, and flick you in the dick till you cry and pee in the corner.

That said, I'm running a +2 long travel kit, and long travel rear, with a major body mount chop. Keep in mind that alters my suspension geometry far more than a mid-travel, which gives me a leg up on clearance vs mid-travel.

My setup is in the 5 figures, and well documented on my build thread, so it goes without saying that there's some reading up that'd benefit you.

Here's the thing, if you want to fit 35s on fine, but be prepared to do a LOT of cutting/welding, and re-gearing.

If you re-read this thread, I'm the one NOT being a smart ass. Everyone seems to be quick to say dumbshit, I was here trying to gather some info. As far as ridicule, etc, etc... I'm not worried. I'm a grown man and the opinions of Internet warriors who don't know me at all doesn't bother me one bit. I didn't start with any smart-ass comments, I just fell for the trap of responding to them. But if this community isn't into sharing knowledge and just want to talk shit, then no sweat, I'll just stop posting here.

 

[LawnDart]

If you re-read this thread, I'm the one NOT being a smart ass. Everyone seems to be quick to say dumbshit, I was here trying to gather some info. As far as ridicule, etc, etc... I'm not worried. I'm a grown man and the opinions of Internet warriors who don't know me at all doesn't bother me one bit. I didn't start with any smart-ass comments, I just fell for the trap of responding to them. But if this community isn't into sharing knowledge and just want to talk shit, then no sweat, I'll just stop posting here.

If you already knew of me and my build, a lot of information could be gleamed from that. If you're not prepared for the issues associated with 35s on mid-travel, run away screaming from the cost associated with long travel.

Everyone in this thread could use a nice big glass of chill the **** out.

 

[Vinsil]

It's the internet...and a forum. It will happen in almost every thread. Look, you posted this today and got solid info, numbers and direction on what to read (build reads) from members who have done it and shared.

But then again, I hear these guys are gentle if that was too much to take.

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eace:

 

[CF_Machete]

If you re-read this thread, I'm the one NOT being a smart ass. Everyone seems to be quick to say dumbshit, I was here trying to gather some info. As far as ridicule, etc, etc... I'm not worried. I'm a grown man and the opinions of Internet warriors who don't know me at all doesn't bother me one bit. I didn't start with any smart-ass comments, I just fell for the trap of responding to them. But if this community isn't into sharing knowledge and just want to talk shit, then no sweat, I'll just stop posting here.

Sigh...

 

[Havik]

If you already knew of me and my build, a lot of information could be gleamed from that. If you're not prepared for the issues associated with 35s on mid-travel, run away screaming from the cost associated with long travel.

Everyone in this thread could use a nice big glass of chill the **** out.

I didn't know of you, I saw your name in this thread saying you run 35's. And since someone mentioned you, I hoped you would see the thread and provide input as someone who has actually done what I want to do.

Now I can look into your build thread and hopefully learn a lot and I thank you for that information. There are some helpful people in this thread and, as usual, a few guys who have nothing to add but BS.

 

[Gabex35]

I am running 315/70-17 KO2's and do rub but only when smashing through the desert and it's really not that bad.
I do have a pretty aggressive BMC, have cut some of the fender flare at the bottom of front fender.
As far as suspension, I am running Kings at about 2.5" of lift, spidertrax spacers, and 4.5" BS wheels.

I did the Mojave trail this weekend along with some snow wheeling and didn't have any issues with stuffing them. You will rub a speed when abruptly changing direction or having to stuff the brakes through the floor.
Overall, it's very doable if your willing to cut up some stuff.

 

[1engineer]

If you re-read this thread, I'm the one NOT being a smart ass. Everyone seems to be quick to say dumbshit, I was here trying to gather some info. As far as ridicule, etc, etc... I'm not worried. I'm a grown man and the opinions of Internet warriors who don't know me at all doesn't bother me one bit. I didn't start with any smart-ass comments, I just fell for the trap of responding to them. But if this community isn't into sharing knowledge and just want to talk shit, then no sweat, I'll just stop posting here.

Go back and re-read your first post from our point of view please. The reason you are getting a hard time is it sounds exactly like some new guy with no experience wants to build a Bro runner for the mall and we get plenty of those.

The is is an extremely helpful forum with a lot of knowledgeable people. Do a bit of reading and ask some specific questions (not something vague like how to fit 35's) and these guys will be plenty helpful.

 

[LawnDart]

I didn't know of you, I saw your name in this thread saying you run 35's. And since someone mentioned you, I hoped you would see the thread and provide input as someone who has actually done what I want to do.

Now I can look into your build thread and hopefully learn a lot and I thank you for that information. There are some helpful people in this thread and, as usual, a few guys who have nothing to add but BS.

Here's your main issue to overcome:

"I am willing to try a lot of things as long as they don't end up costing me 10K plus on top of what I have already spent." - Havik

If you're asking about long travel, well...again, yeah that aint happening for cheap. And if you're doing long travel cheap + quality don't go well together.

Marshal got 35s to fit, but I know he's experienced rubbing for sure. I only get some rubbing when fully locked and aired down, but again my suspension represents what happens when you just tell a company like total chaos fab to "SHUT UP AND TAKE ALL MY MONEY"

 

[Havik]

I am running 315/70-17 KO2's and do rub but only when smashing through the desert and it's really not that bad.
I do have a pretty aggressive BMC, have cut some of the fender flare at the bottom of front fender.
As far as suspension, I am running Kings at about 2.5" of lift, spidertrax spacers, and 4.5" BS wheels.

I did the Mojave trail this weekend along with some snow wheeling and didn't have any issues with stuffing them. You will rub a speed when abruptly changing direction or having to stuff the brakes through the floor.
Overall, it's very doable if your willing to cut up some stuff.

Thank you for posting! I have a 3" lift, stock TE wheels, and spidertrax spacers. It sounds like the only thing left to do is some cutting, is that right? Do you have any pictures of the cuts you had to make, specifically to the body mount? Thanks again for posting.

 

[Vinsil]

Those 315 KO2's are NOT 35" tires, which why he's getting it to work as it is. Also...without knowing your wheeling style/trails, that makes it harder. Again, we don't know you.....

You might think glamis parked watching the drags is wheeling...we don't know.

 

[Havik]

Here's your main issue to overcome:

"I am willing to try a lot of things as long as they don't end up costing me 10K plus on top of what I have already spent." - Havik

If you're asking about long travel, well...again, yeah that aint happening for cheap. And if you're doing long travel cheap + quality don't go well together.

Marshal got 35s to fit, but I know he's experienced rubbing for sure. I only get some rubbing when fully locked and aired down, but again my suspension represents what happens when you just tell a company like total chaos fab to "SHUT UP AND TAKE ALL MY MONEY"

There is a reason I don't want to spend another 10K, for me spending that much to get 35's to fit isn't worth the benefits they bring. I included that because I know anything can be done if you throw enough money at it.

I love hitting the trails and there have been a few situations when my friends who have 35" tires have had a much easier time than I have. They don't have 5th gen 4Runners so I can't ask them what they did. So, I want to know what it will take to get 35's on my truck. If it isn't some absurd amount of money (for me, as we all have different limits), then I will do it. If not, then I will have to deal with 33's.

 

[LawnDart]

Those 315 KO2's are NOT 35" tires, which why he's getting it to work as it is. Also...without knowing your wheeling style/trails, that makes it harder. Again, we don't know you.....

You might think glamis parked watching the drags is wheeling...we don't know.

Bingo. 35s say 35s on the side.

 

[Vinsil]

There is a reason I don't want to spend another 10K, for me spending that much to get 35's to fit isn't worth the benefits they bring. I included that because I know anything can be done if you throw enough money at it.

I love hitting the trails and there have been a few situations when my friends who have 35" tires have had a much easier time than I have. They don't have 5th gen 4Runners so I can't ask them what they did. So, I want to know what it will take to get 35's on my truck. If it isn't some observed amount of money (for me, as we all have different limits), then I will do it. If not, then I will have to deal with 33's.

If they are running different rigs...how do you know the tires are the biggest difference!? Wheelbase, vehicle weight, suspension, gearing, lockers, driver skill....they all make it hard to compare unless your flat out talking about the static ground clearance that a larger tire provides...and even different brands mounted on different wheels will impact that. :shrug:

 

[LawnDart]

If it isn't some absurd amount of money (for me, as we all have different limits), then I will do it. If not, then I will have to deal with 33's.

I think you just answered your own question. If it was easy or cheap, everyone would be doing it. If I could cram 37's in there I would.

Even then I'm constantly adjusting things such as re-triming the fender liners, and whatnot.

 

[bofa]

:eyebrows:Who doesn't want an extra couple of inches?

 

[Havik]

I think you just answered your own question. If it was easy or cheap, everyone would be doing it. If I could cram 37's in there I would.

Even then I'm constantly adjusting things such as re-triming the fender liners, and whatnot.

I don't think I have... first, I never said easy, or even cheap. I said I don't want to spend 10k+ on top of what I have so far. I don't think spending 8K is cheap, but I am willing to do it if it.

 

[Inv4drZm]

I'll take that as a maybe...

If 5th gens are like 4th gens,

You can get into the 35 club for the cost of the tires, correctly offset wheels, a couple cutoff wheels, maybe a dremel to trim the corner of your bumper, and some washers to lower your bumpstops if you get tired of trimming. Removing mud flaps is free. Use a hammer and heat gun to gain more clearance inside your fenders. You will still have a bit of rubbing on trails if you flex it out, but problem solved, it will be usable. A body lift will help a bit when stuffing and is cheap.

For street driving, correctly offset wheels, trimmed bumper, and a BMC are all that is necessary.

Again, if they are like 4th gens or FJ's, you won't need to regear unless you plan on towing. My V8 would laugh at 35's, my brother's FJ gets along fine with 34's, and a friend's FJ with 35" mud terrains is still fine to drive across the country. But the people that drive those aren't pansies.

Technically, 315's are too wide to fit on stock width wheels according to manufacturers and my local experienced tire shop gurus.

 

[Havik]

I'll take that as a maybe...

If 5th gens are like 4th gens,

You can get into the 35 club for the cost of the tires, correctly offset wheels, a couple cutoff wheels, maybe a dremel to trim the corner of your bumper, and some washers to lower your bumpstops if you get tired of trimming. Removing mud flaps is free. Use a hammer and heat gun to gain more clearance inside your fenders. You will still have a bit of rubbing on trails if you flex it out, but problem solved, it will be usable. A body lift will help a bit when stuffing and is cheap.

For street driving, correctly offset wheels, trimmed bumper, and a BMC are all that is necessary.

Again, if they are like 4th gens or FJ's, you won't need to regear unless you plan on towing. My V8 would laugh at 35's, my brother's FJ gets along fine with 34's, and a friend's FJ with 35" mud terrains is still fine to drive across the country. But the people that drive those aren't pansies.

Technically, 315's are too wide to fit on stock width wheels according to manufacturers and my local experienced tire shop gurus.

Thanks, that's good info. What offset would I need? Would spacers (I have the 1.25" Spidertrax spacers) on the stock wheels help or hurt?

 

[Seattle206]

This is Manhstuh's whip on Duratrac 35s. He wheels his pretty hard. These are off his IG.

 

[wfo9]

It can be done.. A true 35 is a little harder, but still possible if you know what you are doing and willing to do some thinking and cutting. It is not for most 5th gen owners.

I run 34.1 now. 35s are in the plans in the next set. But you should not even consider them without a re-gear to 4.56 or 4.88. The re-gear is not just for the road.. You need it to control the truck on the trails. I know plenty of people with stock gearing and 35s and they all peform poorly if you ask me. Also if you are having trouble keeping up on the trails... Think about suspension travel and lockers before jumping straight to 35s. Tire size is a factor that cannot be ignored, but I think a 34 class tire is plenty and is well matched to the 5th gen. I can pretty much keep up with most JKs on 35s.. but 5th gens have their limits...

Some things to consider
- It's all about alignment. Getting the wheels as far forward as possible is key. So UCAs with adjust-ability play a big role.
- BMC is mandatory
- Wheel spacers make things much worse due to the increased scrub radius. Keep back spacing in 4.0 - 4.5 range
- A LCA that could move the lower ball joint forward would be great, but these are only available in LT setups (which will get super expensive fast)
- You will probably need to relocate the washer bottle
- a small body lift (1/2") will help and is easy
- if your truck is for trails (not high speed desert bumps...). don't be afraid to increase the bump stops to run a bit more tire.

Lifts don't really allow for bigger tires (unless you also limit up travel via bump stops...). Its one of the most misunderstood myths.. There are also bracket lifts that do allow for bigger tires, but I don't think you want that.

If you want the cheap route to 35s.
- BCM
- Small body lift
- Be ready to increase bump stops slightly and trim what hits
- Adjustable UCAs with heim joints. These should allow you to get the wheels more forward while maintianing reasonable camber. But you need someone who is willing to dial in the alignment and adjust the UCAs. LR UCAs might also do the trick (but I dont' really trust them myself)