**35's on a 4th Gen - The Fitment Guide**
- Thread starter rickashay
- Start date
Billynath1988
Senior Member
Well, .... This 4runner is now on 35's @162k
Thanks to everyone that contributed to this thread to help make this happen.
255/85R17 =35x10R17
Mickey Thompson Baja Boss AT's
Genuine TRD SEMA edition Gloss gunmetal wheels
Thanks to everyone that contributed to this thread to help make this happen.
255/85R17 =35x10R17
Mickey Thompson Baja Boss AT's
Genuine TRD SEMA edition Gloss gunmetal wheels
Attachments
taxzz
New member
- Dobinson IMS w/ Rear Long Travel 3" Lift
- C59-352 Front Coils
- C59-701v Rear Coils
- SPC UCAs
- Yoko Geolander 35x12.5R17
- PCK
- No Sways
- BMC (probably not aggressive enough)
- lots of other trimming to rear of front wheel well
- i still rub at full stuff on the rear, but not enough to really bother me
Last edited:
TLar25
New member
What did you do for bump stops in the rear? Looks great. Think I may have already asked you this on another thread [emoji28]
- Dobinson IMS w/ Rear Long Travel 3" Lift
- C59-352 Front Coils
- C59-701v Rear Coils
- SPC UCAs
- Yoko Geolander 35x12.5R17
- PCK
- No Sways
- BMC (probably not aggressive enough)
- lots of other trimming to rear of front wheel well
- i still rub at full stuff on the rear, but not enough to really bother me
Sent from my KB2007 using Tapatalk
you get an appropriately sized bump stop extension unless you want your inner fender/door to be your limiting factor lol.
I made a custom 2" drop bracket from some rectangular tubing and mounted the factory bump stop to it. Mine also rubs similarly when fully on the bump stop but only enough to scuff the coastal offroad rear bumper and the inside of the door a little.
Syr4RinNC
New member
Did you cut off the bottom half of the bumper? Ive been debating this bc off road bumpers are so expensive
taxzz
New member
as another said, you get a bump stop extension. it still rubbed the tiniest bit on the rear, but it self-tubbed after a few days on the trail.
TLar25
New member
Yup, maybe a little more than half [emoji28] trimmed the front bumper as well. I've seen a few people trim the rear bumper on 4th gens as well, but it's not super common for some reason. Mine just got hit a few weeks ago so I'm running without the drivers side cap currently. Really makes it more obvious that I need to do some rust removal/treatment [emoji51]
Sent from my KB2007 using Tapatalk
I did some flex testing last night with my 35's and wanted to throw in some feed back for those interested.
My current setup:
-JBA UCA
-Icon 2.5 shocks with reservoirs front/rear
-1" body lift
-35" wildepeaks
-1" wheel spacers front/rear
-rear spring 1" extenders
-2" rise/2" bulge wide tacoma front fenders
-Coastal offroad front and rear bumpers
-homemade 2" rear bump stop extension
-homemade adjustable rear links with heim joints
My current trimming/cutting:
-aggressively cut body mount ( I will be cutting this off completely and doing the cab mount relocation from the tacoma soon in preparation for future 37's)
-cut and beat in pinch weld
At full articulation (or as close as I could get it on the loading ramp) with my front LCA sitting on the factory bump stop, I have about 1" of clearance up to the fender and maybe 2" of clearance to the fender apron.
The firewall clears while wheels are straight, but there is still some rubbing midway through the turning radius under compression. You can see it where the black paint has been worn off on the pinch weld. It's fairly minor, but I have plans to cut out and tub this section later on to allow me to run 37's.
With the 1" spacers installed I don't believe I am running the frame rail at full lock anymore. If it is rubbing, it is VERY minimal.
For the rear, I have my axle centered in the opening, and there is definitely some minor rubbing on both the bumper as well as the inside of the door flare. This is happening at full articulation when the bump stop compresses fully.
My plan is to cut the rear bumper back by approximately 1 or 2 inches to allow me to further push the axle back, but I also do want to trim about 1" all the way around the arc which would then require a bit more work to seal off the door on the inside. There is plenty more clearance to go up to stuff the tire if I can keep it from rubbing on these points. Without physically having done the test, I think I could clear a 37 fairly decently with a bit of trimming and still retain my full travel. I'm planning on buying a wheel adapter in order to throw on my brothers 37's from his jeep just to do some testing with.
All in all, is pretty easy to run a 35 if you aren't afraid to do some cutting (well..not some, its quite a bit, but to cut a 1/4" is the same as cutting out 2" to me so there..lol) but if you don't wheel too hard and can live with some rubbing you could minimize your efforts.
My long term plan is to go long travel in the front (looking at doing the +4.5 LT kit from BTF fabrication along with a for 10.5" axle in the rear on a 3-link setup. That would hopefully allow me to run a 12" coilover up front with a 14" shock in the rear and get a bit more travel out this land whale.
My current setup:
-JBA UCA
-Icon 2.5 shocks with reservoirs front/rear
-1" body lift
-35" wildepeaks
-1" wheel spacers front/rear
-rear spring 1" extenders
-2" rise/2" bulge wide tacoma front fenders
-Coastal offroad front and rear bumpers
-homemade 2" rear bump stop extension
-homemade adjustable rear links with heim joints
My current trimming/cutting:
-aggressively cut body mount ( I will be cutting this off completely and doing the cab mount relocation from the tacoma soon in preparation for future 37's)
-cut and beat in pinch weld
At full articulation (or as close as I could get it on the loading ramp) with my front LCA sitting on the factory bump stop, I have about 1" of clearance up to the fender and maybe 2" of clearance to the fender apron.
The firewall clears while wheels are straight, but there is still some rubbing midway through the turning radius under compression. You can see it where the black paint has been worn off on the pinch weld. It's fairly minor, but I have plans to cut out and tub this section later on to allow me to run 37's.
With the 1" spacers installed I don't believe I am running the frame rail at full lock anymore. If it is rubbing, it is VERY minimal.
For the rear, I have my axle centered in the opening, and there is definitely some minor rubbing on both the bumper as well as the inside of the door flare. This is happening at full articulation when the bump stop compresses fully.
My plan is to cut the rear bumper back by approximately 1 or 2 inches to allow me to further push the axle back, but I also do want to trim about 1" all the way around the arc which would then require a bit more work to seal off the door on the inside. There is plenty more clearance to go up to stuff the tire if I can keep it from rubbing on these points. Without physically having done the test, I think I could clear a 37 fairly decently with a bit of trimming and still retain my full travel. I'm planning on buying a wheel adapter in order to throw on my brothers 37's from his jeep just to do some testing with.
All in all, is pretty easy to run a 35 if you aren't afraid to do some cutting (well..not some, its quite a bit, but to cut a 1/4" is the same as cutting out 2" to me so there..lol) but if you don't wheel too hard and can live with some rubbing you could minimize your efforts.
My long term plan is to go long travel in the front (looking at doing the +4.5 LT kit from BTF fabrication along with a for 10.5" axle in the rear on a 3-link setup. That would hopefully allow me to run a 12" coilover up front with a 14" shock in the rear and get a bit more travel out this land whale.
Last edited:
[MENTION=85520]Billynath1988[/MENTION], could you tell us what mods were required to fit those tires and what rubbing if any you have? Perhaps you can give all the info list in the first post on this thread (bumper stops, suspension, body lift, etc.). I'm curious what mods aren't required with the skinnies.
I see another skinny (almost) 35 option here: https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tire...=Wrangler+MT/R+with+Kevlar&partnum=78QR7WMTRK
WRANGLER MT/R WITH KEVLAR - SIZE: LT275/80R17
121/118Q D
None 3,195 lbs 65 psi 21/32" 60 lbs 7.5-9" 8" 11" 8.5" 34.3" 600 US
I see another skinny (almost) 35 option here: https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tire...=Wrangler+MT/R+with+Kevlar&partnum=78QR7WMTRK
WRANGLER MT/R WITH KEVLAR - SIZE: LT275/80R17
121/118Q D
None 3,195 lbs 65 psi 21/32" 60 lbs 7.5-9" 8" 11" 8.5" 34.3" 600 US
Billynath1988
Senior Member
Well, my complete build list broken down by section is in my Build page on my signature here.
in short, it's a 3-inch lift, no body lift, front and rear bump stops, and lots of trimming. It drives down the road fine, dirt trail no problem... if I got into any rock crawling/extreme flexing situation there would certainly be rubbing.
A lot of the rubbing is on the rear side of the wheel well and body mounts even with trimming. What would help is SPC adjustable control arms that could push the entire wheel assembly forward and then adjust from there, however, I'm not sold on longevity or quality over JBA's. my own opinion from my own observations.
Outside of that specific scenario, these tires have so far been fantastic. Looking forward to some Winter wheeling in the next few weeks ill be doing up in maine.
Attachments
Last edited:
nice looking rig man! Reminds me of my 3rd iteration on my silver 03 before I went nuts with the taco swap lol.
With regards to rubbing on the firewall comment, I can confirm this 100% with 35's, pretty much regardless of the wheel backspacing/spacer combination. I have cut and beat the pinch weld seam in that area as far as I can without taking a 20lb sledge hammer to it, and about mid-way through the turning radius once the wheel starts cycling up it rubs.
There is also a slight rubbing I have seen on the actual frame rail, but it is very minor and only at full lock.
I'm considering tubbing the firewall to get full clearance on the 35's, but going a bit more aggressive so that I can be setup to run 37's later.
Another area to consider if anyone does any actual rock crawling that cycles the rear suspension fully is the pinch weld in the rear. It will also need to some hammer time/grinder attention to make sure you're not tearing up the tire at full bump.
Here is my recent round of trimming I had to do to fully clear the rear at full stuff. I was having some door flare rubbing issues, as well as rubbing on the rear coastal offroad bumper, so I decided to chop off about 1.5 inches from it.
The next point of interference was the pinch weld area just behind where the bumper was cut. I went a lot more aggressive than I needed to, but I have plans to mock up 37's on this thing later down the road. This cutting allowed me to push the axle back another .75"-1" and clear the front door flare without having to trim it.
The next point of interference was the pinch weld area just behind where the bumper was cut. I went a lot more aggressive than I needed to, but I have plans to mock up 37's on this thing later down the road. This cutting allowed me to push the axle back another .75"-1" and clear the front door flare without having to trim it.
Last edited:
Billynath1988
Senior Member
With the 255/85/17 I manage to avoid to the frame rub, but everything else you said.... yes. lol
35s look great, they go down the road fine. If you want to wheel it hard without insane cutting or modding, id stay with a 34 or under. just my opinion.
35s look great, they go down the road fine. If you want to wheel it hard without insane cutting or modding, id stay with a 34 or under. just my opinion.
Agreed 100%
Without heavy grinder and hammer time, a 34" tire with a 3" suspension lift/1-2" body lift will yield the most useable setup for a fully articulating suspension on these rigs
Plenty of guys run 35's, and a lot will tell you how easy it is to fit. And while that is a fairly true statement, it usually falls into 2 categories: 1) it's easy because they only see street time and the suspension never cycles to the extreme and they have no idea how bad the rubbing gets, or 2) it's easy because you're like me and a little beating and cutting is the easier side of building a rig like this lol.
My eventual goal is 37's, and I know I can make them work in the rear with very slight additional modification, but the front is a whole different ball game, and even if I end up tubbing the firewall to clear the turn radius at full stuff there, I will still be facing up-travel limitations on the factory fender apron and against the frame rail.. LT in the front is probably the only way to go to functionally run 37's without giving up travel, but I'm still not sold on the idea of spending all that money on a decent LT kit for the front vs just chopping everything off and doing an SAS...
Last edited:
Billynath1988
Senior Member
your truck is insane man, and alot of mods on there are inspiring. For sure going to need LT to run 37s.. imo I think it starts taking away from what this truck is and turning it into a Truggy at that point, especially if you go the SAS route, Which is awesome if that's what you want.. but I like to retain the long road trip drivability.. I can still cruise at 80+ for 6 hours with a loaded-out truck in comfort without effort.. as long as I dont mind 12mpg lol.
My more frequent trips to off road parks has slowed down these days with everything getting stupid expensive so I decided to to make that leap to 35s. With the oem gears and the v8 its still doable, but it definitely starts to notice it.
Similar threads
