3D printed outlet cover - Convert rear ashtray to 12V/USB outlets

[marcus clarkus]

I wanted to add some some outlets to the rear passenger area and the rear ashtray seemed like a good spot. Here are some shots of the final product:

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UPDATE 1-3-2019: Due to popular demand, I set up an online store to sell these parts.
Check it out here: [url]https://www.shapeways.com/shops/better-than-new[/URL]

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I took some measurements, made a model in Solidworks, tinkered with the design of the snaps (here's an excellent design guideline), and then had some parts 3D printed using SLS.

SLS = Selective Laser Sintering (here's a video explaining the SLS process)

Basically, a laser sinters together lots of nylon particles to form a solid part. The end result is a solid, durable, nylon part with a slightly rough texture. You can sand it smooth or leave it rough. Spray paint adheres to SLS parts extremely well.

Designs available:


(click on image to enlarge)

“One hole design”
Link to purchase
- One hole, 28.5mm diameter (approx 1 ⅛”)

“Two hole design”
Link to purchase
- Two holes, both 28.5mm diameter (approx 1 ⅛”)

“No hole design”
Link to purchase
- It’s just a flat plate, so you can cut whatever shape hole you want in it to mount USB outlets, 12v power, switches, or whatever else you come up with.

Notes

All parts will ship unpainted (white) so you can spray paint it yourself. I sanded once lightly with 220 grit, then sprayed with two coats of Tamiya semi-gloss black paint.

It’s your responsibility to ensure that you have enough depth behind the outlet cover to hold whatever you’re trying to mount. I suggest removing your ashtray and making a cardboard mock-up to check.


Ordering

Available on my Shapeways online store here:
https://www.shapeways.com/shops/better-than-new

-Mark

 

[marcus clarkus]

Installation Tips

I don’t have an official write-up at this time on how to install and wire everything, but it’s really not that hard. Remove the whole console to take out the ashtray and metal backing (this video will show you how to pull everything apart.) You can also just rip/pry the ashtray backing out with pliers and a flathead screwdriver, but you risk scratching the plastic console (as I did). UPDATE: Ifightfire posted some good info/picsin posts 86 and 87 -- there are three metal tabs on the ashtray you can bend to remove it cleanly.

I strongly recommend you test fit everything before doing any wiring or painting. First, check that the cover fits by itself. Then remove the cover and mount the outlets to it, and check that it still fits. Then solder/crimp on any wires and check that it still fits. Finally, you can remove everything, paint the cover, and do the final installation.

BE VERY CAREFUL WHEN REMOVING! YOU NEED TO PUSH THE SNAPS DOWN (TOWARDS THE FLOOR) AND OUTWARDS TO REMOVE THE COVER -- BE GENTLE AND TAKE YOUR TIME!

There is limited space for mounting two 12V/USB outlets. I really had to optimize the design and squeeze everything in place to get them to fit. If you don’t use the exact same 12V/USB outlets as I did, then I can’t guarantee that everything will fit. This is what I used:

Amazon Link - USB/AUX connectors which I wired as inputs to my aftermarket stereo Highly recommended, this outlet is not too deep and requires no soldering or modification.

Amazon Link - 12V Power This is rated for 20A, but I used a 7.5A fuse when I tapped into the factory fuse block with an add-a-fuse. If you actually want this capable of handle 15-20 amps you need to run a dedicated wire from the battery, an aftermarket fuse block, and maybe a relay. Do your research. I used 9 feet of wire to reach from the 12V outlet to the driver side cabin fuse box.

UPDATE: user Ifightfire successfully used this outlet: Amazon Link - 2X USB charger with voltmeter
Check out page 7 for his pictures. He said the fit was tight so he had to solder the wires on instead of using crimps.

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On the 12V power outlet, I had to bend the two leads off to the side to reduce the overall depth to allow it to fit where the ashtray used to be. Also, the little nubs on the outer diameter of the lock ring extended out too far towards the edge and prevented the outlet cover from snapping into place. To fix this, I tightened the lock ring down by hand, marked which nubs to cut off, unscrewed the lockring, then snipped the nubs off with some cutters.

Make sure your wiring connections are somewhat water resistant and be sure to use a fuse on any power outlets you add! If you have a cold drink in the cup holder that is dripping with condensation, then this water will drip right onto the outlets when you close the cup holder!

 

[tx_shooter]

SCORE! I was just talking with my wife about putting some power in that spot last weekend on a trip.

 

[etc.]

Great idea. Sub'd.

 

[ajordan1975]

That's AWESOME! I'm in the Denver area. When can I get one? :rockon:

 

[TrexRunnerGirl]

This is exactly what I need to do! awesome. My kids will thank you.
I'll pm you to hook me up with the parts.
I've never rewired anything so this should be interesting.

 

[marcus clarkus]

That's AWESOME! I'm in the Denver area. When can I get one? :rockon:

Thanks man. I work about 15 min away from Westminster. Which design are you interested in?

This is exactly what I need to do! awesome. My kids will thank you.
I'll pm you to hook me up with the parts.
I've never rewired anything so this should be interesting.

It's not too hard to wire, but you will need basic soldering and/or crimping tools for the 12V outlet. The USB/AUX outlet is super easy if you have a aftermarket stereo with rear USB/AUX inputs (just run the wires and plug them in).

 

[cblock406]

Very cool idea, pretty sure I'll be hitting you up soon for this! Thanks for making it available to everyone on here!

 

[4-Ripcord]

Very nice!

 

[Team_Jake]

What a great idea!

Okay dumb question, if you have an audio cable port for the rear seats, does that mean you cannot have a audio cable port for the front? Is it possible to have multiple audio ports for one stereo unit?

 

[HiLife]

Like it when tr4 members makes stuff like this and makes it available to us.
Thanks for making this!

 

[marcus clarkus]

Whoa those went fast, you guys cleaned me out! I thought I was gonna sell maybe 1 per month lol. I'm going to do an order of some more parts that will arrive in about 1.5 weeks. If you guys want one you can pay me now, or wait for them to get back in stock. Thanks everyone

 

[marcus clarkus]

Ok I placed a new order just so I have some in hand for future orders. I ordered:
No hole (qty: 3)
Single hole (qty: 4)
Double hole (qty: 6)

I hope I bought enough...

What a great idea!

Okay dumb question, if you have an audio cable port for the rear seats, does that mean you cannot have a audio cable port for the front? Is it possible to have multiple audio ports for one stereo unit?

Not a dumb question -- it depends a lot on the stereo design. Some have only front USB and/or AUX inputs, some have both front and rear inputs, some have multiple inputs on rear only...

Mine only has rear input ports: two USB inputs and 1 AUX input. So I have one USB cord running from the rear of the stereo into the glovebox, for use with my phone running Android Auto. The other USB input and the AUX input will be connected to the rear passenger outlets, so they can play music or charge their device.

edit: I think I read your question wrong... You might be able to use some sort of splitter to connect two aux inputs to one source. Then you could have a switch so you can select between the two sources.

 

[Jayjayb96]

I remember seeing a thread about this and asking the member to make these so i can order one. Was it by chance you, OP? Anyways when its available i want one!! Too bad it sold out so quick but great idea none the less

 

[atcpup]

PM sent for order of two outlet design. Gifted money so you wouldn't incur fees!

 

[ajordan1975]

Thanks man. I work about 15 min away from Westminster. Which design are you interested in?

I'd like the single hole.

 

[phattyduck]

a clean-looking Scangauge mount, SR5 mudflaps, and more….

-Mark

I think you'll have a lot of people interested in those items too!

-Charlie

 

[CdaleR4000si]

Great looking product! I am always so impressed when I see some of the stuff that gets designed/created by the members on this site.

I can't wait to see what you come up with for the SR5 mud flaps, those should sell like mad! I may have to buy a set to have as a back up for mine.

 

[marcus clarkus]

I remember seeing a thread about this and asking the member to make these so i can order one. Was it by chance you, OP? Anyways when its available i want one!! Too bad it sold out so quick but great idea none the less

Nope that wasn't me. Funny enough, I came up with this idea on my own but went to post this in the "What did you do to your 3rd gen today?" thread [MENTION=148218]JZiggy[/MENTION] beat me by a day
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/104161-what-did-you-do-your-3rd-gen-today-1520.html#post2801141

PM sent for order of two outlet design. Gifted money so you wouldn't incur fees!

Thank you!

I'd like the single hole.

Cool, I placed an order and added your name to the list I'm keeping. I'll hit you up when they're in stock and we can meet up.

http://i0.kym-cdn.com/entries/icons/mobile/000/005/574/takemymoney.jpg[IMG]

I think you'll have a lot of people interested in those items too!

-Charlie[/QUOTE]

LOL @ that pic !!

I'm working on it though! No progress on the scangauge mount (I still need to buy one), but I'm getting close to having a mudflap design. I bought a right side mud flap for $40 (those are in stock at Toyota dealers, it's the left side that's sold out/ discontinued) and tried 3D scanning it at work, but our 3D scanner is a POS. I found a local company to scan it but that set me back $150.... sometimes I'm impulsive I guess.
Anyway, I cleaned up the 3D scan file, mirrored it (to create the elusive left mudflap) and submitted quotes to have it made with SLS. All the quotes came back between $350-$2000 per mudflap. :censored: :censored:
It was also too big to print on the Makerbot at work, so I copied what Dfarms did with his mudflaps and cut off the "flap" portion and smoothed out the shape. I'll print it on the Makerbot this weekend and see how it comes out, but I imagine it will need 1-2 more iterations before it's done.

3D scan (full size mudflap)
[img]https://i.imgur.com/OWz7L0fl.png

Reduced size (modified design I made in CAD)

 

[CdaleR4000si]

I'm working on it though! No progress on the scangauge mount (I still need to buy one), but I'm getting close to having a mudflap design. I bought a right side mud flap for $40 (those are in stock at Toyota dealers, it's the left side that's sold out/ discontinued) and tried 3D scanning it at work, but our 3D scanner is a POS. I found a local company to scan it but that set me back $150.... sometimes I'm impulsive I guess.
Anyway, I cleaned up the 3D scan file, mirrored it (to create the elusive left mudflap) and submitted quotes to have it made with SLS. All the quotes came back between $350-$2000 per mudflap.
It was also too big to print on the Makerbot at work, so I copied what Dfarms did with his mudflaps and cut off the "flap" portion and smoothed out the shape. I'll print it on the Makerbot this weekend and see how it comes out, but I imagine it will need 1-2 more iterations before it's done.

Back in 2013, I went to to Print13, which was a trade show for the printing industry. I spoke to every one of the 3D companies (there were not many of them back then) about this very thing, the mud flaps. Every single one of them told me that the size was going to be limited to around 8" for quite a while, unless I wanted to spend really big bucks on it. That was in 2013, I'm sorry to hear that not much has changed in 4 years.