3rd gen 01 - 35's no lift

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You'll be literally in the fenders on stock suspension. Your 01 has some of the shortest springs. I'd recommend going at least 2.5" suspension. You'll have to cut or pound the bejesus out of the firewall, chop up the fender liners, remove your washer fluid bottle and trim back bumper and the front fender mounts at a bare minimum. You'll also need spacers or aftermarket wheels to clear the UCA's with the sidewall.
 
I'd say 3" is required for 35's.
Like [MENTION=90352]UnderFire[/MENTION] said- you'll need to pound the firewall to not rub the firewall- even with a 3" lift- if you ever intend to go off-road.
Most guys with 35's have a 3"+ suspension lift, as well as a 1"+ body lift.
I have the lowest offset wheels possible(tires rub upper control arms when droop or turning), and I still need to tub my firewall to clear off-road. The lowest offset wheels possible gives you the most clearance, as well as keeping bump steer to an absolute minimum. Running spacers will make you rub fenders and firewall much worse.
My wheels are 17x9, et0, 5" backspace.
I would say an 8" wide wheel- with a backspace of 4-4.5" MAX- would give you the least amount of body interference.

My 35" BFG K02 All Terrain tires are pretty stuffed with a 3" lift. No body lift. Yet.
b77a48463887569d6b8d707a7e5ed19e.jpg
 
I would do a 2" body lift, and a 2" or 2.5" suspension lift. The body lift will help keep center of gravity lower yet still give room for bigger tires. If your doing mild wheeling and mostly Street driving, I would install 2" or 2.5" lift spacers out back, and bilsteins adjustable struts up front with them adjusted to give u 2" or so lift with stock coils and see where your at. If need be u can run a little taller coils like the 99 stock 4runner coils, they are a little taller. Should cost u about 500 in parts. Labor depends on where u have it installed. Roger brown makes great body lift kits.
 
I would do a 2" body lift, and a 2" or 2.5" suspension lift. The body lift will help keep center of gravity lower yet still give room for bigger tires. If your doing mild wheeling and mostly Street driving, I would install 2" or 2.5" lift spacers out back, and bilsteins adjustable struts up front with them adjusted to give u 2" or so lift with stock coils and see where your at. If need be u can run a little taller coils like the 99 stock 4runner coils, they are a little taller. Should cost u about 500 in parts. Labor depends on where u have it installed. Roger brown makes great body lift kits.

Too tall. I'm running at about 2" front 2.5" rear suspension and 1" body. 315's clear by a mile with liberal clearancing. The 35x13.5 Toyos on wide offset wheels barely rub unless I really jam into something hard at the perfect angle (Damn pinch weld....)
 
I'd say 3" is required for 35's.
Like [MENTION=90352]UnderFire[/MENTION] said- you'll need to pound the firewall to not rub the firewall- even with a 3" lift- if you ever intend to go off-road.
Most guys with 35's have a 3"+ suspension lift, as well as a 1"+ body lift.
I have the lowest offset wheels possible(tires rub upper control arms when droop or turning), and I still need to tub my firewall to clear off-road. The lowest offset wheels possible gives you the most clearance, as well as keeping bump steer to an absolute minimum. Running spacers will make you rub fenders and firewall much worse.
My wheels are 17x9, et0, 5" backspace.
I would say an 8" wide wheel- with a backspace of 4-4.5" MAX- would give you the least amount of body interference.

My 35" BFG K02 All Terrain tires are pretty stuffed with a 3" lift. No body lift. Yet.
b77a48463887569d6b8d707a7e5ed19e.jpg

Looks mean though! Definitely tight even with a 3inch lift.
 
Too tall. I'm running at about 2" front 2.5" rear suspension and 1" body. 315's clear by a mile with liberal clearancing. The 35x13.5 Toyos on wide offset wheels barely rub unless I really jam into something hard at the perfect angle (Damn pinch weld....)

Well if that's the case which is a matter of opinion I think, with a 2" body lift u have the option of lowering the suspension to just 1.5" lift if u want which would give even better center of gravity. Keep in mind the op said it's a 01, so they sit lower.
 
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By doing this you are signing yourself up for a lot more wear and maintenance and failures of your suspension components. I decided against a suspension lift and will just get a body lift to run 32". Good enough for me.
 
Does anyone have a photo of their 4Runner, only running all terrain 35's with no lift? How's the ride? Height?

Here you go :tea: stock suspension and no body lift and no rubbing.


It is a common misconception that a lift is required to run a certain size tire. Because of the type of suspension we have, no matter how much suspension lift you add it will still go through the same arc. So either stiffer springs are used to keep the tires out of the finderwells or lowering bumpstops (in the rear) are used. This is great if your only going to the mall. To truly make any tire work the only way to do that is to move the body away from said tire, either through body lift (personally apposed to) or clearancing. I used the trails less traveled method of clearancing. It takes some work but it can be done in a couple of hours of work. Here is an explanation of what I did.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/82171-smokey-build-4.html#post716836

All that said. There are also real reasons for a suspension lift including ground clearance, break over angle, compression wheel travel etc.
 
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Well thank you guys! Now that you all broke it down, that seems like the stupidest question ever and I should probably stay off these forums :) I obviously don't want to get into as much trouble as cutting stuff and removing things as mentioned. I guess if my plans are too only "go to the mall" ;) like [MENTION=53470]Rockdawg84[/MENTION] said, clearly I don't think putting in all this work would make sense or be beneficial other than the fact it would look tough. There's a lot of good information which changes my minds on 35's... essentially I'd just like to make it a hair taller than stock suspension but I don't want it to look stupid like a lot of those trucks do driving down the freeway with tiny tires. Is it even possible to make it a hair taller without all the cutting and suspension swapping and coils being too short?
 
By doing this you are signing yourself up for a lot more wear and maintenance and failures of your suspension components. I decided against a suspension lift and will just get a body lift to run 32". Good enough for me.

That sounds like a much simpler approach for what I'm wanting.
 
I'd run a small spacer lift before messing with the body lift. You'll have to adjust bumpers or make fillers if you go the BL route. Spacer lift could be installed in an afternoon. Before you decide, I'd recommend reading this:

Lift FAQ

If it was me and I was going for looks? 2 inch spacer and 32's, probably Duratrac's.
 
Well thank you guys! Now that you all broke it down, that seems like the stupidest question ever and I should probably stay off these forums :) I obviously don't want to get into as much trouble as cutting stuff and removing things as mentioned. I guess if my plans are too only "go to the mall" ;) like [MENTION=53470]Rockdawg84[/MENTION] said, clearly I don't think putting in all this work would make sense or be beneficial other than the fact it would look tough. There's a lot of good information which changes my minds on 35's... essentially I'd just like to make it a hair taller than stock suspension but I don't want it to look stupid like a lot of those trucks do driving down the freeway with tiny tires. Is it even possible to make it a hair taller without all the cutting and suspension swapping and coils being too short?

While I agree 100% with Rockdawg.....the method he and I advocate is beyond most people's ability or tool set. And finding anyone willing to do this level of modification for you is difficult at best unless you happen to be friends with them since most patrons are going to freak when you start cutting a hole in their firewall and floor board and catch the interior on fire (perfectly normal) when welding it back together....and then there's the paint issue or cutting the outer fender.....a lot of that is personal taste and what's acceptable to one person may look hacked to another.
 
Here you go :tea: stock suspension and no body lift and no rubbing.


It is a common misconception that a lift is required to run a certain size tire. Because of the type of suspension we have, no matter how much suspension lift you add it will still go through the same arc. So either stiffer springs are used to keep the tires out of the finderwells or lowering bumpstops (in the rear) are used. This is great if your only going to the mall. To truly make any tire work the only way to do that is to move the body away from said tire, either through body lift (personally apposed to) or clearancing. I used the trails less traveled method of clearancing. It takes some work but it can be done in a couple of hours of work. Here is an explanation of what I did.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/82171-smokey-build-4.html#post716836

All that said. There are also real reasons for a suspension lift including ground clearance, break over angle, compression wheel travel etc.


BTW....that looks GREAT! :)
 
"Now that you all broke it down, that seems like the stupidest question ever and I should probably stay off these forums "

No. You should definitely be ON this forum. Best info on the T4R is on T4R.org

Lots of good and smart guys here. Lot of good info in the FAQ section. Search and ask.
 
Well thank you guys! Now that you all broke it down, that seems like the stupidest question ever and I should probably stay off these forums :) I obviously don't want to get into as much trouble as cutting stuff and removing things as mentioned. I guess if my plans are too only "go to the mall" ;) like [MENTION=53470]Rockdawg84[/MENTION] said, clearly I don't think putting in all this work would make sense or be beneficial other than the fact it would look tough. There's a lot of good information which changes my minds on 35's... essentially I'd just like to make it a hair taller than stock suspension but I don't want it to look stupid like a lot of those trucks do driving down the freeway with tiny tires. Is it even possible to make it a hair taller without all the cutting and suspension swapping and coils being too short?

Not stupid at all and it is a question that is asked frequently. With a combination of a small body lift and a small suspension lift you will be able to run 33's with very little rubbing and will be very capable of fun off road and it will look great. Keep asking questions and reading you will learn a lot here. And as [MENTION=144462]Sean K.[/MENTION] said my method is really for those who want to get the most out of their 4runner off road, which often accompanies body damage, it is not for everyone. Post a pic of your runner, you have chosen a great platform to build on.
 
Hey Sam,

Quick question for ya.....


I'm going to put 37" PBRs on my '99. I'm planning on moving the axle forward 3-4". Do you think I'm going to need to trim the pinch weld with it moved forward?

You know anyone in your area that's done a similar SFA conversion and if they needed to tub the front firewall/pinch weld?
 

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