3rd Gen 4Runner Buyer's Guide

[4-Ripcord]

"Almost like new tires about 60/65%"

Thats like saying this half eaten sandwich is untouched.

 

[shalverson]

yikes

 

[shalverson]

gorgeous

 

[willbgood]

Thank you for sharing a wealth of knowledge in a clear and concise manner.

Excellent!

 

[4OYOTER]

Just sold my 2nd gen Access Cab Tacoma after coming to the realization that it's going to be along time until my 2 month old daughter can ride along safely. (her rear facing car seat will only fit in the front seat) Mama bear has a 5th gen 4runner that will be my daughter's main transport vehicle, but I need something more practical for when she rides with me.

I had a terrible experience with a 2nd gen 3.0 auto T4R a few years back, but I've heard 3rd gens are much better.

I'm going to look at this 3rd gen on Saturday. The owner seems very knowledgeable. Anything big I should pay attention to other than lower ball joints and rust? Does $4500 seem a reasonable starting point with the high mileage (239k)? Any characteristics of the clutch feel I should Look for?

1999 4runner 4wd

Thanks for any help.

 

[arsd8]

2001 toyota 4runner sport 4x4

Hey everyone,

I'm looking for a t4r as my dd, and came across this one. Can you let me know what you think? They mentioned they fixed the mixing issue from the cooling system, but is that already a disqualifier? Let me know what yout think. Thank you a lot for your help.

2001 TOYOTA 4RUNNER SPORT 4X4

 

[4-Ripcord]

Hey everyone,

I'm looking for a t4r as my dd, and came across this one. Can you let me know what you think? They mentioned they fixed the mixing issue from the cooling system, but is that already a disqualifier? Let me know what yout think. Thank you a lot for your help.

2001 TOYOTA 4RUNNER SPORT 4X4

I received a PM from a member recently with a different vehicle in the same situation. The milkshake had occurred and the transmission was rebuilt and radiator replaced.

I will tell you the same thing I told him, look into the transmission rebuild. If it was a reputable shop that did a complete rebuild with lots of new parts then you are probably fine. If it was not a total rebuild and more of just cleaning it out and putting it back together then you will have problems down the road.

One other note, when a seller in the Mid west says "No rust", that is not the same thing as a seller in the southwest saying "no rust". Still request to see what the underside looks like, people in the mid west have an incorrect perception of what the term "no rust" means.

 

[arsd8]

I received a PM from a member recently with a different vehicle in the same situation. The milkshake had occurred and the transmission was rebuilt and radiator replaced.

I will tell you the same thing I told him, look into the transmission rebuild. If it was a reputable shop that did a complete rebuild with lots of new parts then you are probably fine. If it was not a total rebuild and more of just cleaning it out and putting it back together then you will have problems down the road.

One other note, when a seller in the Mid west says "No rust", that is not the same thing as a seller in the southwest saying "no rust". Still request to see what the underside looks like, people in the mid west have an incorrect perception of what the term "no rust" means.

He said "It was a complete rebuild including torque converter done by advance transmission in Lancaster PA"

Does that sounds adequate? When I go look at it, what are the main things I should be looking at. He said no rust which is good. at 172k miles, what are going to be the most likely problems? Thanks again

 

[4-Ripcord]

He said "It was a complete rebuild including torque converter done by advance transmission in Lancaster PA"

Does that sounds adequate? When I go look at it, what are the main things I should be looking at. He said no rust which is good. at 172k miles, what are going to be the most likely problems? Thanks again

The main thing to look for is page 1 of this thread...

 

[4runnering]

3rd gen compatibility

This post was very helpful but I still have a few questions.
I just wrecked my '00 4runner v6 SR5 automatic 2wd and am considering buying a '97 v6 4wd (not sure what trim). What from the '00 will/won't fit on the '97?

Fortunately enough for me I smashed the "fat-lip-bumper" on the '00 so I don't have to worry about it not fitting:/

The previous owner of the 97 says:

1. the brakes on the front wheels are locked . Are the brakes (both front and rear) the same on the 2 yrs?

2. The vehicle been sitting for along time and the battery is dead. They tried to jump start it and only got the clicking sounds. I suspect starter and possibly alternator. Are those the same on the aforementioned years?

3. Since it's been sitting for so long I'm guessing fuel injectors need to be cleaned/replaced. are those...years?

4. Is the back bumper the same?

Since both have a 3.4 in it I'm assuming most of the sensors, filters (just replaced all the filters on the 00 before wrecking it and I'm poor), electrical components, and intake are the same. What else is compatible or potentially an upgrade for the '00 to '97?

4runner 2000-2015 - 345,000 miles
Rest In Pieces


Thanks again in advance

 

[Chuckles89]

1. the brakes on the front wheels are locked . Are the brakes (both front and rear) the same on the 2 yrs?

They are the same as long as both have 16" wheels or both have 15" wheels.

2. The vehicle been sitting for along time and the battery is dead. They tried to jump start it and only got the clicking sounds. I suspect starter and possibly alternator. Are those the same on the aforementioned years?

Same

3. Since it's been sitting for so long I'm guessing fuel injectors need to be cleaned/replaced. are those...years

Should be the same

4. Is the back bumper the same?

Same

 

[4runnering]

Thanks

Thanks

 

[natharward]

should I buy this?? 2000 SR5 4x4 5-sp

Per the very beginning of the buyer's guide (which is AWESOME and been super helpful): "If you find a promising 4runner, post it up so we can dissect it" <--that's what I'm doing. First-time 4runner buyer here. Have read a ton of posts on here and would love y'alls input.

Here's what I'm looking at:
http://www.ksl.com/auto/listing/2602992?ad_cid=2

:: Details ::

2000 SR5
4x4
5-speed manual
130k miles
Asking price: $7,500

Carfax shows 5 minor accidents, title is still clean - no major frame damage, etc. 5 owners. First was corporate, 3 held for about a year each and the 5th had the balance of the time. Carfax says it's worth $1300 less than book value.

NADA book with options is $7025, so with Carfax suggested adjustment = $5725.

I took it by a shop and they said car needs:

• O2 sensor (per check engine light)
• rear wheel cylinders
• center sway bar bushings

All in all, about $700

Drives solid. No shakes at speed, except a tiny bit of wobble in the steering wheel over 70mph, but think that's tire alignment. Mechanic at shop checked all the wheels and said nothing is loose, all joints are good.

Tires have about 30k miles left in them.

The undercarriage has surface rust throughout, but shop said none of it looked to compromise strength of frame. Most of car's life was in Ohio or Michigan. It's now in Utah. Some of the pulleys in the engine had surface rust too. Only rust on the body is a little section under the passenger-side headlight.

What do y'all think, what would you offer for it?

:thanks:

 

[4-Ripcord]

First of all, NADA and Blue Book are useless for cars older than about 5-8 years. So don't go treating those like a holy document. They do not account for vehicles that are sought after by enthusiasts and ones with certain rare features (ie manual trans). They also don't reflect the impact of rust to resale value very well.

I took it by a shop and they said car needs:

• O2 sensor (per check engine light)
• rear wheel cylinders
• center sway bar bushings

All in all, about $700

*$95 part
*2x $15 parts
*$25 part
Maybe an hour labor for the lot of it... the first 2 are the only ones I would even do. Certainly doesnt add up to even half of that quoted value. Get a shop that won't rip you off.

The undercarriage has surface rust throughout, but shop said none of it looked to compromise strength of frame. Most of car's life was in Ohio or Michigan. It's now in Utah. Some of the pulleys in the engine had surface rust too. Only rust on the body is a little section under the passenger-side headlight.

Being in Ohio, I would never buy a vehicle from here. I've seen too many 2-3 year old cars with holes rusted through body panels..


The manual would bring the price up, but that rust brings it right back down. In this case the carfax value isnt far off. IF you still want it, offer what carfax says. Do not pay a cent over 6.2k if you do go forward.

This is all my opinion of course.

 

[natharward]

thank you! very helpful

@ ripcord, super helpful, especially on all the parts info and laying out usefulness/non-usefulness of NADA+KBB. :first:

Happy Holidays

 

[964Runner3rdgen]

Hauler

Transfer Case differences:
The 4wd t-cases in the 3rd gen 4runners varied through the years and trim models as well. ALL 4runners are 2wd vehicles (rear wheel drive) until some form of 4wd is engaged.


-Let’s start with base, SR5, and Highlander trim models. The transfer case remained the same for these models from 1996 to 2000. It was a basic J-shaped shifting configuration. This transfer case was purely mechanical, no push button components.

-The limited 4runners had a little bit different setup though. From 1996-1998, Toyota used a push button on the shifter to engage 4Hi from 2wd. The only time you actually need to shift the transfer case is to go into 4Lo.

-In ’99-’00, the limited upgraded from a standard transfer case with push button, over to a differential type transfer case (known as Multi-Mode). This type of transfer case still has a push button to engage 4wd from 2wd. A differential type t-case is different from a standard t-case in that the front and rear drive shafts could rotate independent of each other and avoid binding on high traction surfaces. Until this center differential was locked, the vehicle is essentially in all wheel drive (discussed more below).
To lock the T-case, you simply shift from 4Hi to 4Hi(L).

-In 2001 and 2002, all models gained these Multi-Mode transfer cases (including limited, now they all have the same system). But, the locking method changed from a separate shifting position to a separate push button on the dash.


http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...rs-3rd-gens-transfer-case-awd-multi-mode.html
I HIGHLY encourage you to read this thread skillfully written by Brian2sun. It is more in depth and contains information such as recommended speeds, shifting configurations, Pictures, Uses, and more differences.
The information above is a summary of the information in his thread.



===============================================




Rear diff E-locker vs. Center diff locker:


Rear E-locker
-On all 1996-2000 4Runners, there was an option to add an electronic locking rear differential. It was never standard on any trim package, just an option. The e-locker was discontinued after 2000 and was not offered again on the 4runner until 2009 (trail edition). FJ cruisers and Tacomas also had e-lockers (TRD off-road package). If you are unable to find a 4runner with one, they can be swapped in to any 4runner from '96-'02. Most elocker retrofits cost an average of $500.

What is it?
Lockers are actuators that are fit inside the differentials of vehicles' axles. When the rear e-locker is engaged, the rear axle is locked together and both rear wheels must always spin at the same speed. A locked axle must NEVER be used on road. When the e-locker is disengaged, the axle again operates as an 'open' diff. This rear e-locker is helpful in very low traction off road situations, when an ‘open’ diff is hindering progress by allowing one of the wheels on an axle to spin while the other wheel that actually has traction receives no power.

Factory settings only allow the e-locker to be engaged if the vehicle is already in 4Lo. There is a modification known as the "Gray wire mod" that can be done to allow it to be activated at any time, but before you do that be sure you are aware of why Toyota set it up that way.. The e-locker is supposed to only be used when even 4Lo is not enough. For 99% of drivers out there, they will never even see a time when 4Lo is not enough.

The button to engage the e-locker is found on the dash to the left of the steering wheel. It says "RR Diff Lock" in orange print.
View attachment 41911


To better understand diffs and lockers, watch this video.



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Center diff locker/ Multi-Mode AWD
A Center differential is a special type of transfer case that can be unlocked/locked. But as we just covered, only ’01-’02 4runners and ’99-’00 limited 4runners had this Multi-mode ability to unlock/lock the center diff.

As discussed earlier, AWD (all wheel drive) is when the front and rear drive-shafts leaving the transfer-case can rotate independent of each other. AWD (center diff unlocked/open) is the only safe way to deliver power to all four wheels on high traction surfaces such as paved roads. Think of this as another "open" Diff, but instead of wheels at the end of these drive-shafts (axles), there is just the front or rear diff & axles. AWD is meant for ice covered roads where "true 4x4" should still not be used. True 4x4 is where the center diff is locked like a regular transfer-case always is. With this transfer case locked, both front and rear drive-shafts must spin at the same speed. Having the center diff locked is bad for on road use becuase when you corner, the front wheels make a larger diameter turn than the rear wheels And that means the rear drive-shaft needs to spin at a different speed to keep pace with the front.. which it cant if the transfer-case is locked.

-On 1999-2000 Limiteds, the locking method was a separate shifting position.
-On all the 2001 & 2002 models, the button to lock/unlock the center diff replaced the button for the discontinued e-locker:
View attachment 41912

In terms of off road ability, the unlock/lock feature on the Multi-Mode t-case does not add anything. It only helps sketchy on road conditions. The rear e-locker is the only option above normal 4wd that actually increases off road ability.



How do I choose between these?

-If you live in an area with ice covered winter roads, heavy rain, and you tend to be more of a city driver, the Multi-mode selectable AWD is going to be indispensable to you. It makes icy roads easy to tackle.

-If you tend to do more off-roading and plan to modify the 4runner for a trails vehicle, the rear e-locker is going to help you a lot with that goal.

-The '99-'00 limited 4runner had both of these if you can find one with the e-locker option.



===========================================



TRAC/VSC:

To replace the E-locker that was discontinued after 2000, Toyota equipped ALL 2001 & 2002 4Runners with a few electronic systems in it's place. TRAC (traction control) & VSC (vehicle stability control).
Basically, these systems use the brakes to control vehicle stability and traction. While the normal everyday driver will not notice these systems in operation, owners who drive their vehicles in a "spirited" manner will notice interference from these systems. In low-traction road conditions (dirt roads, wet pavement, etc..), drivers may easily cause either of these systems to interfere in attempt to control the vehicle in the event of loss of traction.


Disabling TRAC/VSC:
With a few small exceptions, these systems were not able to be disabled from the factory. Many owners choose to make it possible to manually disable these systems.

-2wd 4Runners came with a factory switch to disable TRAC & VSC.

-On 4wd's, VSC is disabled when the vehicle is in 4x4 with the center differential locked. TRAC still remains on in this situation. This is the ideal setup for most off road situations, as TRAC helps in most situations by acting as a limited slip differential for all 4 wheels. Situations where it is best to also be without TRAC would include deep sand and mud

-Members on Yotatech(.com) discovered a way to add a switch to be able to turn off both TRAC & VSC at any time. Known as the Andymod 2.0.




==========================================



5-Speed manual transmission:

The 3rd gen 4runner was also available with a 5-speed manual transmission. The 5-speed is often preferred for its off road uses, increased fuel economy, and the lack of the Strawberry milkshake issue.

Similar to the E-locker and 4cyl engine, the 5-speed was discontinued after 2000. Also, the 5-speed was NEVER available on the Limited 4Runner.

View attachment 41913
Photo courtesy of JohnsD90.




==========================================


View attachment 66687


==========================================



4-Cylinder - 3RZ-FE:

The 3rd gen 4runner was also available with a 4 Cylinder engine. The 3RZ-FE is often compared to the 3.4L V6 in most other 3rd gens.

The advantages to the this engine are that it has a timing chain vs. a Timing belt in the V6. So that's one less thing to have to maintain. The 4cyl also gets slightly better Mpgs, I'm talking like 2-3mpg increase over the v6. As far as reliability, both of these engines are extremely solid pieces of machinery. Both are known to last beyond 300k+ miles without problems. But becuase of the timing chain, the reliability award goes to the 4cyl.

The Disadvantages, however, are obvious. This engine is a snail.. the 3.4 is known to be a slow engine, so imagine how the 4cyl feels. Also, the 4cyl is only available on the base model 4runners, so if you plan on getting a higher-up trim model, its a no-go on the 4Cyl. And don't ever plan on towing anything significant. While it's an excellent engine, it just doesn't have the power to keep up.

Similar to the E-locker and 5-speed trans, the 4-cyl was discontinued after 2000.

Photo courtesy of ChildrenOfBodom.





============================================================


============================================================

I still have my folks 4Runner they bought new in 96 with the 3RZ motor...It is gutless if you compare it to the 5.7 L iForce Tundra motor (Which is an animal) but we still used it to Haul a double axle horse trailer with 2 horses. Not sure she will do it anymore but I am stoked on this thing!

 

[jrm]

Up for scrutiny 98 sr5/155k

<img src=http://images.craigslist.org/00000_18y54u9mtO3_600x450.jpg>

1998 4runner

bought from Original owner, sold last year and bought back this year. No records so i cant doc maintenance or mileage. I have yet to conduct a carfax. Also noticed no pics of front end...

Details

Selling my 98 4Runner with 155XXX original miles good condition and CLEAN TITLE
V6 auto transmission, 4x4, registration good until October 2016
Power locks and windows, sun roof, tow package.
New front brakes, all in this truck is stock
a/c and heater works perfect, radio and CD player
Smog check done
Text for any question
If the add is on the truck still for sale
$4800 OBO

 

[arsd8]

What's the most amount of miles you would be willing to bite on for a well kept '01?

 

[MN4runnerman]

What's the most amount of miles you would be willing to bite on for a well kept '01?

160k but it would have to be really clean.

 

[natharward]

did you get it, @jrm? looks solid