3rd gen Lift opinion

[abrosk927]

Just wanted to get your opinion guys, i want to lift my 97 sr5 and have all the parts lined up on toytec...i have toytec springs and bilstein shock that match...i talked to them and made sure it'd all work...also got a diff drop kit

just wondering with 3" of lift what else will need to be done at the time of the install...i.e. brake lines...bushings...UCA's

If i need UCA's what do you guys recommend, i dont want to spend a fortune
cheapest i found was 450 on toytec

I AM VERY OPEN TO BUYING USED PARTS

 

[TheArkMaster]

You're also going to need an adjustable panhard, (not necessary but i strongly recommend doing to anyways.) extended brake lines, UCAs eventually bot not immediately necessary. Get light racing UCAS when you do.

 

[lowlinkin]

I just finished my lift the only thing i would recomend is the drop pan hard bar bracket. The other stuff is good to have but not necessary. If your working on a budget you can get away without buying anything else but the lift until you get some more cash. Just my 2cents.

 

[afg10000]

Also you'll probably have to re-boot your CV's or but new ones. The boots will probably fail after they've been moved from their happy home.

 

[abrosk927]

You're also going to need an adjustable panhard, (not necessary but i strongly recommend doing to anyways.) extended brake lines, UCAs eventually bot not immediately necessary. Get light racing UCAS when you do.

What does the Panhard do? I found a fully adjustable one on toytec for 200

 

[lowlinkin]

Do some searching the drop bracket for the pan hard bar is better than getting the adjustable one.

 

[afg10000]

What does the Panhard do? I found a fully adjustable one on toytec for 200

The panhard bar controls the side to side sway of the rear axle. When you lift the truck, you are changing the factory geometry thus limiting it's ability to hold the axle correctly. The panhard bar drop bracket will put the bar back to it's stock geometry (provided it's only 3" of lift). I definitely felt a difference driving my rig around after lifting but prior to installing the drop bracket.

 

[white_n_slow]

I've been lifted 3" (a little more in the rear) for a couple years and have not found brake lines or UCAs necessary.

My alignment is not spot-on with basically no caster, but it is liveable. It does not affect tire wear, just makes the steering a little more vague. Aftermarket UCA's would fix that, but not necessary IMO. Some people are able to get more caster out of the factory alignment adjusters, but in my case, 0* is about as good as it gets.

My lift kit came with an adjustable panhard, so I don't really have anything to compare it to other than stock, but I will say this: with an adjustable panhard (longer) the back end does seem to jump around a lot going over expansion joints or bumps at highway speed. I didn't really have this problem with a stock setup, or at least didn't notice as much. So I would assume a panhard drop bracket would be a better setup than what I've got, basically making the panhard sit closer to horizontal, like it was intended from the factory.

As for the brake lines, I don't see any need at all.

:EDIT:

One thing nobody has mentioned yet - if you do not know the age of your lower ball joints, now would be the perfect time to replace them.

 

[Justin727]

Do some searching the drop bracket for the pan hard bar is better than getting the adjustable one.

It's cheaper not better. Read the description on SS website and talk to them personally. BUT either way you can't go wrong with both. Both are tried and trusted.

I bought one mainly because of my spring height in the rear. Still need to adjust it some more. Thank goodness for unlimited time on the alignment machine!

 

[Millerad1651]

I've been running 4" in back and 3" up front for a year, and haven't added anything extra. I've still got the stock brake lines and panhard bar, and it drives straight as an arrow. I did add aftermarket wheels, which pulled them away from the UCAs, but new ones wouldn't necessarily fix that.
Diff drop is debated in all kinds of threads...up to you whether you want to or not. I do need to reboot the CVs though, but I think that'll happen with or without the drop. Jmildoc recently found a company selling adjustable bars, relatively cheap compared to what we've seen...
Speedway Panhard Bar Kit - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop

 

[Justin727]

I've been running 4" in back and 3" up front for a year, and haven't added anything extra. I've still got the stock brake lines and panhard bar, and it drives straight as an arrow.

likewise aside from the panhard. Still stock brake line which does need to be replaced as it is stretched @ full out.

My truck drove straight as an arrow as well but once I got it on to do a 4 wheel alignment the rear was out a few degree's. So for piece of mind on my end is why I did it. The only time I would notice a pull was of course transitioning over the crest of the road. It was pulling slightly harder after going over the crest on the highway. Nothing one probably would care or notice but i did.

A lot of people have done without running the drop bracket or adjustable bar. But with my rig I didn't wanna wing it.

 

[abrosk927]

likewise aside from the panhard. Still stock brake line which does need to be replaced as it is stretched @ full out.

My truck drove straight as an arrow as well but once I got it on to do a 4 wheel alignment the rear was out a few degree's. So for piece of mind on my end is why I did it. The only time I would notice a pull was of course transitioning over the crest of the road. It was pulling slightly harder after going over the crest on the highway. Nothing one probably would care or notice but i did.

A lot of people have done without running the drop bracket or adjustable bar. But with my rig I didn't wanna wing it.

Does it sound reasonable to atleast lift front and rear and add the diff drop...then go from there?

 

[Millerad1651]

Yes, that is perfectly acceptable...Just get an alignment after about 50 miles...that'll allow everything to settle.
Again, you don't even need the diff drop, but if you want to add it, go for it.

 

[Justin727]

Yes, that is perfectly acceptable...Just get an alignment after about 50 miles...that'll allow everything to settle.
Again, you don't even need the diff drop, but if you want to add it, go for it.

Agreed! Just depending on the age of your cv's and boots you may need to replace them soon after as the boots will open up. But for the most part you shouldn't need a diff drop as stated above

 

[abrosk927]

Yes, that is perfectly acceptable...Just get an alignment after about 50 miles...that'll allow everything to settle.
Again, you don't even need the diff drop, but if you want to add it, go for it.

Did you notice any steering vibrations?
Im using toytec superflex in the rear for almost 4 inches but 3 under load and 3 in the front

 

[abrosk927]

I've been lifted 3" (a little more in the rear) for a couple years and have not found brake lines or UCAs necessary.

My alignment is not spot-on with basically no caster, but it is liveable. It does not affect tire wear, just makes the steering a little more vague. Aftermarket UCA's would fix that, but not necessary IMO. Some people are able to get more caster out of the factory alignment adjusters, but in my case, 0* is about as good as it gets.

My lift kit came with an adjustable panhard, so I don't really have anything to compare it to other than stock, but I will say this: with an adjustable panhard (longer) the back end does seem to jump around a lot going over expansion joints or bumps at highway speed. I didn't really have this problem with a stock setup, or at least didn't notice as much. So I would assume a panhard drop bracket would be a better setup than what I've got, basically making the panhard sit closer to horizontal, like it was intended from the factory.

As for the brake lines, I don't see any need at all.

:EDIT:

One thing nobody has mentioned yet - if you do not know the age of your lower ball joints, now would be the perfect time to replace them.

Any aftermarket ball joint or just OE?

 

[Millerad1651]

Did you notice any steering vibrations?
Im using toytec superflex in the rear for almost 4 inches but 3 under load and 3 in the front

No not really. I'm pretty steady up to about 75mph...but then the slight vibes start because of my tires, not the suspension. And I don't usually go that fast anyways.

Quick lane changes have been ok, and bumps in the road are pretty decent...I've never felt like I don't have control.

 

[jmildoc]

I've been running 4" in back and 3" up front for a year, and haven't added anything extra. I've still got the stock brake lines and panhard bar, and it drives straight as an arrow. I did add aftermarket wheels, which pulled them away from the UCAs, but new ones wouldn't necessarily fix that.
Diff drop is debated in all kinds of threads...up to you whether you want to or not. I do need to reboot the CVs though, but I think that'll happen with or without the drop. Jmildoc recently found a company selling adjustable bars, relatively cheap compared to what we've seen...
Speedway Panhard Bar Kit - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop

I will be ordering something be the end of next week to see how this company works out. I will post something I am sure.
I think a panhard bar is on my short list now that I can see one of my tires sticks past my sliders and the other doesnt. Like Adam said, diff drop is personal preference, I have about 3.5'' lift in front and 4.5-5'' in the rear if i remember right, and I havent even changed my rear shocks out. as a matter of fact I still have two diff drops in the tool box for Millerad and I that we havent cared to install.

 

[abrosk927]

I will be ordering something be the end of next week to see how this company works out. I will post something I am sure.
I think a panhard bar is on my short list now that I can see one of my tires sticks past my sliders and the other doesnt. Like Adam said, diff drop is personal preference, I have about 3.5'' lift in front and 4.5-5'' in the rear if i remember right, and I havent even changed my rear shocks out. as a matter of fact I still have two diff drops in the tool box for Millerad and I that we havent cared to install.

Is 400$ a good price for a shop to install a full coil/shock lift?

 

[Millerad1651]

That's about par for the course...does that include an alignment after install? It's really not difficult if you've got basic set of tools and a few hours. You can always have a shop put the coils on the struts, which is about $40-50. Then just put everything on yourself.