3rd gen sliders

The Shrockworks sliders aren't truly bolt-on. There are no usable bolt locations from the factory - the slider install require drilling the frame and the use of 'stick nuts' to bolt them on.

I do have a set of them with treadplates, and they were welded on.

-Charlie

Just to clarify, bolt-on in this case refers to the fact that the sliders can be held to the frame with nuts and bolts, rather than by welds. You certainly do have to drill your own bolt-holes as there are no factory holes, and of course they can also be welded, if that is preferred.
 
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The Shrockworks are angled up at 30 degrees. Very tucked up into the body but nearly useless as a step. I wasn't after more steps - just protection. Naturally, a guy pulled away from the curb without looking and we made contact while my sliders were being still shipped to me. I drove up over him and tore off most of his minivan's plastic nose cone and only got some cladding scrapes and a dent in the front 1/4 panel. Wish I'd had the sliders - would have been golden . He was an older hood-geezer without any insurance (or license?) and we called it a wash. Urban struggle.....

Ironically that's what made me post this. I saw Shrockworks list theirs at 30 degrees and it suddenly clicked with me I've seen a handful of different numbers posted around t4r (10, 15, etc.)
Since nobody else lists theirs I'm assuming the angle is to be determined by the driver? That makes sense to me but what do I know
Thanks for the pic! I was wondering how high 30* would go, that's pretty damn snug. With them that steep you don't notice them binding on the body at all when flexing? Regardless I'll keep it in mind, I'm currently eyeing shrockworks cause I really like the look but I'd really prefer them to be a little less steep so I can have them be a step! Still on the fence over a kickout as well
 
Ironically that's what made me post this. I saw Shrockworks list theirs at 30 degrees and it suddenly clicked with me I've seen a handful of different numbers posted around t4r (10, 15, etc.)
Since nobody else lists theirs I'm assuming the angle is to be determined by the driver? That makes sense to me but what do I know
Thanks for the pic! I was wondering how high 30* would go, that's pretty damn snug. With them that steep you don't notice them binding on the body at all when flexing? Regardless I'll keep it in mind, I'm currently eyeing shrockworks cause I really like the look but I'd really prefer them to be a little less steep so I can have them be a step! Still on the fence over a kickout as well

+30% upsweep is not standard on their sliders, but an option they offer. I've heard you can lift both wheels of the the truck off the ground using a floor jack on the slider - I'll give it a try later this week.
 
+30% upsweep is not standard on their sliders, but an option they offer. I've heard you can lift both wheels of the the truck off the ground using a floor jack on the slider - I'll give it a try later this week.

Oh thank you, did not know that but I see what you're talking about now. I'll try and reach out and see what their other ones are like, though I never got much of a response from them before when contacting them about skids
 
Oh thank you, did not know that but I see what you're talking about now. I'll try and reach out and see what their other ones are like, though I never got much of a response from them before when contacting them about skids

Like many smaller fab operations, they are def better at cutting and welding metal than website updates and basic customer service. That said, the couple of times I called I got the owner(?) on the phone and he was a straight shooter and they arrived before promised. Not trying to push their product at all - I went with them strictly because I needed sliders fast and had no acce$$ to welding. I'm happy with my choice but I think you (or most anyone) would have more options!
 
Like many smaller fab operations, they are def better at cutting and welding metal than website updates and basic customer service. That said, the couple of times I called I got the owner(?) on the phone and he was a straight shooter and they arrived before promised. Not trying to push their product at all - I went with them strictly because I needed sliders fast and had no acce$$ to welding. I'm happy with my choice but I think you (or most anyone) would have more options!

I definitely appreciate all the advice! However in the time since posting I actually stumbled upon 4xI's sliders and I'm almost certain that's what I'll be going with. Can be angled, good kick out, look good, easy canvas for fab work, and very cheap. But still, thank you nonetheless. I hear lots of good things about SW's products, it's a shame their customer service is all but nonexistent - though I think I recall someone saying they're trying to take on more staff to fix that? Can't remember if that was them or not
 
I definitely appreciate all the advice! However in the time since posting I actually stumbled upon 4xI's sliders and I'm almost certain that's what I'll be going with. Can be angled, good kick out, look good, easy canvas for fab work, and very cheap. But still, thank you nonetheless. I hear lots of good things about SW's products, it's a shame their customer service is all but nonexistent - though I think I recall someone saying they're trying to take on more staff to fix that? Can't remember if that was them or not

No problemo. 4xI been good to me too!
 
I definitely appreciate all the advice! However in the time since posting I actually stumbled upon 4xI's sliders and I'm almost certain that's what I'll be going with. Can be angled, good kick out, look good, easy canvas for fab work, and very cheap. But still, thank you nonetheless. I hear lots of good things about SW's products, it's a shame their customer service is all but nonexistent - though I think I recall someone saying they're trying to take on more staff to fix that? Can't remember if that was them or not

Any update? Did you purchase the 4xInnovations sliders? I have a set myself in hand, just getting around to mocking up for install. Upon 1st mockup, I hit the bottom of my Limited trim at the front and rear. Not concerned with trimming, but just wondering if you have the same issue? Also, got the the partial step plates for my gf, but I dunno how functional they are actually going to be if I set the slider at a 10-15 degree angle.
 
Any update? Did you purchase the 4xInnovations sliders? I have a set myself in hand, just getting around to mocking up for install. Upon 1st mockup, I hit the bottom of my Limited trim at the front and rear. Not concerned with trimming, but just wondering if you have the same issue? Also, got the the partial step plates for my gf, but I dunno how functional they are actually going to be if I set the slider at a 10-15 degree angle.

Wow so funny you day that, give me until this weekend, I'm about to install them this Saturday actually and will be making a post to address the lack of room
Or once I get off work and off my phone in an hour I'll edit this post to be more detailed to give you a quick overview but I DO have a solution - dare I say, how they should've been made in the first place. Do not weld them up yet
 
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Any update? Did you purchase the 4xInnovations sliders? I have a set myself in hand, just getting around to mocking up for install. Upon 1st mockup, I hit the bottom of my Limited trim at the front and rear. Not concerned with trimming, but just wondering if you have the same issue? Also, got the the partial step plates for my gf, but I dunno how functional they are actually going to be if I set the slider at a 10-15 degree angle.

So mind you I work in a machine shop and all the equipment was available to me, but nothing I used was anything crazy or out of the ordinary. I've been putting the sliders off until a couple weeks ago but yes I ran into the very same problem - when using the legs how 4xI sent them (one flat end, one 15 degrees, about 6in at it's longest) I found even with everything as low on the frame as it could possibly go the sliders were sitting awfully close; I'm talking 1/8th inch at absolute most and a hair at it's worst. I really wanted mine kicked up 15 degrees as opposed to flat and eventually I came to the conclusion it just wouldn't be possible with the provided pieces - even if they were just a little longer you'd still be cutting it close, so my answer was to not only lengthen them but notch the other end as well at double the opposing angle.
To help visualize what I'm talking about I've made a diagram showing what I'm describing. In my thread this weekend I'll have some more pictures but this should be more than enough.
What I did is went out to a local metal supplier and bought 6 new pieces of 2x0.125" square tubing (I have the square main tube option), and had them cut these pieces to 7in each. On each of these pieces, starting as close to the end as possible I notched one side at 15 degrees then notched the opposing corner at 30 degrees in the same direction. You want to make a parallelogram here, not a trapezoid. It is important to match your line as closely with the corner as possible to minimize material loss, as doing these notches will give you a midsection that's roughly 0.5in longer than before (the midsection will now measure right around 6in, as opposed to it's longest point.) I helped mark what I'm talking about in both grey and green. The side with the lesser angle will go towards the frame, the legs will kick away from the body, then the greater angle will bring the sliders back up 15 degrees.
For the new gussets I simply got some thick steel plates and used cardboard pieces to help tessellate the correct shape/angle - which can easily be found by copying the corner in red.
Now you should be ready to mock up and have much, MUCH more space to work with - having the legs like this not only gives you more area to choose from when setting the legs on the plates (as opposed to the bottom or nothing) but will also give you much more area to choose where to set these plates on the frame AND give you way more clearance between the body and main tube. In theory this is also a structurally stronger design and even when the sliders are flexing you should have better clearance; if you were to take a spine-breaking wallop like in 4xI's testing video, at absolute worst the legs will come up parallel with the rocker panels instead of levering directly into them. To boot, with these new legs the sliders don't stick out any further than they would originally. The only downside to this was the 30 degree end now has an opening greater than 2in, leaving a narrow gap that must be filled somehow - whether it be cutting+pounding it into place or welding on a small plate to fill it.
Like I said, I have the square tube option; so if you have the round tube/legs it might not be as simple but should be very easy if you have a basic chop saw, as most have settings for 10-30 degrees already.
In regards to the steps, 15 degrees is about the tipping point of being usable from what I understand. 10 degrees might be a little better but I don't know if it would be a HUGE difference over 15 - I imagine you probably won't be using the tread plate much at that point regardless. Obviously having them set straight out is the best way to fully utilize them as steps, but plenty of people have theirs set at 10-15 degrees and are able to use them regardless, maybe putting a little griptape on them to help in the rain.
 

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Based on my (Shrockworks) slider install, there just isn't much room there, as you have found out. The legs are horizontal, level with the bottom of the frame, and the sliders would hit the body when flexing.

AIxBhjO.jpg


My solution was to put on poly body mounts, which brought the body up 1/8" or so and reduced the movement between the frame and body. So far, no more interference. The flat sliders with tread plates do help the wife and kids get in/out.

You will have to trim flares, etc. near the front and rear of sliders. I had to trim my rear skinny black flares a bit. I set the fronts to clear the mud flaps without trimming.

-Charlie
 
Regarding sliders hitting limited flares, cut the plastic.

If your sliders are hitting the body pinch seam, mark where the legs go directly under the pinch seam, then go about 1/4" out, and cut vertically until you get to the horizontal area. Then pound it flat. My sliders would have beeen flush and rubbing the pinch seam, but I folded those small sections of pinch weld up, and got an extra 1/2" of ground clearance.

Despite many heavy impacts, several hard enough to dent the DOM, no movement on the mounts, no contacting the body.
 
Based on my (Shrockworks) slider install, there just isn't much room there, as you have found out. The legs are horizontal, level with the bottom of the frame, and the sliders would hit the body when flexing.

AIxBhjO.jpg


My solution was to put on poly body mounts, which brought the body up 1/8" or so and reduced the movement between the frame and body. So far, no more interference. The flat sliders with tread plates do help the wife and kids get in/out.

You will have to trim flares, etc. near the front and rear of sliders. I had to trim my rear skinny black flares a bit. I set the fronts to clear the mud flaps without trimming.

-Charlie

Got a link to those Poly Body Mounts? I'm considering a 1/2 inch body lift to give me clearance on my 4x sliders. I have the same issue with mine being super close to the body, and they do hit on one side when flexing hard.
 

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