3rd Gen Stereo Head Unit Install w/Pic's

My stereo has a sub out, anybody experiment with a low profile powered sub under the passenger seat?

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Hey,

Has anyone had issues with tweeters not working?

Hardware:
- 2000 4Runner Limited
- Alpine CDE-147BT

Issue:
- Tweeters don't work
- Clock is dim, and air control LED backlight is not working

Note:
- Antenna secondary/booster not plugged in
- Stock amp removed
- Fuses checked

My co-worker gave me an Alpine CDE-147BT stereo. We removed the stock amp, and connected the wiring harness. Easy, right? I see some wiring harness for sale that say "4 speaker", so I'm suspecting that I have one of those, resulting in no tweeters. But also, the dim lights are weird.

For the wiring harness... I checked the smaller of the 2 connectors in 3 locations and noticed a discrepancy in pins... See pics below.
- Stereo side: 4 male
- Car side: 5 female
- Stock amp (removed): 6 pins
I'm thinking that it's supposed to have 6 pins. 4 "normal" speakers, and 2 tweeters. Does that make sense? Or is it just a frequency range thing? I'm a bicycle mechanic... We've only begun to use electronic shifting :)

justfuzzit-albums-my+2000+4runner+limited-picture41719-stere-side-wiring-harness.jpg

justfuzzit-albums-my+2000+4runner+limited-picture41720-car-side-stereo-wiring-harness.jpg

justfuzzit-albums-my+2000+4runner+limited-picture41716-amp-plug.jpg

justfuzzit-albums-my+2000+4runner+limited-picture41717-climate-control-box.jpg


Thoughts?
 
Hey,

Has anyone had issues with tweeters not working?

Hardware:
- 2000 4Runner Limited
- Alpine CDE-147BT

Issue:
- Tweeters don't work
- Clock is dim, and air control LED backlight is not working

Note:
- Antenna secondary/booster not plugged in
- Stock amp removed
- Fuses checked

My co-worker gave me an Alpine CDE-147BT stereo. We removed the stock amp, and connected the wiring harness. Easy, right? I see some wiring harness for sale that say "4 speaker", so I'm suspecting that I have one of those, resulting in no tweeters. But also, the dim lights are weird.

For the wiring harness... I checked the smaller of the 2 connectors in 3 locations and noticed a discrepancy in pins... See pics below.
- Stereo side: 4 male
- Car side: 5 female
- Stock amp (removed): 6 pins
I'm thinking that it's supposed to have 6 pins. 4 "normal" speakers, and 2 tweeters. Does that make sense? Or is it just a frequency range thing? I'm a bicycle mechanic... We've only begun to use electronic shifting :)

justfuzzit-albums-my+2000+4runner+limited-picture41719-stere-side-wiring-harness.jpg

justfuzzit-albums-my+2000+4runner+limited-picture41720-car-side-stereo-wiring-harness.jpg

justfuzzit-albums-my+2000+4runner+limited-picture41716-amp-plug.jpg

justfuzzit-albums-my+2000+4runner+limited-picture41717-climate-control-box.jpg


Thoughts?

Check the Alpine to make sure it doesn't have crossover settings turned on that is cutting out the higher frequencies. It's been a few years, but I believe the tweeters are fed off the door speaker with passive crossovers inline.

Here are the factory wire colors past the amp. It will be better to verify by what the wire does than how many are connected. The dim clock is a known issue and not related to the stereo, google it. The AC light probably got knocked lose or blown during the install, or the plug isn't in correctly. Also won't be related to the stereo wiring.

2000 Toyota 4-Runner Car Stereo Wire Colors
 
Last edited:
No. Pics are not showing and it doesn't make sense. The tweeter crossovers are inside the doors. The six pin plug only feeds the rear speakers, and has four wires to the rear speakers. The fifth wire (white-green on Pin 5) is the tie in to the illumination system and taps the rheostat that controls the dash lights. Your HU would probably NOT use this as most HU just want a 12V trigger, not something that dims through a range. But depends on HU documentation. The sixth pin (actually Pin 4) should be empty

The front door speakers are fed from the ten-pin plug, and they also only get four wires (two per door). If your tweeters are dead, the issue is inside the doors. Unlikely, I know, but it's the only explanation. Or maybe your HU is set with the Treble really low or there is a high filter turned on?

A/C and clock are unrelated.
 
Last edited:
No. Pics are not showing and it doesn't make sense. The tweeter crossovers are inside the doors. The six pin plug only feeds the rear speakers, and has four wires to the rear speakers. The fifth wire (white-green on Pin 5) is the tie in to the illumination system and taps the rheostat that controls the dash lights. Your HU would probably NOT use this as most HU just want a 12V trigger, not something that dims through a range. But depends on HU documentation. The sixth pin (actually Pin 4) should be empty

The front door speakers are fed from the ten-pin plug, and they also only get four wires (two per door). If your tweeters are dead, the issue is inside the doors. Unlikely, I know, but it's the only explanation. Or maybe your HU is set with the Treble really low or there is a high filter turned on?

A/C and clock are unrelated.

This is 100% correct - I have not seen an aftermarket stereo with a dimmer tie-in in a long time.

Make sure your polarity is correct on all speakers, many passive crossovers will cut out if wired out of phase. Always easier to test phase visually watching the speaker cone move touching a battery to the speaker wires to see which direction the cone moves - all speaker cones should move forward when battery tap tested with positive voltage to positive speaker wire.
 
Hey guys,

I got everything back in and it all works.

I replaced most bulbs in my climate-control unit, and also in the control bar just above it (rear window, etc pwr, etc.). Only some were actually dead. I also cut the orange illumination wire on the aftermarket wiring harness. The clock is back to normal, and the lights work!

I also played with settings on the stereo and the tweeters do work! I just need to dig in and figure out a method for dialing-in the 9-band EQ and X-over... The factory settings are close, but not great.

Thanks for your help on this..!
Ryan
 
Lookin for some help.

So on this topic. I'm hooking up a new 10" powered kenwood sub and wherever I look I can only find color coding for the wires I want to tap into (left +,- right +,-) but I don't know if I can trust that color code. Does anyone know what pins correspond to wha output. Or am I just being rediculouse and I should just follow the color code?
 
So on this topic. I'm hooking up a new 10" powered kenwood sub and wherever I look I can only find color coding for the wires I want to tap into (left +,- right +,-) but I don't know if I can trust that color code. Does anyone know what pins correspond to wha output. Or am I just being rediculouse and I should just follow the color code?

What head unit are you using?

Most head units use aftermarket color coding, not toyota factory coloring, but you should be using SUB or AUX out (via RCA) to input to your sub, not a high pass speaker input.
 
Great thread. I just ordered a new head unit for my 98 (pioneer AVH-2330 with carplay). I will document here as I get it put in. While I have it apart I will probably do the LED conversion on the AC controls and buttons while I'm in there. I would like some recommendations on some good but not crazy expensive speakers to upgrade with as well. thanks
 
Great thread. I just ordered a new head unit for my 98 (pioneer AVH-2330 with carplay). I will document here as I get it put in. While I have it apart I will probably do the LED conversion on the AC controls and buttons while I'm in there. I would like some recommendations on some good but not crazy expensive speakers to upgrade with as well. thanks

Kicker, Rockford Fosgate, and Polk have good prices online. All offer coaxial and component speakers at reasonable prices.
 
I keep seeing that people take the factory amp out. Will the amp not hook up to the HU? Not compatible?

There is a factory amp harness you can just wire to the stereo harness and alow the factory amp to also run my factory amp works amazing still and the harness I found on amazon little custom wiring and it works great keeping factory amp hope it helps


Amazon.com: Metra 70-8113 Amplifier Integration Harness for Select 2000-2004 Toyota Vehicles : Electronics
 
Yes the Metra 70-8113 will allow you to retain the factory amp. I installed an Alpine iLX-W650 and kept the factory amp since I haven't swapped out the speakers yet. Once I do, I will delete the amp as I will run a separate 4 channel for the highs.
 
I know this post is old but, I was wandering if you guys can help with the kit to install an aftermarket car audio stereo. Planning to change my OEM stero with one that will need a kit with the storage case.

thank you
 

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