3rd member studs

D

Drgriff

Junior Member
I’m having to replace the rear wheel bearings and 3rd member. I got everything taken apart and had a small issue. When I was removing the nuts on the 3rd member, 4 of the studs came out instead of just the nut. Before I reinstall the replacement, should I try and to get the nuts off of these studs and thread the studs back onto the axle or will it be fine to treat them like a bolt and just torque them the same as the nuts? Thanks
 
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Just treat them as bolts, but if the nut starts working it's way down the stud you'll want to use a lock/jam nut on it to make sure the stud screws into the housing far enough.
 
Drgriff said:
I’m having to replace the rear wheel bearings and 3rd member. I got everything taken apart and had a small issue. When I was removing the nuts on the 3rd member, 4 of the studs came out instead of just the nut. Before I reinstall the replacement, should I try and to get the nuts off of these studs and thread the studs back onto the axle or will it be fine to treat them like a bolt and just torque them the same as the nuts? Thanks
Click to expand...

Here's an upgrade idea for you:

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3137845-post175.html
 
That's sort of what I did. I used flange bolts from the backside. So nuts stay still the bolts wont come loose. I just got to long of bolts. So after I got it together, I just cut off the extra length of the bolts. As this made it harder only because the bolts. were too long. So 45 mm length is way too long. 8mm X1.25 thread. Just get super close the original stud size length and you be fine. :-)
 
Thanks for the advice. I decided to order some of those bolts and will replace them all before I reinstall the 3rd member. I assume the torque values are the same-18 foot/lbs ? That's what I saw on Timmy the toolman's video
 
Drgriff said:
Thanks for the advice. I decided to order some of those bolts and will replace them all before I reinstall the 3rd member. I assume the torque values are the same-18 foot/lbs ? That's what I saw on Timmy the toolman's video
Click to expand...

The stock hardware is 8.8 grade which can take up to 18 ft-lb. If you go with the 10.9 bolts AND get 10.9 rated nuts you can torque up to about 25 ft-lb, or stick with 18. I chose to use 25 and it's been fine.

I also used a lube-locker gasket and it's been holding now for 6+ years, if you want to look into that idea too.
 
JZiggy said:
I went back and checked, I got 35mm long bolts.

Amazingly these are the same price now as they were in 2018.

McMaster-Carr
Click to expand...

That be A better length as I cut about 10mm off.

I am only curious, why would you want to increase the bolt grade and goto 25ft lbs? 18ft lbs is spec even though the FSM says 56 fr lbs for non lockers.

Is it just for a better clamp or seal between the housing and the 3rd member? Or another reason?
 
brillo_76 said:
That be A better length as I cut about 10mm off.

I am only curious, why would you want to increase the bolt grade and goto 25ft lbs? 18ft lbs is spec even though the FSM says 56 fr lbs for non lockers.

Is it just for a better clamp or seal between the housing and the 3rd member? Or another reason?
Click to expand...

Higher torque, greater clamp load on the joint.
 
brillo_76 said:
Makes sense.. I never had an issue with a 3rd member coming loose. However, I don't off-road so ...:D
Click to expand...

FWIW, on our way back home from our Colorado/Utah road trip (with lots of spicy wheeling) my wife noticed an oil haze on her rear window coming through Kansas. Pulled over, and the rear diff had loosened on the axle housing. Snugged it up on, added a little more oil. She put bolts on it later on.
 
JohnMc said:
FWIW, on our way back home from our Colorado/Utah road trip (with lots of spicy wheeling) my wife noticed an oil haze on her rear window coming through Kansas. Pulled over, and the rear diff had loosened on the axle housing. Snugged it up on, added a little more oil. She put bolts on it later on.
Click to expand...

Just a little undercoating...:D Interesting, I personally, have never seen one come loose. I can see heavy off-roading flexing things enough that it may even snap the studs off. So your nuts come loose.. Interesting and explains way folks go with a higher grade bolt with higher clamping force. :)
 
JZiggy,

May I know where you got the 10.9 rated nuts and the lube locker gasket?
I tried to look for the 10.9 rated nuts at McMaster but only saw Gr. 8.8 nuts.

Thanks!

JZiggy said:
The stock hardware is 8.8 grade which can take up to 18 ft-lb. If you go with the 10.9 bolts AND get 10.9 rated nuts you can torque up to about 25 ft-lb, or stick with 18. I chose to use 25 and it's been fine.

I also used a lube-locker gasket and it's been holding now for 6+ years, if you want to look into that idea too.
Click to expand...
 
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