3RZ With 33's

[panda4r]

There may be some other issues with your vehicle (or your driving style, no offence) if this is the case.

Going from the stock 265/70r16 to a 265/75r16 is simply not a big enough difference to warrant a regear or even notice much of a difference. You are going from a 30.6" tire to a 31.6" tire, giving a difference of 3.3%. A gear ratio of 4.23 would return you to the equivalent of 4.10's and the 265/70r16. Sure, the 265/75 will weigh slightly more than the stock 265/70, but again, it is so minimal that the difference would not be noticeable.

I ran 265/75r16's for over 2 years and am now on heavy 285/75r16 mud tires with lots of added vehicle weight in the form of armor, winch, etc. I did a wheeling trip on sunday with a full car - over 700lbs in passengers, as well as a full size spare, hilift jack, tools and some gear.

The truck is not fast, but its no slug either. I had no problem maintaining 80 mph on the highway even with all the mentioned weight. In fact, I find this gearing setup is actually quite ideal on the highway as I can maintain low rpm's and cruise along just fine in 5th gear. The only time I really want lower gearing is in the rocks. I run some fairly technical rocky trails (for ifs) and I will admit, the 4.10's and 33's is terrible in these situations and I am constantly riding the clutch to prevent stalling. That being said, I think I would feel the same way with the stock 31's and 4.10.

In short, I will be investing in a dual transfer case setup before re gearing my diffs. The lack of double low range is limiting me way more than the ifs and I know that 4.88's or 5.29's would be unbearable on the highway with 33's.

The need for regearing is seriosuly over hyped on this forum IMO. Go to any other yota forum and you'll see what I mean...

So holy cow, right now I am low riding sagging in the back AND the front from suspension that has 180,000 miles on it, the stock p.o.s. heavy rusted steel 15's with the stock 225/75/15. I am planning on doing the tundra 5100 lift at 3in with toytec and ome springs. Also, I am buying some of the stock 16in alloy 3 split spoke wheels that I am gonna purrdy up, with 265/75/16's. I am also planning on having front and rear armor, and rock sliders. Will this be fine with the stock gearing?? Cause according to REVELC he has a hard time with the 3.4 on 32's, which I don't understand cause my Tacoma had the auto 3.4 with a 2in lift and 32's.

Another thing, I cannot figure out what trim my car is. I am now the 3rd owner of it. I always assumed it was base, with the 2.7 manual and steel 15's, but I noticed that no other bases that I see on here have the black fender flares, which I thought came on the sr5's. Anyone?

 

[Scramble]

So holy cow, right now I am low riding sagging in the back AND the front from suspension that has 180,000 miles on it, the stock p.o.s. heavy rusted steel 15's with the stock 225/75/15. I am planning on doing the tundra 5100 lift at 3in with toytec and ome springs. Also, I am buying some of the stock 16in alloy 3 split spoke wheels that I am gonna purrdy up, with 265/75/16's. I am also planning on having front and rear armor, and rock sliders. Will this be fine with the stock gearing?? Cause according to REVELC he has a hard time with the 3.4 on 32's, which I don't understand cause my Tacoma had the auto 3.4 with a 2in lift and 32's.

Another thing, I cannot figure out what trim my car is. I am now the 3rd owner of it. I always assumed it was base, with the 2.7 manual and steel 15's, but I noticed that no other bases that I see on here have the black fender flares, which I thought came on the sr5's. Anyone?

You probably have a Base but some SR5's came with 15" wheels. I could have ordered the SR5 fender flares for my Base. You could order almost everything on a Base model except for a few things like Leather or Limited Cladding but then you might as well buy a SR5 or Limited where those items come standard.

 

[IBallEngineer]

There may be some other issues with your vehicle (or your driving style, no offence) if this is the case.

Going from the stock 265/70r16 to a 265/75r16 is simply not a big enough difference to warrant a regear or even notice much of a difference. You are going from a 30.6" tire to a 31.6" tire, giving a difference of 3.3%. A gear ratio of 4.23 would return you to the equivalent of 4.10's and the 265/70r16. Sure, the 265/75 will weigh slightly more than the stock 265/70, but again, it is so minimal that the difference would not be noticeable.

I ran 265/75r16's for over 2 years and am now on heavy 285/75r16 mud tires with lots of added vehicle weight in the form of armor, winch, etc. I did a wheeling trip on sunday with a full car - over 700lbs in passengers, as well as a full size spare, hilift jack, tools and some gear.

The truck is not fast, but its no slug either. I had no problem maintaining 80 mph on the highway even with all the mentioned weight. In fact, I find this gearing setup is actually quite ideal on the highway as I can maintain low rpm's and cruise along just fine in 5th gear. The only time I really want lower gearing is in the rocks. I run some fairly technical rocky trails (for ifs) and I will admit, the 4.10's and 33's is terrible in these situations and I am constantly riding the clutch to prevent stalling. That being said, I think I would feel the same way with the stock 31's and 4.10.

In short, I will be investing in a dual transfer case setup before re gearing my diffs. The lack of double low range is limiting me way more than the ifs and I know that 4.88's or 5.29's would be unbearable on the highway with 33's.

The need for regearing is seriosuly over hyped on this forum IMO. Go to any other yota forum and you'll see what I mean...

You have a 3.4, the OP has a 3RZ, not even close to the same thing. But that isn't the only issue here. Speedo accuracy and how the ECM calculates data is just as important for on street driving. Now if you read the OP's original request, he states he is going from 225/75/15, to a 33" tire. Quite a spread there since the 225 is only 28". He also thinks he has a 4.10 axle ratio.

Using the calculator in 5th gear at 65 he is currently taching 2652. With 33's he would drop to 2274. If he regeared to 4.88 he goes to 2706, just 54 RPM over stock. If he went to 4.56 he would be at 2529, 123 RPM BELOW stock.

There is NO QUESTION he needs to regear to run 33" tires. The choice between 4.88 and 4.56 is not as definite, but I'd run the 88's. Well, in fact I do run them, I have 35's now, but I ran them with 33's for along time. Of course I have .7 overdrive where as he only has .83 in the 5 speed.

op2:

 

[HeshBen]

Another thing, I cannot figure out what trim my car is. I am now the 3rd owner of it. I always assumed it was base, with the 2.7 manual and steel 15's, but I noticed that no other bases that I see on here have the black fender flares, which I thought came on the sr5's. Anyone?

If it's of any help, I also have a base (2.7L, 4WD, came with 15" wheels) but also have the black SR5 Fender flares and running boards. I feel like mine was optioned as close to an SR5 as you could get, from my limited knowledge.

 

[BrandonF]

You have a 3.4, the OP has a 3RZ, not even close to the same thing. But that isn't the only issue here. Speedo accuracy and how the ECM calculates data is just as important for on street driving. Now if you read the OP's original request, he states he is going from 225/75/15, to a 33" tire. Quite a spread there since the 225 is only 28". He also thinks he has a 4.10 axle ratio.

Using the calculator in 5th gear at 65 he is currently taching 2652. With 33's he would drop to 2274. If he regeared to 4.88 he goes to 2706, just 54 RPM over stock. If he went to 4.56 he would be at 2529, 123 RPM BELOW stock.

There is NO QUESTION he needs to regear to run 33" tires. The choice between 4.88 and 4.56 is not as definite, but I'd run the 88's. Well, in fact I do run them, I have 35's now, but I ran them with 33's for along time. Of course I have .7 overdrive where as he only has .83 in the 5 speed.

op2:

My comment was in response to REVELC's comment. He mentioned he has the same 5 speed, 4.10, 3.4 combo that I do. I have never driven the 3RZ so I cant give an informed opinion on how that would be with 33's and stock gearing.

 

[KidVermicious]

Our '99 had 285s with stock 4.30 gearing for a bit, and it sucked. We didn't have to regear, but if I'd kept that tire size I would have for sure, probably 4.88s. This is with the auto of course, I'm sure the manual is more forgiving.

The OP is at 6000 feet, plus or minus, that's higher than I am. If he goes to 33s, he'll practically need to regear.

 

[panda4r]

Alright so I decided that since I have limited funds, and am planning on using this drive back and forth from college to home (1200 mile round trip) I will just go with a 3in lift with 265/75/16's. There shouldn't be any problem with this, should there? I am also planning on having front and rear armor and rock sliders, and a full size spare.

 

[KidVermicious]

You'll be ok with 265s. It'll be more sluggish than the 225s you have now (and the additional armor won't help!), but not unusable.

 

[Snowy21]

One area I think gets really overlooked is the terrain you live in. Out west at elevation, go for the shorter gear every time. Out east where all you have to pull is the Smokies then go for the taller gear. I had 285's on my 4Runner with 4.10's and it was fine out here but if I had less power and more hills, then I would have wanted to regear

 

[IBallEngineer]

My comment was in response to REVELC's comment..

Indeed it was, my apologies for thinking your comment was relevant to the OP's issue. No worries, I'll try to pay more attention!

:tape:

 

[REVELC]

There may be some other issues with your vehicle (or your driving style, no offence) if this is the case.

Going from the stock 265/70r16 to a 265/75r16 is simply not a big enough difference to warrant a regear or even notice much of a difference. You are going from a 30.6" tire to a 31.6" tire, giving a difference of 3.3%. A gear ratio of 4.23 would return you to the equivalent of 4.10's and the 265/70r16. Sure, the 265/75 will weigh slightly more than the stock 265/70, but again, it is so minimal that the difference would not be noticeable.

I ran 265/75r16's for over 2 years and am now on heavy 285/75r16 mud tires with lots of added vehicle weight in the form of armor, winch, etc. I did a wheeling trip on sunday with a full car - over 700lbs in passengers, as well as a full size spare, hilift jack, tools and some gear.

The truck is not fast, but its no slug either. I had no problem maintaining 80 mph on the highway even with all the mentioned weight. In fact, I find this gearing setup is actually quite ideal on the highway as I can maintain low rpm's and cruise along just fine in 5th gear. The only time I really want lower gearing is in the rocks. I run some fairly technical rocky trails (for ifs) and I will admit, the 4.10's and 33's is terrible in these situations and I am constantly riding the clutch to prevent stalling. That being said, I think I would feel the same way with the stock 31's and 4.10.

In short, I will be investing in a dual transfer case setup before re gearing my diffs. The lack of double low range is limiting me way more than the ifs and I know that 4.88's or 5.29's would be unbearable on the highway with 33's.

The need for regearing is seriosuly over hyped on this forum IMO. Go to any other yota forum and you'll see what I mean...

Well I have replaced plugs, timing belt, done ISR and added 14" Magnaflow. The engine is running great. I can even break a tire loose in first.

But I have to slip the clutch to get it going from a stop. If first was a little lower, regear, or a doubler I'd be much happier.

I don't expect too much out of it. I just want it to get rolling and not shit out in 4hi on small hills.



If any of you had to choose between double, S/C, regear, or older t case with 4.whatever gear which would you choose?

 

[Kryptoroxx]

Regear

 

[KidVermicious]

^ x2, regear first. Next depends on budget, a doubler setup gives more options than a single 4.7 case, but is going to cost more. Not sure of the exact costs on a 3rd gen, but I know that shit doesn't just bolt up like it does on my '85, hahaha.

I like my 4.7 case, easily one of my favorite mods. But I do miss a regular 2.28 low range now and again. I'll probably put in a doubler eventually.

 

[REVELC]

^ x2, regear first. Next depends on budget, a doubler setup gives more options than a single 4.7 case, but is going to cost more. Not sure of the exact costs on a 3rd gen, but I know that shit doesn't just bolt up like it does on my '85, hahaha.

I like my 4.7 case, easily one of my favorite mods. But I do miss a regular 2.28 low range now and again. I'll probably put in a doubler eventually.

Regearing to 5.29s this week.

Im going to have to sell or destroy these 32"s soon now....

 

[Red October]

Sooo... Im late to this party. But i do have some questions about this gearing dilemma. I have 4.56's, and a 3rz 5psd, Im running 265/75's, I have been considering stepping up to a 255/85, but I don't wanna over-do this as i have had that experience before [...Zuk, 33s, exactly 0 Hp. Yes it looked tough, and it even worked ok, until there was a hill, or wind, or a butterfly fart. Long story short, I stepped back several sizes...] I just don't wanna get in over my head.

33 R17's will be going on my 3RZ/5spd (4:10) in a few weeks. I'll let you all know how it is.
I don't think the OP has 4:10 gears with the stock 15" wheels. My Base model came with the upgraded 265/70R16 tires.

How are those 33's treatin you with the 4 popper?

Be careful with 4.88's and 33's. That is probably too much gear for such a small tire. You'll be screaming at any highway speed. 4.56 would be the way to go if you were going to stay 33's. Plus you can get junkyard 4.56 front and rear. Obviously this is all moot if you are going to 35's, then go for the 4.88's. I had. 5.29's and 35's with my 3rz and always wished it was. 4.88...till I got 37's and it was perfect

I have heard this opinion, and Im honestly curious what "screamin" is in your opinion? Not sayin your wrong, just curious.

Our '99 had 285s with stock 4.30 gearing for a bit, and it sucked. We didn't have to regear, but if I'd kept that tire size I would have for sure, probably 4.88s. This is with the auto of course, I'm sure the manual is more forgiving.

The OP is at 6000 feet, plus or minus, that's higher than I am. If he goes to 33s, he'll practically need to regear.

What was your solution, step back a size? What did you choose.

I have been researching this for a couple months, reading here on T4r, and all the Tacoma sites, I haven't found anything really conclusive tho

 

[BrandonF]

I have been researching this for a couple months, reading here on T4r, and all the Tacoma sites, I haven't found anything really conclusive tho

You won't find anything conclusive. There are too many variables to say what gear ratio will be perfect for you. No matter what, any gear ratio is a compromise.

 

[Red October]

You won't find anything conclusive. There are too many variables to say what gear ratio will be perfect for you. No matter what, any gear ratio is a compromise.

I guess what I meant was info on my particular particular setup (3RZ, 5spd, 4.56 and tire sizes) like mpg loss, and if overall performance was good bad or acceptable. You are right about compromise, its all about choosing what works best for you and your build.

 

[Scramble]

Sooo... Im late to this party. But i do have some questions about this gearing dilemma. I have 4.56's, and a 3rz 5psd, Im running 265/75's, I have been considering stepping up to a 255/85, but I don't wanna over-do this as i have had that experience before [...Zuk, 33s, exactly 0 Hp. Yes it looked tough, and it even worked ok, until there was a hill, or wind, or a butterfly fart. Long story short, I stepped back several sizes...] I just don't wanna get in over my head.



How are those 33's treatin you with the 4 popper?

Well since I made that post I found out I have factory 4.56 gears. I've only driven back & forth to work a few times & it does feel slower from a dead stop. It's a combination of more weight, a more aggressive tread & a new sticky tire. With the 265/70R17 Grabber HTR's I was able to chirp the rear tire in 1st easily. This engine has a lot of torque as you know. Once I get up to speed it's fine but I find myself switching gears at a higher RPM. Cruising at 70mph is good (I'm probably at 75mph), RPM's are @ 2800. I live in a valley so I deal with steep hills & do have to drop down a gear more often then before to get up hill. I'm sure once I put the High Boost TRD S/C'r in all will be good.:eyebrows:

EDIT: It's looks like my MPG's dropped from 18.5 to 17.3 but that was only in 4 days of driving & I was taking it easy with my new suspension. Once I'm comfortable with everything I installed I'm sure I'll start driving it a little more..."spirited". :driving:

3RZ!!! FTW!

 

[KidVermicious]

What was your solution, step back a size? What did you choose.

On the '99 (5VZE/auto/4.30) I stepped back a size. 285s were usable but sluggish enough to be annoying, 265s are better. On the '85 (22RE/manual/5.29) I've got 255/85s and that combo is very peppy, but as noted, the RPMs are high. Cruising at 65 MPH had me around 3000 rpm plus or minus, which I'm good with, but when I finish the 3RZ swap I've been ignoring I'll probably step up to 35s or 37s just because I can.

You're not finding any hard answers because it's all subjective, but if you wanna know about specific RPMs consult here: www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html. My opinion, 33ish tires would be usable with a 3RZ and 4.56, depending on elevation and your driving style of course. A guy at sea level who drives like grandpa is going to have a different opinion of a specific tire/gearing combo than a guy at 4500 feet who thinks he's Michael Schumacher.

 

[KidVermicious]

Regearing to 5.29s this week.

Im going to have to sell or destroy these 32"s soon now....

Yup. But you'll love 5.29 on the trail. Low gearing makes the five speed a magical thing when you're crawling.