4.56 Gears

mrvandelay

mrvandelay

New member
Anyone have a good writeup on regearing to 4.56? I know harper7 has a bit but I'm looking for part #s and what I need to buy to get it done.

Thanks!
 
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How difficult would it be to do the install on this myself?? The price on the gears themselves don't seem outrageous, but I know labor costs for it would be ridiculous.
 
FactoryRide said:
How difficult would it be to do the install on this myself?? The price on the gears themselves don't seem outrageous, but I know labor costs for it would be ridiculous.
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I'm thinking the same thing. I'd have an ARB Locker in the front, which adds $900 or so to the overall cost (plus air compressor+switches)
 
spending many years in the off road community, gears are the only thing I will not do on my own to this day.... there is something to be said about an experienced installer.
 
mrvandelay said:
I'm thinking the same thing. I'd have an ARB Locker in the front, which adds $900 or so to the overall cost (plus air compressor+switches)
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Exactly, while it's apart, I'd go ahead and do that whether I ever end up needing them or not. Kill two birds with one stone kinda thing. Plus, I have a buddy that use to do rear ends for race cars, and did the rear end in our Jeep. I'm sure he would help me in exchange for helping him build motors.
 
I personally wouldn't do it myself if I had never set up gears before and ESPECIALLY not for a daily driver. They have to be within millimeters of the tolerance to avoid lash and killing ring gears. Personally it is worth it to have someone do it, or buy a a complete diff from ECGS already set up with the locker you want...
 
mrvandelay said:
Anyone have a good writeup on regearing to 4.56? I know harper7 has a bit but I'm looking for part #s and what I need to buy to get it done.

Thanks!
Click to expand...

It's alot easier to have Chase at ECGS build up an assembled front(clamshell) and rear(3rd member) as he has the experience and the tools,not to mention a 5 year warranty.It's not that hard to set the pinion depth and backlash if you have the right tools.It would cost you alot more to buy all the tools for a one time use then just have him or a trusted qualified shop build them up.

As far as changing out the diffs ,we have the full factory service manual here on the forum as you'll need the torques.I can show you some short cuts so you don't have to remove the brakes and hubs if your actually going to do it.
The front is a PITA because you have to pull the cv axles of course, the front drive shaft bolts are kind of hard to get to and it's just an awkward heavy azz mother to get up and in place. The rear 3rd member is pretty straight forward and much easier.

I did see your inquiry on my build thread about the swap and will eventually get around to it.lol
I took a bunch of pics but have been just too busy and lazy to get a proper write-up together.

Here is what you want from East Coast Gear Supply. Ask for Chase and tell him I sent you.Great guy to BS with and very experienced and knowledgeable!They don't have the assembled rear 3rd members up on the website yet but he'll know about it and will send you a quote. I was quoted $2400 more by Baertrax here in Dallas to do the build up and installs and that's with me doing the air supply.

These are what I bought with ARB lockers installed front and rear.
Front.....ITEM DESCRIPTION
Complete Assembled ECGS Differential Toyota 8"
Clamshell Front with _456__ R&P

RD121-T8-3-30 RD121 Toyota 8" clam shell 3.73 and down ARB
Tacoma/ FJ Cruiser/ 4Runner- 8" Reverse Clamshell Assembly

Rear....ITEM DESCRIPTION
2010 4RUNNER LIMITED
ECGS COMPLETE DIFF - TOYOTA 8.2 NON
LOCKING 2010+ FJ
CRUISER/4RUNNER/PRADO 150 (12 BOLT
RING GEAR SIDE ADJUST)

RD193-T8.25 RD193 TOYOTA 8.25 BIG 8 (12 BOLT RING
GEAR) (14MM NUTS TO SECURE 3RD) 2010
4RUNNER AND UP, 2011 AND UP NON
LOCKING FJ CRUISER !!!!! NOT TACOMA!!!!

Of course you'll need the one for locking rear with the TE's and also a air supply set up if your putting a air locker in front.

I have 8k miles on mine and still my favorite mod to date as it's something noticed on a daily basis!It's one of those things where you would have to experience regearing to really appreciate it. It just has so much more low end torque and goes thru the tranny gears so much smoother.

Aggie said:
Here is a link to the front and Rear Nitro's from ECGS. Remember you will need an install kit normally.

Toyota FJ Cruiser/ 05+ Tacoma, 4runner- 8.0 Clamshell IFS Front Ring and Pinion- 4.56 Thick

NITRO Gear Toyota V6/E-LOCKER 8"- Gears

Hope this helps.
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They changed rear diffs to a 8.2" in 2010 and the V6 8"ring and pinions are the old ones. This is the correct ring and pinion for 5th Gens..........Nitro Gear 4.56 Ring & Pinions for 2010+ FJ Cruiser, 4runner, Prado 150*Rear - New Products - Nitro Gear & Axle
 
I'd assume there's a definite difference in pick up and hilly roads whether its 285 or 305 tires. What's the general cost for regear including labor?
 
I expected an improvement in the low end range, but whats the top end like? Did it lose any or what? I know, I know. It's a 4runner, not a sports car, but I do have a very heavy right foot and a very lightweight skinny pedal.
 
FactoryRide said:
I expected an improvement in the low end range, but whats the top end like? Did it lose any or what? I know, I know. It's a 4runner, not a sports car, but I do have a very heavy right foot and a very lightweight skinny pedal.
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geared correctly it should put you back to about where/how it was when stock.
 
I think I am going to buy a new carrier for my rear and maybe try to sell my e-locker here on the site to help recoup costs. I kinda don't like the 4Lo only limitation with the e-locker.
 
TexasAg said:
I think I am going to buy a new carrier for my rear and maybe try to sell my e-locker here on the site to help recoup costs. I kinda don't like the 4Lo only limitation with the e-locker.
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You're gonna remove your factory elocker from your trail?!@#!
 
phillyd2 said:
Would it be as noticeable a improvement with 285 tires?
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IMO....It's a little too low of gearing for 33's as I had them on awhile before stepping up to 34's but ya you will probably be about able to smoke the tires off.lol Smoke any stock 4th Gen V8 in the 1/4" too!

I'm gradually moving my way up to 35's which would about make it about geared close to the same as stock considering the added wheel weight of bigger tires. Bigger diameter tires and my -10 offset wheels however don't play well with our rear fender wells when stuffed as I found out and still need to work the bugs out on that.Also with 34's now,when my speedometer is off the other way as in when it reads 70 when I'm actually going 75 according to both my GPS's and reading 50 is actually 53mph.

FactoryRide said:
I expected an improvement in the low end range, but whats the top end like? Did it lose any or what? I know, I know. It's a 4runner, not a sports car, but I do have a very heavy right foot and a very lightweight skinny pedal.
Click to expand...
Still plenty on the top end. I just had it over 100mph cruising on VC in a couple of wide open places and wasn't close to redline :lol:
Limiter shuts it down at 110 or 115mph anyways! Now I remember..Ya ,Ya, a little birdie must have told me that!
 
harper7 said:
Still plenty on the top end. I just had it over 100mph cruising on VC in a couple of wide open places and wasn't close to redline :lol:
Limiter shuts it down at 110 or 115mph anyways! Now I remember..Ya ,Ya, a little birdie must have told me that!
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That is awesome to hear. I don't want to lose top end too much. And yeah limiter on mine shut me down a hair past 115 according to my dyno app that was tracking my speed.
 
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