4 Wheel Parts: No Installs Of Toytec Spacers On T4R's w/ KDSS??????

Did they try to sell you on the kits they sell instead? If so, then that's probably it. Otherwise maybe they did have a bad experience once and don't want to risk it again. It's pretty unusual for a business to turn down money for no reason.

Well both happened.

I was told their Corporate HQ told them not to do it, and then was told about a spacer kit they sell that they'd be happy to install.

Based on what Harper had to say on page 1, there seems to be the potential for legitimate complications. Seems odd in some respect since there are a ton of lifted/leveled KDSS's rigs on this forum, and a minimum of people b!tching about the process getting it done right.
 
I appreciate the offer all the same.

Did you read Harper's post on the bottom of page 1? Seems pretty daunting based on his assessment, and even in the brief time I've been here, its obvious he knows what he's doing.

No issues with your install at all?

Not that daunting but just as you said more potential for problems is probably why they didn't want to deal with it. I would just hate dealing with electronic sensor problems after the physical work of installing the lift.Plenty have lifted KDSS with no problem compared to the few who have had sensor problems and some calling out for help on here when trying to get the sway bar back in place.

I'm not sure why the actuator extends all the way for some making it so hard on the front sway bar and some say it wasn't hard for them.I had all 4 wheels in the air and disconnected one side of the sway bar on front and back when I lifted Stephanie's TE and the actuators fully extended and why it was so hard.I had a 2 ton jack and a scissor jack to steady it and still needed a punch to line up the bolt holes on the LCA in the front and get one started.

Not alot of people on here with TE's tell exactly how they did it or give vague details but that's how I did it. Is there an easier way?
Maybe just 2 wheels in the air at a time ,placing the truck on the ground before attaching the sway bar or we've heard strapping it so it can't extend is a better way.We need somebody to step up and do a detailed DIY on lifting a KDSS TE.
 
Dealers here will not install these sorts of things. Already asked about that.

really? my dealer sells tons of trucks as premium off-road models with little more than hockey puck lifts. Funny.

I only have experience working on my sr5, but I did have to do a zero point cal afterwards. honestly, if you did decide to try it yourself (after reading the many, many how-to's on here and other sites) you wouldn't need more more than a jack/stands, and a decent metric socket set.
 
Told you to steer clear of those assclowns!:behindsofa:

sell me the tires:banana:

Oh and a lot of dealers WILL install that.
 
Not that daunting but just as you said more potential for problems is probably why they didn't want to deal with it. I would just hate dealing with electronic sensor problems after the physical work of installing the lift.Plenty have lifted KDSS with no problem compared to the few who have had sensor problems and some calling out for help on here when trying to get the sway bar back in place.

I'm not sure why the actuator extends all the way for some making it so hard on the front sway bar and some say it wasn't hard for them.I had all 4 wheels in the air and disconnected one side of the sway bar on front and back when I lifted Stephanie's TE and the actuators fully extended and why it was so hard.I had a 2 ton jack and a scissor jack to steady it and still needed a punch to line up the bolt holes on the LCA in the front and get one started.

Not alot of people on here with TE's tell exactly how they did it or give vague details but that's how I did it. Is there an easier way?
Maybe just 2 wheels in the air at a time ,placing the truck on the ground before attaching the sway bar or we've heard strapping it so it can't extend is a better way.We need somebody to step up and do a detailed DIY on lifting a KDSS TE.
i'd really like to see a detailed KDSS Trail lift writeup too. i was going on the assumption that the ratchet-strap method, followed by a swift Zero-Point Calibration, was the way to go. :shrug:

i think even just E-load Duratracs, with no suspension upgrades to date, made my VSC/TRAC a bit more twitchy.
 
Told you to steer clear of those assclowns!:behindsofa:

sell me the tires:banana:

Oh and a lot of dealers WILL install that.

You were right Stifler.......then again Harper brought up some points well worth considering. The process with KDSS isn't as straight forward as I previously thought.

The 275/70/17's are going on, but I have a SWEET set of OEM Dunlop 265/70/17's that would look GREAT on your 4R. :yo:
 
i'd really like to see a detailed KDSS Trail lift writeup too.

I've got a set of Icons on the way so I'll try to take pics and document as much as I can. Honestly, I think part of it is that once you get started you focus so much on the work you forget everything else. I had planned on taking pics during my BudBuilt skidplate install but forgot all about it by the time I finished installing the first skid.
 
I've got a set of Icons on the way so I'll try to take pics and document as much as I can. Honestly, I think part of it is that once you get started you focus so much on the work you forget everything else. I had planned on taking pics during my BudBuilt skidplate install but forgot all about it by the time I finished installing the first skid.
that would be an awesome addition to the forum. thx, Intruder.

btw: did you use ratchet-straps when you installed the OW suspension in your sig?
 
btw: did you use ratchet-straps when you installed the OW suspension in your sig?
I had the OW kit installed at the dealership so this will be a first for me. I'll have friends who've done lots of suspension installs helping so hopefully one of us will remember to get some good pics.
 
i'd really like to see a detailed KDSS Trail lift writeup too. i was going on the assumption that the ratchet-strap method, followed by a swift Zero-Point Calibration, was the way to go. :shrug:

i think even just E-load Duratracs, with no suspension upgrades to date, made my VSC/TRAC a bit more twitchy.

Did you try performing the zero-point calibration after the tires? I experienced the same exact thing as you after I put on my Duratrac E loads, and the only thing that seemed to alleviate it was the ZPC. Not trying to scare you or anything, but for me it was out right dangerous...the VSC randomly decided to let off my brakes and pulse the ABS during panics stops :(

Needless to say, after two close calls for me I sucked it up and did the ZPC and all seems to be well now...I can't say for sure if that was the issue, but I guess it can't hurt to recalibrate :)
 
Did you try performing the zero-point calibration after the tires? I experienced the same exact thing as you after I put on my Duratrac E loads, and the only thing that seemed to alleviate it was the ZPC. Not trying to scare you or anything, but for me it was out right dangerous...the VSC randomly decided to let off my brakes and pulse the ABS during panics stops :(

Needless to say, after two close calls for me I sucked it up and did the ZPC and all seems to be well now...I can't say for sure if that was the issue, but I guess it can't hurt to recalibrate :)
i haven't bothered yet, actually. i just drive a little more conservatively (which isn't the worst thing) and it hasn't kicked in in a long time now. i am resigned/aware, however, that it's pretty much a de facto additional/final step in any suspension upgrades to a KDSS TE.
 
I appreciate the offer all the same.

Did you read Harper's post on the bottom of page 1? Seems pretty daunting based on his assessment, and even in the brief time I've been here, its obvious he knows what he's doing.

No issues with your install at all?

Nope, none at all. I reckon I might have gotten lucky, but never had to have my VSC or anything re-calibrated. It's not the easiest thing to do by far, but I was able to get it done in about 6 hours. An extra set of hands made it go by a little easier, and the helpful hands of this forum helped out. The hardest part of the install is the KDSS. Other then that it's pretty simple. A trick for the KDSS is to have all 4 wheels at full droop and that will take some of the pressure off to allow for the sway bars to reconnect. Also, I used a ratchet strap and jack to line the sway bars back up into place.
 
New here, but not to the subject at hand. Wonder if the KDSS bulletin used on the 200 series is the answer. Honestly I haven't look on ours yet, but not keen on the idea of prying and ratcheting to get things back in place after lifting. Link on this page Catalogue

KDSS has been around since 2004 on 120, 150 & 200 series, and a lot of lifts installed. Hope things are simplified when I commence in the very near future!
 
New here, but not to the subject at hand. Wonder if the KDSS bulletin used on the 200 series is the answer. Honestly I haven't look on ours yet, but not keen on the idea of prying and ratcheting to get things back in place after lifting. Link on this page Catalogue

KDSS has been around since 2004 on 120, 150 & 200 series, and a lot of lifts installed. Hope things are simplified when I commence in the very near future!
huh, that's the first i've ever seen of that. :confused:
 
If someone close to me does an install I would be happy to document it with (awesome) pics and a full writeup. (Not offering my garage up though, sorry!)

Gawd knows I've done enough writeups so they come together pretty quickly now.

Let's work out the logistics fella's.
 
Dealers here will not install these sorts of things. Already asked about that.

I'd be fine with a call that stated I had the wrong kit, or there's no way to install something I bought that just wont work. My bad....I'll eat it.

Not the case here, it will fit, dozens on here have installed the same exact kit, Toytec confirmed it works fine with KDSS. These guys just don't sell Toytec products and I think that has something to do with it...they're authorized on their own stuff, not on brands they don't carry.

Which is also ok...had they told me that a WEEK ago when I detailed, clearly what I wanted done and what I was going to buy.

There aren't a whole lot of 4X4 shops around South Florida, but looks like I'll have to find one.
sounds like THIS is the problem...not that they're not capable of doing the work, but that they won't because they didn't sell it to you.

I had visited one of the shops here in town looking at roof racks, and had asked the guy if I bought it if they'd do the install and he clearly stated it's against their policy and they'll only install things they sell.
 
New here, but not to the subject at hand. Wonder if the KDSS bulletin used on the 200 series is the answer. Honestly I haven't look on ours yet, but not keen on the idea of prying and ratcheting to get things back in place after lifting. Link on this page Catalogue

KDSS has been around since 2004 on 120, 150 & 200 series, and a lot of lifts installed. Hope things are simplified when I commence in the very near future!

Interesting.

What series KDSS does the 2013 Trail run?

I'm somewhat amazed that this process of lifting/leveling with KDSS considerations being addressed in detail hasn't been vetted at length on this site.

Maybe it has in small posts here and there, but given the popularity of lifting/leveling, the amount of KDSS equipped 4R's here, and the unique dynamics KDSS brings to the process, it would seem this might be a good idea. Wish I could step up to the challenge, but unfortunately I'm the novice with the Toytec level kit trying to figure out how I can just get my 2013 TE leveled out without screwing up my brand new ride.
 
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New here, but not to the subject at hand. Wonder if the KDSS bulletin used on the 200 series is the answer. Honestly I haven't look on ours yet, but not keen on the idea of prying and ratcheting to get things back in place after lifting. Link on this page Catalogue

KDSS has been around since 2004 on 120, 150 & 200 series, and a lot of lifts installed. Hope things are simplified when I commence in the very near future!

We have the 4runner factory repair manual online here and it doesn't mention anything about this so don't know if it would work.
Under front KDSS bar removal and install it tells you to "Using a union nut wrench, disconnect the 2 front stabilizer control tubes." to bleed the pressure off for removal. I wasn't about to do this as I read the bleed procedure that followed. C214455.png

Then under the install part it tells you to jack it into place using a block of wood between the bar and the jack and then bleed the system using the special Toyota SST after it's all in place and bolted up to replace the fluid lost and bleed it.That would mean a trip to the dealer if you did it the right way and followed the manual.Never mentions anything about those bleed valves from the 200 series LC to let the pressure off without cracking open the lines.
C214684.png
 

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