$40 homemade load bars, no factory rack
- Thread starter Fjatheart
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Fjatheart
New member
Thank you for the compliments. Im no master craftsman, but i wanted it to look clean and blend with vehicle. I looked at load bars out there and I couldn't justify the cost for as much as I would use them. Since selling my truck, I needed something I could throw wood and larger items on securely.
I simply replaced 4 of the metric bolts holding the rubber strip down to the roof with longer, stainless, hex head bolts/screws, I ordered off Fastenal. The bolts/screws go into the factory holes about an inch or better, so it's really secure. I put some blue locktite on the threads for good measure.
I got the rubber stoppers from a local hardware store and drilled holes through the center. They provide a solid foot and only cost about $3 each. Strut cost about $15 and I cut to 46 inch lengths. I didn't want too much of an overhang to catch anyone getting in and out of the car.
I wiped the strut down with acetone and primed it with adhesive promotor, then did about 5 coats of satin black Rustoleum.
If you guys decide to make one and have any questions about hardware or dimensions, feel free to give me a shout.
I simply replaced 4 of the metric bolts holding the rubber strip down to the roof with longer, stainless, hex head bolts/screws, I ordered off Fastenal. The bolts/screws go into the factory holes about an inch or better, so it's really secure. I put some blue locktite on the threads for good measure.
I got the rubber stoppers from a local hardware store and drilled holes through the center. They provide a solid foot and only cost about $3 each. Strut cost about $15 and I cut to 46 inch lengths. I didn't want too much of an overhang to catch anyone getting in and out of the car.
I wiped the strut down with acetone and primed it with adhesive promotor, then did about 5 coats of satin black Rustoleum.
If you guys decide to make one and have any questions about hardware or dimensions, feel free to give me a shout.
BrianSD_42
New member
it's pretty good for a budget but I'm sure you can find a full factory rack at your local junkyard for < $40
Benski
Member
Nice idea. I added an extra factory crossbar to handle more load. I would suggest making your bars at least 50" long to handle sheets of plywood. You could flip the strut and recess the bolts and then you can put the hook in cam tie downs in the end hole of the struts and eliminate the eye bolts. Just a thought.
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Trikz
New member
Would you please share which size bolts/screws you used? I might just do this mod this afternoon if you don't mind :biggrin2: I already have some aftermarket cross bars but they are tied down rather than bolted. I'd just have to drill a hole and find some sort of rubber spacer such as yours to separate the bar from the roof. Thanks in advanced.
my local junkyard sells complete roof racks for $25...
cj80cruiser
Senior Member
I couldn't even get a few pieces off a damaged rack for that price at the junkyards around here.
Fjatheart
New member
I used 4 of the M6-1.0 x 75mm. I went with stainless to avoid the rust. I went with a socket head, so I could use an Allen wrench, but anything type head would work.
Be careful with drilling a hole. I simply removed a shorter factor screw and replaced it with the longer one listed about. I already have the holes/anchors for a factory rack in place, then I when above the factory rubber strip with the 1 inch rubber spacer. The super strut was about an inch thick and I screwed the 75mm screws in about an inch. If you flip the strut over, with the U facing up, you only need about a 55mm to 60mm length screw/bolt.
Fjatheart
New member
That's great, I just didn't want a factory rack.
NOT ME OR SOMEBODY
New member
I'll say one thing....... thats a really cool looking paint color on your 4Runner, probably the best of all of them. :bigok:
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Fjatheart
New member
Different enough to be cool, but not so much that it draws attention.
Always been a fan of these and the copper color as well.
Thanks!
Fjatheart
New member
Thanks QJake,
I've got about a quarter of an inch clearance, but thinking about spacing it slight more, to account for deflection in the center. I'm concerned another complete spacer would be a bit wonky.
I post up with any changes.
Thanks!
Qjake
New member
Agreed.
Maybe flip it over and use a couple of larger nuts or some stainless fender washers to space it. I'm thinking another inch higher should keep it from contacting the roof but that's up to you of course.
