4lo Actuator Rebuild

If you did not have to remove the actuator housing to get to the 4H/L motor, that's fantastic news! Looking forward to the update and hoping mine is a poor solder connection. The internals of mine are spotless but I'm stuck in 4LO.

I wasn't that lucky, had to take apart the entire Tcase and go through the motions.

I did notice something interesting and that is when the CDL box is bolted tightly to the Tcase, the CDL shifting rod interferes inside the CDL box and possibly is binding up. It can't come out of the Tcase all the way. I'll open it up again today and investigate.

Right now, the CDL is stuck ON and the 4Low keeps blinking even though I can hear the actuator move the shift rod back n forth.
 
I wasn't that lucky, had to take apart the entire Tcase and go through the motions.

I did notice something interesting and that is when the CDL box is bolted tightly to the Tcase, the CDL shifting rod interferes inside the CDL box and possibly is binding up. It can't come out of the Tcase all the way. I'll open it up again today and investigate.

Right now, the CDL is stuck ON and the 4Low keeps blinking even though I can hear the actuator move the shift rod back n forth.

It's my understanding there's another actuator / switch assembly on the front diff. Have you checked that one?
 
I just bought a 05 V8 Limited 4R...
Drove it from the seller's house.. put the trans into 4LO and the second I did that, noticed a large spill of "oil" once I drove into my place...

looks like its the transfer case leak - so I guess my question is.... if I don't plan on driving in 4lo (ever) do I need to get this fixed?
 
impressive you guys dug into this!

i was so relieved after buying my t4r that i finally got my 4lo to work properly.
it would not engage for a couple days when i first started trying - in my front lawn to get it off pavement to try. that wasnt working so i took it to the beach and engaged it in soft sand and it grabbed 4lo and has done so every time ive tried since (just at that same spot in sand haha)
 
With the actuator on my desk, I started inspecting the motors, gears etc.. I found the center diff lock motor completely seized up and looking like a rusted Model-T in a farmers yard. I found the numbers I needed on the 4lo motor (which still works) to start a search for replacements. Amazon has a package of 2 motors for less than $12 shipped, so I am awaiting delivery, then I will solder them in place.

I have ordered new seals for the t-case shafts and plan to use geurillawarfare's method to reinstall the actuator when the time comes. See his method here.

The damage sustained by the seals from the teeth on the shaft is pictured. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO SLIDE THE ACTUATOR OFF WITHOUT SEPARATING T-CASE UNLESS YOU WANT TO REPLACE SEALS!

Actuator Timing: From what I have discovered so far, there are timing marks on two of the gears. The bigger, 4lo gear and the bigger center diff lock gear. The indicator on the dash is illuminated by little gears driven by the two gears with the timing marks. Pictures two and three will show you the position of the timing marks of these little gears that is required to power on the dash lights. Not knowing EXACTLY what position they have to be in I will refer back to my initial disassembly pictures for the correct positions of these marks when I reinstall the actuator.

I will update you all with more pics and the end result when the parts come in and I attempt the installation. If you have any suggestions, feel free to let me know.

can you put the link to the motors
 

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