4th Gen Body Lifts

[HiVel-JR]

Hey guys, need some help. My search comes back with the same stuff. Wanted to see if anyone has any pictures or links to something better.

I bought this 1" body lift from TOYTEC and want to add it, but just unsure of the of the body gaps.

Any pictures would be great of bumper gaps, frame gaps etc.

I have read the post on the 120 forum about the install, but still want more info.

 

[BlackWorksInc]

Well, here's my 4th gen after I threw a 1.5" Body Lift to give you an idea:

That's before I installed a new bracket for the front bumper to bring it up an inch.

The rear Bumper will stretch some, so the grey plastic "shelf" at the end will tilt towards the ground rather than look perpendicular.

 

[blackoutt]

This is a 1" body lift as well. If you look really closely inside the rear fender wells you'll see the gap that now appears between body and frame. This makes changing rear shock top mounts out way easier, gives more access for front end work too. I was able to reuse the front splash guards but the ones behind the front wheels wouldn't stretch that far, I got some EPDM from mcmaster carr and cut my own. You can also see the rear/front bumper fitment here. The top face of the rear bumper black plastic "step pad" is unsupported now, the front bumper corners don't line up perfect (although they didn't before) there is no weird gap in the bumpers to body though. The trailer hitch has an awkward gap above it but I'm used to it now. Overall I would recommend a 1" body lift, it got me to where I wanted to be for cheap and pretty easy install in a few hours with a buddy, with no appearance issues that aren't livable.

 

[CruzadoBlanco]

heres mine with 3.5 inches of suspension and a 1" 4crawler body lift right after i put my 35x12.50s on it

 

[HiVel-JR]

Awesome, thanks for the pictures!

I did not think about the splash guards covering the engine. Thanks for bringing that up.

I need to add this body lift due to the fact i am getting slight rubbing when the truck is in certain departure angles and the wheels will snag the wheel well in both the front and the back. It is not bad, but it makes the traction control sensors beep and then i hear a little rubbing noise as the tire grabs the fenders.

Thanks again for the help and if anyone else has any other pointers or pictures that would be great.

Billy

 

[Inv4drZm]

Awesome, thanks for the pictures!

I did not think about the splash guards covering the engine. Thanks for bringing that up.

I need to add this body lift due to the fact i am getting slight rubbing when the truck is in certain departure angles and the wheels will snag the wheel well in both the front and the back. It is not bad, but it makes the traction control sensors beep and then i hear a little rubbing noise as the tire grabs the fenders.

Thanks again for the help and if anyone else has any other pointers or pictures that would be great.

Billy

I'll just add that your OPOR sliders and any other bolt-on sliders people have before adding a BL will be lower from the body the amount of your BL. Some people won't care about the aesthetic difference and some could use a .5" BL to space them down to keep from rubbing on the body. You might be able to get a bolt-on slider built to accommodate a BL but I personally wouldn't deal with that hassle and having to worry about the bolts lining up.

Weld-on sliders really are the way to go with BL's. For my 1.5" BL, I'm pretty sure Stubbs angled the legs up higher so they wouldn't mount above my frame- they were only 1/4" from the top. I welded those babies 1/4" lower than my back door flare when it swings out. So much clearance.

Also, with my 1.5" BL, there was no way I could manage to stretch the front bumper and mount it like factory. I had to move up a set of studs on the factory frame mount so its only being held on by 4 bolts instead of 6 but it's not going anywhere.

 

[blackoutt]

Body lift will probably help, if you still have an issue after some other options are to find where it snags and start cutting pounding and/or lower your bump stops to prevent that much stuffing. I'm thinking I need to get different rear bump stops and remove rear mudflaps because I stuff so hard I pull the mudflap up over the tire and can lock up the tire/activate traction aids/lose all momentum.

Here's the liner.

 

[HiVel-JR]

I'll just add that your OPOR sliders and any other bolt-on sliders people have before adding a BL will be lower from the body the amount of your BL. .
Also, with my 1.5" BL, there was no way I could manage to stretch the front bumper and mount it like factory. I had to move up a set of studs on the factory frame mount so its only being held on by 4 bolts instead of 6 but it's not going anywhere.

I thought about that, and the sliders i think will look decent. If not I will drill new holes and remount.

I purchased the one inch body lift, so I don't think the appearance will be too drastic???

When I was searching I did see the post about moving the bumper up to use 4 bolts instead of 6. I thought that was pretty clever.

 

[techoguy]

I thought about that, and the sliders i think will look decent. If not I will drill new holes and remount.

I purchased the one inch body lift, so I don't think the appearance will be too drastic???

When I was searching I did see the post about moving the bumper up to use 4 bolts instead of 6. I thought that was pretty clever.

Hi HiVel-JR
How'd the body lift turn out? Do you like it? I'm thinking of doing this now too. Do you have pictures?

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

 

[HiVel-JR]

Hi HiVel-JR
How'd the body lift turn out? Do you like it? I'm thinking of doing this now too. Do you have pictures?

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

I chickened out.... I look at the box of bolts everyday.

Maybe this summer i will install it.... dunno.

I did do more research on installing it and the way i want to install it requires that i replace all the original rubber spacers with new fresh rubber spacers.... which i know does not need to be done, but my OCD will not let me get by with it. : )

 

[bassmacka]

heres mine with 3.5 inches of suspension and a 1" 4crawler body lift right after i put my 35x12.50s on it

Any rubbing? did you body mount chop? What is the exact tire size 285/75/17?

 

[techoguy]

I chickened out.... I look at the box of bolts everyday.

Maybe this summer i will install it.... dunno.

I did do more research on installing it and the way i want to install it requires that i replace all the original rubber spacers with new fresh rubber spacers.... which i know does not need to be done, but my OCD will not let me get by with it. : )

Why would you replace the original rubber mounts and where were you going to get them? Curious if I should be ready to do the same when I do my BL. Thanks!

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

 

[Inv4drZm]

Why would you replace the original rubber mounts and where were you going to get them? Curious if I should be ready to do the same when I do my BL. Thanks!

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

I chickened out.... I look at the box of bolts everyday.

Maybe this summer i will install it.... dunno.

I did do more research on installing it and the way i want to install it requires that i replace all the original rubber spacers with new fresh rubber spacers.... which i know does not need to be done, but my OCD will not let me get by with it. : )

You're talking about the original body mount bushings correct?
[MENTION=66389]BlackWorksInc[/MENTION] replaced his, it's in his build thread. They are actually expensive.

 

[HiVel-JR]

You're talking about the original body mount bushings correct?

[MENTION=66389]BlackWorksInc[/MENTION] replaced his, it's in his build thread. They are actually expensive.

Yes the original body mount bushings. They probably and more than likely do not need to be replaced, but I figured why not. I am there pulling the car apart and replacing the bolt already... why not swap out the OEM bushings..., and yes they are expensive and you have to open up the "parts" book and look up the part numbers.

I am still on the fence with the whole project. Not sure i really want to spend a day and the money messing with it. I think BlackWorksInc has a build with the part numbers and the costs too.

 

[blackoutt]

Based on other peoples input (and looking at the bushings) it seems like for some reason only the very front 2 bushings get compressed. The rest didn't look to be saggy at all, looking at the ridges on them and how close together they are compared to pictures of new. I opted to replace my front two bushings only at time of body lift install. Install took maybe 3 hours with the help of a buddy. It was really pretty simple.

 

[HiVel-JR]

Based on other peoples input (and looking at the bushings) it seems like for some reason only the very front 2 bushings get compressed. The rest didn't look to be saggy at all, looking at the ridges on them and how close together they are compared to pictures of new. I opted to replace my front two bushings only at time of body lift install. Install took maybe 3 hours with the help of a buddy. It was really pretty simple.

Any hints to ease the install? (I am guessing Buddy + Beer is a good start)

Any negatives or headaches develop post body lift?


I may end up doing this mod after looking through your post.

 

[BlackWorksInc]

Yes the original body mount bushings. They probably and more than likely do not need to be replaced, but I figured why not. I am there pulling the car apart and replacing the bolt already... why not swap out the OEM bushings..., and yes they are expensive and you have to open up the "parts" book and look up the part numbers.

I am still on the fence with the whole project. Not sure i really want to spend a day and the money messing with it. I think BlackWorksInc has a build with the part numbers and the costs too.

The front two body mounts (the ones next to the firewall and radiator support) seemed to be the most worn out when I changed mine out. I don't remember if I took pictures. Basically the No.1 Body Mounts were just trashed, torn and barely together. The No. 2 Body Mounts were worn and you could tell they had been allowing stuff to work it's way under the rubber between the frame and bushing.

It's probably not a bad idea to replace them all (as pricey as it is) if you're doing a body lift on a 10yr/100k+ vehicle.

 

[HiVel-JR]

It's probably not a bad idea to replace them all (as pricey as it is) if you're doing a body lift on a 10yr/100k+ vehicle.

I had a feeling you would say that. Ha! : )

AND have no arguments.

 

[blackoutt]

Hints are: Buy a good kit, I got mine from a 3rd gen member on here who said he made a 4th gen kit but it was for sure not optimized bolt size/length for 4th gen nor for my 1" lift height. He was also not cooperative at all in helping me figure that out. Luckily I was able to drill out his front two blocks and use his bolts cut down for those, stock bolts for the rest. Edit: now I remember you have the toytec kit already, you're golden.

Hardest parts of the install were literally getting the grocery bag hooks off to pry aside the rear cargo interior panels, and releasing clips on the front bumper. Bumpers stretched over the 1" body lift no problem. Radiator shroud pushed down as far as it can and no contact with the fan, no mounting adapters needed. No steering shaft extension needed, only issue I have there is one of the bolt heads rubbing on the Doug Thorley header so I had to use a different headed bolt and grind it down but that's a personal problem. Basically it's as easy as a job can get once you get all the interior removed to get down to the bolts. PB blaster and an impact gun makes quick work of the actual body lift install. You only do one side at a time so just be careful and it'll all line right back up with where you removed it. I followed the write up on toyota120, it was pretty solid other than they did more work to fit the larger blocks.

As far as body mounts go, I can see the argument to replace them all on our "old" vehicles. I'm cheap and only "fixed what was broken" /worn with the front ones, so take a look at yours. If you don't wheel it hard or have terrible roads they might be fine. I also think I saved a couple cents with Febest brand over OEM. 20k miles and they still look new.

 

[HiVel-JR]

Hints are:

Appreciate the time spent on your post. That does help me.

What i really want to do is get my Doug Thorley Headers installed....
(you mentioned yours)
So far they just sit under my workbench collecting dust.

Thanks again, Billy