4th Gen JBL wire harness help needed

[rscecil007]

All,

I need a little help with the stereo install. I’ve got a 07 Limited with the JBL Synthesis system in it, and I’m going to completely gut the entire thing. I’ve been doing a ton of research and google-fu, but coming up empty.

All I need is a harness that lets me tap into the stock Battery, Ground, and ACC wires for my Pioneer HU. And I do not want to splice into the factory stuff, should I ever have a reason to return everything to stock.

I’m my 06 Tacoma (previous vehicle to the 4R), I had all the following:

Pioneer PRS-800 head unit
JL HD 900/5 amp
Hyrbrid Audio L1V1 tweets
Hybrid Audio L6 SE mids
JL 13TW5 sub

I plan on putting all that into the 4R. Problem I’m running into is that it seems no one makes a wire harness to completely skip the JBL system. Seems there is either a) a harness to use a non-factory head unit with the stock JBL amp/speakers/etc, or b) a harness to skip the JBL amp.

Does a harness like I need exist?

Thanks for any and all help, I appreciate it.

 

[Rhoov1]

Try the Metra 70-8117. It is an amp bypass for Toyota JBL systems. I have also included the wire diagram for the 4Runner with JBL.

 

[A/V1]

I'm selling one of these connectors in the for sale section. (cheap)..

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/sale-...ap-paintball-flash-hider-etc-mckinney-tx.html

I did the same thing. Have JBL, but the only thing that's OEM now, is the sub enclosure.

 

[rscecil007]

Try the Metra 70-8117. It is an amp bypass for Toyota JBL systems. I have also included the wire diagram for the 4Runner with JBL.

Thanks. So I suppose I could use this, cut off most of the 17 feet (!!!) of cable that's supposed to run to the amp, and just use the end that connects to the factory head unit plug.

 

[A/V1]

Thanks. So I suppose I could use this, cut off most of the 17 feet (!!!) of cable that's supposed to run to the amp, and just use the end that connects to the factory head unit plug.

How's it going? I don't know where you are getting your 17' figure, but this is just a 6"- 10" pigtail that is used basically for what you are wanting to do LOL.

This pigtail has unterminated wires that will be spliced to your after-market head unit's harness. It just so happens to have the RCAs there as well for the amp bypass. What I have done on other pigtails I've used is, de-pin the wires I don't need (ie, the RCAs), so there is less clutter behind the radio. There may also be less confusion in the future if you pull your radio out some time, and see a bunch of RCAs hanging there.

The pigtail then simply plugs into the OEM plug for your power & ground.

:cheers:

 

[Rhoov1]

To add on to what A/V1 stated, the speaker wires provided off the bypass harness will now go directly to the speakers in the truck and bypass the JBL amp so you can either use the headunits speaker output and use its internal amp or you can extent the speaker wires from the harness to where ever you want to install an aftermarket amp for your highs and get real power to your speakers, which from your stated equipment, is what you are gonna do. If the JL is small enough mount it under the drivers seat. You will only have to extend about 6 feet of speaker wire tops.

My Phoenix Gold Ti 5 channel under my drivers seat putting out 150W rms to each of my 4 speakers and 950W rms to my 2-12" subs. Fits perfect and takes up no useable space.

 

[Rhoov1]

Keep in mind mine is in a 3rd gen so you might not have the same room under seat.

 

[rscecil007]

Mine is a 4th gen, but I think there's still room, it's a really small amp, smaller than the pics of yours.

I got the 17ft from looking up the Metra 8117 harness you mentioned, or at least that's what Crutchfield said (204" or something.)

I wouldn't need to use the speaker wires out of the harness at all though. RCA's come out of my headunit (no amplified power, I turn it off) and go to the amp, then speaker wires out of the amp.

So is the Metra harness and the one A/V1 has the same on the end that plugs into the factory harness at the headunit? I searched the one one A/V1 has, but couldn't find any info on it.

 

[A/V1]

Keep in mind mine is in a 3rd gen so you might not have the same room under seat.

I saw your amp under your seat, and wondered "How'd he get that amp to clear the seat", but then I noticed the 4wd lever in the console... :doh:

But yeah, I just ran new speaker wire to each door, and RCAs (& power) to the amp for my sub. One thing I wish I'd done, is actually REMOVE all the OEM audio wiring. It wouldn't be that difficult, especially when installing, and it will leave your wire tracks in the door sills a lot less crowded. I have absolutely ZERO intention of ever going OEM again. :thumb:

 

[Rhoov1]

You will need the speaker wires because they lead directly to each speaker in the doors which you will need for the JL to produce sound. It makes no sense to rewire the whole truck when the factory speaker wires are fine for 99% of the installs out there. And in over 20 years of professional installs I have only seen a handful of cars with "bad" factory wiring.

Easy, plug in 8117 into factory harness, wire pwr gnd and acc, pwr antenna and remote with an extended remote power lead( long enough for your new amp location) to pioneers harness. Tape off the pioneers speaker wires and do not use. Take 8117 speaker plug and extend wires long enough to get to new amp location. Run RCA's from pioneer to new amp location. Run batt power from battery (fused at battery) to new amp location. Ground new amp less than 18" from new amp.

 

[Rhoov1]

Removing "factory" wiring is practically impossible as the factory harness is loomed and taped and tied and bundled with everything else in the car.

 

[Rhoov1]

With the seat in.

 

[A/V1]

Removing "factory" wiring is practically impossible as the factory harness is loomed and taped and tied and bundled with everything else in the car.

It's really not that difficult

 

[A/V1]

You will need the speaker wires because they lead directly to each speaker in the doors which you will need for the JL to produce sound. It makes no sense to rewire the whole truck when the factory speaker wires are fine for 99% of the installs out there. And in over 20 years of professional installs I have only seen a handful of cars with "bad" factory wiring.

Easy, plug in 8117 into factory harness, wire pwr gnd and acc, pwr antenna and remote with an extended remote power lead( long enough for your new amp location) to pioneers harness. Tape off the pioneers speaker wires and do not use. Take 8117 speaker plug and extend wires long enough to get to new amp location. Run RCA's from pioneer to new amp location. Run batt power from battery (fused at battery) to new amp location. Ground new amp less than 18" from new amp.

The plug I have takes care of the power portion of his dilemma. Which was what he was asking about in the first part of his first post.

Running new wiring to the doors from the head unit isn't necessary, but if you are replacing speakers, it is better than piecing it together with adapters. One reason install kits, pigtails, & adapters were designed was for install shops to get the most installs done as quickly as possible, and out the door as quickly as possible. Most bang for the buck. Of course, Shadetree installers can take advantage as well.

Sure if you aren't replacing speaks, use an adapter & OEM wires. If you are going into the doors anyway, run new wiring. Just because you can use an adapter doesn't mean it's the best answer. It all depends on whether you feel comfortable as well replacing everything. Judging by your previous install, the OP should be more than able to do this.

Seriously not trying to get into a pissing match here, but I too have been installing for about the last 15 - 20 years. Granted, not MECP certified, but I'm far from an amateur. "Rewiring the whole truck" is a bit of an exaggeration with a head unit, one amp, speaks & sub. Simple install.

 

[rscecil007]

I attached a pic of my amp under the front seat of my Tacoma when it was installed. Super small. Shouldn't be a problem getting it under the 4R seat, just have to elevate it/work around the air vent.

As for the OEM wiring, I do not want to rip it out or anything. I left all the OEM wiring in when I did the Tacoma install, and that made it extremely easy to re-install the factory stuff when I pulled out my aftermarket gear and sold the Tacoma.

And please don't take offense, but there's no way I'm running that much high end gear and using the stock speaker wire. It's not hard to run new wires and won't take an hour to do. Plus I'll be pulling alot of the interior out anyway to do some sound deadening.

Thank you both for the help though, I do appreciate it!

 

[A/V1]

I attached a pic of my amp under the front seat of my Tacoma when it was installed. Super small. Shouldn't be a problem getting it under the 4R seat, just have to elevate it/work around the air vent.

As for the OEM wiring, I do not want to rip it out or anything. I left all the OEM wiring in when I did the Tacoma install, and that made it extremely easy to re-install the factory stuff when I pulled out my aftermarket gear and sold the Tacoma.

And please don't take offense, but there's no way I'm running that much high end gear and using the stock speaker wire. It's not hard to run new wires and won't take an hour to do. Plus I'll be pulling alot of the interior out anyway to do some sound deadening.

Thank you both for the help though, I do appreciate it!

That's a nice, compact amp. You shouldn't have any problem at all mounting that under the T4Rs seats.

If I may offer an option when it comes to routing the RCAs & speaker wiring (other than down the sides).... The center console actually has room to run them to the underseat areas, IF you are willing to notch the bottom side of the console to run the wiring through.
My current set-up has my sub amp mounted in back, which is the only amp I'm using now. But I also pre-wired the underseat area for another amp for my front & rear speaks, for when I add that. It worked out nicely. I sleeved the wiring & RCAs in snake skin expandable sleeving too, so it's nice & neat, as well as protected. Power was run conventionally (down the side, to avoid noise induction).

Anyway, just my $.02. You obviously know what you are doing. Let me know if you do need that power plug adapter. :rockon:

 

[supernukes]

2007 4runner JBL Synthesis front door speaker OHM??????

I have researched this forum for hours but cannot find a definitive answer to the simple question. What is the OHMs of the front door tweeter and woofer. I know it says 2 ohms everywhere but it is also said they are wired in parallel meaning the load would be 1 ohm. I don't believe JBl put an amp in the system that can run at 1 ohm. I want to replace the front door tweeter with an aftermarket JBL 2 Ohm tweeter JBL GTO17T and the front door woofer with a 4 ohm KENWOOD KFC-X183C 7" will this setup work and not overpush the existing amp??? Thanks in advance for any insight or advice.

 

[supernukes]

It will work...actually perfectly

I just finished putting the JBL GTO17T (eBay) tweeters in my 4runner. SUPER EASY they come with a star shaped adapter that I just drilled new holes in the tweeter mounting bracket and they mounted right up. I left the factory crossover in place and used it. I also replaced the front door 6x9's with the Kenwood Excelon KFC-X183Cinch coaxial....and the factory amp drives it perfectly. I think that the original system had 4 ohm 6x9's and 4 Ohm tweeters so in parallel the load is 2 ohm.....I was concerned also but the kenwoods and GTO tweeters are amazing. One word of caution make sure you use all the foam trim especially the piece that goes between the speaker and door panel...... With the speaker upgrades so far I am almost done.....anymore would be a waste.......

 

[gigiandgogo]

Speaker impedance in JBL System

I have researched this forum for hours but cannot find a definitive answer to the simple question. What is the OHMs of the front door tweeter and woofer. I know it says 2 ohms everywhere but it is also said they are wired in parallel meaning the load would be 1 ohm. I don't believe JBl put an amp in the system that can run at 1 ohm. I want to replace the front door tweeter with an aftermarket JBL 2 Ohm tweeter JBL GTO17T and the front door woofer with a 4 ohm KENWOOD KFC-X183C 7" will this setup work and not overpush the existing amp??? Thanks in advance for any insight or advice.

I know this is an older thread, but thought this may help in case someone else is looking for this information.

The factory speakers are 2 ohm impedance. Each channel of the amplifier will see ~2 ohms/ channel. They can state that the speakers are wired in parallel because the tweeter and mid in the front doors are ran that way, but with the capacitor on the tweeter, the impedance will stay close to the same over the given frequency range. If you use passive crossovers on a channel, the impedance doesn't halve like it does if you are running two (or more) speakers in the same frequency range.

So each channel of the amp will "see" a 2 ohm load.

 

[Opticsharp99]

Wiring a Pioneer FH-S51BT to a 2007 Toyota 4runner Sr5

My husband and I decided to cut the factory wires in the 4runner and we have no clue which wires goes to what. What wire colors are what for a 07 4runner sr5 that is non jbl?