4th Gen speaker replacement question

[Ultraphage]

I ended up keeping the 2-ohm amp and replacing the sub, and the larger speakers in the doors with 2-ohm crutchfield cheapies (powerbass?). I left the “tweeters” that were stock. Originally it sounded a little better, but quiet, then realized I forgot to adjust the little in-set dial on the amp junction box (forgot the real name of those things) you must purchase to connect an aftermarket head unit to the 4-runner factory system.

Now the only issue I have, is I think there is a little too much higher end in my music. I wonder if I could disable the center dash speaker, if that would fix that? I also sometimes have some knocking around in the sub enclosure with some low end heavy songs. Other than that, my car sounds decent, can get fairly loud, and is fairly well rounded. I bought a $100 head unit, 4 speakers, a couple of wiring harnesses, and the units that allow you to use the stock amp and steering wheel controls—-all under$300. Maybe 2 hours of work if you have a little helper putting it back together as your replacing. Well worth it.

 

[dsanford]

I just got into my 4Runner today and opened a can of worms that just kept getting worse. Now the only thing holding me back is undoing the crossover and speaker setup the previous owner had. If anyone has the OEM speaker and OEM tweeter connections, that would really help. The OEM connections in my setup have been cut. Yes I could wire them directly but I’m just not into cutting the factory harness and can hopefully put those connections back. If anyone knows who might have some, or where I could get these connections. Are these a common used connection I could scavenge off another Toyota model, or a different generation 4Runner?

 

[dsanford]

Update on the last post.

Got the dash pulled apart, crossed my fingers and toes the whole time hoping I didn’t find a cut harness behind there.

Started removing the crusty half functional Alpine head unit, as soon as I removed it from it’s home I found what would take me the rest of the day to fix.
First I saw three sets of RCAs, and a particularly cut harness.

After unplugging the Alpine head unit, I knew I wanted to get all the aftermarket wiring out of there before I installed the new Sony head unit. That’s where things got interesting. I went through the glovebox and found a pamphlet and instruction manual for a Apline KTP-445U (Head Unit Power Pack). I presume this is what was used to have the factory amplifier power a subwoofer. I spent the rest of the day undoing what was done here.

 

[dsanford]

Once I got everything opened up I was able to see what needed to be fixed. I pulled all the previous extra wiring and fixed at the wire taps at the amplifier. The harness wasn’t plugged into the amplifier. During the removal of all this I found a Alpine KTP-445U (Head Unit Power Pack). I assume this is what was used for the external amp and sub. I was on the look out for this thing because I found the pamphlet and install instructions in the glove box. Then I set off putting together the harness for the new Sony head unit. I used the Axxess TYTO-01 and ASWC-1. The steering wheel controls didn’t work with the previous head unit. The dash kit I used was the Metra 95-8210. Turned out looking pretty good I think. And now I have the peace of mind knowing I cleaned it up and restored what I didn’t like.

 

[dsanford]

The there were a few gripes I had about the install.
First, the Axxess TYTO-01 has a potentiometer for audio level adjustment. This adjustment is almost useless. Directions say to turn the radio volume to 3/4 and adjust the potentiometer to get the desired loudness. When I did this, the audio was awful. Way too much power going to the speakers. So I adjust the potentiometer, and the audio had this pulsing effect as if someone was turning the volume up and down slightly.
Second, the sturdiness of the Metra kit is okay once it is in the dash but applying the dash kit, you have to be careful not to over do the screws holding the dash kit to the head unit. Also, if you’re not thinking ahead, you can really get the depth of the face all wrong. Thankfully I thought about this before I put the entire dash back together. It came out pretty good I think.

Lastly, back to the audio quality. I was curious why the speakers sounded so bad, I was planning on changing the front door speakers for now. Once I got the door panel off, I realized why it sounded so bad. The previous owner either paid someone to install a crossover and component speaker set of did it them self half ass. I the lower door speaker wasn’t even hooked up and the crossover was held on with hook and loop in the recess of the door. The factory speaker harness had been cut (typical for crossover and component install), and sound deadening had been lathered on behind the door panel. So now, I have to wire the speakers direct until I can’t find the OEM male and female side of the speaker harness and I’ll have to really put in some elbow work to remove the sound deadening so I can reapplying how I would like it (between the inner and outer skin of the door)
Any questions are welcome. This isn’t technically a write up but instead more a first time experience working on the 4Runner and what I went through.

I almost forgot, one good thing I did find while I was in there was a Code Alarm CA5053 and FlashLogic FLCAN ADS. I did not receive a remote for it but I found the correct remote online and waiting to see if the system still works and if I also inherited a remote start with this vehicle.

 

[daltona117]

Just want to replace the factory speakers and I want to stick with the 2ohm system. Replaced the subwoofer a few months ago, now I want to get the rest of the system done.
Haven't purchased a new head unit yet, but I know exactly what I want to get.
Yes, I will do the sound deadening on the doors, the materials are on order already.

Did some research in the last few days and I got an answer to some of my questions and decided to stick with the 2ohm system because an upgrade to a comparable 4 ohm system would take significantly more work and money and the outcome wouldn't be that much better. I picked a decent head unit with Bluetooth and usb connectivity which will do exactly what I need.

The only thing I have to find out at this point is that if there are more selection of 2ohm speakers out there somewhere besides Crutchfield.

Did you do a direct replacement for the factory sub? I have the JBL system in mine and the sub is blown. Curious to see what you replaced yours with.

 

[dsanford]

I did not end up doing a sub replacement. There was existing wiring that someone else added for a sub enclosure and amp. I removed all that wiring and repaired what was changed. Much to my surprise, the factory sub still worked. From what I’ve read on the forums, the sub is commonly blown. Later down the road a sub upgrade may be in the cards but it works great for myself so far.

 

[dsanford]

There are some great resources on here about upgrading the sub that I’ve read but didn’t save the thread. If I come across those threads again I’ll post the link here for you. From what I recall, there is a Kicker model that works great in the factory location with minor modification.

 

[Fontan]

There are some great resources on here about upgrading the sub that I’ve read but didn’t save the thread. If I come across those threads again I’ll post the link here for you. From what I recall, there is a Kicker model that works great in the factory location with minor modification.

Do you know the kicker model off hand that you're referring to?

 

[Fontan]

1. The front speakers are 6x9 ovals, the only crossover is a bipolar capacitor in line with one of the tweeter leads. You can upgrade to a better 6x9 or use an adapter to fit a 6.5" round speaker. The front speakers are not 2 way because of the separate tweeter however you can disable the tweeter and use a 2 way 6x9, one or the other.
2. Rear speakers are 6.5" round and there is no tweeter. The rears are kind of hard to hear because of the seat arrangement.
3. I would recommend keeping the speaker impedance the same for front and rear. The instructions that came with your head unit should tell you what resistance the speakers should be.
4. All speakers have plugs but they may be hard to adapt to aftermarket speakers.
Hope this answers your questions.

I am sure you know what you're talking about. Crutchfield is recommending 5.25 for the rear doors (2007) but maybe that is just due to the mounting depth? When I add 6.5 (JL audio C1 650s to the cart it says the mounting depth is 2.5 but that is shallower than the toyota rear door cut-out.