4th Gen Suspension Options/FAQ

I've read about it, but haven't found a thread showing pictures. I know its in a cross oattern, but apparently there are disconnect points. I'm sure I could get under and find them, but I would rather make sure. I did think about getting rid of the system, but didnt know how good the system was. The suspension still feels good and not bouncy. But it's paid off now so looking to modify it some.

Talked to Tanner at toytec lifts and pretty much decided on the icon stage 2 kit. But that was before I started reading about all the XREAS stuff. But, after more readings, it seems many have taken it off and havent looked back. May just stay on track to get the stage 2 kit.

Deputy,

During my own research on this topic I found this post about XREAS removal. I think it's pretty decent. Maybe it will help? Good luck.

I finally got to replace the damn X-REAS! - TTORA Forum
 
Help...please...My appologies if I am being perceived as a nuisance or otherwise, but I'm not getting any feedback or thoughts on my suspension upgrade, for my 2004 V8 Sport T4R, from any of the great minds on this forum. I've spent countless hours searching and planning over the last 3 weeks (driving my wife crazy (-: ),but some answers are still eluding me. I'm doing this in 2 weeks, so perhaps someone (Ark, T-Man, Bueler, anyone????) can share tips/tricks to separate lower ball joints without trashing lbj or cv boots.

Thanks in advance for any tips/tricks anyone is willing to share.

FWIW I am 90% sure I'm going with
OME 885 springs with 90021 struts and trim spacer in front
Toytec Superflex RCC 2.0HD springs with OME 60020 struts in back
+ Reusing my Airlift 1000 bags (Air Lift confirmed will work if spring ID's are close) for heavier loads and towing.
 
Help...please...My appologies if I am being perceived as a nuisance or otherwise, but I'm not getting any feedback or thoughts on my suspension upgrade, for my 2004 V8 Sport T4R, from any of the great minds on this forum. I've spent countless hours searching and planning over the last 3 weeks (driving my wife crazy (-: ),but some answers are still eluding me. I'm doing this in 2 weeks, so perhaps someone (Ark, T-Man, Bueler, anyone????) can share tips/tricks to separate lower ball joints without trashing lbj or cv boots.

Thanks in advance for any tips/tricks anyone is willing to share.

FWIW I am 90% sure I'm going with
OME 885 springs with 90021 struts and trim spacer in front
Toytec Superflex RCC 2.0HD springs with OME 60020 struts in back
+ Reusing my Airlift 1000 bags (Air Lift confirmed will work if spring ID's are close) for heavier loads and towing.

You should be able to suspend the uca up a couple inches, take off bolt to the balljoint, then whack the hell out of the knuckle next to the balljoint to release it. BFH is your friend here.
If you mean get the balljoint out of the lca to replace then you need to get a special tool for it. There's a couple threads about that and it's a pita.
Why do you need to separate the balljoint?
 
You should be able to suspend the uca up a couple inches, take off bolt to the balljoint, then whack the hell out of the knuckle next to the balljoint to release it. BFH is your friend here.
If you mean get the balljoint out of the lca to replace then you need to get a special tool for it. There's a couple threads about that and it's a pita.
Why do you need to separate the balljoint?

Thank you T-Man!!!!

It is my understanding, per instructions from Toytec and a couple posts on this forum, that you need to remove the 2 lbj bolts and separate the ball joint to replace the front coils/struts. Is this not accurate, or is there a way to do this mod without separating lbj?

https://www.toyteclifts.com/images/stories/pdf_files/OME-FJ4Rr2.pdf
 
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Thank you T-Man!!!!

It is my understanding, per instructions from Toytec and a couple posts on this forum, that you need to remove the 2 lbj bolts and separate the ball joint to replace the front coils/struts. Is this not accurate, or is there a way to do this mod without separating lbj?

https://www.toyteclifts.com/images/stories/pdf_files/OME-FJ4Rr2.pdf
Oh gotcha! Yes, remove the two bolts that are on either side of the balljoint, all the way on the bottom. Do NOT remove the balljoint, it comes off with those two bolts and stays connected to the lca. Really easy to do once you look under there. I can't remember if they are 17 or 19mm. You will also need to unbolt the sway bar link so you can move the knuckle out if your way. I use a piece of 2x4 to hold the knuckle up out of my way so it's not dangling pulling on the brake hose. You could use rope or bungee straps too. Don't let it just dangle. Once you remove the 3 nuts on top of the strut tower and the 1 bolt at the bottom you can finangle the strut assembly out between the cv axle and tie rod. It'll fit, wiggle the knuckle around. Then it's out and you can swap parts.
 
Thank you T-Man!!!!

That helps a lot. I'm planning on taking pics along the way so stay tuned for another OME suspension upgrade. FWIW - I'm planning on sharing lift measurements albeit from 12 year old stock springs and a Daystar kit to new OME/Toytec lift.
 
Thank you T-Man!!!!

That helps a lot. I'm planning on taking pics along the way so stay tuned for another OME suspension upgrade. FWIW - I'm planning on sharing lift measurements albeit from 12 year old stock springs and a Daystar kit to new OME/Toytec lift.

Make your own build thread and post everything up! :girl:
 
Icons fronts and OEM rear air bags?

Ok, I'll admit I have not read the thousands of pages in the suspension guide. But I am working on it.

Anyway, my wife's 05 GX470 has 100K on the clock and I want to change the shocks. Eventually this vehicle will be mine and I want to lift it. So I was thinking about installing an icon stage one suspension but only installing the front coilovers (set at 0) and the rear shocks and keep the airbag system for now. The idea would be to give her a stock (or better) ride with built in upgradeability.

Anyone currently running this setup?
 
I've been trying to make heads or tails of a lot of this stuff since I bought my truck last winter. The plan was originally to lift it before the end of last summer, but I decided to do Phish summer tour instead. I'm back to shopping though, as my rear shocks are shot and rusted. I'm looking at a 3" lift. I'd probably toss myself in the category of "mall crawling with occasional trail usage". It wasn't until after I'd bought my truck that I realized that perhaps it would have been better to just by a car, and then buy a beater 1st gen that I could have given a serious lift job to, but instead I must take in careful consideration the delicate balance between on-road comfort, handling, and gas mileage and off-road capability.

From what I've largely taken away from my research (as someone with ADHD, a lot of this is like learning a new language and feels very overwhelming at times) is that price isn't necessarily the driving factor in making a purchase, but moreso in "What Best Suits My Needs". While it should be noted that I am not trying to spend a fortune on this, I'm also not trying to be cheap either. I don't want to have to think about replacing suspension components again for a long time. That being said, it's worth noting that I'm considering more upgrades that will add weight to the vehicle, so I need to consider a suspension system that will maintain in its height in the face of a couple hundred pounds in metal being added to the vehicle over the next few years (Namely an aftermarket bumper and sliders).

I've mostly been looking the stuff offered from OME, Toytec, and Icon. I'm also trying to figure out what best suits my needs in terms of new UCA's. I've been perusing the other thread on the FJ site, the UCA buying guide, but still have trouble figuring out what best suits my needs.

I guess to sum it up, I'm thinking of adding sliders and a more heavy duty bumper over time, am interesting in getting the vehicle up 3" and level via the suspension. I live in the Northeast of the country, in PA, so I primarily will be riding trails in the PA/NJ/NY/VA/WV sort of areas, but I do venture out west (and will be returning to Moab this summer) occasionally, so while I'm not doing the craziest of rock crawling, I am doing more (and interested in doing more) than just driving down a sand or dirt trail. I don't want something that's gonna sag instantly (or worse, sag considerably after gaining the extra weight), so a lower lift with a longer life might be worth my interest more (this being from my takeway from OME's claims that their 2.5" lift will maintain its lift more reliably than other companies 3" lifts, etc). I'm not trying to spend a fortune, but I'm not trying to be cheap, so all options considered here. Happy to do some mix and match buying as opposed to a "complete kit" if I'm better helped to understand exactly what I need to make the puzzle pieces fit so to speak.

I'm not asking people to shop or pick parts for me per se, I'm asking people to help me understand what sort of things I should consider when purchasing parts based on my needs so I don't spend too much or too little, or overlook something important. This is all really new to me, and still very overwhelming with so much information on the topic on the front page. Hopefully I made some sense! haha

I've got a 2003 SR5
 
Hello,
I have recently installed Bilstein 5100's all around with OME 885/896 Springs.
Currently have about 2 inches higher in the rear, I want it to sit even and I plan on added a front bumper soon. My question is how much Spacer can I safely add to the front setup that wont make the drive fill unsafe and still feel good and stable. Also at the highest possible I understand I will need to add new UCA's and extended brakelines, I have already done the swaybar relocation.
Thank you for your time and any information!
Christian
 
I just got a 2006 limited with old stock suspension - I want to add a 1.5-2inch lift all around and keep the factory rake. Here are my options:

Front - 5100 Bils set at 1.75 w/ stock coils OR OME 883's coils with OME struts. (Exp 1.75 - 2inch)

Back - Bil 5100 shocks W/ OME 895E coils (Exp. 1.5-2inch)

I've heard a bit of everything but what should I expect on this lift combo set up?
 
Hello,
I have recently installed Bilstein 5100's all around with OME 885/896 Springs.
Currently have about 2 inches higher in the rear, I want it to sit even and I plan on added a front bumper soon. My question is how much Spacer can I safely add to the front setup that wont make the drive fill unsafe and still feel good and stable. Also at the highest possible I understand I will need to add new UCA's and extended brakelines, I have already done the swaybar relocation.
Thank you for your time and any information!
Christian

I'd give ToyTec a call to talk with them about some of their spacer options that are compatible with the OME 885. I have seen many add the 1/2" spacer up front to get an extra 1/2" to 1" of lift.

Front Lifts & Coilovers

In the digging I have done, I think that 896 rear is what is giving you a fit as it is is a bit taller than the 895. Without doing an Icon, Metal Tech, ToyTec Ultimate, etc... coil over you won't have much adjustability to level things out. It might make sense to hang tight until after you install the new bumper to determine exactly how much lift you need to level things out.
 
Bilstein OME mix and match?

I recently had 3rd gen with e 2 to 2.5" lift that really worked out well. I'd like to replicate this lift but on a 4th gen. Heres the idea: Im looking for a 2 to 2.5" lift that will allow me to retain the OE UCAs and such.

set of (4) 5100 Bilstein struts/shocks paired with OME 884s or toytecs on the 5100 1st perch up front for 2" or 2.5"s of lift up front and the OME 895Es on the 5100s in the rear for 1.5". Will this yield rake (rear to front) or level everything out?

Is it OK to mix Bilstein and OME? I know OME sez not too
 
I'd give ToyTec a call to talk with them about some of their spacer options that are compatible with the OME 885. I have seen many add the 1/2" spacer up front to get an extra 1/2" to 1" of lift.

Front Lifts & Coilovers

In the digging I have done, I think that 896 rear is what is giving you a fit as it is is a bit taller than the 895. Without doing an Icon, Metal Tech, ToyTec Ultimate, etc... coil over you won't have much adjustability to level things out. It might make sense to hang tight until after you install the new bumper to determine exactly how much lift you need to level things out.

Thank you for the info, The more it settled the more I am okay with it. I will wait to do spacers until I get the bumper
 
Just got a v8 limited with RAS.. is the original post still correct here:

"If you have RAS, you are limited to a spacer lift in the front only; there are currently no lift kits available for the rear that will work with the factory air bags."

there are still no options for the rear?
 
Just got a v8 limited with RAS.. is the original post still correct here:

"If you have RAS, you are limited to a spacer lift in the front only; there are currently no lift kits available for the rear that will work with the factory air bags."

there are still no options for the rear?
There's a kit for the Lexus gx 470 that eliminates the rear air ride control. Get that and you can run any setup like normal.
 
There's a kit for the Lexus gx 470 that eliminates the rear air ride control. Get that and you can run any setup like normal.

This kit eliminates the control, meaning the electronics ("software") ? or eliminates the entire bag setup ("hardware") ?
 
This kit eliminates the control, meaning the electronics ("software") ? or eliminates the entire bag setup ("hardware") ?
There's a thread on it around here, do some searching. It replaces all the hardware and then I believe everyone is using zip ties to stop the ride control lever from moving. I didn't read much as I didn't have to worry about it. Search for ras elimination.
 

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