4th Gen Suspension Options/FAQ

This is my first post here so please be patient.

#2- USB- or lack of. With a passenger driving 28 hours to Montana, we were in critical need. We had to keep unplugging the Garmin GPS to charge phones- sucked mucho. I saw a write up on adding a dual USB plug that will fit in the blank spots, the guy painted it black to match and it looks great in the pictures.

#3- Suspension, and the main reason for posting. I read all the write ups on the many options. But it seems to me that everything is leaning towards 4WD 4 runners. I love taking a 2WD truck through the mud as well :frisky:. However, I don't plan to with this one. Just some easy trail riding and pulling a boat, going to the beach and so on. I want a firmer ride for highway, stiffer springs and better shocks. Most of my travels are highway time. I contacted Toytechlifts for help after reading all the write ups here. I just want to reduce rake, not concerned with lifting, while getting stiffer springs and better shocks. I also don't want to use a lift kit. Toytechlifts recommends using OME 885 coils and OME90021 shocks for front with OME 60020 shocks for the rear. Looking for thoughts on this setup. :lookout:

Hope I didn't bore everyone to death. :nerd:but I really need help with the suspension question and the TRAC/ VSC mod.

Thanks!

Welcome!
#2. I saw the write up for this mod and it looks easy enough to do. I asked guy here about what he used and he recommended this: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B010KC0JZI/ref=cm_sw_su_dp. I will be looking into this down the road.
#3. If you go OME you will be stiffer, but also at least 3" taller. If you want stiffer without as much lift you might concider the Toytech ultimate as it is a coil over and you can choose the lowest position on the Billies (still lifted, but not forced into 3"). Or, alternatively, you could look at FJ springs with Billies. This will give you a little more height and a little stiffer ride. Your also more likely to need to replace UCA's if you lift greater than 2 1/2-3".

Good luck and enjoy your new to you T4r!
 
Did a tire rotation and check out some things under the truck. .. safe to say Xreas is on its final days.

Ive done some suspension research and heres where im at
Keeping in mind this is my daily driver, I Also offroad in some trails it a few times a year in Rausch creek PA and take it on the beach all summer long. It sees plenty of road salt in the winter living on longisland. I carry a few hundred lbs ( 150- 300) at times in the cargo area but nothing extreme. Looking for blend of ride quality, dependability and offroad performance.
Im either at the full Radflo 2.5 kit front coilovers and rear shocks with springs, with camburg Balljoint UCA's.
Or Radflo 2.5 front coil overs with OME rear shocks and springs? <-- if that works
Open to suggestions.. Ive read and read and read and read.. this is what ive come down too..
 
I'm sure this has likely been covered before, but I'm not able to find it.


Significant ride quality difference between Daystar 1.5" and Toyotec Superflex in the rear?

Currently have the spacer paired with 5100s, debating swapping out the spacer for springs. 100% pavement at this point. ( :( )

TIA!
 
I installed an OME/Toytec 3" lift a little over 1 month ago. I didn't replace sway bar bushings, add a diff drop, or install sway bar relocates.

I'm thinking replacing F and R sway bar bushings, adding the diff drop, and possibly installing a sway bar relocate. I'm not getting any noise from sway bars, but it sounds like it might be good preventative maintenance for the long run. I had my CV's re-packed and new boots done at about 80,000 (I had Daystar leveling kit installed around 20,000). I have 1/2" clearance between sway bar and coil on passenger side, and a little more on drivers side.

Am I wasting money with these upgrades/mods/replacements?
What are your thoughts?
Sway Bar bushings?
Diff drop?
Sway bar relocate?
.
Thanks for looking 4th gen T4r suspension aficionados!
I appreciate your input
 
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I installed an OME/Toytec 3" lift a little over 1 month ago. I didn't replace sway bar bushings, add a diff drop, or install sway bar relocates.

I'm thinking replacing F and R sway bar bushings, adding the diff drop, and possibly installing a sway bar relocate. I'm not getting any noise from sway bars, but it sounds like it might be good preventative maintenance for the long run. I have had my CV's re-packed and new boots done at about 80,000 (I had Daystar leveling kit installed around 20,000). I have 1/2" clearance between sway bar and coil on passenger side, and a little more on drivers side.

Am I wasting money with these upgrades/mods/replacements?
What are your thoughts?
Sway Bar bushings?
Diff drop?
Sway bar relocate?
.
Thanks for looking 4th gen T4r suspension aficionados!
I appreciate your input

I would at a minimum do the diff drop. I did the diff 1" drop when I put the new coils under mine and my CV axles' seem straighter than before. It is nice.. Only thing, I had to buy different longer bolts for the ones that came with the kit I bought didn't fit. no biggie thou, only cost $1 for the bolts and washers from Home Depot.
 
I installed an OME/Toytec 3" lift a little over 1 month ago. I didn't replace sway bar bushings, add a diff drop, or install sway bar relocates.

I'm thinking replacing F and R sway bar bushings, adding the diff drop, and possibly installing a sway bar relocate. I'm not getting any noise from sway bars, but it sounds like it might be good preventative maintenance for the long run. I had my CV's re-packed and new boots done at about 80,000 (I had Daystar leveling kit installed around 20,000). I have 1/2" clearance between sway bar and coil on passenger side, and a little more on drivers side.

Am I wasting money with these upgrades/mods/replacements?
What are your thoughts?
Sway Bar bushings?
Diff drop?
Sway bar relocate?
.
Thanks for looking 4th gen T4r suspension aficionados!
I appreciate your input
Ditch the sway bars. With those stiffer springs it soaks it right up. I haven't looked back since losing mine.
 
I would at a minimum do the diff drop. I did the diff 1" drop when I put the new coils under mine and my CV axles' seem straighter than before. It is nice.. Only thing, I had to buy different longer bolts for the ones that came with the kit I bought didn't fit. no biggie thou, only cost $1 for the bolts and washers from Home Depot.

So a no on the rest? Oddly I'm about to install my lift and have the diff drop kit but wasn't sure on the necessity of the other requirements either. :behindsofa:

Ditch the sway bars. With those stiffer springs it soaks it right up. I haven't looked back since losing mine.

I'm only going slightly stiffer on springs in the rear Totech (non-ultimate) 3" lift. The front has coilovers and the rear has new springs are quoted at ~10-15% stiffer than stock (I forget the exact number). Since it's only a marginal change in the rear stiffness (and who knows what in the front) does it make sense to keep the sway bars? Front/back/both/neither?
 
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I'm only going slightly stiffer on springs in the rear Totech (non-ultimate) 3" lift. The front has coilovers and the rear has new springs are quoted at ~10-15% stiffer than stock (I forget the exact number). Since it's only a marginal change in the rear stiffness (and who knows what in the front) does it make sense to keep the sway bars? Front/back/both/neither?

Ditch the front bar and do this to the rear and you will be good to go (my 2cents of course):

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/141258-custom-ish-extended-rear-sway-bar-links-write-up.html
 
Ditch the front bar and do this to the rear and you will be good to go (my 2cents of course):

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-g...sh-extended-rear-sway-bar-links-write-up.html

I have Tacoma springs in front and FJ springs in rear. As morphius said you could keep just the rear. Honestly I get barely any lean now and I hotrod around corners all the time. It leans slightly, but not excessive or scary in the least.

I'm only going slightly stiffer on springs in the rear Totech (non-ultimate) 3" lift. The front has coilovers and the rear has new springs are quoted at ~10-15% stiffer than stock (I forget the exact number). Since it's only a marginal change in the rear stiffness (and who knows what in the front) does it make sense to keep the sway bars? Front/back/both/neither?
 
Thanks T4r.org friends as I greatly I appreciate your thoughts, opinions, and feedback! This forum rocks.

I'm not sure I'm ready to run without sway bars yet, as my T4r spends 75-80% or more of its time on the highway and it's still the family play vehicle. Perhaps down the road I'll end up without, but for now I think replacing the sb bushings will be a good maintenance decision for low cost. The diff drop is also more or less supported and another low cost preventative maintenance mod as well. I picked them up at Toyteclifts this afternoon on my way home. Time to get under my T4r again during the kids spring break! :jump:
 

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Lol for sure. I was thinking Toytec or OME. Hard to tell the difference from here. What would you suggest? Not limited to those two...

I just lifted mine and I was torn between toytec 2" and ome 895e's. I chose the toyecs for the smoother ride. When paired with 884's up front and 5100's I kept a significant rake. Keep in mind I have the 5100's on the 0" setting as not to preload the 884's. Still trying to decide if the rake is too much. Hope this helps. Good luck!!

Chase





 
what can I do to my suspension to get more articulation and travel out of it while offroading. Particularly in the rear I believe.

my current setup:

front- bilstein 5100s set at 2.5
moog fj coils
stock control arms etc

back- moog fj coils
stock shocks
daystar 1.5 spacer
 
what can I do to my suspension to get more articulation and travel out of it while offroading. Particularly in the rear I believe.

my current setup:

front- bilstein 5100s set at 2.5
moog fj coils
stock control arms etc

back- moog fj coils
stock shocks
daystar 1.5 spacer

Remove your sway bars. That will allow full articulation for the supension you have.
 
My buddies taking my FJA coils and shocks tomorrow remind me without going through 1000's of my notes. the longer coil goes on the driver side for the front or other way around. Brain dart this evening. Sorry
 
This is driving me nuts! I'm so over overthinking this lift stuff. Can someone please tell me which side the longer front coil goes on the front please. I'm turned around crazy tonight from school and confusing myself. He's compressing shocks/coils in the morning and I want it to be correct.
 
This is driving me nuts! I'm so over overthinking this lift stuff. Can someone please tell me which side the longer front coil goes on the front please. I'm turned around crazy tonight from school and confusing myself. He's compressing shocks/coils in the morning and I want it to be correct.
Drivers side of course. We get drivers lean because the battery and gas tank are in that side.
 
This is driving me nuts! I'm so over overthinking this lift stuff. Can someone please tell me which side the longer front coil goes on the front please. I'm turned around crazy tonight from school and confusing myself. He's compressing shocks/coils in the morning and I want it to be correct.
Left front as the gas tank and battery are on the left side of T4R.
 
Thank You. Does that effect Any safety putt driving concerns while on the regular road.

Does having the rear spacer limit travel at all?

Yes, and yes. The removal of sway bars will create more body roll, but many T4R owners have added stiffer springs which help with this. Once you learn new driving characteristics you should be fine (I speaking theoretically based on info here, but my sway bars are still in place for now). Some have gone so far as adding a sway bar quick disconnect so they can have sb's connected on road and disconnected when off road.

The spacer preloads your springs so they can't do as much as without the spacers. This is not a huge limitation, but taller springs will give you more articulation than a shorter spring with spacers.
 

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