4th Gen Suspension Options/FAQ

[wtmtnrunner]

Hmmm

I would check with Wheeler's, I know in some applications you need to run the 5100's with their springs. Also, the kyb's will probably be for stock height and if you add a lift to the rear with the T12's you will overextend those shocks causing premature failure... Finally you can get 5100's or 4600 for almost the same price and certainly under you $600 budget

 

[kingofthehill]

When everyone says that their old suspension "sags" does this usually mean the coil or the shock, or both? If I want to replace one, but not the other, which one would I replace to fix "sag" to return the truck back to its stock height.

It is the spring that causes sag.

I would check with Wheeler's, I know in some applications you need to run the 5100's with their springs. Also, the kyb's will probably be for stock height and if you add a lift to the rear with the T12's you will overextend those shocks causing premature failure... Finally you can get 5100's or 4600 for almost the same price and certainly under you $600 budget

I figured with the rear I would use the shocks I have and replace them later on. They have lifetime warranty so no big deal if they wear out. I will probably go with 5100s but I was wondering what differences there are between the 5100s and 4600s other than the 5100s have more down travel.

 

[jonb2]

... I will probably go with 5100s but I was wondering what differences there are between the 5100s and 4600s other than the 5100s have more down travel.

Besides all the great input you will find here, here is a link from Shockwarehouse with some of the differences. Bilstein 5100 vs Heavy Duty 4600 - Shockwarehouse.com

 

[ryanm123]

I am planning on using my bonus this year to do a lift. I want to budget it around $600 and be able to net at least 2" of lift. Here is my plan: Wheelers T1/T12 springs and Bilstein 5100 or 4600 shocks in front. Not sure on which to go with. I plan on keeping my current shock in the rear (KYBs) because they are brand new (bought 2 months ago). Is this a good combination? has anyone tried something like this? does anyone have any recommendations for this combo?

My truck is literally having the T1/T12 combo with Bilstein 5100s all around put on right now. I’ll update it in this thread.


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[kingofthehill]

My truck is literally having the T1/T12 combo with Bilstein 5100s all around put on right now. I’ll update it in this thread.


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+1. :first: Cool. How do you like the combo? Can you throw ups some pics?

 

[ryanm123]

+1. :first: Cool. How do you like the combo? Can you throw ups some pics?

Welp. Kinda got screwed over the slightest bit. I’m having it done at a local shop and it wasn’t done by their closing time, so they’re finishing it tomorrow morning. Although I will say, I heard a lot of “damn this is a nice kit” and “that 4Runner is gonna be badass once you’re done with it” so I’m so stoked to get it back. Pics coming soon


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[Emperor_Po]

Welp. Kinda got screwed over the slightest bit. I’m having it done at a local shop and it wasn’t done by their closing time, so they’re finishing it tomorrow morning. Although I will say, I heard a lot of “damn this is a nice kit” and “that 4Runner is gonna be badass once you’re done with it” so I’m so stoked to get it back. Pics coming soon


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What setting are the 5100s going to be on? Are you going to use a rear spacer? Got 5100s coming, trying to decide on springs...

 

[ryanm123]

What setting are the 5100s going to be on? Are you going to use a rear spacer? Got 5100s coming, trying to decide on springs...

Got it back today. Looks AMAZING. Just what I wanted out of it. The 5100s are set to 0 because of what I read on the lift of the coils. Everything. Is completely level with the Bilsteins at 0 and the T1/T12 combo. I did have a 1/8” top plate spacer put on the drivers side front top plate. I forgot to take measurements beforehand, so it’s pointless to measure it now, but just by eyeballing it, it looks good and equal all around.


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[jrm]

Just make sure

I am planning on using my bonus this year to do a lift. I want to budget it around $600 and be able to net at least 2" of lift. Here is my plan: Wheelers T1/T12 springs and Bilstein 5100 or 4600 shocks in front. Not sure on which to go with. I plan on keeping my current shock in the rear (KYBs) because they are brand new (bought 2 months ago). Is this a good combination? has anyone tried something like this? does anyone have any recommendations for this combo?

that the kybs are compatible with a 2" lift spring in terms of stroke and damping. You could also go with the t13s in the back..

 

[chris27]

Got it back today. Looks AMAZING. Just what I wanted out of it. The 5100s are set to 0 because of what I read on the lift of the coils. Everything. Is completely level with the Bilsteins at 0 and the T1/T12 combo. I did have a 1/8” top plate spacer put on the drivers side front top plate. I forgot to take measurements beforehand, so it’s pointless to measure it now, but just by eyeballing it, it looks good and equal all around.


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Let's see some photos!

 

[Kram]

Just got my 6112s and icon 2.0 rears with wheelers t-12s on the way. Needing advice if I should do a diff drop and and other advice. Thanks!!

 

[N4RNR]

Diff Drop

I wondered the same thing about the diff drop. The purpose of a diff drop is to lessen the angle at the cv joints. After browsing the forum, it seems people say that the cv angles on our 4runners are not that significant after a 2-3" lift so a diff drop isn't necessary. So I put on a 3" icon lift and looking at my cv joints, they are correct. Only a mild angle (even compared to some stock SUVs). When I jack up the frame and let the a arms hang down freely, the cv angle still isn't that steep. (Which is kind of a bummer, seeing how little the a arms drop at full droop, not the wheel travel I would have hoped, but at least it preserves the cv angle). So in summary, skipping the diff drop, like many have.

 

[theoutbackdream]

I wondered the same thing about the diff drop. The purpose of a diff drop is to lessen the angle at the cv joints. After browsing the forum, it seems people say that the cv angles on our 4runners are not that significant after a 2-3" lift so a diff drop isn't necessary. So I put on a 3" icon lift and looking at my cv joints, they are correct. Only a mild angle (even compared to some stock SUVs). When I jack up the frame and let the a arms hang down freely, the cv angle still isn't that steep. (Which is kind of a bummer, seeing how little the a arms drop at full droop, not the wheel travel I would have hoped, but at least it preserves the cv angle). So in summary, skipping the diff drop, like many have.

On top of this, the diff drop may actually do harm to your driveline by blowing the front diff or pinion up as it angles the diff and may potentially starve the bearings.

 

[Inv4drZm]

On top of this, the diff drop may actually do harm to your driveline by blowing the front diff or pinion up as it angles the diff and may potentially starve the bearings.

I really don't think that has ever happened. If anything it actually helps restore the factory diff angle after you level the truck.

It can help reduce the possibility of CV bind on full droop especially if you have aftermarket CV's or extended travel coilovers.

 

[Kram]

NICe build!!

I really don't think that has ever happened. If anything it actually helps restore the factory diff angle after you level the truck.

It can help reduce the possibility of CV bind on full droop especially if you have aftermarket CV's or extended travel coilovers.

Just looked at your build. What’s up with the rear cat delete? I’m about to replace my whole exhaust but the rear cats. Thanks!

 

[Inv4drZm]

Just looked at your build. What’s up with the rear cat delete? I’m about to replace my whole exhaust but the rear cats. Thanks!

I did that because I had a guy reroute the exhaust so I could mount my skidplates up higher. I think it was easier to just remove the rear cats (the two after the o2 sensors) at the same time. More drone if I remember correctly but sounds good and not any louder than my mud terrains.

 

[ryanm123]

Anyone with 5100s have experience changing the ride height themselves? I’ve got mine put on and set to 0 lift, but I think I want it at the 0.85” setting to get completely level. Can I do this without taking out my coil overs? I’d like to just jack it up and do it myself within maybe an hour and a half


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[theoutbackdream]

I really don't think that has ever happened. If anything it actually helps restore the factory diff angle after you level the truck.

It can help reduce the possibility of CV bind on full droop especially if you have aftermarket CV's or extended travel coilovers.

I kind of doubt it too, but i'm just relaying what i've read up so far. It's for the 3rd gens, but i'd imagine the 4th gens use a similar driveline.

Here's the thread.

The specific post that makes me think it's possible.

 

[Inv4drZm]

I kind of doubt it too, but i'm just relaying what i've read up so far. It's for the 3rd gens, but i'd imagine the 4th gens use a similar driveline.

Here's the thread.

The specific post that makes me think it's possible.

I'd argue all of the trucks listed in that post sounds like they were caused by offroading, nothing to do with the diff running low on oil. The first truck had 250k miles with 33's and was in 4WD driving around town in freezing conditions.

If spacing the differential down 3/8" in it's middle starves the bearing of oil, I wonder what leveling the front end does without a diff drop?

 

[kingofthehill]

Got it back today. Looks AMAZING. Just what I wanted out of it. The 5100s are set to 0 because of what I read on the lift of the coils. Everything. Is completely level with the Bilsteins at 0 and the T1/T12 combo. I did have a 1/8” top plate spacer put on the drivers side front top plate. I forgot to take measurements beforehand, so it’s pointless to measure it now, but just by eyeballing it, it looks good and equal all around.


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Any pics yet?