Has anyone had to change their timing belt on their 8 cylinder 4th gen yet? I missed it on my maintenance log, so it looks like I'm a little over. I can't believe that you are supposed to change it every 90K miles, the spark plugs don't even need to be changed that often. I thought about changing it myself, but after looking at the replacement instructions, I may have to give this one to the stealership.:bash:
4th gen timing belt
- Thread starter zig
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hossmaster
New member
I did my 3.4 this past weekend. I thought it was overwhelming, but realistially it's just nuts and bolts. Remove and Replace. I even did the crank and cam seals while I was there. Just study the engine plans and get a realization as to what needs to move and or come out and you'll be fine. Just remember to torque and anti-sieze. I have a 4.0 with my new runner and I am not afraid to dig into it, patience and a digital camera allow me to get back to where I started.
greasefingers
New member
I have not looked at it much, but it does look like an all day job. Usually I leave the engine positioned at top dead center for cylinder #1, before ripping everything apart. However I have not done this on a distributor-less system. Normally I turn the crankshaft, by hand & with the plugs removed, stick a pencil in place of the #1 cylinder spark plug. Then I wait for the rotor to reach the #1 spark plug wire. Now the rotor will come to the #1 spark plug wire twice: once at bottom dead center & once at TDC. When the pencil is being pushed out of the cylinder the system is at TDC. But with our motor I am clue-less. It would be great if someone could shed some light on this subject.
From what I hear people usually replace the water pump at the same time, for Toyota engines? I also understand that it is over $ 1,000 for 100 to 120 k mile service, at the dealership?
BTW: You are at 90 k already:jaw drop:
From what I hear people usually replace the water pump at the same time, for Toyota engines? I also understand that it is over $ 1,000 for 100 to 120 k mile service, at the dealership?
BTW: You are at 90 k already:jaw drop:
I'm at 97K right now, but will be up close to 98 by the end of the weekend.
Is the water pump supposed to be changed out at 120K? I didn't read that, or is that more of an experienced maintenance program? If so, I wonder if I should just wait until that time to do the timing belt as well?
What worries me about the timing belt change is the special tool that you are supposed to have. I guess that if it's fairly cheap to buy, I might as well do it, but the task still looks daunting. I've changed timing belts before, but didn't have to remove so much stuff to get to it. The alternator, radiator cover, air compressor doesn't bother me, it's the tensioner, multicovers, and pulleys that always tend to throw a kink into things. This is also our main driver, so I hate the idea of messing it up.
$1000 though, that may make me stay at home for a day and just do it.
What do you guys think about the water pump, and delaying the timing belt if at 120K?
Is the water pump supposed to be changed out at 120K? I didn't read that, or is that more of an experienced maintenance program? If so, I wonder if I should just wait until that time to do the timing belt as well?
What worries me about the timing belt change is the special tool that you are supposed to have. I guess that if it's fairly cheap to buy, I might as well do it, but the task still looks daunting. I've changed timing belts before, but didn't have to remove so much stuff to get to it. The alternator, radiator cover, air compressor doesn't bother me, it's the tensioner, multicovers, and pulleys that always tend to throw a kink into things. This is also our main driver, so I hate the idea of messing it up.
$1000 though, that may make me stay at home for a day and just do it.
What do you guys think about the water pump, and delaying the timing belt if at 120K?
zig said:
Being a Honda owner, I always replace the timing belt, timing belt tensioner, and water pump at the same time. I always do said replacements at 6-year/90k intervals... For the 4Runner, I've heard of a lot of people going farther than 90k on these 4.7's... I might stretch it to 100k and just do it at that point, being that the belt won't be all that old age-wise at that point in time (I will probably hit 90k in ~1.5-2 years from now on my '03, at which point the vehicle will be 5 years old. The 6-year mark of the vehicle's age should put me right at 100k or thereabouts).
Ricky
hossmaster
New member
When I changed my Timing belt on my tacoma, my water pump was seeping. I had to scrub and clean out all of that dried coolant. My thing is, if your gonna take all of that stuff off and work your way to all of these pieces why not replace those parts that will wear out while your there. Also since your taking off the drive belts change those, check the tensioners and idler pulleys for play and looseness. On my truck, I put a pin in the timing belt tensioner before I remove one of the idler pulleys, that kept me from having to reset the tensioner and I didn't have to use the SST for that part. I also used a chain type strap wrench along with an old belt to break the crank bolt and cam bolts, along with retorqueing them. Oh while your at it, change the crank and cam seals so they are fresh. Along with learning more about your engine, document your job with pics and a writeup to help those who are worried about it. Helping out your fellow runners is what we're here for.
Also one last thing, your timing belt cam pulley and crank pulley are all marked to where they should be placed when installing a new belt. Just remeber to turn clockwise. Its very difficult to get it out of time, just pay attention to what your doing.
Also one last thing, your timing belt cam pulley and crank pulley are all marked to where they should be placed when installing a new belt. Just remeber to turn clockwise. Its very difficult to get it out of time, just pay attention to what your doing.
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greasefingers
New member
Yea if you are going to rip all that stuff out you might as well replace the water pump! The water pump cannot make it to 180,000 to 200,000 miles which would be the next timing belt replacement, so do it once.
I have a friend that owns a Tundra. He claims that on his forum, many of the tundra guys with our engine actually take it 120 k miles; and state that the timing belt was in fine condition?
I have a friend that owns a Tundra. He claims that on his forum, many of the tundra guys with our engine actually take it 120 k miles; and state that the timing belt was in fine condition?
hossmaster
New member
greasefingers said:
I will agree with that, my Tacoma's belt at 92k looked exactly like the new one. But it will fail on you!
Grease, what forum was that, and what year of trucks have the same motor?
Does anyone know if the clearances of the engine will allow for a timing belt breakage without catastrophic damage?
My understanding is that rubber breaks down more with age than it does wear, so I'm leaning on going a little while longer. Most of my miles are also cruising miles, so I would hope that this would reduce the amount of wear/miles ratio a little bit as well.
I think that I'll just do it myself. If I do, and when I do, I'll make sure and take lots of pics for you guys.
Does anyone know if the clearances of the engine will allow for a timing belt breakage without catastrophic damage?
My understanding is that rubber breaks down more with age than it does wear, so I'm leaning on going a little while longer. Most of my miles are also cruising miles, so I would hope that this would reduce the amount of wear/miles ratio a little bit as well.
I think that I'll just do it myself. If I do, and when I do, I'll make sure and take lots of pics for you guys.
greasefingers
New member
After reading that, it looks like I'm going to get it done. They say that it is an interference engine, so any breakage could result in a total FUBAR incident. I'll have it quoted, but seeing that I'll play it carefull and do the pulleys/tensioners and gaskets, etc. it'll probably be a big chunk of change, and I'll just want to do it myself.
I've got a trip scheduled for this weekend, so it'll have to wait. I sure hope that nothing happens. :bash:
I've got a trip scheduled for this weekend, so it'll have to wait. I sure hope that nothing happens. :bash:
HuntRunner
New member
I have not replaced mine yet but my dealer's price menu says $284.95 to replace timing belt on the v8.
greasefingers
New member
That would be very very cheap compared to what many are paying.
Jeff Kleb
New member
Timing Belts
Maybe that is one good thing about having the V6 in my 4Runner........No timing belt.
I wonder why Toyota put timing belts in the V8, but decided to put a chain in the V6. Odd.....but I suppose they had a reason.
Even my little 4-cylinder Nissan Sentra has a timing chain that never needs replacing (and should normally last the life of the engine itself).
I once owned a used 1978 Chevette and it had a timing belt that failed on me. Fortunately, it was a non-interference engine (GM did at least one thing right with those cars!) and it ran like new after the belt was replaced. I was only out the cost of the belt and a ten-mile ride on the back of a tow truck.
I was in college back then (1986) and it was still a lot of money -- although less than the cost of having to buy a new engine for it. I ended up driving that car until it had over 130,000 hard miles.
From what I have heard, Honda, Nissan and Toyota have "interference" engines where the valve train will be turned into Cheez Whiz if a belt should fail. The top of the pistons and the intake & exhaust valves will both try to occupy the same space at the same time. Not good!:bash:
Maybe that is one good thing about having the V6 in my 4Runner........No timing belt.
I wonder why Toyota put timing belts in the V8, but decided to put a chain in the V6. Odd.....but I suppose they had a reason.
Even my little 4-cylinder Nissan Sentra has a timing chain that never needs replacing (and should normally last the life of the engine itself).
I once owned a used 1978 Chevette and it had a timing belt that failed on me. Fortunately, it was a non-interference engine (GM did at least one thing right with those cars!) and it ran like new after the belt was replaced. I was only out the cost of the belt and a ten-mile ride on the back of a tow truck.
I was in college back then (1986) and it was still a lot of money -- although less than the cost of having to buy a new engine for it. I ended up driving that car until it had over 130,000 hard miles.
From what I have heard, Honda, Nissan and Toyota have "interference" engines where the valve train will be turned into Cheez Whiz if a belt should fail. The top of the pistons and the intake & exhaust valves will both try to occupy the same space at the same time. Not good!:bash:
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hossmaster
New member
The older 3.4L engines weren't interferece engines. Still a good idea to fix it before you break it. Plus, your waterpump is probally gonna start seeping anyway.
Well, I chickened out. Sort of. I really didn't have the time to change it myself, and with it being our only "reliable" vehicle, I didn't want to wreck it right away, so I ended up having the dealership do it. I went ahead and had them replace the water pump (which is extra labor since it does not have to be removed in order to get to the timing belt), idlers, thermostat, hoses, belts, radiator fluid, and seals. The grand total came up to a little over $1300 :bash: $600 in parts, $700 in labor. Man that sucks, but I had to get it done before I leave on another trip with it today. Oh well.
I'll hit 100K on it here in a couple of hours. You guys want me to take a picture of the momentous occassion?
I'll hit 100K on it here in a couple of hours. You guys want me to take a picture of the momentous occassion?
