4x4 PSA: Use it or lose it monthly reminder
- Thread starter Kmvreter
- Start date
AuSeeker
Elite Member
You can stop posting multiple pointless posts in the same topic, you now have more than enough posts to start your own topic, but after your numerous pointless posts many may not reply to any topic you may start!
TejasRunner01
New member
I have an 08 V8 4wd and it moves into 4L and locks the center diff, but when I move into 4L I hear a slight grinding or crunching sound as if it is crusty? How much noise does your V8 make when moving from 4H to 4L? I have the car stationary and do all engaging in neutral and always wait to put it into drive until the lights stop flashing. Also the transfer case fluid and front diff fluid have been changed within the last 10k miles. Thanks in advanced.
Sent from my Mi MIX 2S using Tapatalk
Sent from my Mi MIX 2S using Tapatalk
richiegrich
New member
Fixed my transfer case. Installed a manually shifted FJ Cruiser tcase. Works so much better now. And it came out to around $1000 all said and done. $270 for the FJ tcase, $750 for the new driveshafts and I did all the work myself. Tcase is a direct bolt-in replacement. Cut a hole in the trans tunnel for the shifter, which requires welding to route it to the proper location and driveshafts get shortened in front and lengthened in rear.
any need to alter your oil pan? did you swap front diffs? I was debating on tackling this down the road but the pan and diff seemed like alot of work.
4RUNNER FJ T CASE SWAP
xtremewlr
Member
RST is full of shit, I'll just start off with that. Not to mention they don't ship what you buy usually and feed you all sorts of excuses as to why or when it will go out. They have great ideas but it's run by a shady character as far as I'm concerned.
If you have the V8, you do not need to swap the front diff, regardless of what they say. The V8 diff is the strongest setup available for the 4Runner. Lots a Tacoma and FJ guys actually eliminate the ADD and go with the AWD passenger tube on the front diff because it's stronger. They don't eat tcases either.
You are not going to burn up the tcase with the front driveshaft spinning all the time in 2wd.
This also means no modifications are needed to the oil pan. Leave it as is.
I have over 6k miles on my swap now, with plenty of offroad and highway use. Right after the swap, I drove from Tucson to Moab, wheeled out there and drove home. I've made multiple trips to and from San Diego as well, almost a 650 mile round trip each time.
The oil pump in the tcase is driven off the output shaft going to the rear driveshaft. Oil circulation is not an issue, foaming the oil is not an issue, pushing gear oil out the breather tube or gear shift is not an issue. This is my daily driver, it works.
richiegrich
New member
that makes it alot more manageable. glad to hear its holding up without issue. guess i'll start hunting for a fj case
702tripgen
New member
Are the internals of the V8 Front diff different? When you say "tube" what are you referring to? Is the V8 transfer case different than V-6?
Thank you!
xtremewlr
Member
Mine I got from a local dismantler for about $250 and it came with the shifter. It's from a 2011 FJ Cruiser that had 130,891 miles on it.
The V8 front differential doesn't have ADD like the V6 does. This makes the passenger side tube on the V8, from the diff to the wheel, stronger than the ADD setup that the V6 4Runner and Tacomas have. This is why a lot of Tacoma owners switch out the ADD tube for the solid V8 one.
Yes, the V8 and V6 4Runner transfer cases are different but they both utilize electric servo motors, which are prone to failure, to shift in and out of 4wd/4LO. The FJ Cruiser tcase will still bolt up to the V6 Transmission without modifications, just like on the V8 transmission.
Perhaps it's time for the rest of us to pick up the torch~~
Montego Murph
Member
I just realized that nobody responded to this.
Oddly enough, I noticed that I had the same issue that you did, nearly verbatim. Someone else asked me when in my drive I was making the switch. My plan was always to back out of the driveway into the street, shift to 4L, then idle through the gears to about 15mph through the subdivision as my "warmup time," then shift into 4H, and go about my business.
It turns out that I didn't put 2+2 (or should I say, 4L+4L...) together and realize that when we first start the engine, it's at high idle which will cause the gears to crunch a little bit.
Since this was pointed out, I've pulled over upon returning to the neighborhood, shifted to 4L, and idled home as previously mentioned. Crunchless.
