5th Gen Calipers

[shahsmerdis]

Has anybody bought 5th gen calipers through NAPA? If so did they take your 4th gen calipers as core for 5th? I need rears by Tuesday before a 2000 mile drive. They have some in stock for $73.49 each. Also they only have their cheapest rotors in stock for $48.99, anybody have experience with those? Thanks in advance

Id go OEM rotors, for 20 dollars more in the front.

 

[84ability]

Id go OEM rotors, for 20 dollars more in the front.

I already did that for the fronts, I'm talking about the rear. I guess I can get rotors at AutoZone or some other place instead. Still curious if anybody has experience with core refund from anybody other than rockauto.

 

[dkyleb]

I already did that for the fronts, I'm talking about the rear. I guess I can get rotors at AutoZone or some other place instead. Still curious if anybody has experience with core refund from anybody other than rockauto.

Most places don't do cores on rotors. Just on callipers.

 

[84ability]

Most places don't do cores on rotors. Just on callipers.

omg, lol. I know. If you read my initial post about NAPA I am asking about core refunds on calipers specifically.

 

[dkyleb]

omg, lol. I know. If you read my initial post about NAPA I am asking about core refunds on calipers specifically.

Ah, right, sorry.

I have them my 4th gen callipers and just didn't say anything. They're nearly identical, except for the different piston sizes and casting numbers. Just play stupid, works every time!

 

[84ability]

Ah, right, sorry.

I have them my 4th gen callipers and just didn't say anything. They're nearly identical, except for the different piston sizes and casting numbers. Just play stupid, works every time!

That's great to hear, thanks a lot!

 

[Spiderjhn]

Went to do a front brake job on the new to me 04 limited 4R. Yep, lower inboard frozen on both sides. Found bad axle boots and a bad wheel bearing also so I went to a great local shop here on the Outer Banks of NC for a quote. Up on the rack for a brake job was a 5gen with frozen calipers. All new centrix parts on the floor. Mechanic was familure with the caliper problems of the 4Runners. Since we live on the coast we do have harsh conditions. I don't know if the owner drove the beaches or not but none the less there was the caliper problem. After reading this great forum I don't doubt that the newer calipers can help in some if not most conditions. It won't be the fix for the harshest conditions. Best of luck.

 

[snowboardwcu]

Any reason why most of you are choosing the Centric 120 'Daily Driver' line versus the 126 or 127 StopTech line? Any difference in quality between these or is it just flat versus drilled&slotted?

 

[pjbrownva]

Hey I would not paint the area in which the caliper mounting brackets meet the pad (on the rear calipers). there is only a few mm of room where they are supposed to slide along. if you add too much paint you risk causing them not to release when letting go of the the brakes....

if it went in easy without forcing the pads in there you might be okay. but my 4th gen calipers seized because there were a few mm of rust, preventing the pads from sliding correctly. Other wise nice paint job.

Thank you [MENTION=128090]shahsmerdis[/MENTION], I didn't know that. I will check for clearance when I install them, and maybe I'll use sand paper or a wire brush to remove the paint on the inside part of the rear caliper where it meets the brake pad. Thank you, thank you, thank you! :hail: :hail: :hail:

That g2 paint looks good. How was your install? I got mine installed on Saturday and what a *****... about 10 hours later..

My install took forever... although it WAS the first time I've done brakes.

I paid someone to help me with the rears. We spent about 6 hrs.

I did the fronts myself, I spent about 10 hrs.

Then, after the rust, I pulled and cleaned everything (4 hrs), then painted them (3 hrs).

Last night, I replaced my center brake lines with stainless steel ones.
I had rust, plus the connections were stuck, then reconnecting gave me problems.... 6 hrs later, I was done!

Today, I'll reinstall all four brakes, add fluid and bleed. Not sure how long it will take.

One comment... I'm doing the wheels one at a time, and putting the wheel back on before I move to the next wheel. It's basically to keep the neighbors happy. Where I'm working, they'll complain if the truck is on jack stands with the wheels off, so I need to keep a low profile so as to not draw their complaints.

I'll post an update and photos once I'm done.

 

[shahsmerdis]

Thank you [MENTION=128090]shahsmerdis[/MENTION], I didn't know that. I will check for clearance when I install them, and maybe I'll use sand paper or a wire brush to remove the paint on the inside part of the rear caliper where it meets the brake pad. Thank you, thank you, thank you! :hail: :hail: :hail:



My install took forever... although it WAS the first time I've done brakes.

I paid someone to help me with the rears. We spent about 6 hrs.

I did the fronts myself, I spent about 10 hrs.

Then, after the rust, I pulled and cleaned everything (4 hrs), then painted them (3 hrs).

Last night, I replaced my center brake lines with stainless steel ones.
I had rust, plus the connections were stuck, then reconnecting gave me problems.... 6 hrs later, I was done!

Today, I'll reinstall all four brakes, add fluid and bleed. Not sure how long it will take.

One comment... I'm doing the wheels one at a time, and putting the wheel back on before I move to the next wheel. It's basically to keep the neighbors happy. Where I'm working, they'll complain if the truck is on jack stands with the wheels off, so I need to keep a low profile so as to not draw their complaints.

I'll post an update and photos once I'm done.

just move your pads if they move freely and you dont have jam them into place you are probably okay. But if you have to jam or force them in to the caliper, them in there its possible the paint is creating a few mm of less room which could cause your pads to seize.

 

[pjbrownva]

just move your pads if they move freely and you dont have jam them into place you are probably okay. But if you have to jam or force them in to the caliper, them in there its possible the paint is creating a few mm of less room which could cause your pads to seize.

Update. I mounted the calipers painted as shown, and I have enough play that I should be OK. The paint wasn't an issue for me.

Thank you [MENTION=128090]shahsmerdis[/MENTION], I didn't know that. I will check for clearance when I install them, and maybe I'll use sand paper or a wire brush to remove the paint on the inside part of the rear caliper where it meets the brake pad. Thank you, thank you, thank you! :hail: :hail: :hail:



My install took forever... although it WAS the first time I've done brakes.

I paid someone to help me with the rears. We spent about 6 hrs.

I did the fronts myself, I spent about 10 hrs.

Then, after the rust, I pulled and cleaned everything (4 hrs), then painted them (3 hrs).

Last night, I replaced my center brake lines with stainless steel ones.
I had rust, plus the connections were stuck, then reconnecting gave me problems.... 6 hrs later, I was done!

Today, I'll reinstall all four brakes, add fluid and bleed. Not sure how long it will take.

One comment... I'm doing the wheels one at a time, and putting the wheel back on before I move to the next wheel. It's basically to keep the neighbors happy. Where I'm working, they'll complain if the truck is on jack stands with the wheels off, so I need to keep a low profile so as to not draw their complaints.

I'll post an update and photos once I'm done.

Installed all four calipers and bleed the lines in under four hours. this included jacking up the car 4 times, and removing and reinstalling the tires.

My impact driver helped save a lot of time, plus I guess I'm learning what I'm doing.

The speed bleeders also made life easy... but be forewarned, get the stainless steel ones if you get them. I have previously tried to use the cheaper brass ones, and every one snapped on me, causing me to have to drill a hole, and use an allen wrench to get them out per the instructions on the speed bleeder website.

I had five bottles of DOT 4 brake fluid. You'll also need a piece of hose to connect to the bleeder nipple. I recommend about 3 ft long to give you plenty of length, but you can do it with less. I took an empty 2 liter soda bottle, cleaned it well, and drilled a hole in the cap so that the bleeder hose fit snugly through the hole in the cap, and then drilled a second, small hole in the cap to act as a breather hole. Then when I bled the brakes, I just ran a lot of fluid through each brake caliper (one at a time... in the correct order), stopping to top off the brake fluid reservoir often. With the 2 liter bottle catching the old fluid, I was able to flush and bleed the system, and not worry about spilling brake fluid. Although I know that brake fluid absorbs moisture through the air, I found that I needed to leave the cap off of the brake reservoir during the process, so that air could get in as I pumped brake fluid out.

Now, what do I do with the old fluid? :noidea:

 

[pjbrownva]

Any reason why most of you are choosing the Centric 120 'Daily Driver' line versus the 126 or 127 StopTech line? Any difference in quality between these or is it just flat versus drilled&slotted?

If you use high quality pads, you will probably get the best performance and the longest life out of the solid rotors.

See this post (Post #245 by me)... if you'd like more info.

 

[rjb75]

My rear brakes started squealing last weekend-as long as the weather cooperates, I should have this done on Saturday. Went with the standard Centric calipers w/o the crappy pads, Centric 5th gen rotors and Akebono pads. I will pick up some caliper paint and get them painted up tomorrow. Looking forward to getting at least half of the upgrade done.

 

[Where'dWhoGo]

Where are you guys getting your 5th gen calipers if you don't mind me asking? Every local parts shop I called either can't get or don't have any info on front calipers, only rears.

Only place I've found to carry fronts is Rockauto so far.

 

[snowboardwcu]

If you use high quality pads, you will probably get the best performance and the longest life out of the solid rotors.

See this post (Post #245 by me)... if you'd like more info.

hey Paul - hows the new rig treating you?

Thanks, i know the drilled / slotted does very little if anything for non racing vehicles. some websites are categorizing the 120's as daily driver or low end. while it seems impossible to find rotors made the USA i'm starting to over research and thus worry less about the 120s. i think you're right, good pads and move on.

now if i could just decide on said pads. i love EBC and everyone here loves akebono/hawk. time for more over-researching....

 

[pjbrownva]

hey Paul - hows the new rig treating you?

Thanks, i know the drilled / slotted does very little if anything for non racing vehicles. some websites are categorizing the 120's as daily driver or low end. while it seems impossible to find rotors made the USA i'm starting to over research and thus worry less about the 120s. i think you're right, good pads and move on.

now if i could just decide on said pads. i love EBC and everyone here loves akebono/hawk. time for more over-researching....

The new brakes are awesome. Maybe too good! Let's just say that I was ticketed in Virginia for going too fast, and they DON'T have a sense of humor about those things here in VA. I'm lucky I didn't get jail time (so my lawyer says... and I believe him) and I'll be able to get my license back in about another week and a half. :cry2:

87 in a 55. They call it reckless... I disagreed. I guess they won. !!!!

For pads, I just went with the akebono because I heard they were very good. I didn't do any more research.

For the person asking about calipers... search on the web. I bought mine at Partstrain.com They had them and they had excellent prices.

Good luck to anyone going this route. I think it's a good upgrade. Between the brakes, new tires (Michellin Defender LTX M/S), Bilstein 5100 shocks all-around, airride air bags inside the rear springs, FJ cruiser springs front and rear, and stainless steel brake lines, my V8 4Runner seemed like a whole new vehicle!

I really enjoyed it.... for all of three days... until I got that ticket!
fftopic:

Oh well... C'est la vie.

 

[pjbrownva]

... Up on the rack for a brake job was a 5gen with frozen calipers. ... Best of luck.

:lalala::lalala::lalala::lalala:

I'm not listening!!

:rofl::rofl:

 

[snowboardwcu]

The new brakes are awesome. Maybe too good! Let's just say that I was ticketed in Virginia for going too fast, and they DON'T have a sense of humor about those things here in VA. I'm lucky I didn't get jail time (so my lawyer says... and I believe him) and I'll be able to get my license back in about another week and a half. :cry2:

87 in a 55. They call it reckless... I disagreed. I guess they won. !!!!

For pads, I just went with the akebono because I heard they were very good. I didn't do any more research.

For the person asking about calipers... search on the web. I bought mine at Partstrain.com They had them and they had excellent prices.

Good luck to anyone going this route. I think it's a good upgrade. Between the brakes, new tires (Michellin Defender LTX M/S), Bilstein 5100 shocks all-around, airride air bags inside the rear springs, FJ cruiser springs front and rear, and stainless steel brake lines, my V8 4Runner seemed like a whole new vehicle!

I really enjoyed it.... for all of three days... until I got that ticket!
fftopic:

Oh well... C'est la vie.

OH MAN we talked so long ago when that thing that happened to you happened! holy! funny, i drive to and from Portsmouth from Philly every six weeks, steady as she goes at the speed limit on the nose. no VA po' is gettin' me!
:focus:
i wish i could just pull the trigger on this stuff. i love EBC so much and all my research leads me to them, expect Hawks seem to have lifetime warranty. i can't find much love for EBC on the forum. There's a little, but overwhelmingly ppl recommend hawk/akebono. metallic vs ceramic it will come down to. Thanks for your help again.

 

[pjbrownva]

OH MAN we talked so long ago when that thing that happened to you happened! holy! funny, i drive to and from Portsmouth from Philly every six weeks, steady as she goes at the speed limit on the nose. no VA po' is gettin' me!
:focus:
i wish i could just pull the trigger on this stuff. i love EBC so much and all my research leads me to them, expect Hawks seem to have lifetime warranty. i can't find much love for EBC on the forum. There's a little, but overwhelmingly ppl recommend hawk/akebono. metallic vs ceramic it will come down to. Thanks for your help again.

I know that many years ago, EBC made some of the very best motor cycle brake pads. I don't really follow brake pad technology, but I would assume that a set of high performance EBC pads would be a good choice too.

I went with the Akebono ceramic pads, because they are supposed to last, and create less break dust. I didn't look into the EBC options at all.

 

[rjb75]

Did the rears today-didn't go as well as I had hoped. The fittings on the steel lines were fused to the brake hoses so I didn't get to change the hoses today. Going to price the OEM steel lines and if they're not too expensive I'll use those when I inevitably break the lines on the truck. Then there's the @!%!^%@^!&&@(!&( parking brake. Old rotors slid right off and new ones slid on without hanging up on the shoes yet the passenger side was grabbing to the point of turning my nice new rotor blue while driving. I completely removed the shoes out of frustration since I couldn't find the adjustment hole in the backing plate in the dark. The parking brake didn't work well before the upgrade so I'll pick up new parts for that too.

Aside of that, the truck stops great! Both old calipers were seized and the passenger side was metal on metal so I hand nowhere to go but up.