5th Gen Calipers

[084RUNNAH]

Getting air out of our trucks with the brake system they come with is a bit tricky I would say. It's suppose to be easy especially with the rear.

 

[07V8]

Getting air out of our trucks with the brake system they come with is a bit tricky I would say. It's suppose to be easy especially with the rear.

Why do you say that? I had someone pump and hold while I cracked each bleeder. I did this about 5 times on each one while it was running.

 

[084RUNNAH]

I find with other vehicles (older) with traditional master cylinders they are a bit easier to bleed compared to our complex master cylinder. Just my opinion I guess.

 

[pjbrownva]

Hey guys, it's been just over a year since I initially installed my 5th gen brake upgrade. Just serviced all 4 brakes with good results. No seized calipers and wearing well / evenly.

I noticed some of you guys had issues bleeding / pedal travel. Most of you guys are using what I used in my write up which makes things a bit easier amongst us and maybe we can relate to one another. I bleed my brakes twice within the first week I installed them. When brake, 1/4 inch of travel is what it takes for me to feel them touching/grabbing. The most I have to use to brake in a normal scenario is 1-1 1/2 of travel. Not spongy at all

[MENTION=66825]084RUNNAH[/MENTION], I just wanted to thank you for initiating this thread.

23 pages of posts, and still going strong
.
You've definitely started a trend,

and it's been a huge help to so many of us. :hail::hail::hail:

THANK YOU!

 

[pjbrownva]

DON'T get the G-Stop Brake Line Kit - the rear lines don't fit!

I think the 5500FJ-AP-R are for the axle. If the picture is correct, there's no banjo fitting to attach to the caliper.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------





DON'T buy the Goodridge G-Stop Brakeline kit (see image BELOW), because the banjo fitting for the rear brake line doesn't fit because the diameter is too large, and the connection is 180 degrees straight, while it should be bent at an angle like the OEM connection.

The result is that you can't use it, even if you try grinding something down to make it fit.

I only briefly considered mounting this aftermarket banjo fitting at a different angle, so that it does not sit inside the two "tongs" that secure the OEM fitting to keep it from rotating left or right...

but then I realized... WAIT!!!

This is a critical safety item.
Suppose it leaks or fails.
I could die or kill someone!!!

YOU DON'T want to jerry-rig your brakes. If something doesn't fit, DON'T USE IT.


So.... DON'T GET THESE.



The rear brakes require a banjo fitting, and the banjo fitting in this set DID NOT FIT. The "neck" of the banjo had too large of a diameter to fit into the slot on the calipers, and the OEM connection is at an angle, while these aftermarket ones were a straight 180 degrees. The result is that I couldn't use them at all, because they don't fit, and even if they did fit, the brake lines would have to bend at too sharp of an angle to connect properly to the rest of the system.

I figured I'd save someone else some $$$ by sharing this information. The front lines and the "center" lines fit fine. However, I had to order a different set of rear stainless steel lines. I decided not to return the set, but I wouldn't buy it again.

FYI and beware.

 

[084RUNNAH]

[MENTION=66825]084RUNNAH[/MENTION], I just wanted to thank you for initiating this thread.

23 pages of posts, and still going strong
.
You've definitely started a trend,

and it's been a huge help to so many of us. :hail::hail::hail:

THANK YOU!

Your welcome! I am glad I can contribute on this forum

The good part is everyone helps each other out and this is the least I can do

Enjoy! Btw, I love the extra braking power. Makes me smile

 

[collierunner]

Been there bud at least you have some room to work. Go buy some wd40 blue torch penetrating oil. I think it works good. Soak the hell out of it a few times and let sit over night. Buy the drill bits small to progressively larger with diamond tips. Take your time. Drill baby drill.

I've had this happen removing exhaust manifolds on my old car. the bolt and ezout broke into the head. at least you have room

Thanks for the support. I gave up. I went down to Salem and got a new to me knuckle from the junk yard. They pulled it off a newer 4runner with 35k miles on it, came with the hub all ABS wires. All for a 100 bucks. Wish I did that on Saturday when the bolt snapped. They had a 2007 there as well that I might have to go back and cannibalize some small stuff. I still need to get the old brake lines off.

 

[pjbrownva]

...
Btw, I love the extra braking power. Makes me smile

Agreed. :cheers:

Even when towing a 4000 pound boat and trailer, it stops confidently and quickly. I really love the improvement!

:hat:

(I have the whole enchilada... including all six brake lines in braided stainless steel, dot 5.1 brake fluid, and the same Akebono ceramic brake pads that [MENTION=66825]084RUNNAH[/MENTION] used.)

 

[heiser]

Alright, I've been through this thread a couple times and I'm overthinking this process. I'd appreciate some help. My fronts were previously seized, and I replaced those with 4th gen parts last year before I knew this was an option.

1. I need to replace my rear brakes. It seems a lot more common with front calipers. Is that true or am I imagining that? i.e. Should I replace them with 5th gens if they ever fail or does it matter?

2. I keep reading everyone getting different pads (hawk, stop tech, wagner, etc). I have Bosch pads up front but they create a lot of dust. Does it matter too much what I choose? I was leaning to ceramic wagners.

3. I put caliper grease on my front caliper pins. That grease was getting sticky last time I checked and caused MPG problems because the pads couldn't move easily. I read someone talking about Toyota Synglide grease or something else that should be put on the pins. What do you guys use?

 

[07V8]

Your welcome! I am glad I can contribute on this forum

The good part is everyone helps each other out and this is the least I can do

Enjoy! Btw, I love the extra braking power. Makes me smile

How did you bleed your brakes? Is your pedal feel the same on subsequent presses? For example, if I quickly press the brakes to engage them, let off, and quickly press again, the feedback on the second press is far superior. It's almost as if the system feels "primed".

Does anyone else experience this? I'm starting to think I still have air in my system and would like some input on how best to bleed the system.

 

[084RUNNAH]

How did you bleed your brakes? Is your pedal feel the same on subsequent presses? For example, if I quickly press the brakes to engage them, let off, and quickly press again, the feedback on the second press is far superior. It's almost as if the system feels "primed".

Does anyone else experience this? I'm starting to think I still have air in my system and would like some input on how best to bleed the system.

Yes you still have air in the system.

1- with the ignition off, pump the brake pedal more than 40 times.
2- Turn the ignition on, wait for the electronic pump to turn off (30 to 40sec)
3- With the ignition still on, pump the brakes more than 20 times.
4- Connect tubing to bleed valve
5- With ignition on, pump the brake several times, with the pedal down, loosen the bleed until the fluid starts to slow down. Tighten bleed screw and release brake pedal. Repeat as needed. Constantly check fluid level in master cyl reservoir.

Good luck!

 

[084RUNNAH]

Alright, I've been through this thread a couple times and I'm overthinking this process. I'd appreciate some help. My fronts were previously seized, and I replaced those with 4th gen parts last year before I knew this was an option.

1. I need to replace my rear brakes. It seems a lot more common with front calipers. Is that true or am I imagining that? i.e. Should I replace them with 5th gens if they ever fail or does it matter?

2. I keep reading everyone getting different pads (hawk, stop tech, wagner, etc). I have Bosch pads up front but they create a lot of dust. Does it matter too much what I choose? I was leaning to ceramic wagners.

3. I put caliper grease on my front caliper pins. That grease was getting sticky last time I checked and caused MPG problems because the pads couldn't move easily. I read someone talking about Toyota Synglide grease or something else that should be put on the pins. What do you guys use?

I haven't heard much about the rear brakes giving much problems. The 5th gen calipers will give you greater braking force since they have a bigger piston (larger surface area).

Regarding brake pad choices, they are all great choices (Hawk, Stoptech, Wagner, Bosch) they all make different levels of pads (economy, middle of the road, premium, or severe duty). I've had Wagner Thermoquiet on previous car with great results. I personally use Akebono and they've been amazing so far. Not a squeak from them and it's been a year (15,000kms).

I currently use Kleen-Flo Eze Slide. Never had a problem and I've been using them for the past 5 years and regularly service my brakes every year

 

[Slowgoat]

Double post

 

[Slowgoat]

Alright, I've been through this thread a couple times and I'm overthinking this process. I'd appreciate some help. My fronts were previously seized, and I replaced those with 4th gen parts last year before I knew this was an option.

1. I need to replace my rear brakes. It seems a lot more common with front calipers. Is that true or am I imagining that? i.e. Should I replace them with 5th gens if they ever fail or does it matter?

2. I keep reading everyone getting different pads (hawk, stop tech, wagner, etc). I have Bosch pads up front but they create a lot of dust. Does it matter too much what I choose? I was leaning to ceramic wagners.

3. I put caliper grease on my front caliper pins. That grease was getting sticky last time I checked and caused MPG problems because the pads couldn't move easily. I read someone talking about Toyota Synglide grease or something else that should be put on the pins. What do you guys use?

1. I had 2 rear siezed calipers. Put 5th gen calipers on there last fall, and it's been good so far. Slight power increase was easily felt.

2. Akebono semimetallic is what I use. Rumor is they are identical to oem Yota pads. Or just go OEM.

3.

See this page:Solving Brake Problems - EricTheCarGuy- Stay Dirty! - Page #1

3M silicone paste/dielectric grease (or similar)

Here is the Amazon link (I bet it can be found cheaper than $26, that's crazy expensive.)

Amazon.com: 3M 08946 Clear Silicone Paste - 8 oz.: Automotive

 

[07V8]

Yes you still have air in the system.

1- with the ignition off, pump the brake pedal more than 40 times.
2- Turn the ignition on, wait for the electronic pump to turn off (30 to 40sec)
3- With the ignition still on, pump the brakes more than 20 times.
4- Connect tubing to bleed valve
5- With ignition on, pump the brake several times, with the pedal down, loosen the bleed until the fluid starts to slow down. Tighten bleed screw and release brake pedal. Repeat as needed. Constantly check fluid level in master cyl reservoir.

Good luck!

I appreciate it!! I'll try it tomorrow!

How much did you have to bleed the system? Did you experience similar symptoms until fully bleeding the system?

 

[heiser]

I haven't heard much about the rear brakes giving much problems. ...

1. I had 2 rear siezed calipers. Put 5th gen calipers on there last fall, and it's been good so far. Slight power increase was easily felt....

Great info. Thanks guys. Also, I can't believe how much that grease is, but I know it'll be worth it.

I keep seeing Akebono mentioned, but damn those are expensive too. EDIT: Turns out I'm dumb and 1 set = 4 pads, not 1 set = 2 pads. Got the Akebonos.

I think I'll do the pads and rotors, since those are interchangeable for 4th/5th gen. If the calipers look bad I'll do those later, but I think they're doing alright for now.

 

[Pilotamis]

I'm about to order everything and I see a hardware kit for the front and rear from Centric that is listed as OE. Part number CE 117.91001 and CE 117.44101. Should I order these as well? Its take almost a month for anything to get here so I need to order everything right the first time. Also, I see a parking brake pad kit for the 5th Gen listed but it looks like it is for a drum. Is this correct? Part number 111.08500. Is there a part number for the emergency brake hardware kit? Once I open this up, there's no running to NAPA to pick something up I forgot or broke. Dealership and NAPA here have nothing in stock. Literally, I'm ordering everything to change the transfer case and diff fluids plus spark plugs. Nothing on island, 1 month for orders.

 

[pjbrownva]

Bleed your brakes in this order & STAINLESS steel speed bleeders ($70) can help

I appreciate it!! I'll try it tomorrow!

How much did you have to bleed the system? Did you experience similar symptoms until fully bleeding the system?

For bleeding, the advise about the procedure sounds correct. (I'm not a pro).

But you also should bleed your brakes starting with the closest to the master cylinder, and working your way to the farthest. The order to bleed the brakes is driver's side front, passenger side front, driver's side rear, passenger side rear.

I not only did a bleed, but I also flushed my lines. If you decide to flush the lines, or if you want to bleed your brakes alone (you don't have a helper, or don't want to bother them), then speed bleeders work very well.

But be forewarned... DON'T get the brass ones. I broke off 3 of them, and had to drill them out (using the instructions on the website on how to drill out broken speedbleeders! -- hint, hint... why do they need to post instructions for that?).

However, they make stainless steel versions that are more expensive, but are also awesome!

Here are the speed bleeder part numbers I ordered. I'm getting the stainless steel because i broke off all of the brass ones i had previously ordered.

Speed Bleeder Bleeding Brakes Bleeding Motorcycle Brakes Automotive Bleeder Screw Brake Bleeder

Order Contents. -- these fit the 4Runner 4th and 5th gen calipers.

DESCPRICEQTYEXT

Sku: SB1010SS
SB1010-SS Speed Bleeder 2 x $15.00 = $30.00

Sku: SB7100SS
SB7100-SS Speed Bleeder 2 x $15.00= $30.00

Sku: DUSTCAP
Extra Dust Cap 2 x $0.10= $0.20
Subtotal:$60.20
Sales Tax:$0.00
USPS Priority Shipping $9.80
Order Totals:$70.00

See this post for some more info.

 

[07V8]

For bleeding, the advise about the procedure sounds correct. (I'm not a pro).

But you also should bleed your brakes starting with the closest to the master cylinder, and working your way to the farthest. The order to bleed the brakes is driver's side front, passenger side front, driver's side rear, passenger side rear.

I not only did a bleed, but I also flushed my lines. If you decide to flush the lines, or if you want to bleed your brakes alone (you don't have a helper, or don't want to bother them), then speed bleeders work very well.

But be forewarned... DON'T get the brass ones. I broke off 3 of them, and had to drill them out (using the instructions on the website on how to drill out broken speedbleeders! -- hint, hint... why do they need to post instructions for that?).

However, they make stainless steel versions that are more expensive, but are also awesome!

Here are the speed bleeder part numbers I ordered. I'm getting the stainless steel because i broke off all of the brass ones i had previously ordered.

Speed Bleeder Bleeding Brakes Bleeding Motorcycle Brakes Automotive Bleeder Screw Brake Bleeder

Order Contents. -- these fit the 4Runner 4th and 5th gen calipers.

DESCPRICEQTYEXT

Sku: SB1010SS
SB1010-SS Speed Bleeder 2 x $15.00 = $30.00

Sku: SB7100SS
SB7100-SS Speed Bleeder 2 x $15.00= $30.00

Sku: DUSTCAP
Extra Dust Cap 2 x $0.10= $0.20
Subtotal:$60.20
Sales Tax:$0.00
USPS Priority Shipping $9.80
Order Totals:$70.00

See this post for some more info.

Thank you! I have a helper so I won't need the speed bleeders. I'm going to really take my time today bleeding them.

 

[084RUNNAH]

I'm about to order everything and I see a hardware kit for the front and rear from Centric that is listed as OE. Part number CE 117.91001 and CE 117.44101. Should I order these as well? Its take almost a month for anything to get here so I need to order everything right the first time. Also, I see a parking brake pad kit for the 5th Gen listed but it looks like it is for a drum. Is this correct? Part number 111.08500. Is there a part number for the emergency brake hardware kit? Once I open this up, there's no running to NAPA to pick something up I forgot or broke. Dealership and NAPA here have nothing in stock. Literally, I'm ordering everything to change the transfer case and diff fluids plus spark plugs. Nothing on island, 1 month for orders.

When you order the calipers, they come with all the hardware required so you don't need to order additional hardware.

The parking brake shoes and hardware kit are identical to 4th and 5th gen 4Runners. If you need them, you can do them. They are a pain in the rear without the right tools.

Best of luck!