5th Gen Engine Oil Leak at 50k

assassin said:
So Oil Pressure Sensor Switch is leaking and it leaked all over the timing belt so they want to replace that too. Apparently its all over the timing belt so they want to replace that too, but since something that was not under power train (oil pressure sensor switch) leaked over the timing belt all is out of pocket.
Click to expand...

Man, you gotta hand it to these ripoff artists. Even the Liar in Chief would have a hard time rolling so many lies into one statement. Lie 1: all the sensors on the engine are part of the powertrain. Lie 2: somehow an unrelated part failure hurting the powertrain voids the powertrain warranty and obviously Lie 3 is replacing a non-existent part. Man, that's a doozy right there! LOL
 
Just an FYI - it's unlikely you need a new pressure sensor if that is the leak. You should simply remove, clean threads, coat threads with blue loctite (toyota 1344) and re-install. 11 lb ft of torque. You'll need a 24mm deep socket to remove. Otherwise it probably takes about 30 minutes to do this job. It is quite unusual to have a leak there and I would still seek a second opinion on this one. If it is - it's a very easy fix.

Good luck.
 
And if it were dripping on the timing CHAIN why would that matter? The chain is lubricated by engine oil.

Maybe they are talking about the serpentine belt?
 
assassin said:
So Oil Pressure Sensor Switch is leaking and it leaked all over the timing belt so they want to replace that too. Apparently its all over the timing belt so they want to replace that too, but since something that was not under power train (oil pressure sensor switch) leaked over the timing belt all is out of pocket.
Click to expand...

I'm gonna speculate that the call for the belt replacement is a miscommunication somewhere in the relay chain.

I'm sure they mean the serpentine belt. If it is oil soaked then recommending replacement is the right pro call to avoid a service come-back. As a DIY I'd just clean it with brake cleaner.

The sensor can be had for less than $20 at almost any parts store. It is easily accessible through the right wheel well, just remove a splash flap and you can see it. As others have stated it takes a 24mm deep socket and blue 242 locktite. It's a 30 minute job including the locktite cure time.

Also, despite what others are saying, sensors and switches are NOT covered under the >36k- <60k powertrain warranty. The covered items are specifically
itemized.
 
So, I have an oil leak in the same general vicinity. I replaced the Oil Filter Housing gasket and it did slow my leak but not stop it completely. I will try the sensor next and if that doesn't work it's on to the Front Crank Seal.
 
You can always use a thicker oil as a band-aid. This engine specs up to a 40w depending on climate. Most on BITOG use a 5w-30 in this motor, others use 40w. Anyone who tells you that "the oil passages are designed for 0w-20" is a sign they are clueless. Good luck.
 
assassin said:
1000 miles later leak is still there pretty sure I just got scammed
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Are you saying the dealer replaced the sensor and serpentine belt, and that you have an oil leak at the oil pressure sensor after 1000 miles? Or are you saying they performed that work and there is a yet to be defined leak?
 
They completed the work I needed to drive back home and didn’t want to risk leaking oil as I was driving.

Still a leak somewhere.
 
Might be the Front Crank seal, pretty sure that is where I'm leaking. At least it doesn't look too hard to change. I'll probably give it a go next weekend.
 
Oil leaking not sure of cause

Have oil leaking here. Any idea of the source?
 

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Me too

I have a 2011 ... was told after last oil change that I have an oil leak "seep" in the front of the engine. Going in Monday for diagnosis. Can't help thinking it could be a $2500 repair which I can't afford.
 
2nd Gen - 2005-2015 1GR-FE Tacoma's are known to leak at the timing cover. While the 5th Gen 4R and 2nd Gen Tacoma both use the 1GR-FE engine, they are not the same in all respects. I know that things north of the block are different, but believe the blocks are the same.
There's an extensive write-up on how to redo timing cover seal on a 2nd gen Tacoma at:

tacomaworld.com
 
Lester Lugnut said:
2nd Gen - 2005-2015 1GR-FE Tacoma's are known to leak at the timing cover. While the 5th Gen 4R and 2nd Gen Tacoma both use the 1GR-FE engine, they are not the same in all respects. I know that things north of the block are different, but believe the blocks are the same.
There's an extensive write-up on how to redo timing cover seal on a 2nd gen Tacoma at:

tacomaworld.com
Click to expand...

Thanks, Lester. I'm not at all mechanically inclined so won't be redoing the timing cover seal myself. This is depressing. I owned two Subaru Outbacks and re-did the head gaskets on both for thousands of dollars. I gave up on Subarus and bought this 2011 4Runner that I thought would go another 100k with no problems. Now, it's like deja vu all over again. I bought a '97 4Runner for my son - he has been driving it for 10 years with no major issues.
 
Bkrgirl said:
They used Toyota 0W20 synthetic
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Yeah, 0W20 is ONLY to meet CAFE standards. (MPG)
(Corporate Average Fuel Economy is aiming at about 49.6 mpg in 2025).

But I don't want to really get into it here as many don't do anything outside what is RECOMMENDED (because of CAFE standards) in the manual.
Oil is "supposed" to be based on temperature and operating conditions, but only in the USA are they going crazy.
You can read what some say about both sides here.
Oil viscosity


Little off topic...
They basically want to eliminate the gasoline internal combustion (Then diesel) engine it seems. And make it prohibitively expensive to own/maintain a vehicle.
(Yet our asphalt roads are paved in black gold/oil)

I am in the construction industry... and they even have an all-electric backhoe.
https://www.casece.com/northamerica/en-us/products/backhoe-loaders/580ev-project-zeus

 
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I just took it to an independent repair shop - he confirmed it's the timing cover. Estimate - $2000. Oh yay! Now I just have to decide if/when to do this. He said it's one of the worst leaks he's seen. Also, need to decide whether to cancel diagnostic appointment at the dealer - cost will be $130 and I already know what the problem is.
 
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Bkrgirl said:
Thanks, Lester. I'm not at all mechanically inclined so won't be redoing the timing cover seal myself. This is depressing. I owned two Subaru Outbacks and re-did the head gaskets on both for thousands of dollars. I gave up on Subarus and bought this 2011 4Runner that I thought would go another 100k with no problems. Now, it's like deja vu all over again. I bought a '97 4Runner for my son - he has been driving it for 10 years with no major issues.
Click to expand...

Try not to be bummed about this. If there is any vehicle worth going after leaks and getting things fixed up, it is your 4Runner. Make sure you have top notch mechanic and they give you a year warranty on the work. Sometimes leaks take a few passes to get right.
 
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