5th Gen Engine Oil Leak at 50k

[delloro]

Not sure I get you as that can be taken two ways.
Since your previous comments, I should take that as a dig?

If so, please feel free to debunk anything I said about the Finger Lakes, Glacial Erratics and anything else.

That happened LONG before the internal combustion engine, and even industrious man. :sad::sad::sad:

Enjoy.

Not really.

 

[Nobody Special]

Not really.

That is what these are for :attention:

 

[cnLeeMajors]

Sounds like mine!

Hello,

Recently I was impatient and let a local Valvoline perform an oil change on my 5th gen. Never had an issue previously. Mileage 54K. Discovered persistent oil leak since. Took it to dealer after finding leak. They initially diagnosed a cracked oil canister housing. Replaced it at a cost of $288. Didn’t help. Brought it back. They determined that it must have been a bad part. Installed another. Same issue. Have to take it back this weekend. Visit number 4.

Like you I don’t believe it’s the canister or housing but something else. Likely something upstream of the canister and housing …gaskets or seals of some sort?

I hate myself for creating this issue when there was none.

I’ll keep an eye on your thread to see what happens with your vehicle. Good luck.

 

[Simonpk]

anyway - just replacement on my 2014 with 161,000km the VVTi oil pipe on the passenger side. The crush washer was leaking at the bottom behind the power steering pump. Pretty easy to do provided airbag, PS pump is unbolted and skid plate off. Those banjo bolts are on really tight so used 6-point socket. Torqued back to 48 lbs/ft as spec.

Now question I have is that the electrical wire that comes out of the pump pressure switch comes fixed to a bracket with a hole in it to bolt it down. I didn't notice where this came off when I unbolted the pump . Search for images came up nothing for me.

Does anyone know which of the 3 PS bolts it came from and should it be behind the bolt head ?

Much appreciated & weep/seep/drip totally fixed for sake of the $3 banjo washer

 

[CutthroatSlam]

Had a leak at the rear main seal at 360K miles on the 2014. Poured an 8 oz bottle of Blue Devil Rear Main Seal Stop Leak in it after changing the oil and the leak stopped within a couple hundred miles.

 

[Rocko9999]

Had a leak at the rear main seal at 360K miles on the 2014. Poured an 8 oz bottle of Blue Devil Rear Main Seal Stop Leak in it after changing the oil and the leak stopped within a couple hundred miles.

How many miles since it stopped?

 

[CutthroatSlam]

How many miles since it stopped?

3,200 miles. I completely cleaned the area around the leak and it has been dry since.

 

[Rocko9999]

3,200 miles. I completely cleaned the area around the leak and it has been dry since.

That's fantastic.

 

[lpsoldia311]

Anyone else had a slight leak they haven't been able to trace? I followed most of the easier alternatives listed here and replaced the oil pressure sensor and VVTi piping and that area is nice and clean without issue. Put some leftover Toyota FIPG from another priest over that timing cover intersection to be safe. Put in leak dye but still getting eventual oil mist and film accumulating from the belts and fan slinging oil from somewhere. After 15 minutes oil drops start forming at front bottom of the engine mainly around the oil cooler bracket and everything is slightly luminescent so i know the dye works and the leak is still there. Even paid Toyota for a 1 hr diagnostic and the tech showed me while running he agrees there's a small leak but no can't identify the source either until it gets worse.

At this point I'm debating whether to replace the front main crank seal, the crank pulley *seems* to have slightly more luminescence than anything else but it's not 100% clear. The oil cooler and filter housing don't seem to be the source either, they just slowly accumulate a film on them. Out of ideas on what else could even be an oil leak path to the serpentine belt and resulting misty spray at this point.

 

[1100 Remington Man]

I thought I was getting a leak as there was some oil by the drain plug. I have 50,000 on a 2022 TRD Pro.
I tried to get it n for an oil change and the dealer who did all my service was booked out for a week and a half and I wanted it done for the holiday.
So I just changed it my self. What did I find a bolt missing on the TRD skid plate and to take the other three out I only used my fingers. I then found on the drain plug there was no crush washer on it.
I will be grease it Thursday as I have a new grease gun coming.
I think I will be doing more of my service. They blew it.

 

[johnnygraphic]

I thought I was getting a leak as there was some oil by the drain plug. I have 50,000 on a 2022 TRD Pro.
I tried to get it n for an oil change and the dealer who did all my service was booked out for a week and a half and I wanted it done for the holiday.
So I just changed it my self. What did I find a bolt missing on the TRD skid plate and to take the other three out I only used my fingers. I then found on the drain plug there was no crush washer on it.
I will be grease it Thursday as I have a new grease gun coming.
I think I will be doing more of my service. They blew it.

Whatever you do, get the car in for inspection for any oil leaks especially the front timing cover leak before your warranty is up. This way, if it is the timing cover, you can have the dealership cover it on their dime, not yours. They have to pull the engine out to repair it properly.

I'm still fighting on mine at 5 years and 2 mos old and 31k miles. So far, they have NOT agreed to a goodwill repair. $6,500.

 

[premise]

To those quick to assume that their lives will be improved via a dealer/warranty "fix," perhaps consider the impact on your life of oil seeps vs. actual leaks first.