5th Gen Oil Recommendation? New Owner!

[Hammer0313]

This is some interesting information about the basics of engine oil and some testing by the American Automobile Association (AAA) from 2017.

https://www.ilma.org/PDF/ILMANews/2017/AAAreport.pdf

 

[callihan_44]

just wanted to post some info on quaker state ultimate durability 0w-20 for people who may be looking for something to quiet their engine down, neighbor has a '15 4runner with 80k on it and he has been running QSUD in his and I compared my '16 with under 40k miles running mobil 1 0w-20 advanced fuel economy doing a cold start @ 30f degrees outdoor temp. Basically start the engine and sit in the vehicle with everything turned off inside I could tell his engine sounded less like a diesel motor than mine did, once the engine is warmed up the "tick" almost completely goes away. Now from what he tells me the Toyota oil is slightly more quiet than the QSUD but costs a lot more. That being said I probably will stick with mobil 1 and give the extended protection oil a try, mainly after seeing the QSUD comes in an unsealed container plus I can find mobil 1 everywhere where QSUD was only at Walmart around here...most of the containers at Walmart looked like they had leaked a little with oil run down the sides, and whos to say someone couldn't contaminate the oil ? Yeah the oil is cheap and obviously good but seal the container and charge $1 more!

 

[GNB]

The 7-11 Convenient Store brand of reconstituted oil is the best !:bravo:

The above of course is a joke and not to be taken seriously !!

Mobil 1 0-20 Full Synthetic works for me.

 

[Tuco S.]

I just dumped the factory fill at 8k miles in my 4R, since I've done a fair amount of short trips the past few months. Filled with Havoline Pro DS 0W-20 from the 6 quart box. I also serviced my wife's Subaru a couple weeks ago using the same oil.

I must say both engines are noticeably quieter now, and we're both seeing a bump in fuel economy since the change: +0.5 mpg in mine and 3+ mpg in her Subaru.

Prior to this oil change she had all her oil changes done at the Subaru dealer. I think those apes at Subaru must be using some cheap bulk oil, probably not even a 0W-20.

 

[2016 4Runner SR5]

Anyone know if there is any difference between these two oils besides the bottles? Green label was purchased about a year ago, black label was purchased a week ago. Did the first oil change on my 2019 Highlander tonight since it rolled 2,000 miles and this is what I used along with an OEM filter.

 

[ElectroBoy]

Anyone know if there is any difference between these two oils besides the bottles? Green label was purchased about a year ago, black label was purchased a week ago. Did the first oil change on my 2019 Highlander tonight since it rolled 2,000 miles and this is what I used along with an OEM filter.

Old label 2015. New label 2018. Same oil.

 

[2016 4Runner SR5]

Old label 2015. New label 2018. Same oil.

Figured that was the case but never know. I like the old label better lol

 

[Jivewalker]

Anyone know if there is any difference between these two oils besides the bottles? Green label was purchased about a year ago, black label was purchased a week ago. Did the first oil change on my 2019 Highlander tonight since it rolled 2,000 miles and this is what I used along with an OEM filter.

I believe there is a thread on this over at BITOG. I believe there is a difference and I believe I read the new formulation was better, based on someones opinion of course. I thnik it had something to do with a better moly? Search over there and you'll find it.

 

[MidniteTRD]

Yes sir, that QSUD is good oil! I used it in my old GMC 2500 with amazing results. I just did my first oil change and went with my all time favorite Amsoil; I used it religiously when I was canyon racing. 6200 RPM’s over and over hour after hour month after month and my UOA’s from blackstone were Perfect.
I’ll post my UOA on my next change also.
On a side note, it’s important to get that factory oil out at 2-3k miles, I had silver glitter in the bottom of my oil filter housing last night when I dumped the factory fill. The filter itself had some too! That’s one thing I like about the oil filter, easy to inspect.

Amsoil is great stuff as well, although i think their products make the most sense for drivers doing extended drain intervals. either way, i would run any of their product lines with confidence.

my factory fill was drained at 600 miles; i left the filter alone though. i felt the filter media has enough capacity and the drain was done early enough that it didn't really need replacement.

a lot of posters here will not agree with me (if other threads have been any indicaiton) but i actually plan to run the 5W-30 grade of QSUD for many reasons that i think have merit. i hope my eventual UOA's will help provide useful data and conversation.

 

[alico268]

a lot of posters here will not agree with me (if other threads have been any indicaiton) but i actually plan to run the 5W-30 grade of QSUD for many reasons that i think have merit. i hope my eventual UOA's will help provide useful data and conversation.

I feel the same way. It's only in this market that 0w-20 is called for when this engine is featured in the global 150 platform. I've heard all the reasons (engine tolerances and oil passages are tighter, most wear occurs right at start up, etc.) to use 0w-20, but if it's really what the engineers had in mind for the GR family of engines, why do they not recommend it for other markets where it is sold?

I don't want to wear the foil hat, but politicians have greater say than engineers and auto companies have to meet many requirements to be able to sell a product here in the US. If they didn't, we would all be rolling around in 70 series Land Cruisers *****ing about how harsh the ride is and why we need a key to start the ignition.

Though the manual recommends and almost scares you into using 0w-20, the manual also states, 'The 20 in 0w-20 indicates the viscosity characteristic of the of the oil when the oil is at high temperature. An oil with a higher viscosity (one with a higher value) may be better suited if the vehicle is operated at high speeds, or under extreme load conditions.'

There is a good thread at BITOG about the issue with good arguments on both sides and in the end you have to make the decision. For me, I know that 0w-20 will not cause my engine to die an early death, but at the same time I might be able to run a better protecting oil instead of one that was made as a concession for a government policy maker.

Alternate 4Runner Oil - Bob Is The Oil Guy

 

[Tuco S.]

Amsoil is great stuff as well, although i think their products make the most sense for drivers doing extended drain intervals. either way, i would run any of their product lines with confidence.

my factory fill was drained at 600 miles; i left the filter alone though. i felt the filter media has enough capacity and the drain was done early enough that it didn't really need replacement.

a lot of posters here will not agree with me (if other threads have been any indicaiton) but i actually plan to run the 5W-30 grade of QSUD for many reasons that i think have merit. i hope my eventual UOA's will help provide useful data and conversation.

If I had some 5W-30 on hand, I wouldn't be afraid to use it in the 4Runner. But if I'm buying new oil, you really can't beat a good 0W-20, and there are lots of good ones to choose from.

Do us a favor and track your mileage on fuelly.com, and then report back on any differences between the 5W-30 and 0W-20. I would be interested to know if your fuel economy takes a hit.

 

[MidniteTRD]

If I had some 5W-30 on hand, I wouldn't be afraid to use it in the 4Runner. But if I'm buying new oil, you really can't beat a good 0W-20, and there are lots of good ones to choose from.

Do us a favor and track your mileage on fuelly.com, and then report back on any differences between the 5W-30 and 0W-20. I would be interested to know if your fuel economy takes a hit.

i respect anyone's decision to stick with a 20wt! it should be fine for most applications. i'll outline the specifics of why i went the route i did when i eventually post a UOA.

i should add that after dumping the factory fill, i'm currently running M1 5W-30 (which is practically a 20 weight after a couple thousand miles!). its not my favorite oil by far, but i had it on hand and it'll be dumped soon...fine for now.

i actually have a Fuelly account and have just been too scatterbrained to update it with my 4runner info....so thanks for the reminder. i need to start tracking that. that said, i've been calculating the mileage by hand for a while now while killing time at the pump and so far over the last few months fuel mileage is exactly in line with the advertised numbers, whether it was using the factory 20wt fill or the new 30wt fill. i think tires, lifts, and bumper/roof rack modifications that disturb the aero make a far greater difference.

 

[ElectroBoy]

GF-6 and API SP is coming May 1 2020!!!

Get Ready for GF-6 Motor Oil | MOTOR

This whole discussion is going to have to start again once the new ILSAC GF-6A API SP oils come out in 2020. Ha! Let the games begin!

 

[Hammer0313]

OK guys here is an update:

The aluminum housing did not work for me, it didn’t leak but it did Seep oil very slowly. And the center tube didn’t seat very good at all, the slightest movement from side to side it would pop out. This was the OEM aluminum housing from Toyota! FYI- No need to bend the tabs to get the center tube out.

Rear Diff: Just look at the photos, rig only has 2966 miles on it and the gear oil looked worn. Glad I got that out!

 

[Lester Lugnut]

You could change a lot of lubricants, drive a short distance, drain and see that the COLOR had changed.

Judging lube by color is incorrect. If you really want to know how things are going, send the fluid off to a lab -> Blackstone.

There was no reason to change gear lube in your 4R at the mileage you reported.

Throughout this thread, you have been overthinking all of this lube stuff.

 

[CutthroatSlam]

Last oil change at 200K miles I put in Rotella Truck Gas Engine 0w20 full synthetic:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cx8XYVh8sJ0&feature=youtu.be


$21.57 per 5 qt bottle at WalMart.

 

[Hammer0313]

You could change a lot of lubricants, drive a short distance, drain and see that the COLOR had changed.

Judging lube by color is incorrect. If you really want to know how things are going, send the fluid off to a lab -> Blackstone.

There was no reason to change gear lube in your 4R at the mileage you reported.

Throughout this thread, you have been overthinking all of this lube stuff.

My maintenance schedules are sound and have served me well over my lifetime. I have a fair understanding of lubrication and what’s best for me personally. My interpretation of thing might be different from yours but that’s life. :moon:

 

[CutthroatSlam]

My maintenance schedules are sound and have served me well over my lifetime. I have a fair understanding of lubrication and what’s best for me personally. My interpretation of thing might be different from yours but that’s life. :moon:

On outboard motors and outdrives, synthetic gear oil will darken from just sitting in the gear box. Just saying. But it seems like you know everything.

 

[ElectroBoy]

OK guys here is an update:

The aluminum housing did not work for me, it didn’t leak but it did Seep oil very slowly. And the center tube didn’t seat very good at all, the slightest movement from side to side it would pop out. This was the OEM aluminum housing from Toyota! FYI- No need to bend the tabs to get the center tube out.
...

OK. So what did you do after discovering the leak (seepage)?
Where was the leak?
Did you snug the oil filter housing to the proper torque of 18 lb-ft, and drain plug to 9 lb-ft?
Were the gaskets installed properly and oiled up well before installation?

Unless the aluminum housing was cast improperly with interface irregularities or threads cut wrong, the problem is almost always a misplaced or pinched gasket. Or the housing was not tightened enough to compress the gasket.

In other words, operator error.

 

[2016 4Runner SR5]

OK guys here is an update:

The aluminum housing did not work for me, it didn’t leak but it did Seep oil very slowly. And the center tube didn’t seat very good at all, the slightest movement from side to side it would pop out. This was the OEM aluminum housing from Toyota! FYI- No need to bend the tabs to get the center tube out.

Rear Diff: Just look at the photos, rig only has 2966 miles on it and the gear oil looked worn. Glad I got that out!

You're the only one I have seen with fitment issues using the OEM aluminum housing. I put one on my 2016 4Runner, 2019 Highlander, and I bought one for my Dad for his 2019 4Runner. All of them fit like a glove with zero issues. Not sure what's going on with yours but there is more to the story. As for the gear oil, good call. I swapped mine front and rear at 11K and there was A LOT of speckle in the rear diff fluid. Front looked brand new but I was still happy to get it out of there. Engine oil every 5k, gear oil every 30k, transmission and transfer case every 50k Absolutely no one will convince me otherwise either. It is literally impossible to over maintain a vehicle. I challenge the people that say "you're overthinking it" to prove me wrong.