5vz-fe Removal
- Thread starter jmt2404
- Start date
STI_MECE
New member
I got no clue what is leaking. It all leaks everywhere lol
It's like taking a dingy in the lake and watching all the holes pop out with water going through them and you only got two arms and legs to cover them lol
I need more hands and legs to cover the leaks. But honestly, yeah, I got not a damn clue to veriy if it's leaking.
I think the oil pan was taken off at some point. It has white looking rtv around it. Did Toyota use FPIG from factory?
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Mine has a whiteish/gray sealant as well. I believe it is sealed from the factory with this. I was going to reseal, but considering it isn't leaking, I decided to leave it be.
I'm sure someone else will chime in!
phattyduck
Elite Member
How about this one from my old parts truck. This is rusty by California standards (see that surface rust on the diff?!?!? :helloEngine bay porn from those southern trucks. . Man is that rust free..lol. Glad it came out easy.
. You can see the broken ADD switch too:
-Charlie
UnderFire
New member
Yep all stamped steel oil pans on this Era of Toyota came with Gray FIPG from the factory. You can use permatex gray or copper RTV to reseal. If you do, make sure to peen the holes in the pan to get the bolts to pull on the pan.
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binqker
New member
The engine came out with zero fuss. Like a freaking glove!!!
Broke the engine mount nuts and had it out in five minutes.
I took Charlie's advice and move the main hook up a few links.
Propped a jack under the bell housing to catch the transmission and shook the engine just a hair and the hoist just floated the engine. I didn't even realize it slid off the bell housing it was so smooth.
But I did g up the links to not pick up on it evenly and I let the slight torsion in the chain help me move it. After that it was slowly coming up albeit the passenger side head rotated forward at the end of it. But that's okay because all you gotta do is maneuver the hoist to counter twise and it will come out straight.
That was a hell of alot easier than I expected.
Thanks everyone for the help! Get the donor engine Saturday. Gunna do alot of TLC and restore this thing engine bay to it's oil free glory now
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Next time remove front wheels and lower the front end that way you have good clearance when lifting the engine out. Just a tip! hah.
brillo_76
Elite Member
How about this one from my old parts truck. This is rusty by California standards (see that surface rust on the diff?!?!? :hello
-Charlie
Just wait till I pull my engine out of the parts mobile.. I show you some good northern chrome..LOL. Or what I refer to as PA Chrome in the Iron Oxide Variant.
Thats not rusty yet. Surface rust is all that is.
sleepydad
Senior Member
wire stuff
[MENTION=409002]STI_MECE[/MENTION]
I know you sent a PM but I will post it in the thread just in case anybody else is interested.
full disclose statement.
I pulled the complete interior and engine bay harness out of a parts truck. this was my model when I re-wrapped my harness. it was a complete pain but I'm glad I did it. it's really hard to remember exactly how toyota wrapped the harness once you have it apart unless you have a model or take a lot of pictures.
the painless wrap came from amazon.
1/4, 1/2, 3/4
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000N8GOV8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000N8K8GU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000N8IR2W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I did not use all of it but I used most of the 1/4, 1/2
Since the plastic part of the engine harness was still in very good condition I left it as is. I only did the cat connections, transfer, transmission. I stopped right where the harness comes up next to the engine oil fill cap. if your going to do the "on top of the engine part" take a paint pen and write the injector connection # on each plug. if the big plastic raceway is messed up you really have no other options as I don't think this is a part you can get from toyota?
I also did the starter harness. My starter wire was cracked and exposed in a couple of spots so it was time. I used all of the 3/4" wire loom on this. I used anchor marine grade stuff with anchor lugs/connections. big stuff and high quality.
it's pretty easy to do the starter harness if you remove it from the fuse box/battery. if you decide to disassembly the white plastic raceway that routes the starter around the front of the engine? you will have to use zip ties or something like that if you re-use it. the clips will crack or break and or get messed up if you disassemble it. also don't forget that the crank pulley gets in the way if you decide to re=run this harness. I think you will need to sneak the wire/raceway into the spot before you do the crank pulley. maybe brute force will get it back into it's spot but... I did not toque my crank until I have the starter wire harness re-run on the front of the engine.
[MENTION=409002]STI_MECE[/MENTION]
I know you sent a PM but I will post it in the thread just in case anybody else is interested.
full disclose statement.
I pulled the complete interior and engine bay harness out of a parts truck. this was my model when I re-wrapped my harness. it was a complete pain but I'm glad I did it. it's really hard to remember exactly how toyota wrapped the harness once you have it apart unless you have a model or take a lot of pictures.
the painless wrap came from amazon.
1/4, 1/2, 3/4
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000N8GOV8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000N8K8GU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000N8IR2W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I did not use all of it but I used most of the 1/4, 1/2
Since the plastic part of the engine harness was still in very good condition I left it as is. I only did the cat connections, transfer, transmission. I stopped right where the harness comes up next to the engine oil fill cap. if your going to do the "on top of the engine part" take a paint pen and write the injector connection # on each plug. if the big plastic raceway is messed up you really have no other options as I don't think this is a part you can get from toyota?
I also did the starter harness. My starter wire was cracked and exposed in a couple of spots so it was time. I used all of the 3/4" wire loom on this. I used anchor marine grade stuff with anchor lugs/connections. big stuff and high quality.
it's pretty easy to do the starter harness if you remove it from the fuse box/battery. if you decide to disassembly the white plastic raceway that routes the starter around the front of the engine? you will have to use zip ties or something like that if you re-use it. the clips will crack or break and or get messed up if you disassemble it. also don't forget that the crank pulley gets in the way if you decide to re=run this harness. I think you will need to sneak the wire/raceway into the spot before you do the crank pulley. maybe brute force will get it back into it's spot but... I did not toque my crank until I have the starter wire harness re-run on the front of the engine.
Last edited:
STI_MECE
New member
Got the donor engine with service records. I got an ECU and the harness with it. But it should be all plug and play with mine.
If anyone wants a harness might sell it for the right price!
As well as the ECU not sure how valuable that is.
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If anyone wants a harness might sell it for the right price!
As well as the ECU not sure how valuable that is.
Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
STI_MECE
New member
Just wanted to throw out an update. Engine is almost getting ready to go back in...I have swapped everything off that I needed and I got new engine mounts, transmission mount, valve covers swapped over. I did not redo the Engine harness but what I did do is clean it up plastic safe contact cleaner, and I took some nice 3m electrical tape and tesa tape and repaired areas that look deteriorated.
I did just realize I put my starter harness bracket upside down and my crank bolt is already torqued lol [MENTION=168172]sleepydad[/MENTION] I swear I feel like I can't read sometimes.
And just some advice for people who need to remove an engine from a wrecked 4runner... A 30 dollar harbor Freight reciprocating saw will be your best friend.
And breaker bars, an assortment of extensions (every Length you can get your hands on) And swivel sockets.
And back up ratchets of each size. The last bell housing bolt on the Engine we pulled was in a serious bind. I had to break the bolt by pulling the shifter out of the interior and putting extensions together so that the ratchet would come out of of the shifter hole and into the cab.
We couldn't break the bolt down below and we had a 1.5' long 1/2 inch ratchet. Mind you, my friend who is 6'-7" and about 275 didn't have enough muscle to break it under the truck.
Once I got the ratchet in the cab, my buddy held his hand on the ratchet to keep it in line with the bolt and I had to take all my 175 sweet lbs to break it loose. The ratchet was no more after that.
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I did just realize I put my starter harness bracket upside down and my crank bolt is already torqued lol [MENTION=168172]sleepydad[/MENTION] I swear I feel like I can't read sometimes.
And just some advice for people who need to remove an engine from a wrecked 4runner... A 30 dollar harbor Freight reciprocating saw will be your best friend.
And breaker bars, an assortment of extensions (every Length you can get your hands on) And swivel sockets.
And back up ratchets of each size. The last bell housing bolt on the Engine we pulled was in a serious bind. I had to break the bolt by pulling the shifter out of the interior and putting extensions together so that the ratchet would come out of of the shifter hole and into the cab.
We couldn't break the bolt down below and we had a 1.5' long 1/2 inch ratchet. Mind you, my friend who is 6'-7" and about 275 didn't have enough muscle to break it under the truck.
Once I got the ratchet in the cab, my buddy held his hand on the ratchet to keep it in line with the bolt and I had to take all my 175 sweet lbs to break it loose. The ratchet was no more after that.
Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
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