5vz rebuild

Doc, thanks for the offer but I already have a fsm in PDF as well. I thought about printing it but it works fine for now on the laptop in the garage.

As for the motor, ill finish pulling the engine and take it apart. Ill have a machine shop take a look at the heads too as long as the bottom end appears to be healthy. Ill make a definite decision once I know exactly what it's going to cost. I would absolutely love to build a new engine and paint it up and have a fresh power plant but I need to see what is going to be the best cost effective approach.

Kidv: from my experience in rebuilding engines, it's best to get a me crankshaft. A junkyard crank will be about 50 bucks then another 100 or so to get the machine work done to it. Basically a machine shop will drill out the sludge traps in the crank and clean it all out and install new sludge traps. Then to be safe they will polish the crank too. I can get a new crank online for a couple hundred bucks... This is assuming the crank is bad though but I don't know anything about the bottom end yet.
 
I finally found some time to pull the motor and tear it apart. Turns out my guess was wrong and the noise was in fact coming from the bottom end of the engine. The #2 rod bearing was spun.

Here's the #1 rod bearing which is a somewhat healthy bearing for having 256k miles on it:


And here's the #2 bearing that was spun and is obviously destroyed:


Out of the 256,000 miles on this engine, 100,000 miles were with a supercharger and the engine was dyno tuned to 250hp and 300 ft/lbs torque. I have heard that these blocks can safely handle more than that so I don't know if this engine just had a life of 1/4 million miles or if the supercharger helped wear it down?

So, with the spun bearing there is obviously damage to the crank. With the cost of machine work on the crank I might as well get a new crank. Now that I know I am looking at new left and right heads, new crank, full rebuild kit, machine work on the engine block, fluids and misc parts and pieces... I need to weigh my options on either rebuilding what I have or buying an assembled long block.

Anyone know of good sources for long block engines? I know jasper only sells to dealers and they're about 4k or so. I have seen suppliers sell them for around 2k so if I can get a long block for 2k that seems like a better option than rebuilding. Not completely sure though.
[MENTION=94888]EatonKyleH[/MENTION] Any recommendations for long block engines?
 
SV_Dude said:
I finally found some time to pull the motor and tear it apart. Turns out my guess was wrong and the noise was in fact coming from the bottom end of the engine. The #2 rod bearing was spun.

Here's the #1 rod bearing which is a somewhat healthy bearing for having 256k miles on it:


And here's the #2 bearing that was spun and is obviously destroyed:


Out of the 256,000 miles on this engine, 100,000 miles were with a supercharger and the engine was dyno tuned to 250hp and 300 ft/lbs torque. I have heard that these blocks can safely handle more than that so I don't know if this engine just had a life of 1/4 million miles or if the supercharger helped wear it down?

So, with the spun bearing there is obviously damage to the crank. With the cost of machine work on the crank I might as well get a new crank. Now that I know I am looking at new left and right heads, new crank, full rebuild kit, machine work on the engine block, fluids and misc parts and pieces... I need to weigh my options on either rebuilding what I have or buying an assembled long block.

Anyone know of good sources for long block engines? I know jasper only sells to dealers and they're about 4k or so. I have seen suppliers sell them for around 2k so if I can get a long block for 2k that seems like a better option than rebuilding. Not completely sure though.

[MENTION=94888]EatonKyleH[/MENTION] Any recommendations for long block engines?
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I'm a Jasper dealer and would gladly pass on my price to you being that you are local and if you can pick it up and just pay me for it then. Want me to get a price on that for you? I'm off until Tuesday but can get rolling on it then if you want to take me up on it.
 
I'm a Jasper dealer and would gladly pass on my price to you being that you are local
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[MENTION=94888]EatonKyleH[/MENTION]

What does a Jasper engine normally go for?

Not the exact one you are offering to SV_Dude but in general, what range does this type of 2nd-hand engine go for and what kind of specs / mileage / warranty does it come with?

Thanks
 
BrianSD_42 said:
[MENTION=94888]EatonKyleH[/MENTION]

What does a Jasper engine normally go for?

Not the exact one you are offering to SV_Dude but in general, what range does this type of 2nd-hand engine go for and what kind of specs / mileage / warranty does it come with?

Thanks
Click to expand...


I wish I could be more helpful with a price but they vary dramatically and I am way to used to seeing everything at wholesale/dealer prices and won't be able to look up anything even this one for SV_Dude until I get back from vacation on Tuesday. My closest guess miiiigggghhhhttt be within 1000 dollars so I feel that's barely accurate enough.

Jasper sells reman engines, transmission, diffs, and even performance crate engines. They are total remanufactured (in the usa) engines all machined, all new internals, and fit to OE spec. They are OE replacement engine suppliers for some makes.

They carry a 3 year 100,000 mile nationwide transferable warranty.

The tricky part typically is that they are only available through a recognized dealer and they won't warranty it if it was not installed by a dealer. Being that SV-Dude is local I can side step it basically claiming it is my vehicle if we ever had to go down that road. (SHHHH!!!)

They make a really good product and stand behind it. I have a co worker with over 200k on a Jasper built 3.0 in his second gen with no real issues other than the normal maintenance and other junk unrelated to the engine.

Its usually out of my customers budget to go down this road with an engine because after it sees our shop mark up on the engine itself, labor, and everything else they either go with a used engine or junk it. As of late I've mostly used them for automatic transmissions as they use typically better clutch packs than were used originally (Ford comes to mind).

Hope this gives you the idea. It's just difficult to talk price because SV_Dude and I would have kind of a rare way to make this happen outside of their dealer network :spy:. I can however look up a particular engine for you and send what you would expect to pay for it retail.

I may also post the going retail price of their 3.4 but outside of helping out a local dude I don't feel I should be tossing around my cost on parts because I'm trying to avoid sounding like a turd/show off and I don't want to get to crazy with anything that would jeopardize my working relationships. Hope you can understand.
 
No problem, I totally understand now.

I just wasn't sure who / what Jasper engines were until your post and was curious where they fell in the pricing range.

It sounds like SV_Dude might be in for a deal :spy:
 
KidVermicious said:
I know a couple guys that have been happy with the 22 motors they bought from ToyotaCarPart.com, but I guess they changed their name and that always makes me nervous... Toyota Engine 5VZE 5VZ 3.4L v6 Long Block 1995-2004
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I am going to be patient and see if things can work out for a jasper engine. BUT, I have considered using those guys. They are local to me and have a good warranty and their price isn't too bad for a complete long block.
 
There was some posts that were lost when the server was backed up but this project is more or less complete. Ill post pics later but I have another engine in and just took it for a test drive. All I have to say is I am in live with this runner. The supercharged 3.4 with the 6 injector kit, 2.1 pulley and tuning puts out gobs of power! I used to have a 350z and I honestly think this runner gives my 350z a run for its money in the power department.

Thanks to [MENTION=94888]EatonKyleH[/MENTION] for hooking me up on prices on the jasper engine. I didn't end up using that engine but through several pm's he was still very helpful in helping me get my runner fixed.

I ended up picking up an engine from a salvaged 4runner that was rolled. The engine has 134k on it and has 175psi on all 6 cylinders. I replaced the water pump, timing belt, valve cover gaskets, and rear main seal before installing the engine.

The engine started up first try with no hiccup (minus a dead battery issue) and purred like a kitten. Ill get a sound clip up soon but it has a pretty sweet exhaust and with the exhaust tone and super charger noise, I fell in love instantly!
 
And the pics:

Picked up the engine from the salvage yard. It was dirty and had a bunch of extra stuff on it.


Got the engine thrown on the engine stand and stripped down. I got it cleaned up as good as I could without getting too overboard with it. It is definitely clean enough to clearly see leaks and that was my main concern.



This is definitely not the final outcome after the cleaning. I let it soak again and scrubbed it with a wire brush and hosed it off again.



After I replaced some seals and built the engine up as much as I can before installing it, it was finally time to get it thrown in the 4runner.



All buttoned up minus the power steering belt, ac belt, fan shroud and hood. What can I say, it was a long day and I was too inpatient to wait any longer to get it fired up and enjoy the fruits of my labor.



This is the first 3.4 engine I have worked on and aside from the lack of room in the engine bay it's a pretty simple engine and was a good experience. At this point I know exactly what I have under the hood and its exact condition. I am pretty good about taking very good care of my engines and doing preventative maintenance so hopefully this engine will last me a very long time.
 
so you went through all that work and SCd it and didnt bother to put headers on it while it was out... ? am i missing something ?:shrug:
 
the kid said:
so you went through all that work and SCd it and didnt bother to put headers on it while it was out... ? am i missing something ?:shrug:
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I really like the idea of putting a good set of headers on the engine but they are 600-700 bucks and I would rather throw that extra money at offroad goodies. I did buy a new miller welder since I finished the project under budget so I'll start building some armor before the moab trip in October. Besides, this 4runner is already pretty darn powerful so I don't think that 600+ bucks is a very good move at this time for the somewhat small amount of power that it will give me.
 
fair enough. i know that if i ever have to take my motor out its not going back in unless there is new ceramic coated headers on it. the only way you can swap manifolds or instal headers is pull the motor so while its out, why not... but thats just me. yeah i know its not a huge gain, but to me every little bit counts and helps
 
the kid said:
fair enough. i know that if i ever have to take my motor out its not going back in unless there is new ceramic coated headers on it. the only way you can swap manifolds or instal headers is pull the motor so while its out, why not... but thats just me. yeah i know its not a huge gain, but to me every little bit counts and helps
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I could be wrong but I'm pretty sure that if you pull the headers you should be able to wiggle the crossover pipe out of the bottom passenger side of the vehicle. If you need extra room you can always un-bolt the engine mounts from the vehicle then either take off the whole motor mount bracket or just the rubber mount and lower the engine to make some extra room to wiggle the crossover pipe out. But I'm pretty sure that with just removing the cast headers and taking off the exhaust hangar near the cat you'll have room to wiggle the crossover pipe out of there.
 
from my understanding to completely remove the manifolds to say like instal headers or a new manifold you have to at least partially pull the motor. you can separate the manifolds enough to replace gaskets and such with out having to pull the motor but the motor needs to be free and most of the way out like on a picker to remove them to swap them

-thats coming from my father inlaw who has been working on these sense they rolled off the ships in 95/96 here in the states...
 
the kid said:
from my understanding to completely remove the manifolds to say like instal headers or a new manifold you have to at least partially pull the motor. you can separate the manifolds enough to replace gaskets and such with out having to pull the motor but the motor needs to be free and most of the way out like on a picker to remove them to swap them

-thats coming from my father inlaw who has been working on these sense they rolled off the ships in 95/96 here in the states...
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Interesting. I don't see myself getting headers anytime soon so I don't think I will ever find out by personal experience.
 
KidVermicious said:
I'm really looking forward to seeing this truck in October. Any budget left for lift/tires/armor?
Click to expand...

I'll build some sliders and probably some skid plates before moab but I don't see any lift or tires before the trip. If I happen to come across a good deal on some a/t or mud tires that I can fit without lifting then I'll probably pick them up but I don't want to invest anything crazy in tires till I lift the runner.
 
Congrats on a job well done! :cheers:
I'm glad I could help out and I'm sure you are going to continue loving that supercharged 3.4 for a loooonnnggg time.
 
I kind of talked him out of the headers. Too little gain for the money spent.

Either way, I am stealing that engine and throwing it in the Minnow. That thing has enough power to throw my fat ass in to the back of my seat.
 
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