I recently bought a 93 4runner. The same day(!) as I was driving, I heard a grinding noise followed by a clunking sound. This happens repeatedly after extended periods of driving. I think I also hear a relay clicking under the dash right before it happens. As of right now, I'm scared to drive it, and I can't seem to find any info on what it might be.
93, grinding and clunking sound
- Thread starter thePMG
- Start date
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sorry about that, i just felt likebeing a wiseass. I would perform a full tune up, and change all the fluids. Depending on where the noise comes from could determine where it is. I had a similar noise, but it was the rear dif letting me know that it was low on oil. Check for leaking fluids from the front of the engine(timing case cover), the rear dif(which would spray gear oil all over the undercariage, which would mean a bad pinion seal) and the tranny. There could also be water in the gas, as this would cause knocking and lagging. Checking everything would be your best bet.
Actually, I think I figured it out. I believe that I have a vacuum leak or an electrical issue causing the sleeve on the ADD system in the front axle to work its way over to the locked position. If I stop, shift to 4 wheel drive, then back to 2, the sound stops, for awhile anyways. I'm going to go ahead and change out the oil in both diffs and the transfer case, is there a certain weight I should use? I'm still trying to track down an owners manual.
mikes4runner
New member
thePMG said:
Transfer case /differential use multipurpose gear oil API GL-4 or 5
Viscosity 75W-90
need to know how much let me know.
Mike
That would be great, and if you know of anywhere I could find out as much info as I can about the 93 model would be cool too.
On a side note, after driving around in H4 for about 40 miles, the grinding and clunking sound seems to have stopped. I even took it to the dealership, and they couldn't find anything wrong.
mikes4runner
New member
thePMG said:
transfer case:
4WD/manual or 22RE auto
1.0 QT
V6 auto
0.7 QT
differeential
front
A.D.D 1.7QT
except A.D.D. 1.4
rear
2WD
1.6QT
4WD
1.9QT
got all of this from the owners manual/should be in any Haynes or chiltion repair manual too.
Mike
I think I have the same problem with my 94 4runner. I don't have the clunking sound but after driving about 2 minutes at normal speeds (in 2wd), I hear a grinding sound coming from front drivers side wheel well area. I have replaced the brake caliper, brake pads, checked the bearings, replaced the front A.D.D. fluid, made a modification to the A.D.D. so it wouldn't rely on vacuum flow and electronics and checked the CV joint. The sound still happens when I'm in 2wd. In 4WD, the sound stops. I've had the truck running up on jack stands and while under the vehicle I found no parts that were hotter than normal, no grinded parts and all moving parts moved smooth as normal.
Does anyone know what could be causing this?
P.S. - For those wondering what the A.D.D. mod was its explained in this article: http://www.outdoorwire.com/4x4/toyota/tech/add
Does anyone know what could be causing this?
P.S. - For those wondering what the A.D.D. mod was its explained in this article: http://www.outdoorwire.com/4x4/toyota/tech/add
jhinderliter
New member
never encountered this prob before...maybee a bad CV joint? they shouldnt turn at all when locked in but it could be they free wheeel a bit in 2wd and the 4wd puts a load on the joint when engaged and quited it up? just a guess...
peace
peace
Well I managed to get the vehicle on jack stands and recreated the sound while in 4wd, its the only I could get the front wheels to spin fast enough. Unfortunately I couldn't be under the truck to get a good listen and hold the accelerator simultaneously. Still can't pin point exactly, but this does eliminate road noise a possibility. Maybe something is loose that won't create noise when under the load of vehicle weight or 4wd power. But what could it be?
wes mantooth
New member
you need to narrow down youre description of what is happening
is it doing it while you drive straight or turning?
while it is int 2wd or 4wd?
what gear is the transmission in?
speed you are going?
how hot is the temp gauge?
there are 8000 things that can clunk or grind on a car, you have to narrow it down, do a little bit of thinking on it before asking for help on the in-tard-net
is it doing it while you drive straight or turning?
while it is int 2wd or 4wd?
what gear is the transmission in?
speed you are going?
how hot is the temp gauge?
there are 8000 things that can clunk or grind on a car, you have to narrow it down, do a little bit of thinking on it before asking for help on the in-tard-net
Okay, I'll narrow the drivers side wheel grinding noise down to this:
The noise occurs when:
-driving straight in 2wd (will continue while turning as well)
-noise occurs no matter what gear or speed (5speed manual)
-the temp gauge is always in the normal range (middle)
-noise occurs after about 2 minutes of 2wd driving (gradually comes to a stop after switching to 4wd)
-noise will reoccur if I switch back to 2wd
-The noise does not / has not occurred in reverse while in 2wd
-The wheel itself is not warm/hot when I get out of the car after hearing the grinding
-New brake caliper and pads
-Car will roll in 2wd/4wd without parking brake applied
-Manually turning the wheel while on jacks will produce no noise
-bearing are not loose (has no extra play in wheel)
-noise is not cv related
-front differential fluid has been recently changed to proper level
-old front differential fluid had so metal shaving, etc. in it
-serpentine belts are not squealing
-power steering works properly without leaking
-rotor is not scored
-noise is not affected by hitting bumps / potholes in road
-tires are all inflated evenly to proper psi
-there are no visibly grinded moving parts (all normal rust is intact)
-A.D.D. has been modified as described in earlier post to avoid any vacuum/electronical failure (it worked as normal before mod and 4wd engages/disengages as normal after mod)
I hope this narrows it down a little better, Thanks in advance for any pointers that anyone can give.
1994 4runner sr5 v6 4wd 5spd manual 194000k miles
marco
The noise occurs when:
-driving straight in 2wd (will continue while turning as well)
-noise occurs no matter what gear or speed (5speed manual)
-the temp gauge is always in the normal range (middle)
-noise occurs after about 2 minutes of 2wd driving (gradually comes to a stop after switching to 4wd)
-noise will reoccur if I switch back to 2wd
-The noise does not / has not occurred in reverse while in 2wd
-The wheel itself is not warm/hot when I get out of the car after hearing the grinding
-New brake caliper and pads
-Car will roll in 2wd/4wd without parking brake applied
-Manually turning the wheel while on jacks will produce no noise
-bearing are not loose (has no extra play in wheel)
-noise is not cv related
-front differential fluid has been recently changed to proper level
-old front differential fluid had so metal shaving, etc. in it
-serpentine belts are not squealing
-power steering works properly without leaking
-rotor is not scored
-noise is not affected by hitting bumps / potholes in road
-tires are all inflated evenly to proper psi
-there are no visibly grinded moving parts (all normal rust is intact)
-A.D.D. has been modified as described in earlier post to avoid any vacuum/electronical failure (it worked as normal before mod and 4wd engages/disengages as normal after mod)
I hope this narrows it down a little better, Thanks in advance for any pointers that anyone can give.
1994 4runner sr5 v6 4wd 5spd manual 194000k miles
marco
jhinderliter
New member
lets try to simplfy this...the only components that CAN 'grind and clunk' (havent heard the noise myself) are the brakes , wheel bearings and the CV joints...you can ponder on this till the cows come home or you can tear it apart and fix it... youve elimnated the brakes (be sure to check the shield on the back of the rotor and make sure its not rubbing)the bearings might not have any play in them but they still could have a rought spot on them that only shows itself under certain conditions.... In my expierience they are a bitch to diagnose untill they completely fail...at that point you are buying spindles and hubs and the price goes way up...if youve gone as far as the calipers you can tear it the rest of the way down...get the bearings in your hand and inspect them... make sure youve ordered a new seal for the back of the hub as well...while you have the hub off pull the axle and move the cv joint around see if you can feel it bind up at any point...if you need any tips on toyota frontendology feel free to ask..
good luck
good luck
Today I checked the CV joint and replaced the inner boot on the drivers side, all movement was free and no signs of damage. I wanted to get to the bearings but have no clue as to how to get them out. I have a 1994 4wd with A.D.D., my Haynes manual doesn't even seem to cover bearing removal for this only freewheeling, manual and automatic hubs. Is there a tutorial on how to swap out the bearings some where or can someone just tell me how to this is done on this vehicle? The wheel has no bearing related play and I can not pull or push the wheel cylinder at all. Thanks in advance.
marco
marco
Final update (hopefully),
I found out how to remove my bearing today by following directions at http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/front_end/
Now even though my wheel should no play when rocking it back and forth with my hands at the 6 & 12 o'clock positions there was still heat marks on the inside of the inner bearing (part that touches the spindle). Removes the bearing and seal, repacked new ones and replaced. The sound went away upon test driving it. In my case I didn't have a 54mm socket so I backed the spindle nuts off with a screwdriver and hammer. Apparently this was done before be a previous owner/mechanic as the nuts already had signs of being chiseled. Well the last wrench that had a go at it obviously didn't tighten the assembly enough and that was enough to cause binding in the bearings.
Well based on my symptoms I know realize that were rotating against a stationary spindle (more like binding) which created the noise in 2wd. When in 4wd the spindle and the wheel turned together relieving the bearing of additional friction which alleviated the noise.
I hope this helps anyone that my be scratching their heads over that noise from their front end now and in the future.
marco
I found out how to remove my bearing today by following directions at http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/front_end/
Now even though my wheel should no play when rocking it back and forth with my hands at the 6 & 12 o'clock positions there was still heat marks on the inside of the inner bearing (part that touches the spindle). Removes the bearing and seal, repacked new ones and replaced. The sound went away upon test driving it. In my case I didn't have a 54mm socket so I backed the spindle nuts off with a screwdriver and hammer. Apparently this was done before be a previous owner/mechanic as the nuts already had signs of being chiseled. Well the last wrench that had a go at it obviously didn't tighten the assembly enough and that was enough to cause binding in the bearings.
Well based on my symptoms I know realize that were rotating against a stationary spindle (more like binding) which created the noise in 2wd. When in 4wd the spindle and the wheel turned together relieving the bearing of additional friction which alleviated the noise.
I hope this helps anyone that my be scratching their heads over that noise from their front end now and in the future.
marco
