97 Limited Puppy Hauler Build Thread

[19963.4lsr5]

So last night I decided to tackle the rear brakes not auto adjusting with the ebrake.

I spun the adjuster star wheels until the shoes just touched the drums and then set the bellcrank gap correctly for the ebrake. Hopefully that will get them working. I never set the gap. Which I'm guessing needs to be present for the arm to properly spin the auto adjusters


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[19963.4lsr5]

As an update to the rear brake adjustment. They are still firm with little pedal travel. I don't drive it much and when I do she asks why I have to hit the brakes so hard. (It's got the TBU big brakes)

I also put Cooper ATP tires on it. All I can say is they are super quiet and ride nice as Hell.. Love them. Even had 15" of snow......the AT3's I had Pryor were nice. But a better ride with these ATP's. Also did another wheel alignment. And toe was off -.16 on both. Everything else spot on. (I was worried the lower control arm bushings were compressing and the caster or camber would have changed) also tightened the steering rack bushing. It's the older roller type. Will see if it holds up.


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[19963.4lsr5]

Installed Blazer C8010 flood lights in the factory fog location and no lights.

This is what the relay looked liked.

I am also not happy that the relay is normally energized to prevent the fog lights from coming on. It's a constant battery draw.


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[19963.4lsr5]

Replaced the Rad with a Spectra from AutoZone today. The fit was perfect. I removed the lower part of the fan shroud and pulled the rad and fan shroud together. New Rad installed as easily.

Need to make sure I have the spring clamps necessary and I'll run the the trans cooler through the new Rad.

I also topped off the transfer case fluid. The output shaft seals leak a little. It was down 3/4" from last summer.


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[19963.4lsr5]

It's official. It's head gaskets time. The elusive coolant disappearing had become not elusive anymore.

The tester says it's bad. Yellow is indication of combustion gasses present it rad.


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[19963.4lsr5]

That dark brown was not there when I put the new rad in it.

I hate to think it be faster pulling the engine to do the head gaskets with the engine on a stand rather than bending over the fenders....this would be my 3rd engine pull.


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[19963.4lsr5]

Day 1 of starting the process.

Sadly I start a 7 day work stretch working 6pm to 6am until Friday morning. So I must plug away at it each day before work. Plus it's fricken hot out.

Belt has 150k miles on it.


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[19963.4lsr5]

Day two.

All that's left to do is onbolt the exhaust manifolds and unbolt the heads.

The area under the intake where the knock sensors are was full of antifreeze. About 1qt.

Thank god that area isn't connected to the oil pan like pushrod engines. The bearings would have spun.

That fuel line was a royal pain in the arse. I had to fight it the entire way unthreading it from the flex hose going to the fuel rail.

If I wanted to pull the engine there ain't much left.


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[19963.4lsr5]

Ordered this kit from Yota for the head job. I think it may come with valve stem seals too.

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[19963.4lsr5]

Has anyone felt the need to paint this area under the intake? I've had a few freeze out plugs rust through in my time.


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[T4R2014]

I would. These things are starting to get up there in age. I feel like in a few more years you'll hear more about freeze plug issues.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

I may just replace the freeze out plugs. On the shelf yet......


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[19963.4lsr5]

I'm posting this again because somehow my post got removed even though someone answered my post about painting the area under the intake.


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[19963.4lsr5]

Received the Yota head replacement kit today. It's basically this kit with extras.

It includes the valve stem seals, injector o-rings, complete valve cover gasket set, headbolts, knock sensor harness, and a bunch of stuff I'll never use.

The part number in the picture napa sells for over 500 dollars. I paid around 380 shipped with all the extras

YotaShop KIT-1020 is what I bought.

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[19963.4lsr5]

Heads are back.

The kit didn't have the Valve Cover Grommets or the two cam buttons. So ordered them and a T-Stat from the dealer.

The head gasket surface on the block is prepped. Tomorrow I'll install the heads and see how far I get before I decide to quit. I wanted to finish it tomorrow. May be I will.

These are the plugs I pulled out of the heads.


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[19963.4lsr5]

Dots to the front after the 25ftlbs torque sequence.

Dots to the back after the two 90 degree torque sequences. It ends up being about 85-90 ftlbs.

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[19963.4lsr5]

Heads are on. Holy shit is the final 90 degree torque sequence a mother F****r bent over the hood. Glad once again I bought the extra long torque wrench. All though a simple breaker bar would have done the last two steps.

Torque on headbolts is over 100ftlbs.


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[19963.4lsr5]

I do not like the fact that I installed the crank seal with my thumbs. Ordered a crank seal from the dealer. But remember being being down this path with the 96. Ended up getting a napa seal that fit tight.


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[19963.4lsr5]

So cams are in. I'll check valve clearance tomorrow. And soldier on.


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[beefsix]

You’re an inspiration bubba

Keep on keepin on man, here’s an e-beer for you


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