Hello all - 1st time member - 1st time T4R owner. Purchased a 97 T4R, 5 speed, 200K+ mile. Runs great - love this thing. But have an issue and need some experienced advise. Very, very hard to shift into gear (any temp), so much that I think the shifter will break. Have adjusted clutch pedal rod (a dozen times) - replaced slave cyl. today, no help. Clutch does not slip. Weird thing is that it shifts great with engine NOT running. If you have experienced same and found fix can you let me in on it. Thanks
97 T4R 5 speed - new member Hlep needed
- Thread starter Smitty3
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TheDurk
Elite Member
I'm a fan of the Redline. You want a GL4 to protect your yellow metal synchros (GL5 has sulfur additives that don't play well with synchros) and that is pretty much the only synthetic GL4 out there that I could find. It works great in all temps. I did my clutch, slave and shift seats two years ago and it shifts better than new at 175k. Valvoline claims their GL5 is safe for synchros, but I am not convinced. Save the cheap stuff for the diffs and T/C.
Some people with your symptoms have found the issue to be in the clutch pedal--sloppy bushings or loose mount to the firewall, not allowing clutch to disengage completely. I'd look there carefully. Search for details.
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UnderFire
New member
Whatever's cheapest works in my opinion, we just picked up a 5 gallon bucket of 76 brand gear oil for 75ish$, filled up both diffs, the Tcase and the trans and still had extra. Redline would've been 150$ plus and had none left afterwards.
UnderFire
New member
Good point, we've also seen 2 3rd gen pickups that had cracked/broken firewalls that were flexing and causing the same issue, haven't seen it on a Tacoma or 3rd gen 4Runner, but it is something to look for.
hard to shift
Replaced the Shifter seat with a Marlin Crawler. Easy done - the one I removed looked good - like it had been replaced before. Looked like it may have been Toyota replacement. Changed the tranny lube to Red Line GL4 Synthetic. No differance in the shifting problem. But Tranny fluid needed changed anyway. So far to this point we have replaced Slave Cyl. Bleed lines), adujusted clutch pedal arm (X 12), checked for broken or cracked brackets. Master Cyl. appears to be new (or newer). So hard to shift I though I wouild bend the shifter trying to get in or out of gear. Feels as if bumping against a solid wall.
Easy to shift with engine off. With engine running the engine begins to pull down slightly when attempting to shift into gear but not able to put in gear. (any gear).
Now thinking clutch replacement. It has never felt like the clutch is slipping (once in gear), but wondering if the clutch plate is bad. ??? I can get a new Clutch Pak where I work - made by LUK. Likely going to pay someone to install.
Do you all think it is worth it ($) to see if this is the problem with the almost impossible to shift issue??? Running out of options.
Thing is - we purchased this 97 4runner more than 200 miles away near Columbus Ohio. Drove it back with no major issues. Shifing was "sticky" but driving it home this far made us feel pretty good about the general condition. Since then, the shifting has become continually worse to the point of immpossible to shift.
Replaced the Shifter seat with a Marlin Crawler. Easy done - the one I removed looked good - like it had been replaced before. Looked like it may have been Toyota replacement. Changed the tranny lube to Red Line GL4 Synthetic. No differance in the shifting problem. But Tranny fluid needed changed anyway. So far to this point we have replaced Slave Cyl. Bleed lines), adujusted clutch pedal arm (X 12), checked for broken or cracked brackets. Master Cyl. appears to be new (or newer). So hard to shift I though I wouild bend the shifter trying to get in or out of gear. Feels as if bumping against a solid wall.
Easy to shift with engine off. With engine running the engine begins to pull down slightly when attempting to shift into gear but not able to put in gear. (any gear).
Now thinking clutch replacement. It has never felt like the clutch is slipping (once in gear), but wondering if the clutch plate is bad. ??? I can get a new Clutch Pak where I work - made by LUK. Likely going to pay someone to install.
Do you all think it is worth it ($) to see if this is the problem with the almost impossible to shift issue??? Running out of options.
Thing is - we purchased this 97 4runner more than 200 miles away near Columbus Ohio. Drove it back with no major issues. Shifing was "sticky" but driving it home this far made us feel pretty good about the general condition. Since then, the shifting has become continually worse to the point of immpossible to shift.
What is the state of the transmission tower? Specifically, its two steel pins that serve as the shifter's fulcrum?
Earlier this year I posted this:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...-clutch-hydraulic-problems-2.html#post1915180
Does your clutch engage/disengage very close to the floor despite all attempts - as explained in the FSM and elsewhere on this forum - to adjust it to within factory specs? It's possible for a clutch to disengage enough so the vehicle won't move, yet still have enough drag to make shifting difficult.
Earlier this year I posted this:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...-clutch-hydraulic-problems-2.html#post1915180
Does your clutch engage/disengage very close to the floor despite all attempts - as explained in the FSM and elsewhere on this forum - to adjust it to within factory specs? It's possible for a clutch to disengage enough so the vehicle won't move, yet still have enough drag to make shifting difficult.
The tranmisson tower seemed ok when I replaced the shifter seal. Although I still have the plate off and will double check. Clutch pedal rod is adjusted to approx specs. Has about 2 inch of no tention when depressed and then can feel preasure as it is depressed further.
Thinking the issue is deeper, clutch, plate or something in that area. Don't want to spend the money if not needed. Any other ideas to check or test befor I go the clutch route?
Thinking the issue is deeper, clutch, plate or something in that area. Don't want to spend the money if not needed. Any other ideas to check or test befor I go the clutch route?
St Runner
Member
Sounds like your clutch is not disengaging completely Check your pedal height, should be 6.5 to 7 inches off the floor Adjust with the top bolt then readjust your clutch rod. If that does not help it probably is in the clutch itself. Not that expensive if you do it yourself Read up on it, buy/ borrow the tools you need and go for it
Thanks for the replies. I was leaning to the same as far as the clutch not disengaging completely. Mostly because when attempting to shift into gear the engine immediately begins to pull down slightly - and never able to get into gear. Shifts great with engine not running. I am thinking preasure plate since the clutch never seemed to slip. Or some issue with the shifing arms or springs. Either way sounds like a clutch replacement may be in order.
I have a Tech about a mile from me - (a shout out to Marino's) - they are very good. Think I will stop by and talk to them on Monday. Thank you all for the tips and advice. I'll post an update when I have news.
I have a Tech about a mile from me - (a shout out to Marino's) - they are very good. Think I will stop by and talk to them on Monday. Thank you all for the tips and advice. I'll post an update when I have news.
