4Running Daily
New member
I like the wheels!
98 SR5 - The "Dirt Duster" build
- Thread starter rickashay
- Start date
quicksilvr
New member
No no....I LOVE the wheels. And the tires. Perfect setup. Damnit, now I'm torn between 7069's and KMC Enduro's. :lol:
4Running Daily
New member
I was a big fan of the 8069's, the 7069's will grow on me.
rickashay
New member
Thanks!!
Cheers! I hear good things about the MTZ's so I'm very interested to pit them against the KM2's this weekend when I hit the trails. It will be muddy and snowy so I'm interested to see if the MTZ's are as good as the KM2's in the mud and how much better they are in the snow.... I'll report back!
You can't go wrong with the Enduro's, I really like them. However, I think the matte black 7069 and your thundercloud 4Runner would be sex on wheels.
Monkeyelvis
New member
Hey Rick,
Your rig is looking awesome. I have really been on the fence with the 7069's, and knowing that these fit the Tundra brakes I think my mind is made up. Are yours the model # 7069-6883 with the -12mm offset?
Your rig is looking awesome. I have really been on the fence with the 7069's, and knowing that these fit the Tundra brakes I think my mind is made up. Are yours the model # 7069-6883 with the -12mm offset?
rickashay
New member
My 7069's have 4" BS and -12 offset, yes. Keep in mind though that I have the Tundra 199's NOT the 231's. I think I have about 1/8" of clearance on the brakes but Im not sure where the difference in size is between the 231's and 199's. I was told that the 7069 that I ordered is the exact wheel as the 8069 (the 16x8, 4" BS, -12mm version) but with a different finish. If that's the case, look at BFAD's thread as he runs the glossy 8069's and Tundra 231's.
quicksilvr
New member
Where did you purchase the wheels from? I actually can't find the correct spec of that wheel at any online retailers right now....
fightman80
New member
Looking good man! Always fun to read your updates dude! :guitar3:
rickashay
New member
4WheelParts. It's weird though, when I called and the salesman suggested the 7069's I could not find them either in the bolt pattern and size I wanted to order but he assured me they existed. He gave me the part number and I found them on the site somehow?? Here is the link I bookmarked to them: Pro Comp Alloy Wheels Part 7069-6883 - Series 7069 - Flat Black Machined
Thanks Rob! I need to head over to your thread soon and check for updates, it's been a while!
quicksilvr
New member
Huh. You'd think they'd make it a little easier to find them. Thanks for the link.
I'm probably 6 months away from buying wheels and tires, but right now I still plan on getting the Enduro's. Can't say the 7069's didn't tempt me....or that I won't still change my mind.
I'm probably 6 months away from buying wheels and tires, but right now I still plan on getting the Enduro's. Can't say the 7069's didn't tempt me....or that I won't still change my mind.
rickashay
New member
Thanks man! Appreciate it a lot since your rig is pretty much a Legend around here - you've got some style. haha Come wheeling with me and Vic already!
Some pics of my trail run this past weekend:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/116034-rickashays-wheeling-pics-thread.html#post1075043
rickashay
New member
I guess I should update my Rig's status to "wounded." Doesn't look like I'll be wheeling for a while until I get all of my spring bugs out.
- New inner TRE's needed - I could probably get the ones in there warrantied but I'm thinking of saving the hassle and ordering OEM Tacoma parts and re-doing the whole front end. Including the LBJ's that I just replaced. I installed all new inner and outer TRE's and LBJ's last summer (July???) with "made in Japan" 555 brand parts. Both LBJ's were warrantied last week because one had excessive play and the other would not hold grease cause of a bad boot or seal. ***Should of went OEM to begin with.*** Lesson learned. Now if anyone knows a thread with all the PN's for the beefed up Tacoma parts, please shoot me a link. (I'll find it in the search I'm sure if someone doesn't have it handy - I'm being lazy!) After the new parts come in, I'm going to get my belly pan on, and adjust my front coilovers up to the 3rd notch before getting it aligned.
- I took a stump in the front fender. Some stupid driver error mostly. Protruding stump punched my front fender behind the corner light (causing dent) and dragged into the wheel well where it ripped out my inner fender liner, got dragged by the tire, and creased my fender near the door. ****. I might have to wait to fix this one as the mechanical problems are more of an immediate concern for me.
- My tires are rubbing like a MOFO on the rear flaps, actually causing the factory bumper to flex into the body very badly when I'm really stuffed in the rear wells. My CBI should fix that problem.... if it fits on the frame rails. haha
- My axle is badly contacting my gas tank skid. I am going to remove the tank, pound or clearance the point of contact, then remove rust, and re-paint.
- My E-locker is no longer functioning. The light simply flashes and I can't hear the actuator moving at all. I'll probably be removing the motor/actuator and cleaning it thoroughly. Any inputs on this, please post up!
- I need to finish my LS460 projector retrofit. I miss having good headlights!
Wow, that list seems large, I think I'm going to get started today.
- New inner TRE's needed - I could probably get the ones in there warrantied but I'm thinking of saving the hassle and ordering OEM Tacoma parts and re-doing the whole front end. Including the LBJ's that I just replaced. I installed all new inner and outer TRE's and LBJ's last summer (July???) with "made in Japan" 555 brand parts. Both LBJ's were warrantied last week because one had excessive play and the other would not hold grease cause of a bad boot or seal. ***Should of went OEM to begin with.*** Lesson learned. Now if anyone knows a thread with all the PN's for the beefed up Tacoma parts, please shoot me a link. (I'll find it in the search I'm sure if someone doesn't have it handy - I'm being lazy!) After the new parts come in, I'm going to get my belly pan on, and adjust my front coilovers up to the 3rd notch before getting it aligned.
- I took a stump in the front fender. Some stupid driver error mostly. Protruding stump punched my front fender behind the corner light (causing dent) and dragged into the wheel well where it ripped out my inner fender liner, got dragged by the tire, and creased my fender near the door. ****. I might have to wait to fix this one as the mechanical problems are more of an immediate concern for me.
- My tires are rubbing like a MOFO on the rear flaps, actually causing the factory bumper to flex into the body very badly when I'm really stuffed in the rear wells. My CBI should fix that problem.... if it fits on the frame rails. haha
- My axle is badly contacting my gas tank skid. I am going to remove the tank, pound or clearance the point of contact, then remove rust, and re-paint.
- My E-locker is no longer functioning. The light simply flashes and I can't hear the actuator moving at all. I'll probably be removing the motor/actuator and cleaning it thoroughly. Any inputs on this, please post up!
- I need to finish my LS460 projector retrofit. I miss having good headlights!
Wow, that list seems large, I think I'm going to get started today.
4-Ripcord
New member
Wow, you have your work cut out for you!
Here is a thread on tacoma LBJ and TRE: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/92427-ball-joints.html
What is this about a stump? That sounds really bad. Took out the fender, wheel well and door? Dang.
On the gas tank thing, do you have a panhard drop bracket or extended bar or anything like that? Ive heard that the drop bracket fixes that problem and the extended bars make it worse. Tight geometry in that area, little stuff like that can perform very differently.
Here is a thread on tacoma LBJ and TRE: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/92427-ball-joints.html
What is this about a stump? That sounds really bad. Took out the fender, wheel well and door? Dang.
On the gas tank thing, do you have a panhard drop bracket or extended bar or anything like that? Ive heard that the drop bracket fixes that problem and the extended bars make it worse. Tight geometry in that area, little stuff like that can perform very differently.
rickashay
New member
Thanks for the link! I was actually just over on your thread watching your vid. Super cool.
I have the panhard drop.... and it still rubs. My gas tank skid is pretty mangled though, and maybe just needs to be re-bent to more of it's original shape.
My fender isn't too bad. I can live with it for now. The door is fine just scratched up pretty good. The only real dent remaining is the baseball sized one where the stump first made contact.
BigFishAllDay
New member
Regarding your E-Locker, I would bypass the ECU and test the motor/actuator first before removing it from the diff. If you can apply power directly to the motor and get it to work, then you can narrow the problem down to the E-locker ECU. If you give it direct power and it still doesn't work, you know the problem is the motor/actuator itself.
There should be a harness that connects the E-locker to the chassis. One end plugs into the E-locker motor, the other plugs into the next section of the harness on the chassis roughly 2 feet up the line. I'd disconnect the plug that connects that short ~2 foot section on the Chassis side, and position it so you have access to the terminals in the plug.
Make yourself three 3-foot sections of wire. On the first, attach female blade connectors on both ends. On the next two attach a female blade connector on one end, and strip back a half inch of sheathing on the other end.
To LOCK the diff manually:
1. using the wire w/two female blade connectors, create a jumper between the plug terminals corresponding to the GREEN wire and the GREEN/BLACK wire.
2. Using one of the other two wires, attach the female blade connector to the terminal on the plug that corresponds to the GREEN/RED wire
3. Using the last wire, attach the female blade connector to the terminal on the plug that corresponds to the WHITE/BLACK wire. Since there are two, in the diagram below, I am referring to the one labled #7. If you can't tell which of the two WHITE/BLACK wires corresponds to #7 (which may be tough because the 4Runner plug is rectangular, not round) just try them both. One is a ground for the E-locker motor, the other is a ground for the locked position switch.
4. Once you've made connections 1-3 above, connect the wire off the terminal corresponding to the BLACK/WHITE wire to 12V battery (-), then connect the wire off the terminal corresponding to the GREEN/RED wire to to 12V battery (+).
If the motor is working properly you should hear it lock the diff.
To UNLOCK the diff manually:
1. using the wire w/two female blade connectors, create a jumper between the plug terminals corresponding to the GREEN/RED wire and the GREEN/YELLOW wire.
2. Using one of the other two wires, attach the female blade connector to the terminal on the plug that corresponds to the GREEN wire
3. Using the last wire, attach the female blade connector to the terminal on the plug that corresponds to the WHITE/BLACK wire. (See addt'l steps above in step 3 to LOCK)
4. Once you've made connections 1-3 above, connect the wire off the terminal corresponding to the BLACK/WHITE wire to 12V battery (-), then connect the wire off the terminal corresponding to the GREEN wire to to 12V battery (+).
If the motor is working properly you should hear it unlock the diff.
(NOTE: I might have mixed up which procedure is lock vs. unlock above. Since your diff is currently unlocked, try the LOCK prodedure first. If it does nothing, I may have mixed them up, so try the UNLOCK prodedure. If neither procedure gives you a result, your E-locker motor is dead. The limit switches will prevent you from damaging anything if for instance you run the UNLOCK procedure on a diff that is already unlocked, or vice versa)
If you test it this way and the motor works as it should, then the problem lies with your ECU or chassis wiring.
There's lots of info on the web RE rebuilding the E-locker motor... Here are a few I've found:
gear install
Toyota Tacoma Elocker Actuator Repair
UltimateYota.com - E Locker motor repair
Rewind your E Locker Electric Motor!
There should be a harness that connects the E-locker to the chassis. One end plugs into the E-locker motor, the other plugs into the next section of the harness on the chassis roughly 2 feet up the line. I'd disconnect the plug that connects that short ~2 foot section on the Chassis side, and position it so you have access to the terminals in the plug.
Make yourself three 3-foot sections of wire. On the first, attach female blade connectors on both ends. On the next two attach a female blade connector on one end, and strip back a half inch of sheathing on the other end.
To LOCK the diff manually:
1. using the wire w/two female blade connectors, create a jumper between the plug terminals corresponding to the GREEN wire and the GREEN/BLACK wire.
2. Using one of the other two wires, attach the female blade connector to the terminal on the plug that corresponds to the GREEN/RED wire
3. Using the last wire, attach the female blade connector to the terminal on the plug that corresponds to the WHITE/BLACK wire. Since there are two, in the diagram below, I am referring to the one labled #7. If you can't tell which of the two WHITE/BLACK wires corresponds to #7 (which may be tough because the 4Runner plug is rectangular, not round) just try them both. One is a ground for the E-locker motor, the other is a ground for the locked position switch.
4. Once you've made connections 1-3 above, connect the wire off the terminal corresponding to the BLACK/WHITE wire to 12V battery (-), then connect the wire off the terminal corresponding to the GREEN/RED wire to to 12V battery (+).
If the motor is working properly you should hear it lock the diff.
To UNLOCK the diff manually:
1. using the wire w/two female blade connectors, create a jumper between the plug terminals corresponding to the GREEN/RED wire and the GREEN/YELLOW wire.
2. Using one of the other two wires, attach the female blade connector to the terminal on the plug that corresponds to the GREEN wire
3. Using the last wire, attach the female blade connector to the terminal on the plug that corresponds to the WHITE/BLACK wire. (See addt'l steps above in step 3 to LOCK)
4. Once you've made connections 1-3 above, connect the wire off the terminal corresponding to the BLACK/WHITE wire to 12V battery (-), then connect the wire off the terminal corresponding to the GREEN wire to to 12V battery (+).
If the motor is working properly you should hear it unlock the diff.
(NOTE: I might have mixed up which procedure is lock vs. unlock above. Since your diff is currently unlocked, try the LOCK prodedure first. If it does nothing, I may have mixed them up, so try the UNLOCK prodedure. If neither procedure gives you a result, your E-locker motor is dead. The limit switches will prevent you from damaging anything if for instance you run the UNLOCK procedure on a diff that is already unlocked, or vice versa)
If you test it this way and the motor works as it should, then the problem lies with your ECU or chassis wiring.
There's lots of info on the web RE rebuilding the E-locker motor... Here are a few I've found:
gear install
Toyota Tacoma Elocker Actuator Repair
UltimateYota.com - E Locker motor repair
Rewind your E Locker Electric Motor!
BigFishAllDay
New member
No problem, amigo. I hope the post contained some new info for you and not just a bunch of stuff you already knew. Here's to hoping it's an easy fix.
rickashay
New member
- I got my locker working!! I went out to the garage all prepared to have a long and brutal day trouble shooting this thing with the help of BFAD's links. I had all the pre-cut wires he described and was ready to first test the ECU. I crawled under and removed the body-to-diff portion of the e-locker harness. Upon inspection I noticed that where I had placed a zip-tie to tidy up the wiring under the truck, I had accidentally snipped the GREEN/RED wire when I was trimming the excess off the end of the zip-tie. Soldered the wire back together and sealed the joint up nice and the locker is back to normal. LOL wow, that was easy....
- Ordered a reman'd steering rack from ToyotaSteering. They said that all of their racks were OEM rebuild, so I hope that is true. It also has a 3 year warranty and comes with ITRE. I was on the fence about buying a new OEM one but I figured with the warranty I couldn't really lose. Plus a OEM rack from Toyota in Canada is $950 and I wasn't going to drop that cash on a new rack. With my savings I ordered some new OEM LBJ's to replace my "555" brand ones.
- CBI is "supposed" to ship June 4.
- Trimmed my gas tank skid to hopefully clear the driveshaft. I'll have more info on this when I re-install and test.
- Started designing my front bumper in Sketchup. I have several drafts on paper, but going to get a 3D model generated shortly. I'll post pics when the Sketchup is done.
- Ordered a reman'd steering rack from ToyotaSteering. They said that all of their racks were OEM rebuild, so I hope that is true. It also has a 3 year warranty and comes with ITRE. I was on the fence about buying a new OEM one but I figured with the warranty I couldn't really lose. Plus a OEM rack from Toyota in Canada is $950 and I wasn't going to drop that cash on a new rack. With my savings I ordered some new OEM LBJ's to replace my "555" brand ones.
- CBI is "supposed" to ship June 4.
- Trimmed my gas tank skid to hopefully clear the driveshaft. I'll have more info on this when I re-install and test.
- Started designing my front bumper in Sketchup. I have several drafts on paper, but going to get a 3D model generated shortly. I'll post pics when the Sketchup is done.
Similar threads
