Certainly true, but I had hoped for similar results to some other folks who had the same factory set up. However, at the moment I have a 1.25" difference between the front and the rear and 10mm trim packers are not going to straighten that out. Just need to know what the best option might be, install spacers or maybe different shocks in the rear.
99' talls, in-a-fix need help
- Thread starter kbar
- Start date
Certainly true, but I had hoped for similar results to some other folks who had the same factory set up. However, at the moment I have a 1.25" difference between the front and the rear and 10mm trim packers are not going to straighten that out. Just need to know what the best option might be, install spacers or maybe different shocks in the rear.
drabbits
New member
[MENTION=2541]02SE[/MENTION] has a good point... My T4R never sat that way, even after 11 years on the same coils. There is a lot of added weight with 4x4 up front. Check out Wheeler's, here's a link:
1.5" Rear Coil Spacer Kit
This will even out the stance.
1.5" Rear Coil Spacer Kit
This will even out the stance.
1985taylor1925
Senior Member
Something still doesnt seem right.
This is what A.Wilson was talking about . . .
There shouldnt be any metal between the rubber top plate and the mounting spot on the a arm. The rubber top plate should be pressed against it. I dont know what the metal piece is, but it shouldnt be there.
This is what A.Wilson was talking about . . .
There shouldnt be any metal between the rubber top plate and the mounting spot on the a arm. The rubber top plate should be pressed against it. I dont know what the metal piece is, but it shouldnt be there.
Attachments
I took a closer look at the area you specified with the arrow. Kinda difficult to tell even with a flash light and screwdriver I'm afraid. It look's to be a reflection from the camera flash. I don't see any metal nuts etc, but I do see some raised bumps that would also catch reflection from the flash. I just took the truck on the freeway and it's kinda scary and unpredictable at the moment a sort of Noah's arch if you get my drift. In any event, I think the first step is to put the OEM top plates back on and then remeasure and test drive. I also know that the HD struts are slightly longer than the stock struts and on the box it says 0 - 1" lift. Maybe if I reinstall the OEM front springs with the new Billys it will give me the same lift as the back, although I'm guessing not?
where I'm at
My main goal is to have the front feel responsive, solid and accommodate the 265/75/16 Toyo AT IIs that are sitting on my door step. I feel that the rear is a little easier to tackle once the front is resolved. Any advice would be greatly appreciated, money is not really an issue (I'm already looking for a 4x4 with locker for myself, so no need to point out the obvious
. This car will ultimately be handed down to the wife, but I would like it to have some mild mods, so that I'm not totally bored when I have to drive it.
My main goal is to have the front feel responsive, solid and accommodate the 265/75/16 Toyo AT IIs that are sitting on my door step. I feel that the rear is a little easier to tackle once the front is resolved. Any advice would be greatly appreciated, money is not really an issue (I'm already looking for a 4x4 with locker for myself, so no need to point out the obvious
. This car will ultimately be handed down to the wife, but I would like it to have some mild mods, so that I'm not totally bored when I have to drive it.
lilsid112
New member
I would recommend getting an alignment because it dramatically improved the handling. My caster and toe were all over the place before and now it feels much better going down the road. My front is sitting about an inch higher then the rear as well but I also have a 2.7L. I may just add a spacer in the rear to lvl it out.
I agree, OEM top plates back on, alignment and hopefully 1.5 Daystars in the rear, provided the front feels right. I think I'm also going to put new tie rods and ball joints on as well.
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PitbullRescuer
New member
I'd take those fronts apart again, reflection or not, it appears "something is in there under the strut tower which would indeed cause a nose high effect. The studs for the top plate do appear to be all the way through by looking at the number of threads showing but the top plate itself should be sitting much flatter in the tower.
Also, the front struts have a very slight curve to the lower mount. If they happen to be on backwards, that would also push the front end up slightly.
Can you take a picture of the lower strut mount and also a better picture of the spring perch? Specifically where the spring stops in the perch? I'm betting this is an east fix. And I wouldn't recommend you go with any spacers at all if you want the truck to feel more predictable. You certainly don't need them to clear the tires you'll be running.
Also, the front struts have a very slight curve to the lower mount. If they happen to be on backwards, that would also push the front end up slightly.
Can you take a picture of the lower strut mount and also a better picture of the spring perch? Specifically where the spring stops in the perch? I'm betting this is an east fix. And I wouldn't recommend you go with any spacers at all if you want the truck to feel more predictable. You certainly don't need them to clear the tires you'll be running.
I appreciate the feed back, time to get serious and break out my work camera for some clear shots - more soon.
PitbullRescuer
New member
Hmm, looks okay in those pics. Springs are seated properly. Hard to tell but looks like the shocks are oriented correctly.
Just for the heck of it, jack the back up and out jack stands under the frame tails. Then loosen up the rear control arm bolts. Just a little bit, don't remove the bolts completely. Also remove the rear sway bar links. Then put put it back on the ground. Once it's in the ground, re torque the control arms bolts. And the. Reconnect the sway bar links.
Just for the heck of it, jack the back up and out jack stands under the frame tails. Then loosen up the rear control arm bolts. Just a little bit, don't remove the bolts completely. Also remove the rear sway bar links. Then put put it back on the ground. Once it's in the ground, re torque the control arms bolts. And the. Reconnect the sway bar links.
That's a little out of my comfort zone to be honest, kinda like to try it, but no time right now. However, I will ask the shop to do what you said when they put the new oem strut mounts in this week. Incidentally, what am I looking for after the rear re torque is complete, a raise in the rear?. I'm also wondering if you might have some suggestions of where I could go, if our attempts don't work. Should I just put the old springs back in and call it a day, or maybe find different front springs?
Thxs so much.
drabbits
New member
Did you already buy the oem top plates / strut mounts? cause I'm don't believe it'll make a difference in the case. BUT oem is always the way to go. Now that [MENTION=66735]PitbullRescuer[/MENTION] mentioned loosening the rear control arms, I'm thinking maybe the fronts where not?? The control arms are torqued in pretty tight, which could lead to the suspension not sitting right. But seriously, a 1.5" gain in height is a lot.
If the shop can't resolve this, you can bring by my place and I'll take a look at it.
If the shop can't resolve this, you can bring by my place and I'll take a look at it.
illerbiller
New member
hey i know what the problem is!!!! that model of bilstein shock's coil seat is higher then stock in the front. it happened to me, i had those billys up front, i lifted the rear first with ome 891s because it looked like it sagged, after the vehicle was off the hoist it looked level. when they took the apart the front end to replace the billy shocks with ome shocks, my mechanic said the truck will sit lower in the front with the ome shocks because the coils will sit lower on the ome shocks, he lined them up and it made sense, the coils were higher one the billys
drabbits, that would seriously be amazing if you had time to look at it. I also think that the billy coil seat being higher theory might also be correct. I know that Mccamp82 did the same lift as me, but with Kyb gas-adjust shocks and didn't have the nose high problem, he just needed 10mm trim packers in the rear to add a little rake. If that's the case, I'm hoping to put back on the OEM strut mounts, adjust/retorqued the rear and front suspension, put on the new tires and get an alignment. If there's a significant handling improvement at that point, I can better asses the rear lift need to level out the rig. In addition, I would add a beefier sway bar up front for the added hight along with new tie rods and ball joints, then get another alignment.
thoughts?
drabbits
New member
Thanks and welcome new member! Did a little googling and apparently those damn HD's do sit higher in front. Well man, keep the front as is, install 10mm packers or 1" daystar's in the rear and call it a day. A 2.5" +_ lift on the cheap is pretty freakin great.
PitbullRescuer
New member
I hope that's the answer. But I have to say, I've used those shocks on 3 different
4Runners, lifted and not lifted) and never noticed the front coil perch being higher than the shocks I was replacing. Nor did I ever have a "front high" issue after using them.
4Runners, lifted and not lifted) and never noticed the front coil perch being higher than the shocks I was replacing. Nor did I ever have a "front high" issue after using them.
Took the car in to get it's new kicks put on and balanced, did an alignment as well. The alignment straightened me out in more ways than one, lost a little hight off the front, about .5 of an inch the thing handles beautifully now. I also gained a little height in the back when I re torqued the rear. Once the rear 10mm packers go in, I'll be riding high over 2"! Thanks everyone for helping me out with this, really appreciated. I will post pics of the final set up once the packers are in.
Cheers - k
