A/C Hot on drivers side!

[Jeffro1956]

AC warm on drivers side

I just recharged my AC and viola it corrected the problem with AC blowing warm on drivers side! Thanks for all the good advice!

 

[Jeffro1956]

AC. Warm on drivers side

I was having same problem and thanks to this forum I added refrigerant and it corrected my issue! Thanks all!

 

[BR06run]

Cool on the passenger side and warm on the drivers is a classic symptom of low freon on these 4runners and some other vehicles also.

 

[BigMike18]

Ive searched A/C threads and none seem to have a solution. My A/C blows hot on the drivers side but cold on passenger side. I've tried every combination and still no solution. I looked at the sight glass and all seems well there. Has anyone had this problem and know a solution? Im in Texas and the heat is rising!!!

This is all because of the refrigerant being low, check for leaks in your A/C system, just had the problem 2 weeks ago

 

[GlennKeaton]

I have the same issue with my 4 runner now ,,I had a small amount of freon left in a bottle and added it . It started blowing cold air on both sides but now its blowing warm air on the drivers side again so Im gonna stop and get a can of freon and add some more .I always get the freon that has the pressure gauge on the can that way I don't over charge the system.

 

[Kevin G.]

If you've lost enough freon to need to add at least one full can......you may first need to add a small can of oil charge. It contains 2 ounces of oil, with another 2 ounces of 134A freon.

When my 2008 T4R started losing freon, I'd add about 8 ounces of 134A freon every 6 months. After the second go-round I also added a small oil charge can. After 2 years......no more need to add more freon. Maybe some seals were getting a little dry??????

Wouldn't hurt to try some oil charge.

Hope this helps.

Kevin

 

[karyins]

I had the same problem a few days ago on my 2004 v6, driver side blowing at ambient temp while the central and right sides were still pretty cold. I bought A/C pro with gauge from amazon. The gauge has no temperature dial and the green zone on the gauge is between 25 to 50 PSI. I found in the 2006 4runner repair manual that the Low pressure should be between 20 to 36 PSI when the ambient temp is at 86 to 95 F. Today it's about 83 F outside so I stopped charging when the gauge reads at 35 PSI with only a few squeezes (Later I weighted the can and I only added 2.3 oz).

Now the driver side also blows pretty cool, but not as cold as the other vents. However, the sight glass has a constant whitish flurry stream in it even after the A/C has been on for a while. According to the same repair manual, that indicates the refrigerant is low (unless "If the ambient temperature is higher than usual but cooling is sufficient, bubbles in the sight glass are permissible.")

In this thread AC recharge on page 4 Singtoe mentioned " If the compressor is worn out, it will read normal to upper normal pressure on the low side and low pressure on the High side. Couldn't tell if you are only using one gauge." I wonder if that's my case? But that thread is about 3rd gen so I'm not sure.

Since I only added 2.3 oz I think it's probably safe to add a little more? What's your opinion guys?

 

[BR06run]

You should add it until it is clear. The whitish flurry steam is considered to be foaming. Bubbles would be more clear. Since you have the repair manual follow it exactly as it says.

 

[karyins]

You should add it until it is clear. The whitish flurry steam is considered to be foaming. Bubbles would be more clear. Since you have the repair manual follow it exactly as it says.

Update:

I added 6 oz more till the foaming and bubbles started to disappear. During that entire time the pressure stayed at about 36 PSI. I probably didn't wait long enough between squeezes though (waited 15 seconds between each 5 to 10 seconds squeezes), because when I turned the AC off, it only foams up minimally to none then stays clear.

The next day I let out a little bit (interestingly, this time the gauge stayed at 42 PSI. Not sure why. Ambient temps on both days were at about 80 F). Now it is cold from all vents. When I turn the AC on it foams and bubbles for about 30 seconds then becomes clear, sometimes it will bubbles again but after about 1 minute it will stay clear. When I turn AC off, it stays clear for a few seconds then bubbles for a few seconds then becomes clear. I think it's probably doing well now, Maybe I'll check it again on a hotter day.

So in a nut shell, I added about 7 to 8 Ozs and the AC works great now. Hope it lasts.

 

[karyins]

Update again:

Today it's 90 F outside. When I turn the A/C on, the sight glass stays white flurry stream all the time. When I turn the A/C off, the sight glass becomes clear in a few seconds. Didn't check pressure this time but A/C is working great from all vents. I'll keep it that way for now.

Update:

I added 6 oz more till the foaming and bubbles started to disappear. During that entire time the pressure stayed at about 36 PSI. I probably didn't wait long enough between squeezes though (waited 15 seconds between each 5 to 10 seconds squeezes), because when I turned the AC off, it only foams up minimally to none then stays clear.

The next day I let out a little bit (interestingly, this time the gauge stayed at 42 PSI. Not sure why. Ambient temps on both days were at about 80 F). Now it is cold from all vents. When I turn the AC on it foams and bubbles for about 30 seconds then becomes clear, sometimes it will bubbles again but after about 1 minute it will stay clear. When I turn AC off, it stays clear for a few seconds then bubbles for a few seconds then becomes clear. I think it's probably doing well now, Maybe I'll check it again on a hotter day.

So in a nut shell, I added about 7 to 8 Ozs and the AC works great now. Hope it lasts.

 

[BR06run]

Take a trip around the block. Turn temperature to maximum LO.Turn fan to maximum Hi. Put OUTSIDE air on. If it blows as cold out of the drivers vents as the passengers I would say you are okay.

 

[cjmatlo]

Ive searched A/C threads and none seem to have a solution. My A/C blows hot on the drivers side but cold on passenger side. I've tried every combination and still no solution. I looked at the sight glass and all seems well there. Has anyone had this problem and know a solution? Im in Texas and the heat is rising!!!

Had this same exact issue and after troubleshooting everything it ended up being the EVAP core needed to be replaced... After getting a $1000 dollar quote I decided to take on the job myself. It was not easy and I do not recommend anyone doing it unless they really feel confident in their abilities when it comes to disassembly and reassembly. Take tons of pictures and label bags with all your screws and bolts. For any questions or advice just send me a message.

 

[Captsolo]

I had same issue in my 2005 SR5 with 140,000 miles. Have an AC mechanic (go to a back yard shop that's been doing AC for a few yeas) put the dye in it before you tear into evaporator or anything. In my case the OEM AC compressor was leaking Freon. The compressor was 12 years old.

AC Compressors have 100+ rubber seals. I replaced the old compressor with a new from Denso from Amazon for $196, and I've had cold for 16 months so far.

I let the same mechanic replace the AC condensor from Denso and purge and recharge the system. Don't try this yourself. You need special tools. My costs were $200 for AC Compressor and recharge + $195 for Denso AC new Compressor.

They don't rebuilt AC Compressors. Too many seals to fail.

 

[scw1991]

my 07' Limited has almost 110,000 on the odometer. just noticed it is not quite as cold on the drivers side as on the passengers side. I checked the drivers side blend door and it works as intended going through the full range of motion.

I anticipate the reason for this is the heater core lines enter the left side of the cabin (down by the gas pedal) and snake around to the front into the air box. The heater core produces so much heat that as a result, when the a/c is in operation, the differential temperature is more noticeable on the drivers side.

 

[Kevin G.]

my 07' Limited has almost 110,000 on the odometer. just noticed it is not quite as cold on the drivers side as on the passengers side. I checked the drivers side blend door and it works as intended going through the full range of motion.

I anticipate the reason for this is the heater core lines enter the left side of the cabin (down by the gas pedal) and snake around to the front into the air box. The heater core produces so much heat that as a result, when the a/c is in operation, the differential temperature is more noticeable on the drivers side.

Have you checked the A/C sight glass(behind front grill, passenger side), for a low freon charge condition?

Hope this helps.

Kevin

 

[JerryD]

a buddy of mine sent me the following; not sure where he found it, but it's certainly worth a try - especially since I have spare cans of R134a



I'll report back.

After removing and checking both driver and passenger side actuators, I came here for some ideas. My drivers side vents blew hot and my passenger side blew cold. Tried the freon solution and presto. Its freon. Add some Thanks for the tip. My ride: '04 4Runner Limited 2WD V8

 

[Captsolo]

I thought I would update this for future use. I have a 2005 V6. Hot air on driver side, cold air on passenger side. Dealer took 2 hours to access blend doors and motors, they were fine. They laughed at me for suggesting low Freon...guess what, it was down 1/2 pound. They charged it and everything was fine. Unfortunately for me they claim the evaporator was leaking so they had to do the full 15 hour dash tear down and replace the Evaporator and put it back together.
$2k++

Truck should be back today

Sounds like dealer rip to me. I have a 2005 SR5 with 140,000 miles. After 13 years the AC went out on the driver's side, and an off the road AC shop (not the dealer) did a charge with die, In two weeks it started blowing warm again and mechanic checked for die, located the leak at the compressor, and said bring me a new compressor and we'll install it and recharge it for $200.

I got a Denso AC at Amazon for $199, and my AC has cooled held steady for two years.

Amazon.com: Denso 471-1413 New Compressor with Clutch: Automotive

AC compressors are not rebuilt because they have many seals inside. Just buy new one next time.

Notes: DENSO IS THE OE SUPPLIER FOR THIS VEHICLE, w/NEW COMPRESSOR, OE-SPECIFIED O-RINGS AND OIL INCLUDED

 

[Alsafi92]

Sounds like dealer rip to me. I have a 2005 SR5 with 140,000 miles. After 13 years the AC went out on the driver's side, and an off the road AC shop (not the dealer) did a charge with die, In two weeks it started blowing warm again and mechanic checked for die, located the leak at the compressor, and said bring me a new compressor and we'll install it and recharge it for $200.

I got a Denso AC at Amazon for $199, and my AC has cooled held steady for two years.

Amazon.com: Denso 471-1413 New Compressor with Clutch: Automotive

AC compressors are not rebuilt because they have many seals inside. Just buy new one next time.

Notes: DENSO IS THE OE SUPPLIER FOR THIS VEHICLE, w/NEW COMPRESSOR, OE-SPECIFIED O-RINGS AND OIL INCLUDED

Same issue. car has 250k+ warm on driver and cool on passenger. Should i check the blend air actuator first?

 

[Captsolo]

After removing and checking both driver and passenger side actuators, I came here for some ideas. My drivers side vents blew hot and my passenger side blew cold. Tried the freon solution and presto. Its freon. Add some Thanks for the tip. My ride: '04 4Runner Limited 2WD V8

I'll bet your "fix" doesn't last.

you are going to need a new AC compressor IMO.

Presto!