AAE rack and pinion from rock auto 244$

This is interesting, so I sent these guys an email today asking for any info thay have about the rack, including the design differences between theirs and the OEM rack.

Good, let us know what you find out. Maybe tell them about this thread and invite them over..... (I never even thought of doing that)
 
Good, let us know what you find out. Maybe tell them about this thread and invite them over..... (I never even thought of doing that)

Alright, so I emaled them and they got back. Not a ton of info, but this does interest me.

Hello Mr. Taylor!

Thanks for checking us out on the web- It appears you may be from Wyoming? Just guessing with the area code...

I manage the parts department here at Safari- the Power Steering Rack you need is in stock, and cost $475.00 plus any freight.

The company we use engineers these racks to eliminate all the issues other racks have.



They’ve re-engineered the gears out of stronger material and they have tighter tolerances.

The housing has better material for the rack bushings.

The warranty is 2 years- one year longer than a new Toyota rack.

All the other racks we have used have given us problems, these have not.

One thing to remember- always flush your system before installing a new one, you don’t want any abrasives in the old fluid grinding away at the new rack.

Let me know if you have further questions,

Grant Kinkade

Parts Manager


The Grand Valley’s Independent Toyota Service Center
1005 Pitkin Avenue
Grand Junction, CO 81501
 
Alright, so I emaled them and they got back. Not a ton of info, but this does interest me.

Hello Mr. Taylor!

Thanks for checking us out on the web- It appears you may be from Wyoming? Just guessing with the area code...

I manage the parts department here at Safari- the Power Steering Rack you need is in stock, and cost $475.00 plus any freight.

The company we use engineers these racks to eliminate all the issues other racks have.



They’ve re-engineered the gears out of stronger material and they have tighter tolerances.

The housing has better material for the rack bushings.

The warranty is 2 years- one year longer than a new Toyota rack.

All the other racks we have used have given us problems, these have not.

One thing to remember- always flush your system before installing a new one, you don’t want any abrasives in the old fluid grinding away at the new rack.

Let me know if you have further questions,

Grant Kinkade

Parts Manager


The Grand Valley’s Independent Toyota Service Center
1005 Pitkin Avenue
Grand Junction, CO 81501

Sounds worth trying out depending on what shipping will set you back. As far as re-engineering that sounds a bit overplayed but maybe the inside is upgraded as he described. I remember my rack saying Toyoda spelled with a "d", if you see that on the casting you know its a rebuild not completely fresh parts. Id be suprised if they are actually casting their own housings for the rack though. Keep us informed if you purchase/install it.:cheers:

ps. did you confirm no core charge? wish you were in TX i would like an extra power seering rack lol
 
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Sounds worth trying out depending on what shipping will set you back. As far as re-engineering that sounds a bit overplayed but maybe the inside is upgraded as he described. I remember my rack saying Toyoda spelled with a "d", if you see that on the casting you know its a rebuild not completely fresh parts. Id be suprised if they are actually casting their own housings for the rack though. Keep us informed if you purchase/install it.:cheers:

ps. did you confirm no core charge? wish you were in TX i would like an extra power seering rack lol

Mr Toyota's name is actually spelled Toyoda. Kiichiro Toyoda - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

You may see it spelled that way some places as I think the Japanese sometimes spell it the original way.
 
Sounds worth trying out depending on what shipping will set you back. As far as re-engineering that sounds a bit overplayed but maybe the inside is upgraded as he described. I remember my rack saying Toyoda spelled with a "d", if you see that on the casting you know its a rebuild not completely fresh parts. Id be suprised if they are actually casting their own housings for the rack though. Keep us informed if you purchase/install it.:cheers:

ps. did you confirm no core charge? wish you were in TX i would like an extra power seering rack lol

I emailed them back again today and asked them if they were remanufactured racks. Heres the response

Philip,



The racks are brand new not remanufactured. We have had nothing but great luck with them and won’t use anything else. Also most of the other shops in our area buy them from us exclusively.

Can we get one to you? They are in stock.



Regards,

Hugh Phillips
 
Those of you with "bad" steering racks - how did you know it was bad? I had a shop tell me that mine needs to be replaced, but I have no leaks and I am not sure why they would have said that. My steering has never had any issues.

Thanks
 
Those of you with "bad" steering racks - how did you know it was bad? I had a shop tell me that mine needs to be replaced, but I have no leaks and I am not sure why they would have said that. My steering has never had any issues.

Thanks

If it's not leaking, and your steering is tight, then there is no reason to replace it. You can try replacing the rack guide and bushings first. How are you Inner/Outer tie rods?
 
If it's not leaking, and your steering is tight, then there is no reason to replace it. You can try replacing the rack guide and bushings first. How are you Inner/Outer tie rods?

when the inners go, i always struggle with if it's worth it to just buy a new rack with high mileage on the stock one or not, if 2 inner tie rods cost you $130 or so and a new rack is only $300, getting a complete new rack maybe worth it from the get go, just another thing to make what your going through more difficult..sorry, haha, otherwise like others are saying, bushings,rod ends and rest of a cheaper R&R if it's not leaking and pulls strong.
 
when the inners go, i always struggle with if it's worth it to just buy a new rack with high mileage on the stock one or not, if 2 inner tie rods cost you $130 or so and a new rack is only $300, getting a complete new rack maybe worth it from the get go, just another thing to make what your going through more difficult..sorry, haha, otherwise like others are saying, bushings,rod ends and rest of a cheaper R&R if it's not leaking and pulls strong.

I have 347k on an original rack. I just don't see these things being a problem. I have no seepage, no loss of fluid, and the steering is tight as can be after doing new LBJ, OTR, ITR. I still need to do the rack bushings and the rack guide, but right now I am very happy with my steering.
 
I have 347k on an original rack. I just don't see these things being a problem. I have no seepage, no loss of fluid, and the steering is tight as can be after doing new LBJ, OTR, ITR. I still need to do the rack bushings and the rack guide, but right now I am very happy with my steering.

oh yeah no doubt some people have no issues, but then again some do, i think the guys running the bigger tires tend to be the ones having to actually replace the whole rack, but there's also a cost analysis in there as well, how much do you have into all of those parts vs ones that are covered by just going with a new rack all together vs projected life of either vs how much money you actually have and what you plan to do, if op is planning on 35's i might be tempted to go with a new rack and just have it sorted, seals and the rest do have a life span and will fail one day, maybe a bit longer for the guys running 265's over 285's and then a bit more than 305's ...really it's all kind of a gamble...personally i've never replaced the rack, I've done teh same R&R you've done, but have always been tempted with just going with a new rack due to the little price difference...just so happens i never have the extra money to just buy the rack, so i do it in stages as you have...like i said at the end of my last post, nothing wrong with that at all, but maybe op should just consider getting a new rack all together depending on whats going with his and what he plans to do in the future, it's just something i looked at and thought the op should consider as well on some level... i agree with you, but the op should at least look at it once it's figured out exactly what is needed...
 
OLD THREAD BUMP..

Anyone been running one of the AAE new racks care to share your experience with it?
 
I would like to know also. My $350 new aftermarket rack is leaking after 3-4 years. Also both ITRE's failed first month.

From what i found researching pretty much only one manufacture making this rack. Just renamed and resold.
 
OLD THREAD BUMP..

Anyone been running one of the AAE new racks care to share your experience with it?

I installed the 3273N this past June. It's been A-okay. I haven't put it through too much stress yet, but everything looks good and leak free. I have 3" Eibach coils up front. Visual inspection says that the included ITR ends don't have as large of a range of motion as OEM, but I've been fully flexed a few times and haven't heard or seen the ITR ends maxing out.

I also went with ACDelco OTR ends and they feel good/look good. We'll see how well they hold up.

It took, like, 2k miles for the rack guide or whatever to break in. Steering felt very stiff after install, but it's loosened up a little by now so it feels great and returns to center better than before.

I got mine from Amazon.
LINK
 
I am running the safari ltd rack. Got it a few years ago. There were some threads going around a few years ago about whether the safari rack and aae were the same. And it seems that they are, except that the safari rack uses brass bushings. Safari confirmed that to me. But they never told me who their provider was.

Assuming they are the same rack, I'll give my thoughts on mine. It's solid, still the same as it was 2 years ago. But still there was a tiny bit of play in my steering from the beginning. I found that the play is coming from where the splined shaft comes out of the top of the rack. If I tap it lightly with a hammer or shake it by hand I can feel that bit of play. In the steering wheel you feel it more, especially off road. Some people might not find it to be bothersome. But any loose feeling/clunking/rattling from the front end drives me crazy. I don't know if it's normal or if I just got a bad bushing. Other than that the rack has been fine.
 
I am running the safari ltd rack. Got it a few years ago. There were some threads going around a few years ago about whether the safari rack and aae were the same. And it seems that they are, except that the safari rack uses brass bushings. Safari confirmed that to me. But they never told me who their provider was.

Are these internal brash bushings? And what did their brass bushings replace? What's factory?
 

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