T4Rscott
New member
Yea none of the links work on PC, weird. Here's a screenshot of a '97, should be the same
Yeah, it wasn’t even close. Colors are different
AC has me baffled…
- Thread starter T4Rscott
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Yeah, it wasn’t even close. Colors are different
T4Rscott
New member
I was able to get ahold of a good second hand amplifier. It does the same damn thing
T4Rscott
New member
Well I have come to a point of defeat with this AC system.
I have no real experience with electrical, and no diagrams to go on. I have changed the amplifier a second time, I have probed as much as possible. It is time to fly the white flag…….
Thanks everyone for your help
Scott
I have no real experience with electrical, and no diagrams to go on. I have changed the amplifier a second time, I have probed as much as possible. It is time to fly the white flag…….
Thanks everyone for your help
Scott
jbtvt
New member
If it doesn't match the 97 diagrams you can get the 02 manual here Toyota Tacoma/ 4Runner/ Tundra/ FJ Cruiser Factory Service Manual Page
I may also have pdf 97 ac section from my swap. Would they help if the wiring diagram was different though?
I wonder if my 1997 fsm has the ac section in it. As my paper ones are 2001 and I. Bought the 1997 for my 5 speed transmission.
I may also have pdf 97 ac section from my swap. Would they help if the wiring diagram was different though?
brillo_76
Elite Member
OP has a 99 so an 02 will be just as incorrect since 01-02 only had digital climate control and OP has manual climate controls.
brillo_76
Elite Member
Hard to say the cause. I know they are dead in this thread. Are they dead across the entire forum or just this thread?
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jbtvt
New member
Seems to be just this thread (or subforum?) links in following thread work, for example Fog lights with high beams... the easy way
T4Rscott
New member
Do you do testing connected and not connected on the AC amplifier connection? Because if your sure you have the proper refrigerate amount. With your pressure switch working properly. Your down to a wire harness issue like the FSM says.
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Yes I have. That’s how I got only 5v on pin3 to ground connected. I disconnected the harness from the amplifier to thermistor and back to the dash, no issues there. I’m going to do a continuity test from the different pins to the endpoints, like pressure switch, clutch and so on….
diverscale
Member
I quickly glanced the thread, and I understand you don't have manifolds to check the pressures and what happens when you press the gas?
You going on blind if that is the case. There are cheap manifold sets on amazon that you could use for this time, might not last and might leak, but at the least you would see what's actually happening and not go blind. Impossible to diag A/C without manifolds
You going on blind if that is the case. There are cheap manifold sets on amazon that you could use for this time, might not last and might leak, but at the least you would see what's actually happening and not go blind. Impossible to diag A/C without manifolds
T4Rscott
New member
When I step on the gas pedal the clutch engages, and when I let off, it will stop.
I understand what you are saying about the gauges. However, the pressure was fine at the time it was serviced and was still doing the same thing. I will look into a set from Harbor Freight.
brillo_76
Elite Member
I would just verify with gauges.. As my limited AC wouldnt work at all. Thought all i just have a bad pressure switch because the PO had the ac disconnected and I figure the Switched just failed. So when I took it to my buddys to have it evacuated to replace the switch... I only had 10 pounds psi. My 1997 limited has a leak. Hopefully the dye in the system will so me where this leak is.. I changed the switch anyhow. Put a almost 2 cans of 12 oz refrigerate in and See if i can find my leak.
Yours could be perfect pressures. It will rule it out.
I think if your system is all checkes out and your amplifirer is good.. You have a wiring power issue somewhere ad that is all that is really left. :-(
I did finally get the electrical diagrams in photo form on this thread for the 1999 model year..:becky:
T4Rscott
New member
Ok, it’s the time you’ve all been waiting for,
I put the gauges on it, and here’s the results:
With the engine @1500 rpm, AC on, fan on HIGH and temp at max cool,
Low side was 30-35 psi
High side was 350-400 psi
When the engine returned to idle:
Low was 80-85 psi
High was 200-225psi
The outside temp was about 85 and to was 45% humidity.
According to the FSM, it could be the condenser or the expansion valve.
Let me know what you all think.
Scott
I put the gauges on it, and here’s the results:
With the engine @1500 rpm, AC on, fan on HIGH and temp at max cool,
Low side was 30-35 psi
High side was 350-400 psi
When the engine returned to idle:
Low was 80-85 psi
High was 200-225psi
The outside temp was about 85 and to was 45% humidity.
According to the FSM, it could be the condenser or the expansion valve.
Let me know what you all think.
Scott
Your high-side pressure at 1500rpm is way too high and the low side is a bit high. At idle, your low side should be roughly 30.
Possible causes: weak fan clutch or overcharged system or partially plugged condenser, which could be something internal or the fins plugged by dirt or mud.
A bad expansion valve usually results in the low side being very low or going into vacuum.
Possible causes: weak fan clutch or overcharged system or partially plugged condenser, which could be something internal or the fins plugged by dirt or mud.
A bad expansion valve usually results in the low side being very low or going into vacuum.
brillo_76
Elite Member
Ok.. how was this system refrigerate amount verified.
Was the system evacuated and the proper amount of refrigerate pushed in? Or are we just reading gauges psi and tweaking it this way?
Because the you pressure can be right on the edge where the safety switch it tripping out.
Plus what does your site glass looking like? As that glass can tell you alot how the ac is system.
Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk
Was the system evacuated and the proper amount of refrigerate pushed in? Or are we just reading gauges psi and tweaking it this way?
Because the you pressure can be right on the edge where the safety switch it tripping out.
Plus what does your site glass looking like? As that glass can tell you alot how the ac is system.
Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk
