T4Rscott
New member
I can only go by the shop that did the evac and refill. They used a Robin Air machine.
I looked at the condenser and it is rough. I remember when I did the radiator, the fins were popping out very easily due to age and corrosion.
AC has me baffled…
- Thread starter T4Rscott
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I can only go by the shop that did the evac and refill. They used a Robin Air machine.
I looked at the condenser and it is rough. I remember when I did the radiator, the fins were popping out very easily due to age and corrosion.
Those pressures at idle and 1500rpm lead me to believe your system is overcharged
brillo_76
Elite Member
And if it's overcharged it can blow the compressor [ yes I did that before ] You can't tell how much refregerate is in the system.
I blow a compressor using gauges. I had a bad Condenser and naturally way too much refrigerate. Blew the compressor and it was over. Pressure equal on high and low.
If your ac system. Wasn't evacuated and the proper amount of refrigerate put in. Then that's were you start.
Unless your tracing leaks like I am. You really have to watch the refrigerate amount.
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I blow a compressor using gauges. I had a bad Condenser and naturally way too much refrigerate. Blew the compressor and it was over. Pressure equal on high and low.
If your ac system. Wasn't evacuated and the proper amount of refrigerate put in. Then that's were you start.
Unless your tracing leaks like I am. You really have to watch the refrigerate amount.
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T4Rscott
New member
What the sight glass can tell you.
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It was filled appropriately according to the sight glass.
brillo_76
Elite Member
That tells you your Condenser needs replaced. When you see that happening. It's time to replace the Condenser. Very common after 20 plus years.
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T4Rscott
New member
Should I worry about the expansion valve or receiver/dryer?
If you haven’t had the receiver/dryer replaced then I would recommend doing so while the system is open
diverscale
Member
At what temperature and humidity was that 350-400 taken? to have these kind of ''normal'' high side pressure, you would be in a very hot and humid environment, and your overpressure switch is probably just about to turn off the system. Your low pressure would also higher than that because of the humidity.
These high pressure can be cause by an overcharged system, or an undercooled condenser which has happened on a older car of mine. Condenser was new, but fans didn't turn on, added some relays connected to the compressor clutch and the system was bone cold with normal 200 approx psi at 20 celcius.
But these pressure are definitely very high in my limited experience.
These high pressure can be cause by an overcharged system, or an undercooled condenser which has happened on a older car of mine. Condenser was new, but fans didn't turn on, added some relays connected to the compressor clutch and the system was bone cold with normal 200 approx psi at 20 celcius.
But these pressure are definitely very high in my limited experience.
brillo_76
Elite Member
I am suspecting unless it's clarified that this ac system may have multiple issues. We don't know if the proper amount refrigerate is in the system.
We know the Condenser is now completely shot as it's loosing cooling fins.
Plus it's possible it was circuity may have issues..
Translation: It's a hot mess.
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We know the Condenser is now completely shot as it's loosing cooling fins.
Plus it's possible it was circuity may have issues..
Translation: It's a hot mess.
Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk
T4Rscott
New member
Ok so here’s the deal,
I replaced the condenser, receiver/dryer, expansion valve and had the system recharged.
It’s still doing the same thing. I’m thinking it could be a throttle body issue. All that has to be done is bump the pulley for the throttle and the AC comes on and runs fine. I tried to slightly adjust the TPS and the Ac comes on, but now I have an engine idling between 960 and 1000 rpm’s.
I replaced the condenser, receiver/dryer, expansion valve and had the system recharged.
It’s still doing the same thing. I’m thinking it could be a throttle body issue. All that has to be done is bump the pulley for the throttle and the AC comes on and runs fine. I tried to slightly adjust the TPS and the Ac comes on, but now I have an engine idling between 960 and 1000 rpm’s.
T4Rscott
New member
You pretty much proved its not a ac mechanical issue. It's in the electrical side. Looking like whatever tells the amplifier what the engine rpm is. It's also looking like something extremely rare as nobody has the solution for you.
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I’m going to get another TB, albeit used to try and see. The person wants 35 bucks.
brillo_76
Elite Member
Does your rig idle properly for the engine operation? No engine issues? If so, I highly doubt its the the Throttle Body..
It will rule it out as well..
T4Rscott
New member
Does your rig idle properly for the engine operation? No engine issues? If so, I highly doubt its the the Throttle Body..
It will rule it out as well..
The motor idles and purrs like a kitten.
Actually, I think it could be the ECM, because this all started right after I did my timing belt service.
I remember during the service I was trying to hold the crank pulley with a homemade pulley holder, and at the same time use a large torque wrench to torque the bolt to spec. The pulley holder slipped from my grip and touched the positive battery post for a brief second. I’m wondering if that could be the culprit.
brillo_76
Elite Member
I believe myself and badluck really think its an electrical issue. Its quite possible the ecm is damaged. I am leaning towards whatever feeds the rpm information to your ac amplifier as the issue.
T4Rscott
New member
I believe myself and badluck really think its an electrical issue. Its quite possible the ecm is damaged. I am leaning towards whatever feeds the rpm information to your ac amplifier as the issue.
Yes for sure!
Hopefully I find another ECM to try
T4Rscott
New member
I believe myself and badluck really think its an electrical issue. Its quite possible the ecm is damaged. I am leaning towards whatever feeds the rpm information to your ac amplifier as the issue.
I think I found a possible issue.
I went back to the FSM and looked up the ECM plug diagram. I proceeded to check everything to do with the AC.
AC switch off - 9-14v
AC switch on at idle 5v or more
Both tests were 0volts
The circuit it labeled ACT-E1. I wonder if that is actuation? I traced the wire blue/ yellow straight back to the amplifier.
I’m in the process of getting another ECM.
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