AC Light Blinking, Warm Air, Not the Mag Clutch Relay or Compressor

[13sr54runner]

Hi everyone,

I have a lot of info in this one and I’m hoping someone has the solution for me.

My brother has an ‘06 sport edition v6 that stopped blowing cold air a few weeks ago (blower motor runs when A/C button is pressed but only warm air). The light on the A/C button was also blinking. I replaced the magnetic clutch relay but still no cold air. Below I will list the other things Ive tried as troubleshooting:

- Bypassed the relay with jumper cables in the fuse box. This causes the magnetic clutch to engage, blow cold air, and work perfectly for as long as you have the relay bypassed. However, when the relay, which is definitely not faulty, gets plugged back in, the magnetic clutch engages for about 1-3 seconds before quitting. It does not come back on after.

- shorted the pressure switch by the high side pressure valve. This didn’t have any effect so I have to assume this switch is fine.

- used pressure gauges to test if I have Freon. The levels seem fine to me but I will post the image of the pressures below.

- read on this forum about the thermistor. Removed the glove box and shorted the thermistor wires. Still no effect.


So, when I bypass everything at the fuse box, the compressor works fine as I described above so I feel like I must be missing some sensor somewhere that may have gone bad. Anyone have any other suggestions?


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[13sr54runner]

Hi everyone,

I have a lot of info in this one and I’m hoping someone has the solution for me.

My brother has an ‘06 sport edition v6 that stopped blowing cold air a few weeks ago (blower motor runs when A/C button is pressed but only warm air). The light on the A/C button was also blinking. I replaced the magnetic clutch relay but still no cold air. Below I will list the other things Ive tried as troubleshooting:

- Bypassed the relay with jumper cables in the fuse box. This causes the magnetic clutch to engage, blow cold air, and work perfectly for as long as you have the relay bypassed. However, when the relay, which is definitely not faulty, gets plugged back in, the magnetic clutch engages for about 1-3 seconds before quitting. It does not come back on after.

- shorted the pressure switch by the high side pressure valve. This didn’t have any effect so I have to assume this switch is fine.

- used pressure gauges to test if I have Freon. The levels seem fine to me but I will post the image of the pressures below.

- read on this forum about the thermistor. Removed the glove box and shorted the thermistor wires. Still no effect.


So, when I bypass everything at the fuse box, the compressor works fine as I described above so I feel like I must be missing some sensor somewhere that may have gone bad. Anyone have any other suggestions?View attachment 298829


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**Forgot to add that the pressure readings were taken with the car off after the relay was bypassed and working for about 20 seconds**


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[Mike07SE]

Possibly try another relay. I think you may have answered your question by saying that was the culprit when you jumped the connection.

I just went through this several months ago.

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[13sr54runner]

Possibly try another relay. I think you may have answered your question by saying that was the culprit when you jumped the connection.

I just went through this several months ago.

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Thanks for the reply. Just tried that by swapping it with the fog light relay and same issue occurred: clutch engages for 1-3 seconds, turns off, then the ac light starts to blink again .


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[Bossman]

Toyota did issue a Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) for this issue:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/tsb/77340-el011-05-06-03-2005-c-inoperative-c-light-flashing.html

"If the part number is 90987-02022, please replace the relay with the countermeasured relay P/N 90987-02028."

Even though you are swapping (fog light) relays to test, you may want to try the upgraded relay.

 

[13sr54runner]

Toyota did issue a Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) for this issue:



http://www.toyota-4runner.org/tsb/77340-el011-05-06-03-2005-c-inoperative-c-light-flashing.html



"If the part number is 90987-02022, please replace the relay with the countermeasured relay P/N 90987-02028."



Even though you are swapping (fog light) relays to test, you may want to try the upgraded relay.

This 4Runner actually had the “02028” gray-colored relay installed from factory (sorry, I probably should have mentioned that). I tried swapping it out just as a hopeful easy solution. I tested the resistance in the relay as well and it was approx. 175 ohms which I read somewhere on this forum is what it should be.


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[13sr54runner]

As an update for anyone else that has this issue, the problem ended up being the clutch speed sensor on the AC compressor. Since it is an internal sensor, the compressor needed to be swapped out.

A few tips for anyone trying to remove the compressor:

- remove the alternator, driverside front tire, and rubber access panels in the wheel well to get to all of the bolts on the compressor
- another huge help was removing the bracket that holds the Low pressure AC lines to the frame

Unfortunately I have no pictures and while the process isn’t the easiest due to rusty bolts and the terrible place that the compressor is in, it’s definitely a doable job.

AC now blows cold and is back to normal.


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[deft2003]

Late bump to the thread.

I've run down the same issues and I've isolated it to the compressor clutch itself I believe. Running a jumper from the batt positive to the connection on the compressor yields no noise or movement so I'm of the impression that the clutch is bad. Is there not a way to service this individually of the compressor itself? Do I have to replace the entire compressor?

The best looking deal I've found on the entire unit is on amazon but I can't get it until next week!!

 

[deft2003]

Just got back from a reputable shop that confirmed my clutch is bad. They don't recommend replacing just the clutch since its just as much labor to replace the whole compressor (I guess you can't get the clutch off when its still in the car).

Since I didn't have catastrophic compressor failure rather just the clutch, is it necessary to replace the expansion valve and condenser while I'm opening things up?

 

[deft2003]

For all you sports fans following along at home, I got it fixed. I ended up just buying a new compressor and changing it and the condenser out. Wasn't about to pull the dash apart for the expansion valve since it was *most likely* just the clutch anyways. I'm out $250 for parts and $100 for the shop to initially evac, then vacuum and fill the system. Cold A/C is back again.

And the tips given in the post right before mine were spot on for getting it out of there. When putting it back in, there's a small bracket where one of the 3 bolts for the compressor go and it helps to loosen it up.

 

[dwulffusa]

This has been a useful post.

My compressor began "rattling" intermittently at idle about a year ago and local dealer indicated it was a bearing or the clutch on the compressor and that the compressor needed to be replaced - which seems to be the answer for anything compressor related. Quoted $1000.. I smiled and declined.

My local indy shop also diagnosed that the rattling appeared to be coming from the compressor and that I should replace the compressor. (there is some rattling without the ac engaged but more noticeable when its on)

It is noise free above idle and consistently blows cold. Is it ok to run it until it stops, or is there a risk of destroying something else if it seizes?


Thanks

 

[AuSeeker]

This has been a useful post.

My compressor began "rattling" intermittently at idle about a year ago and local dealer indicated it was a bearing or the clutch on the compressor and that the compressor needed to be replaced - which seems to be the answer for anything compressor related. Quoted $1000.. I smiled and declined.

My local indy shop also diagnosed that the rattling appeared to be coming from the compressor and that I should replace the compressor. (there is some rattling without the ac engaged but more noticeable when its on)

It is noise free above idle and consistently blows cold. Is it ok to run it until it stops, or is there a risk of destroying something else if it seizes?


Thanks

I think it will get a lot more nosier before it would seize up, BUT if it does seize up the issue is the serpentine belt is the only belt that drives everything which means if the compressor seizes the vehicle will not be able to operate at all so it would be time to call the tow truck, other than that I doubt any other damage will occur.

 

[ccook718]

I swapped the relay and it wasn't bad. I replaced the compressor and tried to put the refrigerant in the system and the pressure was around 95 psi without any fluid. I'm thinking there could be a blockage in the system any help?