Adding a Console USB Power Port to my 2007 Sport

Thanks for the writeup!

Wow, this writeup spared me a lot of headache...took less than 30 min!
 

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Can someone verify that both of these ports are each 2.1A? Some of the other similar ones on amazon are 2.1 and the other is 1.2
 
[MENTION=137652]jfry008[/MENTION], looks great - glad the writeup helped. I still have 1 set of dust plugs, PM me if you want them.

[MENTION=135582]basing110[/MENTION], a link to the ports I used is in the 1st post & the Amazon listing says both are 2.1A. I haven't measured the output though.
 
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Cool thanks.. i just read somewhere in the thread where someone stated that it was charging slower..just wanted to check
 
Yeah, actually I think that was me but it turned out I just didn't realize how much slower a larger device like an iPad would charge in the car vs. on the wall charger. Live and learn.

Cool thanks.. i just read somewhere in the thread where someone stated that it was charging slower..just wanted to check
 
As a follow up to my post as well, there is a keyswitch power in the unused connector that should work but it's one of the ground wires from that connector (found by testing continuity with chassis ground) that caused my dimmer issue. Is I used chassis ground, no issue, if I used this connector "ground" in the connector I could control the brightness of my test light with the dimmer. So we're both right/wrong lol, good info thanks!



Any idea what color that keyed power wire is in the connector ?
 
Others have done this but for what it's worth, here's my experience with adding USB power ports in my 4th gen 4Runner. It's a very easy mod that didn't take 2 hours total despite the problems with the plug, painting, etc.

I used this product, which definitely presented some challenges as described in my Amazon review.

But all's well that ends well so here is the story. Fortunately, it's very easy to install and access the port so that made the problems much more tolerable.

1. I used quick splices to tap into the 12V power port outlet in the console. Considered using an add-a-circuit but this worked fine. Like the power port, the USB port is controlled by the ignition. Things to keep in mind - as others have noted, be sure the wire you're placing into the quick splice is all the way in and squeeze the metal part all the way down, and be aware that the quick splice things have this conductive jelly stuff in them (much like Vaseline) so have a rag or paper towel handy to wipe your hands before handling any other parts.

New edit: This pic was taken with everything plugged back in and ready to reassemble. Before you start the wiring part, just unplug the white power port plug and blue DAC switch plug. Each has a locking tab on one side and may be tight, so squeeze the tabs and gently work them until they come out. Then lay the big console piece aside and you'll have the space you need to work.

Screen%20Shot%202015-10-25%20at%202.41.04%20PM_zpsc1xo9md9.png~original


2. Here's how the port looks if installed as sold. It fits the opening perfectly but isn't anywhere close to a match for the OEM switches. BTW, I saw a question about how the OEM plugs come out of the openings in another thread. It's simple, they're held in by tabs and easy to remove.

IMG_3061_zpskb5csekt.jpg~original


3. The blue light won't even be noticed by some owners but will probably seem like a blinding blue death laser to others. I fell in the middle. It's not awful but it's at the bottom right limit of my peripheral vision so it was kind of irritating at night. Pics don't do it justice...it's not that passive for lack of a better word, it's pretty bright. See solution below.

IMG_3111_zpsjmjmmqox.jpg~original


4. Since I didn't like the shiny finish, I decided to take the port out and paint the easily removeable cover to better match the OEM switches. Two light coats of flat black and one light coat of a clear matte protective finish (figured it would help the paint hold up better in the long run) did the trick. Wasn't worried about covering the USB logos and figured it might help with the blue light too.

IMG_3114_zpsaa12ie0f.jpg~original


IMG_3115_zpsh7jxkw1h.jpg~original


5. Painted and reinstalled.

IMG_3116_zpsxybhtrlp.jpg~original


6. It did help with the light. I've also ordered black dust plugs which will block it completely and keep gunk from getting down into the ports. I'll post an updated pic once those come in.

IMG_3119_zpsknuvbmlt.jpg~original


If anyone has any questions, fire away.
What size quick splices did you get? The 18 ga I picked up are not cutting into the small rust and black and white wires that supply power
 
I've since replaced the ones in the pics with the far better Scotchloks. I have extra Scotchloks and if you PM me your address, I'll send you a few. No charge, paying forward kindnesses shown to me. I just ask that you consider doing the same when the chance comes your way.
 
I did this mod and have been out of town for a week and came back to a battery too weak to turn the engine over. Anyone else experiencing this after the mod


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I did this mod and have been out of town for a week and came back to a battery too weak to turn the engine over. Anyone else experiencing this after the mod


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm no electrical expert but as far as I know, this mod could only cause that if it was wired into an always-hot circuit as opposed to one controlled by the ignition.
 
Thanks, glad it helped. Can't count the time and money I've saved through the years by using write-ups on this forum and the Xterra Owners Club before so it's nice to be able to pay it forward.
 
Just purchased 5 USB dust plugs on Ebay for .99 including shipping. Another seller has 10 plugs for $1.42 including shipping.
 
Last set is spoken for.

// That reminds me, I still have one more extra set of 2 dust plugs. Free to first PM with your mailing address. //
 
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