Advice For Cargo Drawer Build

Lexington

Member
Hi All

Im building a low profile drawer based of of Bandit Runners drawer build on page 5.
Bandit Runner Build 2.0

The top of the drawer is going to be about a 1/8 thick sheet of aluminum. Im going to cover it with this Metra TL301-5 BLACK BOX CARPET 54" X 5 YARDS which is a excellent match to the 4Runner. (Thanks again Bandit Runner!)
Metra TL301-5 BLACK BOX CARPET 54" X 5 YARDS 86429057481 | eBay

However in between the aluminum and carpet I want to put in some padding. I need to cover a 40”x36” square piece.

Option 1 is to use a 1/8-1/4 inch thick foam/rubber double sided tape something like this one.
High Density Foam Insulation Tape Adhesive Rubber Strip, Seal, Door Insulation Foam Tape Weatherstrip, Waterproof, HVAC, Pipes, Foam Strips Air Conditioning, Weather Stripping Foam(33Ft x 1/8’’ x 2’’) - - Amazon.com. Most likely I would need about 3 rolls of this stuff.

Option 2 is to used is to used a 1/8-1/4 inch thick carpet padding like this one.
Amazon.com: Mohawk Home 4 x 6 1/5 Low Profile Non Slip Rug Pad Felt + Rubber Gripper, Great For High Traffic Areas -Safe For All Floors : Everything Else
If I go this route I will need some type of adhesive to put between the aluminum and pad and something between the pad and the carpet. I’m not sure what would be the best adhesive for this application. Thin double sided tape or auto headliner spray glue.

If anyone has done this or have used any of these products or carpentry skill Id like to hear your thoughts on this.

Thanks
 
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I have a full shop full of pro tools and many years of experience in carpentry and fabrication.

My advice?

Buy a baseplate setup from Goose Gear or AJC with their prefeb drawers or grab a a drawer setup from Dobinson’s or ARB. To me the time spent and material cost for a quality, “last for 10 years” on rough roads build wasnt worth it for us to try to fab up. Unless your focus is building and not trail-riding/ adventuring. In that case, have at it.

For us - needing a slick rear cargo area at certain points, and the overall weight hit from permanent drawers, (as well as time involved in building) moved us away from them and towards a shelf, fridge slider and cargo plate from AJC.
 
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I have a full shop full of pro tools and many years of experience in carpentry and fabrication. My advice?

Buy a baseplate setup from Goose Gear or AJC with their prefeb drawers or grab a a drawer setup from Dobinson’s or ARB.

To me the time spent and material cost for a quality, “last for 10 years” on rough roads build wasnt worth it for us to try to fab up.

Unless your focus is building and not trail-riding/ adventuring. In that case, have at it.

For us - needing a slick rear cargo area at certain points, and the overall weight hit from permanent drawers, (as well as time involved in building) moved us away from them and towards a shelf, fridge slider and cargo plate from AJC.
Hi Bigdaddy

I have looked at Goose Gear and other prefab stuff but most of it is too big and overkill for my needs. I’m not building it for over landing. It’s primarily a storage drawer to keep things hidden from view for daily driving but I do periodically go camping and do go off trail but usually nothing severe. However I do want it to serve as a sleeping platform when needed. So that’s why I’m building because I found nothing that serves my particular needs.
 
Hi Bigdaddy

I have looked at Goose Gear and other prefab stuff but most of it is too big and overkill for my needs. I’m not building it for over landing. It’s primarily a storage drawer to keep things hidden from view for daily driving but I do periodically go camping and do go off trail but usually nothing severe. However I do want it to serve as a sleeping platform when needed. So that’s why I’m building because I found nothing that serves my particular needs.

That’s a valid, specific reason, IMO. More power to ya. I’m sure these guys/gals will be along to offer some build input. :thumbs up:
 
Hi Bigdaddy

I have looked at Goose Gear and other prefab stuff but most of it is too big and overkill for my needs. I’m not building it for over landing. It’s primarily a storage drawer to keep things hidden from view for daily driving but I do periodically go camping and do go off trail but usually nothing severe. However I do want it to serve as a sleeping platform when needed. So that’s why I’m building because I found nothing that serves my particular needs.

look up solidwoodworx on instagram. he sells prebuilt drawer system for our cars. building it up is super easy.
i thought about building a drawer sys myself but saved my time and just purchased the kit.

i think he sells the blueprints
 
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look up solidwoodworx on instagram. he sells prebuilt drawer system for our cars. building it up is super easy.
i thought about building a drawer sys myself but saved my time and just purchased the kit.

i think he sells the blueprints

Hi Jasxn

I’ve looked at this too and actually talked to this guy if he could make a low profile version of his kit but he only makes the one size which is about 8 inches high. I wanted it around 4-1/4. I thought about buying the blue print but the problem with the 4Runner is that the plastic wheel well walls are tapered and not straight up and down. So at 8 inches high the width between the two wheel wells is about 44.5”. At 4” it’s about 41”, so the solidwoodworx plans wouldnt work for me. It’s also a heavy duty build and I think he said it’s about 250-300lb and it runs about $1,600. My build I’ve think I’ve spent less than $300 so far and I think the total weight will be about 60lb roughly. And since this will pretty much in my truck most of the time, lighter is better.
 
Hi Jasxn

I’ve looked at this too and actually talked to this guy if he could make a low profile version of his kit but he only makes the one size which is about 8 inches high. I wanted it around 4-1/4. I thought about buying the blue print but the problem with the 4Runner is that the plastic wheel well walls are tapered and not straight up and down. So at 8 inches high the width between the two wheel wells is about 44.5”. At 4” it’s about 41”, so the solidwoodworx plans wouldnt work for me. It’s also a heavy duty build and I think he said it’s about 250-300lb and it runs about $1,600. My build I’ve think I’ve spent less than $300 so far and I think the total weight will be about 60lb roughly. And since this will pretty much in my truck most of the time, lighter is better.

i guess compared to other brands like goosegear, its on the "cheaper" side.
but for sure we could make it ourselves for much less.

i think he meant the drawer strength pulled out can handle around 250-300#s. the total drawer only weighs in at 100#s. I've also debated cutting out sections on the bottom to reduce some weight but it'll be negligible.

but yes, i wouldve perferred a lower profile like what you want. I think there are some posts here or even 4runners.com that people already measured out and you can make the adjustments to fit your lowprofile drawer setup.

good luck! should be a fun build though!
 
Hi Bigdaddy

I have looked at Goose Gear and other prefab stuff but most of it is too big and overkill for my needs. I’m not building it for over landing. It’s primarily a storage drawer to keep things hidden from view for daily driving but I do periodically go camping and do go off trail but usually nothing severe. However I do want it to serve as a sleeping platform when needed. So that’s why I’m building because I found nothing that serves my particular needs.

I would a closed cell foam pad to go in between the aluminum and carpet. These are cheap, and are often times just called yoga pads. You can use 3m Super 90 adhesive to bonding them together.

There are other places out there besides Goose and Aiden that are better suited for people wanting something outside of the box. I sell drawer units that are completely customizable to suite your needs. I don't mass produce any of these, and have really been focusing on custom jobs lately. If you have an idea, I can most likely make it happen in a 5th Gen. For something really involved I can scan the vehicle and model around that. My main focus has been on old Landcruiser's, but I am currently working on a full 4runner buildout with camp kitchen. The one pictured below started as a scan, and will be used in a 60 Series LC with an Alu-Cab Thor custom conversation on it.

High quality furniture grade ply and not shop ply like many others use, and no bedliner. 500lb locking/non-locking slides for the drawer with mitre folded drawers for a cleaner look.

If I can help, reach out.

Mike

R7qz2c.jpg

NT66En.png

cym4dz.jpg

rtNMNh.jpg
 
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Man, really sanitary, solid work there, Mike. Thanks for sharing pics of your work...er..ARTwork. :)

I would a closed cell foam pad to go in between the aluminum and carpet. These are cheap, and are often times just called yoga pads. You can use 3m Super 90 adhesive to bonding them together.

There are other places out there besides Goose and Aiden that are better suited for people wanting something outside of the box. I sell drawer units that are completely customizable to suite your needs. I don't mass produce any of these, and have really been focusing on custom jobs lately. If you have an idea, I can most likely make it happen in a 5th Gen. For something really involved I can scan the vehicle and model around that. My main focus has been on old Landcruiser's, but I am currently working on a full 4runner buildout with camp kitchen. The one pictured below started as a scan, and will be used in a 60 Series LC with an Alu-Cab Thor custom conversation on it.

High quality furniture grade ply and not shop ply like many others use, and no bedliner. 500lb locking/non-locking slides for the drawer with mitre folded drawers for a cleaner look.

If I can help, reach out.

Mike

R7qz2c.jpg

NT66En.png

cym4dz.jpg

rtNMNh.jpg
 
I would a closed cell foam pad to go in between the aluminum and carpet. These are cheap, and are often times just called yoga pads. You can use 3m Super 90 adhesive to bonding them together.

There are other places out there besides Goose and Aiden that are better suited for people wanting something outside of the box. I sell drawer units that are completely customizable to suite your needs. I don't mass produce any of these, and have really been focusing on custom jobs lately. If you have an idea, I can most likely make it happen in a 5th Gen. For something really involved I can scan the vehicle and model around that. My main focus has been on old Landcruiser's, but I am currently working on a full 4runner buildout with camp kitchen. The one pictured below started as a scan, and will be used in a 60 Series LC with an Alu-Cab Thor custom conversation on it.

High quality furniture grade ply and not shop ply like many others use, and no bedliner. 500lb locking/non-locking slides for the drawer with mitre folded drawers for a cleaner look.

If I can help, reach out.

Mike

Hi Mike

Thank you so much for your advice. This is exactly the advice I was looking for.

I have one more question. I see on Amazon that there are closed cell foam pad that already have adhesive on one side. Would you by these or just use the 3m spray on both sides? Also would you go with a 1/8 or 1/4 thick pad?

Thanks
 
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Hi Mike

Thank you so much for your advice. This is exactly the advice I was looking for.

I have one more question. I see on Amazon that there are closed cell foam pad that already have adhesive on one side. Would you by these or just use the 3m spray on both sides?

Thanks

The pre-applied adhesive should be fine for sticking to the aluminum. Just make sure you clean the aluminum with acetone or alcohol prior to applying it. I would apply the 3m to the foam and carpet, flip it upside down and put some weight on it for an hour or so.

Mike
 
The pre-applied adhesive should be fine for sticking to the aluminum. Just make sure you clean the aluminum with acetone or alcohol prior to applying it. I would apply the 3m to the foam and carpet, flip it upside down and put some weight on it for an hour or so.

Mike

Much appreciated Mike. I have another question. So I will put the closed cell foam on the aluminum, then spray the 3m on top of that and apply the carpet. The top aluminum sheet is 1/8 thick and 40x36. So I will cut the carpet by 41-1/2 x 37-1/2. I plan on wrapping the extra 1-1/2 carpet underneath the aluminum sheet. So for carpet to aluminum would you use the 3M spray or a double sided tape?

Thanks

And if I need any fabrication work done I’ll definitely call you first!
 
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Much appreciated Mike. I have another question. So I will put the closed cell foam on the aluminum, then spray the 3m on top of that and apply the carpet. The top aluminum sheet is 1/8 thick and 40x36. So I will cut the carpet by 41-1/2 x 37-1/2. I plan on wrapping the extra 1-1/2 carpet underneath the aluminum sheet. So for carpet to aluminum would you use the 3M spray or a double sided tape?

Thanks

And if I need any fabrication work done I’ll definitely call you first!

Double sided tape or VBE tape will stick great to aluminum, but not so much to carpet. I would look into a outdoor carpet adhesive or marine adhesive since they bond to both porous and non-porous materials.

Also, if you're wanting a solid base plate to build on. I have several prototype models that I'll let go on the cheap to help me free up space.

Mike
 
3m spray adhesive is fantastic. easy to clean up as well. i forget which one i have. But i used it exclusively to re do the interior on my 66 VW. let it tack up first. do not skip this.
 
Double sided tape or VBE tape will stick great to aluminum, but not so much to carpet. I would look into a outdoor carpet adhesive or marine adhesive since they bond to both porous and non-porous materials.

Also, if you're wanting a solid base plate to build on. I have several prototype models that I'll let go on the cheap to help me free up space.

Mike

Thanks Mike. I appreciate the offer but I’m already have the pieces I need except the liner between the carpet and the aluminum and the adhesive.
 
Thanks Mike. I appreciate the offer but I’m already have the pieces I need except the liner between the carpet and the aluminum and the adhesive.

Hey Lexington...just curious as to why you want padding in the drawer? Vibration/noise?
I have a couple drawers I built but did not use aluminum, just wood. I have a thin piece of carpet in the drawer and I have no issues. But I am wondering if you want it since the base is aluminum. Inquiring minds...:-)
 
Hey Lexington...just curious as to why you want padding in the drawer? Vibration/noise?
I have a couple drawers I built but did not use aluminum, just wood. I have a thin piece of carpet in the drawer and I have no issues. But I am wondering if you want it since the base is aluminum. Inquiring minds...:-)

I don’t want padding in the drawers. I want to put padding on the top which will be aluminum and not wood. I travel frequently with my job and I’m always tossing my suitcase in the back. I think a little padding will help reduce the wear and tear on both the metal and my bag but also as you said to cut down on sound and vibration plus provide a little thermal protection if I ever decide to sleep in the back.

However I do plan on putting plain auto carpet inside the drawers. Then I can use 2” Velcro hook strips to secure things down if needed.

Another reason I’m using aluminum over wood on the top and bottom is to give it a low profile as much as possible. As I said, I travel just about every week with my job. So I don’t want to constantly be having to lift my bag up high. I’ll be hitting 60 in the near future. Why put more stress on your body if you don’t have too.
 
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Ahhh...ok, I just read that wrong. That makes sense and I get it! LOL
I really enjoy having drawers back there. I also added a shelf in the cargo area.

Good luck with the build.
 

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