Advice for replacement speakers/Sub in TRDP

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MedicLt

New member
Hey all,
My truck is floating ever-so-closely everyday,, should be 2weeks till delivery.
I'm selling my FX to a friend so I'm not going to be able to scavenge my system out of it.
In my fx, I replaced the speakers with Hertz powered with a JL amp and a clean sweep and installed a 10" JL sub powered on its own. I kinda thought of the same thing, but are there depth issues & space issues for speakers?

Also, those of you who have, did you put the sub in the rear hatch? Does it vibrate the license plate awful?

I think I will dynamat all 5 hatches too,,

Any thoughts on all this?

Thanks for any help.
 
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MedicLt said:
Hey all,
My truck is floating ever-so-closely everyday,, should be 2weeks till delivery.
I'm selling my FX to a friend so I'm not going to be able to scavenge my system out of it.
In my fx, I replaced the speakers with Hertz powered with a JL amp and a clean sweep and installed a 10" JL sub powered on its own. I kinda thought of the same thing, but are there depth issues & space issues for speakers?

Also, those of you who have, did you put the sub in the rear hatch? Does it vibrate the license plate awful?

I think I will dynamat all 5 hatches too,,

Any thoughts on all this?

Thanks for any help.
Click to expand...

Lots of people do things lots of ways. I personally run a 10" in a sealed box in the back. It is a shallow mount that fits even with my 3rd row up. I prefer not to have my sub stuffed where it doesn't fit. Plus I don't mind having 2x 6.5s in the rear hatch. Lots of people have upgraded the fronts to 3.5s from the 2.5s that come stock without issues. The doors are 6x9 in the front doors and 6.5s in the middle. Pick the speakers you love and if you don't mind doing custom you can do composites in there. I stayed with the 3 way in those configurations and I am happy. I am not an audiophile but I like good clean sound with depth. I run an inline Alpine amp for the front and a sub amp for my sub. JL makes good products, but I'm happy with my alplines.
 
bimrunner said:
Lots of people do things lots of ways. I personally run a 10" in a sealed box in the back. It is a shallow mount that fits even with my 3rd row up. I prefer not to have my sub stuffed where it doesn't fit. Plus I don't mind having 2x 6.5s in the rear hatch. Lots of people have upgraded the fronts to 3.5s from the 2.5s that come stock without issues. The doors are 6x9 in the front doors and 6.5s in the middle. Pick the speakers you love and if you don't mind doing custom you can do composites in there. I stayed with the 3 way in those configurations and I am happy. I am not an audiophile but I like good clean sound with depth. I run an inline Alpine amp for the front and a sub amp for my sub. JL makes good products, but I'm happy with my alplines.
Click to expand...

All this while retaining the OEM head unit?
 
bimrunner said:
Lots of people do things lots of ways. I personally run a 10" in a sealed box in the back. It is a shallow mount that fits even with my 3rd row up. I prefer not to have my sub stuffed where it doesn't fit. Plus I don't mind having 2x 6.5s in the rear hatch. Lots of people have upgraded the fronts to 3.5s from the 2.5s that come stock without issues. The doors are 6x9 in the front doors and 6.5s in the middle. Pick the speakers you love and if you don't mind doing custom you can do composites in there. I stayed with the 3 way in those configurations and I am happy. I am not an audiophile but I like good clean sound with depth. I run an inline Alpine amp for the front and a sub amp for my sub. JL makes good products, but I'm happy with my alplines.
Click to expand...

Oh,awesome Bim. Do you have any pics of that enclosure? That 8000NEX unit is sexy as hell.
 
chudiddy said:
All this while retaining the OEM head unit?
Click to expand...

I installed a Kenwood 5 channel amp, replaced the door and tailgate speakers with 3 way JBL's, and added a 12" sealed JL sub (not shallow) with the stock head unit, and it works & sounds great. I used this http://www.amazon.com/AudioControl-LC6i/dp/B002T4XR78/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1424230346&sr=8-1&keywords=lc6i line-out converter, which is pretty important. The downside is lots of wires to run. Eventually I'll replace the HU, but not before I get a lift and tires.
 
4Rager said:
I installed a Kenwood 5 channel amp, replaced the door and tailgate speakers with 3 way JBL's, and added a 12" sealed JL sub (not shallow) with the stock head unit, and it works & sounds great. I used this http://www.amazon.com/AudioControl-LC6i/dp/B002T4XR78/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1424230346&sr=8-1&keywords=lc6i line-out converter, which is pretty important. The downside is lots of wires to run. Eventually I'll replace the HU, but not before I get a lift and tires.
Click to expand...

Is that LC6i a similar unit to a cleansweep?
 
MedicLt said:
Is that LC6i a similar unit to a cleansweep?
Click to expand...

I'm not sure what a cleansweep is, but there's a couple ways you can wire it up. However in the case of the non-JBL systems, the amplifier is built in to the head unit, so you basically are intercepting the signal that would be going to the speaker and re-routing it to the LC6i. The LC6i converts the speaker level input into an RCA pre-out, which you then connect to your amp. The bonus of a powered line-out converter like the LC6i are all the additional features to tune the signal before it goes to your amp. I can tell you right now if I only had the gain adjustments on my amp, the system wouldn't sound nearly as balanced. If you replace the head unit, you won't need a LOC, since the HU will already have RCA's to connect directly to your amp and get a clean signal. DISCLAIMER: I am by no means in expert on sound processors and other audiophile equipment, but upon doing my research the above worked for my budget and what I wanted out of it (louder, cleaner sound, more bass, ~$1,000 & keep stock HU).
 
bimrunner said:
I replaced the HU as well but it can be done with the stock HU. I replaced it with a Pioneer 8000NEX.
Click to expand...

Hey Bim,

I noticed on the interweb that some folks experienced some loss of access to factory setting s and whatnot after installing that 8000 NEX unit.

Did you have any such phenomenon?
 
I just finished replacing all of the factory speakers in my TRDPro last weekend, while also adding a sub.

Dash: Polk 351
Front: Polk MM691
Back: Polk MM651
Hatch: Polk MM651
Sub: JL Audio 12" (forgot the model, it's old)
Amp: Alpine PDX-5
LOC: AudioControl LC7i


Putting 3.5"s in the dash is a little tight but easily doable. None of the other speaker locations have any issues with depth/fit. I used Metra wiring harnesses and speaker adapters so I didnt have to cut or trim any factory wires or plastic (aside from the dash stuff).

I kept the stock head unit for now because I couldn't find an acceptable dash kit to match the TRDP interior. Because of that I had to use a LOC like 4rager mentioned. I went with the LC7i instead of the LC6i to prevent the stock HU bass roll-off, but I'm not sure how necessary that really is.

I can do a full write-up with pictures if anyone is interested... a lot of it has been covered in other threads though.
 
MedicLt said:
Hey Bim,

I noticed on the interweb that some folks experienced some loss of access to factory setting s and whatnot after installing that 8000 NEX unit.

Did you have any such phenomenon?
Click to expand...

I'm not missing any factory settings. All steering wheel buttons work with the 8000nex with the correct adaptor except the voice control button, but I never used it. Is there some other factory setting you mean?
 
BustedPretext said:
I just finished replacing all of the factory speakers in my TRDPro last weekend, while also adding a sub.

Dash: Polk 351
Front: Polk MM691
Back: Polk MM651
Hatch: Polk MM651
Sub: JL Audio 12" (forgot the model, it's old)
Amp: Alpine PDX-5
LOC: AudioControl LC7i


Putting 3.5"s in the dash is a little tight but easily doable. None of the other speaker locations have any issues with depth/fit. I used Metra wiring harnesses and speaker adapters so I didnt have to cut or trim any factory wires or plastic (aside from the dash stuff).

I kept the stock head unit for now because I couldn't find an acceptable dash kit to match the TRDP interior. Because of that I had to use a LOC like 4rager mentioned. I went with the LC7i instead of the LC6i to prevent the stock HU bass roll-off, but I'm not sure how necessary that really is.

I can do a full write-up with pictures if anyone is interested... a lot of it has been covered in other threads though.
Click to expand...


Oh schnap,
That's got to sound good! So, what are your thoughts, should I do the cleansweep, or go your route with the LC7i?
 
I had the same brand/model speakers in my previous vehicle and it sounded fantastic, so I expect similar results now... I just haven't had a chance to play with all of it yet.

I did notice some plastic vs metal rattling even at a medium volume, so I'll be adding some RAAMat and Ensolite to alleviate that as much as possible.

I haven't had any personal experience with the CleanSweep, so I can't give absolute advice for or against it. It looks to have a few more features, but it's also nearly twice the price. The LC7i does everything that I wanted, and it has separate outputs for the sub. So far I've been very happy with it.
 
does anyone know the best place to mount a LC7i and by chance the color codes for the wiring on a 2014 SR5 4Runner? I am needing to get my system installed badly.. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks
 
MedicLt said:
"...Also, those of you who have, did you put the sub in the rear hatch?... Does it vibrate the license plate awful?... Any thoughts on all this?..."
Click to expand...

Hi MedicLt,

I'd sincerely advise you to do a little more research on the subject of subwoofers before you run out and buy any equipment. Just because you buy a speaker that has the word Sub-woofer on the box doesn't make it function as it should unless it's in a subwoofer's environment e.g. specific inner volume of air (Vas) in cuft, enclosure rigidity (Bracing), phase alignment...etc! If you install the very best subwoofer in an environment that is structurally unstable as referenced by your first question: "Does it vibrate the license plate awful?" then you've just wasted good money. A true sub is to be specifically matched to a properly sized box, so it's a combination of box/driver; not just a speaker on any baffle!

The speakers in the tailgate are designed to operate in the mid-bass range; some 200hz and up. They may be able to reproduce some signals below that, but not at any amplitude that would be audible enough to be heard because those drivers lack the physical travel capability (X-max/X-Mech) that they would need to reproduce, say... 40hz at an audible level! Mounted in the tailgate you'll never witness the true SUB-WOOFER experience because the driver needs a properly built enclosure to exhibit the parameter specific behavior that it was built for. Nor will it reach the depth (in Hz/cps) that true subs are known for! Here's a thread that may help you understand what a true sub is and how they work: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/174196-got-bass.html Hope you will find some of this post helpful,

Best to you!
 
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