after changing a injector 94,3.0, won't start

[4fishrunner]

after getting a code 14 i changed coil and ignitor, acts like it will, but won't. have changed and adjusted tps, could that have gone out of wack when i took off plentium? spark at new plugs new dist cap. rotor, wires, what else is there? don't forget new fuel filter.

 

[Bad_Vision]

are you getting spark?
if you are did you try resetting the ECU?

 

[4fishrunner]

spark at plug. fuel at pressure duhicky , pulled fuse to reset, and neg.battery wire.

 

[Bad_Vision]

Code 12 is caused by loss of "G" or "NE" signal from distributor to ECU for at least 2 seconds after starter signal is received at ECU. Check distributor and ignition system components. Ensure starter signal exists at the ECU.

 

[77'911]

Change out your EFI relay(about $12 @ the dealer). Make sure you have spark and fuel(pressure: rest and running). Ethanol is doing a number on these trucks(ie burning out the systems).
regards

 

[SV_Dude]

I'm not sure what you have to take off to get to the injectors but did you double and triple check your vacuum lines to make sure that they're all connected properly?

 

[4fishrunner]

I have a code 14

 

[4fishrunner]

efi relay is also new, and would that throw a code 14? also fuel pressure at rest? just turn on key and pump will build pressure? How do you check starter signal from or to ecu? Believe me all vacum line are cool, unless un attached under air intake.

 

[77'911]

Check the connection at the ignitor. That code is for the ignitor. Now "rest pressure" is the base pressure which the regulator keeps the system at while not in use. This way you don't initially flood the truck when starting it. Many will have a regulator that is shot or faulty and not even know it. The truck could have:
1)hard starting or no start(foul plugs, wash down cyls, etc)
2)rough running or poor performance and poor mpg
3) burns pump out due to the fact the pump is running at full steam all the time
4)dies on the road , then re-starts
Well, you get the idea.
regards

 

[4fishrunner]

well I put some vacum on the regulator it is not holding vacum at all, indicating bad regulator?

 

[77'911]

Yes, you should get "some vacuum". You might keep a fuel pressure gauge on it over night. If the pressure the next morning is zero, the regulator is gone.

I'm away from my manual set, by toyota indicates the parameters for vacuum and psi for rest pressures in there. I'm going to say, it's probably had it's day. Thankfully, they are not too bad to replace and the part is only about $70.
regards

 

[4fishrunner]

on my way to parts store, Thanks, regulator did not hold vacum for 2 secs. thanks again. oh and on a different topic tps I just figured out the the stop scew is closest one to tb not the stop for accell on the outside should have known that putting a feeler gauge on a stop screw had to be hard to get at. Anyway now I know. Thanks again 77 911 and B V for your time.I'll let you know what happens.

 

[4fishrunner]

well that was not it. never had a truck do this. amazing! REALLY have to fix or sell as hurricane season is here and living in New Orleans you really need to be able to evacuate.I believe I have to start over everything is new from plugs to dist.cap rotor,wires, fuel pressure regulator, throttle position sensor, cold start sensor,fuel filter,coolant temp sensor.
it wants to start, almost starts, then chugs out.

 

[77'911]

Are you getting anything from the ignitor? Any spark at the plugs? Have you done a fuel pressure test?

 

[4fishrunner]

i am getting spark, the only test i have not done is fuel pressure. maybe fuel pump, but not getting codes . will try to do fuel pressure check today and maybe ecu. really don't want to take spark plugs out for the 10th time to look at but i will.

 

[4fishrunner]

sprayed TB cleaner and truck ran rough but ran,

fuel running through system but not through injectors? is there a fuse or relay that operates injectors? I ask because it is hard to imagine all going out at once. when i got this truck it had been sitting for a year and had a bad head gasket, but it started and ran, now with gasket fixed and many new parts it won't start whatup? any more test to run?

 

[77'911]

No, I hear you on the plugs. The one at the firewall is a tight one to say the least. When the fuel system goes(pump pressure, regulator, etc), it give the trucks all sorts of issues but rarely sets off codes, per say. With the ethanol in the petrol now, these trucks were never set up to run on that stuff(dries out the diaphragm, o-rings, seals in the pumps) which is taking effect, along with age/miles. A pressure test should tell you immediately if the pump is suspect. Sorry to hear your going through such trouble with it.
regards

 

[4fishrunner]

air gap in distributor off could this be true?

after going thru everything and checking ohms and spark and checking on other sites like yotatech i realized that i never checked distributor. one air gap was perfect and the other 2 were way off, like greatest tolerence was .016 and they were greater than that by alot. could this be the problem that started with rough unstable idle and progressed to won't start. please say yes, threw a lot of parts at this truck. most are ok as the milage is high 179,000, book say replace distributor on v6 if not within tolerences.:toilet:

 

[4fishrunner]

truck started fixed by changing cold START plug wire running rough though

after changing an injector my 94 3.0 would not start, checked and rechecked everything, new most everything, finally found post on Yota Tech that talked about my exact problem of everything checking out, spark, ohms, fuel ect ect. and fixed by changing cold START plug wire. i changed wire and the truck started rough but running, noticed i had not put line from egr to egr modulator back on and put it back on and truck would not stay running. took it off and truck running rough. an unbelievable amount of hot exhaust blowing out of tube something wrong for sure. any suggestions